Travels and weekend breaks

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Beautiful nature at Litochoro Pierrias and a monastery on Mt Olympus

The monastery of St Dionysios of Olympus is situated in the perfecture of Pierria, 3 km from the town of Lithochoro.

I had the pleasure to visit the monastery twice in the recent months (as well as the nearby town of Litochoro, which I’m also sharing about today).

I first visited last December when I traveled to Edessa and Pozar baths (I will be sharing about those amazing places soon, by the way!) and my second visit was during my trip to Salonica (Thessaloniki) last January.

The monastery was very quiet, and I only got to see one monk in the whole place! I later discovered that there is a restricted area where the monks live and work, which is not accessible to visitors. So, I guess they were all busy at the time! Apparently, they have many talents. They create icons, woodcraft, incense, candles and also pass the time gardening, binding books, tending to bees and even making cheese!

It is no surprise, therefore, that their gift shop, situated near the entrance, is one of the most interesting I have ever seen in a monastery, offering a wealth of different kinds of merchandise, including incense in various heavenly aromas, dried herbs, and, yes, cheeses too, and other delicatessen items. I came out carring bags of various lovely things, and I only wish they had an e-shop so I can restock 🙂

There were various buildings to admire as we walked around, with the operational church being by far the most prominent structure. The decoration inside, and the large icons of Jesus and the Virgin Mary before the templon were impressive.

In a small chapel inside the church on the right side, there is also a big icon of St Dionysios.

The monastery had beautiful greenery and pots with vibrant flowers, making it a pleasure to photograph. We ambled here and there, listening to birdsong, being surrounded by forestland. The only people were those in our coach group. Both times, the experience was the same, and just as enchanting.

Going up some steps, we visited the museum that is housed in a small building, manned by one monk, who sat near the entrance at a desk, screens before him, surveilling all the different spaces via cameras. It was an odd sight, and quite a striking contrast, to see a monk handling the high technology of today, but that was soon forgotten, once I ventured further inside where I got to marvel at the religious artifacts and the relics on display.

Truly, never before, had I seen so many housed in one place.

The artifacts were intricate, so beautiful and impressive, and the holy relics were more than I could imagine I would ever see – all belonging to various saints and even apostles.

It was forbidden to take photographs in there but you can see some of the artifacts on this page of the monastery’s website.

The monastery was founded in 1950 after the destruction of the original monastery by the Germans in 1943 at a different location, in the gorge of Enipeas river. The ruins still stand today. St Dionysios had built the original fortified monastery in 1542.

During his life, the saint lived in many different caves on Mt Olympus. His holy relic lies today in a grave inside one of those caves, and there is also a spring with holy water. According to the monastery, to this date, the miracles the saint performs continue as he answers the prayers of the faithful…

GO HERE to see all my photos from the monastery.

Litochoro was stunning… Beauty everywhere…

Hard to believe that a town so near Mt Olympus is also near the sea!

I never got to see its coast, but during my visits there I had a good wander around and encountered the beauty of nature in all its glory. Majestic snowcapped mountain peaks, tall forest trees, a river, and even a large reservoir awaited me there, all gleaming under the glorious sunlight.

At the main car park where our coach left us, there is a paved path that leads to lower ground.

It led us to Enipeas river, after just a couple minutes’ walk. At its bank, visitors can enjoy food and drink at two quaint cafes as well as a restaurant run by a coop of the local women of the town.

It was a beautiful place to walk around in and enjoy the beauty of nature.

But that wasn’t all. We also found a stunning park next to the town’s maritime museum, just a stone’s throw away from the car park.

It had a large body of water that made it really special. Apparently, this vast reservoir is not for swimming, hence it’s fenced all around. The water is used for irrigation purposes.

Edged by forest trees, the park was the perfect place to sit on a bench after a slap up meal, listen to the chirping birds and gaze at Mt Olympus. Its peaks were snowcapped, a marvel to behold.

I felt really envious of the locals. City folk may feel blessed enough if they can sit at a park in their town with a fountain nearby, gazing at a few trees. The people of Litochoro have a large reservoir at the center of this massive green space, and the majestic Mt Olympus, no less, to rest their eyes upon. Truly fortunate folk!

Wow, right?

As I stated earlier, I visited Litochoro twice in the recent months. I plan to return to Macedonia again and again (many places I’ve always wanted to see over there!) and as Litochoro offers a well-timed stopover for lunch on the way back to Athens I look forward to stopping by there again, half a chance I get.

If you happen to be in the area, do not miss the chance to discover it too. The people are hospitable, and the food on offer at the restaurants makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

We went to the restaurant ‘Hairi’ on the roundabout the first time (you’ll see it all decorated for the holidays in the photographs). It’s at the end of the uphill road that you get to if you turn right from the car park. A short walk away of less than 5 minutes. Well, it depends on how hungry you are, I guess, LOL

The second time, we went to the restaurant ‘Ta Mezedakia’ that is situated right at the edge of the car park. It’s very popular, so if you want to go there, don’t go wandering first and leave it for later. As we sat at its tiny balcony, there were people standing on the other side of the railing on the street, waiting for us to finish so they could come sit. There is a large seating area inside and it was all packed!

I combined both visits into one set of photographs, and I included ones of both the restaurant buildings. This way you can go straight to them if you’re ever there. Either of them will satisfy you if you have a serious case of the munchies like we did LOL

GO HERE to see all my photos from Litochoro.

 

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Hungry pelicans and shy flamingos in Lake Kerkini, Serres

I visited Kerkini Lake during my stay in Salonica last month.

This beautiful lake with the sparkling still waters is artificial – made in 1932 when a dam was constructed on Strymon River.

Situated in the prefecture of Serres, the lake is near the famous Fort Roupel, and the border to Bulgaria.

It is 17km long, 5km wide, and quite shallow – about 35m deep.

