The seaside town of Nea Peramos is situated along the Athens-Corinth highway 36 kms west of Athens and across from the island of Salamina. It’s a heavenly little place,  especially along the seafront. Today, I’m sharing many of my own photos from my walks there, as well as some info about the town and its history.

The sea was like a sheet of glass the day I took these photos, and the atmosphere clear, which offered a good view of the Monastery of Panayia Faneromeni across the water on the island of Salamis (or Salamina).

In case you’re wondering if the infamous Battle of Salamis relates to this place, the answer is yes; to the left, the bay towards Athens and Pireas leads to an even more narrow strip of sea where the Battle of Salamis took place in 480 B.C. This is where the small and flexible vessels of the Greek fleet trapped the massive Persian ships of Xerxes. The vain Persian king was so sure he was going to defeat the Greeks that he ventured up the mountain Egaleo and set up his throne there to watch his fleet devour the Greek one – but was destined to watch his own ships burn and go under. As I sit at the seafront, I often imagine the Persians sailing by my part of the world on their way to their fateful demise, reminding myself that too much arrogance makes one susceptible to weakness and failure.

I like to start my walk around the town from the artillery camp (pyrovoliko). This is where the beach and the umbrellas of the previous photos are situated. Walking along the seaside towards the marina I always look forward to getting to my favourite stretch –  this small pier with these quaint fishing boats on the beach and in the water. A tiled walkway starts here, which leads to the open-aired ‘theatraki’ (little theatre) where small events take place in the summer time (all big ones take place at the heart of the marina a little further down).

Past the theatraki, the road leads to the square of St George Church. Carrying on the coastal walkway, we arrive at a little arcade and a line of cafes and traditional tavernas.

At the end of the tavernas you arrive at a decorative beached boat and the ‘home’ of a multitude of ducks and geese. These are a delightful recent addition to the seafront’s charm that visitors, and especially the children, love to watch.

In the devastating and deadly flash flood of November 2017 a part of the marina was claimed by dirt that came with the water from the Gerania mountains. It created a beach where the water and boats used to be – a devastating sight. Thankfully, all the restorative works were completed early in 2018 and the marina is now back to its normal, stunning, and fully functional state. On one side of it you will find all styles of yachts and pleasure boats, while on the other one there is a multitude of fishing boats.

At the end of the marina, there is another small beach with a couple more restaurants and a pier with even more fishing boats moored on it.

If you carry on walking down the beach from here, you will end up in a tiny shipyard and, ultimately, at the gate of the other military camp of the town – this one being one that trains paratroopers and navy seals. Oftentimes, all year round and in all sorts of weather, the men jump from airplanes in their parachutes, or take part in drills in the sea that involve helicopters and inflatable boats.

The latter I often get to watch during the summer from the beach while I swim and sunbathe, as strange as this sounds!

The day I took these photos it was my birthday, and the loveliest thing happened as I reached the pier  at the far end of the marina. A fisherman saw me taking photos and called me over. Then, he handed me a seahorse as a gift! Because it was a surprise from a stranger, it made for the best birthday present 🙂 The seahorse was dried up in the sunshine and I kept it as a lucky charm. You can see the fisherman in the above photos. He was mending his nets as two seals had broken them earlier that morning.

In the marina, the fishermen have stands where people can buy fresh fish. That said, it is also possible to buy fish directly from the boats. Fresh fish of the day, directly from the man who caught it in a matter of hours earlier. Doesn’t get better than this!

From the marina, I often sit on one of the benches to enjoy the view of the Monastery of Agia Faneromeni in Salamina across the water. As you can see in the photo on the right above, there is a ferry crossing (in the area of Perama) and you can get to Salamina in a matter of a few minutes. In August, during the festival of the monastery, oftentimes small passenger vessels are commissioned to carry people across for a visit straight from the marina and exactly from this spot that you can see above where the benches are.

This is also the ‘venue’ where many cultural events are held throughout the year. Theater shows, charity events, folklore dances, military band concerts etc, as well as the annual Lent Monday festivities, and the sardine festival in late August.

The town of Nea Peramos was formed and first inhabited by refugees from Peramos in Asia Minor in the 1920s (Nea Peramos means “New Peramos”). Their culture and history hold strong still; old songs and dances of Asia Minor are often performed in schools and in public events throughout the year.

The town is also known as Megalo Pefko (big pine tree). The name survives from the time when Greece was under Turkish rule (1400s-1800s). A large pine tree stood where the town is today. Travelers from Megara to Athens would walk past it to get to the city. Fearing the Kleftes (armed thieves who lived in the wild and robbed whoever used the roads) the locals in the area used the pine tree as a meeting point so they can travel to the city in large numbers for their protection.

Nea Peramos offers a multitude of delights to the visitor. Families and quiet couples, as well as whole coachfuls of schoolchildren arrive here for a day out all year round. In the summer time, Saturday nights on the marina feel like a touristy Greek island, the tavernas and cafes packed.

On sunny Sundays and big holidays all year round the establishments are often full to the last table and chair.