The lake is under the protection of Natura 2000. This beautiful natural habitat is the home of wolves, wild boars, wild cats, jackals, ferrets, and other feral creatures. The lake is graced by many Great White Pelicans (Pelecanus Onocrotalus), Dalmatian Pelicans (Pelecanus Crispus) and a few thousand flamingos too!

Water buffaloes are farmed in the area, making Kerkini a famous location for sampling high quality buffalo meat products.

We got the first glimpse of the lake from the coach about 1 hour after leaving Salonica. Once we drove past the dam, we began to travel along a country road beside the lake to get to the boats our guide had booked for us beforehand.

As we cruised beside the lake, our guide informed us about the water buffaloes being farmed there. A few moments later, a lady on the coach suddenly exclaimed: ‘There they are! I can see them!’ which was followed quickly by the guide saying, as tactfully as she could, ‘Erm… no, actually, these are cows!’

The whole coach erupted in loud guffaws, which set us off perfectly on this wonderful fun adventure on the lake in the company of magnificent winged creatures…

They look serene enough but try and feed them…

We had a lot of fun on the boat as the captain had brought a bag of fish to throw to the pelicans. The ploy worked. They rushed towards the boat and followed us throughout our ride. Two of the passengers were a little boy and a little girl, and they had a go throwing the fish to the pelicans too. Their squeals of joy and their excited faces only enhanced the fun experience.

Natually, the pelicans were fighting for every fish, watching intently, it seemed, as each fish drew an invisible arc in the air before landing in their midst. Most of the time, they would scrap amongst them. Sometimes, they nipped at each other or even chased the pelican that got the fish into their mouth.

I have posted a couple videos on Facebook, all of them short, to share with you the fun we had feeding the pelicans, but most of all to show you their smooth gliding, and the even more mesmerising smooth landings they performed on the water. True poetry in motion!

Do take a look: Video1 Video2 Video3

It was all very entertaining, and the pelicans were evidently very accustomed to the company of people. I was amazed by how daring they seemed to be, floating peacefully, so close to us. At some point, one of the pelicans was floating right behind the side of the boat where I sat – just a sheet of wood between us, and it hit me how amazing it was that I should be so close, gazing into the face of such a majestic winged creature. I perceived it as a great honor and these moments will forever hold a dear place in my heart.

I often see cormorans in my town of Nea Peramos in Attica, seeing that the Natura 2000 area of Vourkari (a marshland) is close to it. The cormorans that live there often fly over to town. I’ve seen them perched on top of the fishing boats in our marina many times, and they sometimes swim close to me in the sea in the summer. But I’d never seen a non-domesticated bird so close to me before. As I said, it was an exhilarating first experience for me.

I wish I could say the same for the flamingos, but no such luck…

According to the local boat captain, who was amazing and really informative, there were a few thousand flamingos in the lake, but they were very timid. Indeed, we tried several times to move closer to them to take a better look and every time they moved further away.

In the end, we gave up and just killed the engine to gaze longingly at them from a distance.

It was fun, mind you, watching them flee. They seemed to be running on water on their spindly legs, something that set the little kids squealing, and all the passengers, in general, marvelling at the sight.

More new experiences awaited us at the restaurant nearby…

The restaurant, Elodia, was decked in beautiful wood and stone and the whole setting with the big property around it made it feel like a ranch-type-of-place, which was enchanting. The property featured a body of water and an enclosure where they kept deer too.

In the above picture, please don’t get fooled! This is not a real water buffalo. Not a cow either haha 🙂

Still, there are living creatures in the water. I’ll get back to that in a minute…

I wanted first to report on the buffalo meat, which both my husband and I tried for the first time.

I had buffalo meatballs in tomato sauce with linguini pasta and Andy went for buffalo bifteki with rice and fries. And he was glad he chose that because he originally wanted a steak, but the waiter warned us buffalo meat is a little harder than pork or beef. Andy was glad he didn’t go for the steak as he found the bifteki a little too chewy for his liking as it was.

I found my meat soft enough, since it was cooked in tomato sauce, and even though I can appreciate it was tasty, I wasn’t too enamoured with it. It had too rich a taste for my liking, just like the deer meat I tried many years ago. In a way, I am glad, as if I’d loved it I’d have had a hard time finding it at the bucher’s in Nea Peramos 🙂

Apparently, buffalo meat is a lot richer in iron and protein than beef. It is also very healthy as it is low in calories and fat. So, if you haven’t tried it, it’s well worth a go.

Back to the creature dwelling in the water outside the restaurant…

It wasn’t just the pelicans, it seemed, that were accustomed to humans in Kerkini. As soon as we approached the water buffalo sculpture, we saw two heads bobbing in the water. One of the creatures rushed to come out and go behind the fence where a family had just arrived.

I didn’t even know the area of Kerkini had otters! It was a delightful surprise.

I left that place feeling absolutely chuffed and well connected to nature.

Our coffee stop in Serres offered one last surprise encounter…

On our way back to Salonica we made a little detour for a stop in the city of Serres for a coffee.

We were taken to a beautiful festive square that was decorated beautifully (it was the holiday season).

Andy and I found the last vacant table at a seemingly popular cafe on the square as it was brimming with locals.

We had a little time to kill before we had to get back on the coach so we walked around the large square taking in the decorations. Suddenly, to our surprise, we saw a squad of soldiers marching towards us in formation!

As it turned out, it was time to lower the Greek flag and to put it away for the night. A local military camp, it seemed, had taken it upon themselves to raise and lower the flag daily.

It was moving to stand near the squad and listen to the soldiers sing the national anthem.

I must say, I returned to Salonica that evening with a mind of beautiful images, along with some extra patriotic pride in my chest LOL! All the more exciting for me as the last bit wasn’t even remotely expected!

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The stunning monastery of Hosios Loukas and bacon pastry pinwheels

From the left: Virgin Mary church and Katholikon church

Hosios Loukas, a spectacular Byzantine monastery

It was a sunny autumn day when I discovered, much to my delight, this secret gem of Greece… Now, because of my strong faith, I have visited many monasteries in my life, but I had never heard of Hosios Loukas.

I consider it very fortuitous, therefore, that my coach journey to Arachova late last year included a stop at this monastery.

Built on the western slope of Mt Elikon with a valley teemed with olive trees stretching out before it, this 10th century A.D. Byzantine monastery is more than that. It is, rather, a fortified complex of not one but three churches, each one built at a different time in a different style.

The combination of all three provide visitors with an awe-inspiring, highly diverse visual experience.

‘Katholikon’ was a marvel to my eyes

The main church, ‘Katholikon’, is dedicated to Hosios Loukas. ‘Hosios’ (or the more phonetically accurate, ‘Ossios’) means ‘Devoted to God’ and it is a title that the Greek Orthodox Church has given over time to many devoted monks and nuns.

Hosios Loukas was a hermit called Loukas Stereiotis, and he lived in the area since 945 A.D. until his death in 953 A.D. He founded the monastery and was alive when the church of the Virgin Mary was built in the middle of the 10th century. The larger church of Katholikon was built later beside it, early 11th century.

His full-body relics are kept on display today inside the Katholikon. They were stolen by the Crusaders during the 13th century A.D. and kept in the Vatican for centuries before their repatriation.

When I entered the imposing Katholikon, my jaw literally dropped and I was overcome with awe. The exterior was imposing enough but nothing prepared me for the scale of things on the inside… for the stunning marble slabs, the intricate designs on everything I caressed with my eyes, especially the beautiful mosaics and the frescoes that are characteristic of the 10th-11th century A.D. because of the golden background.

Even the sunlight contributed that morning to make the scene one of astounding beauty, as it streamed in eagerly through the many elaborate windows.

On the left of the interior there is a portico, where people can pay their respects to the full-body relics of Hosios Loukas and then walk on a little further to enter the other, adjacent church…

 

More awe-inspiring beauty awaited me at the adjacent Virgin Mary church (Theotokos)

The masonry and brickwork of this older church was breathtaking. From what I found out later on line, it boasts a special style of masonry that combines stones with bricks to form decorative motifs. In time, it became the prototype for all the classical Byzantine churches of southern Greece.

I have very basic knowledge of Byzantine architecture, but I can tell you it was just as spectacular as Katholikon. It was amazing for me, actually, to see that mere stones and bricks can create such a stunning decoration. Truly, this church has all it takes to stand unabashed beside another that practically beams ‘dressed’ in polished marble.

There were many people inside Virgin Mary church, so I just followed the queues to explore it…

In one corner, people gathered up to write names on little notes of papers, leaving coins to the priests in return for blessings for their ailing loved ones or their departed from this world.

Another monk stood further away offering blessed chunks of bread to the visitors.

Outside, in the streaming sunshine, eating my piece of blessed bread, I closed my eyes for a while and inhaled the crisp Autumn air, feeling really blessed to be there as the birdsong reached my ears.

The main court was a pleasure to explore, and I went stepping up and down on different levels to photograph the two churches and the buildings of the monks’ cells from different angles against a cheerful azure sky…

Hosios Loukas had chosen to build the Katholikon on top of an existing church, that is still open to the public today. It is a stunning large crypt with groin vaults forming the roof, and it is dedicated to Agia Varvara (St Barbara).

Its entrance is around the back of the Katholikon building–not accessible from within the church. The tomb of Hosios Loukas is situated inside it.

Outside the monastery, nature beckons enticingly…

There is a large green space there, with grass and trees, and a couple shops that offer a wide variety of religious merchandise and local produce. And they also serve coffee, which visitors can enjoy sitting in this beautiful space that overlooks the monastery and the mountains on one side and the vast valley on the other.

The birdsong reached my ears busy and sweet as I took in the breathtaking views, and it was the perfect way to seal my memories of this awe-inspiring, blessed place, before it was time to go–much too early for my liking, but it couldn’t be helped as we were on a coach.

But, perhaps next time I’ll have more time to explore more spaces of this fortified Byzantine ‘little town’. According to the plan on display, there are old stables, an oil press, a museum, and other places of interest for the visitors.

My eagerness to see them serves as a wonderful motive for me to return.

Travel information: Hosios Loukas is in Boeotia (Viotia) north of Attica, about 170 kms from Athens along the motorway route Athens-Levadia-Delphi. It can be easily combined with other places of interest for a day out from Athens. It is situated in the area of Distomo, a part of Greece forever reminiscent of the harrowing atrocities against its locals carried out by the Nazis in WWII. Distomo is a beautiful village with places of archaeological interest and a Holocaust Museum. The bustling and quite cosmopolitan town of Arachova is 30 kms away from the monastery. You can see my travel report from Arachova here. Arachova is a highly recommended Greek destination. Some say it’s overrared, but others adore it and return there every winter for a quick break, so I guess you’ll have to decide for yourself! 😉

VISIT FACEBOOK TO SEE MORE PHOTOGRAPHS FROM HOSIOS LOUKAS!

  greek bacon pastry pinwheels easy

Easy and quick to make!

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The filling is cheese, bacon and red pepper. They make a treat that’s both colourful and highly delicious. So comforting during winter to have straight out of the oven. And the crunchiness is all the money…

Go on, impress your family and friends!

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Sightseeing in beautiful Thessaloniki and Greek lamb roast

Hello, All! Today, I am thrilled to share my travel report from my super-short stay in Thessaloniki (aka Salonica) earlier this month. I had only 1 full day to explore it and managed to admire most of its major sights and popular quarters.

Scroll down towards the end of this post to find out how I marinade lamb (or pork) for a Greek meat roast. I am sharing all my best tips on how to prepare this yummy meal including my family recipe for tzatziki. Enjoy it all, folks!

A stunning Greek city, so reminiscent of Rome…

I took this photograph of the magnificent ‘Kamara’ (Arch) on New Year’s Eve. It’s in the bustling city of Salonica, and it is one of many remnants from the Roman occupation of the city. The Kamara was constructed to honor the Roman Caesar Galerius (Galerius Valerius Maximianus) circa 300 A.C. to commemorate his successful expedition against the Persians. Galerius’s palace was situated near the Kamara and its ruins stand today on the other side of the busy avenue, amidst Navarinou Square.