HOW TO GET TO NEA PERAMOS

To visit by road from Athens, take the Athinon (Kavalas) highway and follow signs to Aspropyrgos and Corinth.  Just before the toll booths at Elefsina there is an exit to Nea Peramos. Take this exit to avoid the toll cost and to take a picturesque coastal route to the town. The windy coastal road offers generous views to the bay and Salamina. It runs past Loutropyrgos, then Neraki with its clam farms and seafood stands, and ultimately leads to the artillery camp in Nea Peramos.

When you see its stony wall on your left hand side, expect to see a ‘My Market’ store on the other side of the road. Turn off the road on the first or second turn on your left and you’ll find ample parking on the seafront. From here,  a walk to the tavernas and the marina will take 5-10 minutes depending on your pace. If you prefer not to walk, then carry on the road after ‘My Market’ and keep watching your left. You will pass the church of St George and after a couple of blocks you will arrive at a small square. Turn left into the square. Where the road ends, turn left, then right, which will lead you to the marina’s ample parking area.

To ask for directions, the Greek word for the marina is ‘limani’.

If you prefer to arrive at Nea Peramos by train, you can take the suburban railway (Proastiakos) from Athens airport, the port of Pireas, and the metro stations of Larissa, Plakentias, and Neratziotissa. Note: The most convenient are the Pireas and Larissa stations as they are on a direct line to Nea Peramos. The end of the line is KIATO (its way after Corinth) so look out for the line PIREAS-KIATO when you look up timetables for Proastiakos.

There are no taxis at the station in Nea Peramos, which is out of town, and I wouldn’t recommend a walk to it for a number of reasons. There are multiple routes and you could lose your way – the roads are also deserted in places and best avoided.

Instead, I advise you to call the local taxi company in advance (an hour earlier or even half hour will do) so they wait for you at the station when you arrive. Just let them know what time you’re arriving – or if you’re already on the train they will know when it will arrive. 

From the church of St George (as mentioned and pictured earlier in this post) you can take a taxi back to the station at the end of your visit to the town.

Phone the taxi company to arrange for a pickup here:

Landline: +30 22960 44557

What’s up or mobile number: +30 6978 167500

The Greek word for ‘marina’ is ‘limani’. For ‘train’, it is ‘treno’.

Another way to reach Nea Peramos is by bus. The buses depart from Thissio in Athens and run frequently throughout the day. You’ll find them beside the Metro station of the same name. Here’s the site for bus times and contacts: http://ktelattikis.gr/en/

If you’re driving to Nea Peramos, I recommend you venture a little further too. Drive down the old highway towards Megara and visit Pahi too (takes about 15 minutes to drive there from Nea Peramos). It is a tiny village with a picturesque harbor where you can sit at a fish taverna or a cafe. Pahi is crowned by a hill that has a chapel on the top and offers spectacular views.

In the summer, I also recommend you sample the cosmopolitan beaches of Kineta (pebbly) or Psatha (sandy). Both are on toll-free roads if you use the highway that runs past the town of Nea Peramos. Kineta is closer, about 15-20 minutes by car from Nea Peramos. Psatha would be about 30-35 minutes. For any questions, or more detailed directions, just use my contact page anytime.

IMPORTANT: When searching for Nea Peramos online, make sure to specify “Nea Peramos, Attica”. Some of the refugees from Asia Minor arrived at Kavala in the north of Greece as well, creating a second Nea Peramos there!

WHERE TO EAT

For a meal in town I recommend Ef Kouzin, Kaldera, Psistiri, and Argo. I am listing them in order of the location as one walks from the church towards the marina.

All the tavernas have tables outside by the water where you can sit under umbrellas.

Just to clarify, I don’t know the owners or take commissions from any of the establishments – but I love the friendly service and the food in all of them. I recommend the kolokithokeftedes (courgette patties), the chicken souvlaki and the bifteki especially. 

‘Psistiri’ is a great choice for grilled meat.

‘Argo’ is where I make a beeline for when in the mood for pizza. They make them fresh and they are delicious. Make sure to order a starter of their keftedes too! You’ll spot ‘Argo’ easily. It’s by the decorative boat on the beach and its seating area is laid out under and around a large tree.

‘Ef Kouzin’ offers a complimentary tsipouro shot as a welcome and a yummy dip for your bread.

For a coffee, I recommend ‘Excite’ and ‘Wave’. Both are on the seafront side by side near the church of St George.

Last, in case you visit in the summer and wish to swim, there is a beach in town but personally I no longer swim in town or in any of the other beaches in the outskirts. Since the flood of 2017, a lot of mountain dirt wound up in the sea and so the beaches are nowhere near as clean as they used to be.

If I want to have a quick swim I always go to Neraki. The sea here is constantly refreshed by underwater fresh water springs. Neraki is a small town just before Nea Peramos as you drive from Athens on the Old Athens-Corinth highway. You will locate the beach easily as on the road there  are many stalls where the local mussel farmers sell mussels and many kinds of shellfish too. The beach is right where the stalls are, on a lower ground. Find one of the many stairs that take you down to sea level, and voila! You’ll be in a small but perfect beach paradise instantly. It even offers pine trees for shade. You can combine your visit with a lunch on the fish taverna there that has tables by the water.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little presentation, and that you will get to visit Nea Peramos during your next visit to Athens. You will be glad you did!

What did you think of this article? Have you ever been to Nea Peramos? What did you most enjoy there? Comment and  let me know! I’d love to hear from you.

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