Looking at this precious monument, it was hard for me to imagine that, a few decades ago, trams circulated in the city and used to pass right under the Kamara! I just couldn’t imagine this happening today. And I am pleased no accidents ever happened during that time to cause destruction to this magnificent structure. What a gem for the city it truly is today, creating such a delightful contrast to the contemporary urban landscape.

It is standing silently and with perfect dignity, despite its losses through the centuries, and it is practically obliging whomever approaches it, be it a tourist or a local, to slow their pace and let their eyes wander upon its beautiful, intricate sculpted marble slabs that depict the wars of Valerius against the Persians.

A stone’s throw away from the Kamara stands the magnificent Rotonda…

The Rotonda was built during the reign of Galerius in the 4th century A.C as a Roman temple. In the Byzantine era, it was a Christian church and beautiful frescoes were painted in it, some of which survive today. Later in time, the Rotonda also served as a mosque.

After the Minor Asia Catastrophe in the 1920s, when the Greeks fled their lands and arrived into Greece in droves, many of those who were brought into Salonica were placed in the Rotonda temporarily until they could be put into basic homes. It was an awe-inspiring experience for me to stand in this place of vast and such diverse history, and considered myself very lucky to visit it at a time when there was no one else around but my husband, Andy, and I.

The Rotonda is cylindrical in shape and so reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome, except the Oculus (the ‘eye’ on the top, at the center) is not open in the Rotonda.

The White Tower and the seafront were that something else…

I thought I was impressed enough visiting Roman ruins and Byzantine churches, admiring old mosques and the impressive arched openings of the city’s famous indoor markets, and then we wound up on the seafront, where the White Tower stood, a beauty to behold, and our excitement hit the roof. I always wanted to visit the White Tower, and, let me tell you – it was well worth the wait.

The ascend is comfortable, with wide corridors and steps, and on every level there are displays that offer old pictures and information where the holding cells used to be, at the time of the Ottoman Occupation of the city. The Ottomans built the tower in the 16th century and were brutal rulers. After they massacred the rebellious Gennissaries inside the tower, the latter acquired a new name… It was referred to for some time after that as the Red Tower or the Tower of Blood.

Today, the displays on each level explore a different facet of the history of the White Tower and Salonica, too. The mentions to the harrowing Nazi occupation era linger on my mind still. During WWII, the Nazis rounded up Salonica’s large Jewish community and put those poor souls on trains to the butcher camps of Europe we have all heard about… Only a few returned to Salonica to tell the tale. Mentions to contemporary times were included on the displays in the White Tower, including ones to Greek movies and songs that are relevant to the city. The view from the top of the tower was too beautiful for words, on all sides…

By far, the best was the sea view, of course, and we marveled at the wide bay that stretched as far as the eye could see. A couple of pleasure boats were docked down below, and others were cruising up and down along the bay, offering even food on board as they gave the tourists a fun ride in the sea air. The most delightful were the pirate ships.

A Captain Jack Sparrow character stood on the dock at the entrance of one ship luring the little ones in, who tugged at their parents’ sleeves from afar, rushing to get a ride. Clever marketing, I say, and it definitely works! But, we didn’t get a boat ride. Our time was limited and we wanted to visit several popular quarters of the city before nightfall. So we went for a walk along the seafront instead, where we made sure to tick off all the famous landmarks on our list of things to see.

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The famous ‘Umbrellas’ didn’t disappoint. Everyone wanted to take the same photo, it seems (unlike this pretty girl in this photo, but then she had loads taken, including THE pose). What’s THE pose, I hear you ask? Well, you’re supposed to grab one of the umbrellas by the handle and have your photo taken with one foot mid-air, knee bent, as if you’re being lifted off the ground. We stood nearby for a while and everyone seemed to know what to do. It made us chuckle.

We also loved the fountains (you can see part of these on the right of this photo). It certainly made the little ones giggle. Standing on that platform you never know where the water will spurt from next. I must return in the summer to try that on a scorching hot day, LOL The famous sculpture of Alexander the Great, King of the ancient Greek kingdom of Macedonia, on horseback was beautiful, though our guide ruined it a little for us, by telling us a secret…

There is a mistake in the depiction of this great king and general. His horse is depicted with both its front hooves up in the air, which signifies the rider died in battle, but this wasn’t the case with Alexander. Since he died from disease, one irrelevant to a battle wound even (that would call for one hoof off the ground, BTW), the horse’s front legs would have to both be on the ground.

Still, the statue looks beautiful, and more impressive, that way. And Alexander did love his horse, Bucephalus (pronounced ‘Voukefalas’, in Greek, which means ‘Head of an Ox). I am so glad it was included in the sculpture!

St Dimitrios was the most amazing among all the churches I visited. That says a lot, believe me… Salonica reminded me so much of Rome, and not just because of the Roman ruins and history. It did that also in the sense that its ancient yet magnificent churches filled me with a sense of unparalleled awe. And that was mostly the case when I entered the grandiose church of St Dimitris, patron saint of Salonica. Inside the colonnade on both sides of the main space, one will find a multitude of relics and beautiful icons to marvel at. The top floor offers another impressive prespective, as you can see, and we loved it that it was Sunday when we visited, and a mass was underway, the church full with people.    

As stunning as the main church space is, though, nothing prepares the visitor for the true magificence of what hides in its bowels. Truly, I pity the visitor not in the know, who enters this church and leaves it without ever visiting the Roman crypt underneath – a labyrinthine space that easily throws you back into Roman times, if you let it…

And let it, I did, looking at ancient artifacts scattered everywhere as I visited various cell-like spaces in this underground, outwordly place. It all resonated in me like a chill on my spine, and it was an odd experience because at the same time the comforting sounds of the mass from the ground floor echoed down into the ancient spaces and pleased my ears.

At the centre of it all, stands the exact space where St Dimitrius himself was once kept imprisoned and ultimately executed by the Romans.

Galerios himself ordered the Saint’s imprisonment and ultimately his execution, simply because he prayed in public spaces and believed in Jesus Christ. St Dimitrios is heralded as the Holy Great Martyr (Megalomartiras), and also as the ‘Myrrh-Gusher’ (Mirovlitis) because according to legend, streams of scented oil came forth from his relics.

According to some sources, he was a soldier of the Roman army, which makes it hard for me to fathom just how much hate the Romans might have had for Christianity, enough to turn against one of their own, in a sense. St Dimitrios was young when he was martyred, around 26 years of age.

It was very moving and awe-inspiring for me to stand alone for a few moments before this beautiful monument raised to honour the Saint and pray to him.

A plain bougatsa…. is a ‘bougatsa me krema’ in Salonica!

Salonica is very much about food… and desserts especially. But you have to order them right!

We spent the rest of the time visiting famous quarters of the city, starting from Ladadika. This popular area took its name from the word ‘ladi’ (oil), as this was where the merchants once kept their stock of olive oil, and it was truly fortuitous that the Great Fire of 1917 that destroyed two thirds of the city, leaving 70,000 homeless, never reached this area.

Ladadika became a red light district later in time and today it is a hip place to be, full of vibrancy, a place where locals and tourists alike go for a meal or a drink and it really comes alive in the evenings, or so I hear.

We sat there lunchtime for a gyros pitta, but I forgot to call it a ‘sandwich’ when I ordered, like the locals oddly do. Luckily, the young waitress was well versed on the Athenian vernacular and got me the right meal haha

Same thing happened when we went to one of many small family establishments, just off the famous Aristotle (Aristotelous) Square, to order a Bougatsa. I asked for one and the lady asked, ‘Savoury? With cheese? Or sweet?’ And I had to laugh, because I’d promised myself that when I got to Salonica I’d order for a ‘Bougatsa’ the right way, but force of habit got in the way and I failed. The Athenians and the Salonicans have forever been teasing each other on the subject of Bougatsa…

You see, in Athens, a Bougatsa is filled with custard and sprinkled with cinnamon. It’s sweet. You can’t get it wrong if you ask for one. But in Thessaloniki, a Bougatsa means ‘pastry’. It’s a vague term. So the Salonicans differentiate by saying Bougatsa with cheese, Bougatsa with spinach, Bougatsa with cream, and so on.

So, when the nice lady asked what kind of Bougatsa I wanted, all I could do was say, ‘Sweet, with cream! Sorry!’, chuckle awkwardly, and try to save face… for being one of those odd Athenians haha

We also had the chance to walk quickly past the Louloudadika area (an open-air flower market) that was heaving at the time. It was like Monastiraki in Athens, but on speed! Since it was New Year’s Eve, it was packed, vendors were cooking souvlakis on a couple stalls, and people were eating standing all over the place, dancing and whooping to loud live music.

We found the same kind of crowds and commotion in Fraggomahalas, an area that used to be the French Quarter back in the day.

We didn’t stay long there for the same reason, but we did admire beautiful old buildings, and the most renowned landmark of this quarter – the Old Clock on the impressive bank building that still shows the time it stopped (at 11:05) during the Earthquake of 1978.

After sundown, we headed back to Aristotle Square to watch a beautiful event. Crowds started to gather way earlier than the pre-announced time, and more kept on coming, to place written wishes inside paper lanterns and lit them up.

Soon, a multitude of lanterns was rising into the night sky, offering a magical spectacle.

I took this photo as we were heading back to the hotel, at the end of a tiring (14 hours walking and exploring!) but truly unforgettable day.

I was standing before the Roman Forum, looking towards Aristotle Square and the seafront. It was a whimsical sight with the lanterns in the night sky. The photo doesn’t do it justice, but I hope you’ll enjoy this little peek.

A couple of weeks have passed now, and I miss Salonica beyond words. It was a short stay and we only had one day (New Year’s Eve, hence the crowds) to explore it in the daytime, as we were on the coach travelling or seeing other places of interest on the other days. I hope to visit it again, just hubby and me, to take it all in, in our own pace. And to visit the Ano Poli, which we missed totally during this trip.

Overlooking the city on high ground, Ano Poli (Higher City) offers generous views to the city and the bay. There are beautiful lanes and churches to explore up there, great cafes and eateries, but most of all, there are the ancient walls of the city to admire, as well as the ‘Yedi Koule’ (aka Eptapyrgion) – an Ottoman Fortress of 7 towers. These ‘promises’ are certainly enough to keep me dreaming of Salonica and aching to go back.

Not to forget those pirate ships… I certainly hope to enjoy a boat ride with ‘Captain Jack Sparrow’ at the helm next time!

VISIT FACEBOOK TO SEE THE PIRATE SHIP, ALEXANDER’S STATUE, AND MANY OTHER OF THE PHOTOS I TOOK IN SALONICA!

GO HERE TO WATCH A SHORT VIDEO THAT I MADE FOR YOU AT THE TOP OF THE WHITE TOWER!

 

Finger-licking stuff! Greek lamb roast using a delish marinade with herbs and spices

Today, I am pleased to share my special marinade for lamb (or pork). The combination of mustard, garlic, dried mint, paprika, and rosemary makes the kind of magic I cannot possibly describe. You’ll just have to try it to know. You can use oregano instead of mint, and you can add carrots and tomatillos in the pan for a colourful dish. 

GO HERE FOR MY RECIPE, INCLUDING THE ONE FOR THE TZATZIKI DIP. ENJOY!

 

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A trip to Arachova, aka Mykonos of the Winter

 

The view from the clock tower is fabulous from all sides

I recently had the pleasure to visit Arachova, a cosmopolitan town up in the mountains that the Greeks have nicknamed Mykonos of the Winter.

The same VIPs that flood Mykonos all summer do the same all winter in Arachova. It heaves with tourists from all walks of life, every hotel bed occupied on all the bank holiday or festive weekends during the winter season.

Having said that, it’s not like Mykonos at all when it comes to the ridiculously high prices. Thank goodness. Nor did I see any nudists walking around he he

We were lucky to visit Arachova on a dry and partly sunny day. Although there were many tourists around, it was comfortable to walk about and to find a table in its restaurants and cafes.

We were tipped off by someone in the know that we’d better try to eat our lunch quickly at the restaurant lest the waiter would start to give us dirty looks as the crowds are usually so big they’re used to serving fast to clear the tables for the next customers.

Yet, somehow, we found this perfect, reasonably priced restaurant with the most exquisite food where we had the chance to eat at our leisure. What’s more, our table was by the window, allowing us to enjoy a partial view to a church and the valley. It was just perfect.

Others in our coach group confessed they were less fortunate, winding up in an upmarket restaurant that served gourmet food rather than traditional Greek food (we always go for the latter – the genuine local experience) and they wound up paying way more than they were prepared to part with.

So, word of caution: If you visit Arachova do check the prices before you sit somewhere for food or drink. It’s not as bad as Mykonos as I stated earlier, but some places ARE pricey. Check the menu before entering and you’ll be fine 🙂

For what it’s worth, the restaurant we picked is called To Agnandio and you can see it in two of the photographs I posted on Facebook. On the back side, the building is flanked by a beautiful church. In the photo where the facade is showing (the wall is beautiful, decked with stonework), you can see the church behind it.

The town’s folklore museum is right next to it, and from within its yard, you’ll also find the short upward path that leads up to the Clock (Roloi), an important landmark that you must visit, if only for the panoramic views of the town, the valley, and the mountain of Parnassus.

A view to the clock tower of Arachova

We had ample time in Arachova to walk along it’s main street back and forth a couple times. This street is a rather narrow space for such a busy town, the pavements so tiny they might as well not be there at all. They provide a false sense of safety, in my opinion, and you can never take away your eyes from the traffic. It can be dangerous if you don’t, and extra care must be taken if you are visiting with children or elderly people.

The highlights for us were the short ascend up to the clock tower summit as well as the visit to the folklore museum (free admission).

Among the interesting artifacts on display in the museum, we were pleasantly surprised to find a few robotic structures that we learned were made and donated by a local pensioner. Having worked all his life for the Greek telephone company (OTE), he had a lot of old telephone equipment in his possession and had put it all in good use recycling it in this ingenious artistic manner (see the photos on Facebook).

The exhibits also included old pictures, and handiwork from traditional looms. It was an interesting glimpse into this town’s distant past, that was harrowing too, as it included references to the Nazi massacre of the Greek locals at the nearby town of Distomo during WWII.

Last but not least, Andy and I were pleasantly surprised to find among the beautiful shops one dedicated to tea! I was enamoured by the small decorative teapots and have regretted never buying one of them now that I see them in the photos. I did buy a bag of loose jasmine tea, though, that I enjoy in the afternoons as a special treat.

All in all, it was an unforgettable fun day. Arachova is very close to the major archeological site of Delphi. So, if you’re visiting Athens, do enquire at the travel agents offering daily trips. Chances are that if the destination of a coach excursion is Delphi you’ll have a stopover at Arachova for lunch. Both are must places to see. Highly recommended for a day out by coach or car!

Go HERE to see all the photos I took in Arachova. Enjoy!

 

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A boat trip from Corfu to Paxos and Parga

Pleased to share today photos from a boat trip my husband and I did last August during our stay on the island of Corfu. The excursion boat you see in the photo took us to the island of Paxos first, where we had a cooling swim a short walk away from the port of Gaios. The quiet little bay where we swam was as magical as I remembered from our first visit there in 1998 during our honeymoon vacation on Corfu.

SEE ALL THE PHOTOS HERE

The water is so crystal clear in that tiny bay that you can see every detail on the sea bed. And the rustle the water makes as it laps on the shore and scrapes the shingles makes this pleasing sound to the ears that I can never have enough of… Here is a short video I took to show you, guys. Have a listen!

You’re welcome he he 🙂

After our swim, we barely had time to grab a quick bite to eat before it was time to leave. Leaving Paxos, we set sail to the seaside town of Parga in the mainland of Epirus.

The beautiful architecture of Parga and the picturesque island at a short distance away from the shore made up a perfectly quaint landscape that just begged for photographs. Parga is such a stunning town for a vacation, with beautiful beaches nearby that can be visited by boat. I regret to say we didn’t have time to visit the island or the castle. We only had time for a quick lunch at one of the many tavernas on offer and a quick wander around the beautiful lanes before it was time to head back to Corfu.

Though the boat trip was fun, filling our senses with sheer delight, it was rather exhausting. We spent a good part of the day on the boat as the distances are great.

What I really wanted to do was visit Parga and head straight uphill to visit the castle, but as I said, there was no time. Plus, it was 3 pm by the time we arrived and the sun was hammering. What can I say? I am just a Greek – haha. So I ran towards the nearest awning for shelter. At this time, I normally have a siesta 🙂

By the way, if you visit the south of Corfu often and a boat trip to Parga is of interest, here is a tip: I checked a few of the local agents in Moraitika where we were staying in Corfu but no one was offering a boat trip just to Parga.

Towards the end of my stay in Corfu, though, I bumped into a friend, Soula Sakadaki, and she informed me she’d opened her own travel agency earlier this year. Soula is an awesome lady and a seasoned pro in the business.

Go pay her a visit if you’re visiting Moraitika and the surrounding villages and see what she has to offer to you. She is hoping to offer Parga as a single destination by boat next year and I cannot wait! Her agency is near the roundabout and it is called Soula’s Corfu Travel.

 

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Fun in Athens at Christmas: Monastiraki and the Stavros Niarchos Foundation (SNFCC)

Two wonderful days in Athens… 

(See the photos on my Facebook page)

Between Christmas and the New Year, my husband and I headed over to Athens for two days, and we were determined to visit new places as much as we could. The first novelty we experienced was the accommodation itself – as it turned out to be a totally unmanned property! The front door of the old neoclassical building at Monastiraki was locked and when we phoned the contact number to request admission a nice lady on the phone directed us how to open the keypad on the door to extract a key!

To be honest, we felt a little worried about sleeping in an old building without any staff on site – while trusting that the other guests would be as careful as we were to lock the door each time they went in and out. Luckily, all went well, and the place itself was clean and beautiful, with the typical high ceilings and the old, tall wooden windows and floors that one would expect.

Monastiraki itself felt safe to walk around in, even late into the night, and the streets were packed, especially in Psyrri where we went to admire the Christmas lights outside Little Kook. During that first day, we did quite well in our quest to try new experiences! We went to A for Athens for coffee – a café that’s part of the hotel of the same name. It’s on a terrace and overlooks Monastiraki square with the Acropolis on the opposite hill. As you can see from the first two pictures above, the view was as spectacular as we had imagined it to be!

After visiting a few shops, we wound up at our favourite haunt – the Irish ‘James Joyce Pub’ at the heart of Monastiraki, but committed to make it a new experience, we both ordered new things on the menu. Andy had sausage with onions and I utterly enjoyed a meal I had come to miss from my days living in the UK. It was a huge dish of steak and Guinness pie and it was absolutely delicious.

The evening found us  having  dinner in Athinas street,  near  the  Athens market.  We  walked  a lot  around  Monastiraki,  Plaka  and  Psirri  afterwards, enjoying  the  lights  and  taking  in  the  city  vibe.

Even though by bedtime we thought we’d had an absolutely perfect day, little did we know that the next day would impress and please us even more! For a while now we both wanted to visit the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre (SNFCC) but never seemed to get the chance. It is situated south of Athens by the sea, on the grounds where the old Hippodrome (race horse track) used to be. The free shuttle picked us up from Syntagma square early in the morning. We were at our destination in just 10 minutes.

To say that our mouths were gaping open, on and off, as we discovered the place would be an understatement. It wasn’t just because of the grandeur of the National Opera and the National Library that are housed in the SNFCC. It wasn’t even the beautiful canal with the musical fountains that operate to the sound of music. It was the sheer GENIUS of the whole undertaking and the design of the place. I chose the specific picture above, just to show you the one thing that impressed me more than anything else:

In the picture, I am standing on top of an edifice called Faros (Lighthouse) at the SNFCC. From there, one has a generous view of Athens and the Acropolis. On the other side, one can admire the sea view. It stands at the highest ground of the Foundation. Behind me, you can see the edifice of the National Opera and the canal. Do you see what’s on top of the Opera? Grounds! Gardens! I could not believe, as Andy and I were making our way downhill after seeing that, now realizing that we were basically stepping along the top of the opera building. It was just too mind-blowing to wrap my head around it.

The gardens were beautiful, to say the least. There are pine trees, an olive grove, planted herbs and vegetables of many kinds, and a large clearing in the midst of it all that is perfect for family picnics and open-air cinema viewings throughout the summer. Amidst the greenery, one finds surprises as they walk around. Delightful features and fun things for the kids to do, and some also for the adults. ‘The Maze’ impressed me the most, but as the ground was soggy from an earlier rain we gave it a miss. Perhaps next time!

People can cycle in the park or jog or just sit and enjoy nature or the beautiful canal that uses sea water, being in direct connection with the sea. Events take place in the summer period in many parts of the Foundation outdoors. It’s just a fun place to be, and I’m certainly going back – probably in the spring, when I hear it’s beautiful with the flowers in bloom.

I’d also love to combine my visit next time with one at the Eugenides Foundation with its state-of-the-art planetarium – it’s literally across Syggrou avenue from the SNFCC via an underground passage (under said avenue). The educational shows there about astronomy and nature are said to be spectacular.

If you’re planning a trip to Athens, I highly recommend you visit the SNFCC. In case you intend to use the free shuttle service, please note it does not depart from Syntagma, but only comes and stops briefly at the corner bus stop, just in front of ‘Public’ superstore. Timetables for the shuttle and all sorts of information you will find at the SNFCC website.

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Majestic views in Lake Doxa and a secret school

This view took my breath away…

My husband, Andy, and I spent one cold Sunday at the end of November filling our minds with images of breathtaking beauty at the mountains and plains of Feneos in Korinthia (i.e. the prefecture of ‘Korinthos’ – Corinth, in English).

I took this photo from the top level balcony of the stunning St George’s Monastery which overlooks Lake Doxa. The monastery of St George was originally built by the lake, but in 1693 the water level rose much too quickly and the monks fled, barely having time to save themselves. The ruins of that monastery are still underwater today. The same year, upon losing their home, the monks got to work building a new monastery high up on the mountain, to make sure history will not not repeated. In the monastery’s garden today, the monks grow a special variety of roses from the Peloponnese that are particularly aromatic.

Once a year, at harvesting season, they get to work using the fragrant flowers to make a syrupy sweet, which they sell at the monastery’s gift shop in jars. They also welcome the guests with a free treat of this sweet, and I can attest to the fact it is highly aromatic and delicious (albeit a little too sweet for my liking). Walking around the charming court of the monastery (that’s decked in stone everywhere you look) and around its different levels and corridors is a pleasure in itself. I was also impressed by the seemingly tireless tour given by an elderly monk. He was such a sweet soul and kept welcoming coachfuls of guests inside the tiny church, sharing about the history of the place in a low soft-spoken voice that rang with kindness and humility.

A depiction of krifo skolio by painter, Nikolaos Gyzis

But, above anything else, for me, the highlight was, by far, my chance to see the tiny nook inside the roof of the monastery that used to serve as a ‘krifo skolio’ (secret school) during the time when Greece was occupied by the Ottoman Empire (1453-1821). To get to the roof, one has to take two short stairs that are more like ladders and thus require a lot of attention. The wood they are made off, and the tiny landing in between, creaked with every step, so guests had to allow up to two people to be up there at a time. Time was precious once you got to the top to admire this precious little space.

The first time, out of respect for everyone waiting below, I took a quick look and felt embarrassed to take out my camera. Luckily, the crowd dispersed later, before it was time to leave on our coach, so I was able to go back up again, my camera in hand this time, to drink in the small space a little better, more reverently as it deserved, and to take a couple of photos. I didn’t go over the high wooden hurdle to venture inside, taking the hint that the place was off limits.

Two elderly men had stepped inside earlier to take a closer look and I thought it was a bit of a naughty thing to do… but also potentially dangerous (creaking floors and all that). But anyway, the photos came out clearer than I’d expected, since the place was deeped in semi-darkness. I love the ray of light captured by the lens, which wasn’t visible with the naked eye. It gives the space that reverence I believe it has. Truly, the ‘krifo skolio’ is romanticised enough in art, just like it is in the famous painting by Nikolaos Gyzis, and it does deserve to be.

After all, every priest and every monk during the Ottoman rule in Greece must have taken it upon themselves to keep the Christian faith and the Greek language alive during those dark 400 years. Had they not decided to organize these meetings in the dark of night to teach Greek children how to read and write in their own language, as well as all about Christian doctrine, chances are the Greeks would not be today the kind of people they are – i.e. people who regard their ancestry something to be proud about and also people that keep God alive in their hearts.

The following stanza from the Greek poet Polemis illustrates the atmosphere of ‘krifo skolio’ perfectly. This is my best effort to translate it into English:

“Outside, black-cloaked desperation

The tangible darkness of a bitter slavery

And inside the vaulted church

The church that every night morphs into a school

The apprehensive light of the oil lamp

Stirs the dreams while trembling

And gathers the little slave children all around.”

When we visited the lake, I quickly turned around to realize my hubbie was nowhere to be found. Crowds had gathered everywhere to admire the local produce on offer that was laid out across many stands along the bank.

I spotted Andy again a little later emerging through the wandering tourist crowds, and he was singing the praises of the locals, saying how hospitable they all were acting. Turned out he’d only gone on a little tour by himself while I was buying all sorts of lentils from the local plains at amazing prices. He was over the moon, having been offered in that short time various kinds of rusks, cheeses and tsipouro to try. I quickly followed his advice and tried some of the samples on offer as well. He was right; it was all delicious. If you’re ever in the area, make sure to try everything. I think we did haha. And we did go away with a couple of big bags. What a saving it all was haha

I’ve already cooked beans and fava and they were both as delicious as they had promised they’d be. I am still to rub the wild oregano I got off the stalks and put it in a jar. That was incredible timing as my longstanding stock of wild oregano from Moraitika, Corfu had recently been depleted 🙂

The lake itself is phenomenally beautiful. I’d love to go back one day and go around it to drink in its beauty at my leisure. In the summer, one can even rent boats (or is it pedalos?). People can cycle along the bank all year round or rent horses and ponies. We only had a short time to enjoy the views as it was quite cold and threatening with rain, but we managed a short walk to the Agios Fanourios church. It is tiny and sits at the end of a long strip of land extending far into the lake.

Our beautiful day out continued with lunch at the village of Feneos – we had roasted lamb, Choriatiki salad, and a side dish of local butter beans in tomato sauce. All enjoyed with fresh bread as we sat by the fireplace. We couldn’t have been taken to a better place for lunch. After all the walking around in the cold, everything hit the spot perfectly.

It’s been almost two weeks since that day and my mind is still full of beautiful images. The colors on the forest trees, the sparkling lake waters, the ancient woodwork and stonework of the monastery, and, last but not least, the sunrays reaching down to the plains as they pierced through dramatic dark clouds. It all helped to take pictures I will cherish forever. This part of Greece is not well known but well worth a visit.

SEE ALL MY PHOTOGRAPHS HERE

 

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A day out in the alluring Greek island of Spetses #summertime #Spetses #Greece

Hi, All! I jumped at the chance to visit Spetses on a daily trip last weekend and I am thrilled to share about it today.

First time I visited Spetses was at the age of nineteen with my Uni friends, so it is very close to my heart. I visited it again for short breaks in the 90s and the 00s. Even though this visit was only for a day, it was just as exciting and my husband and I had six whole hours to catch the vibe of it all.

Spetses is an island of the Saronic gulf (close to Athens) that has a huge naval history thanks to Laskarina Bouboulina, the admiral of the Greek Navy, who was a heroine of the Greek War of Independence.

Oh my goodness. This picture makes me feel so old, LOL. But that was 1986 and I was a student at Athens Uni. And I had to show you this picture as it makes the island of Spetses look so idyllic, exactly as I remember it that first time I saw it. My hotel room had a view to the old clock square. It was so built up when I saw it again the other day it was heart-breaking. The middle space was almost taken on completely by restaurant seating areas, and two of them were not even traditional tavernas. They were serving pizza and pasta instead. I found them so out of place. So I like this old, quiet square better… and if you’ve been to any Greek islands in the 80s, you know what I’m talking about and what exactly it is they lack these days. Just looking at this photo makes me hear bouzouki chords in my mind, and my friends from Uni and I even spent an evening dancing in a bouzouki club!

The t-shirt I am wearing says, “If you’re gonna do it, do it right. Do it in Spetses!” and it featured Garfield laid out on a deckchair, sunglasses on, drink in had. So 80s! I was a huge George Michael fan back then so the slogan was perfect; I had to buy the t-shirt LOL. I wore it every summer after that for decades. It was only last year that it’d got so many holes in it I had to throw it away, much to my grief. RIP Garfield of Spetses, LOL!

Credit for the image to athensattica.com

But I digress. Back to my wonderful day out… After a hearty breakfast at the Dappia, the beautiful stone-paved port of Spetses, my husband and I went exploring. On the back streets of Dappia, across from a tiny park, we found Bouboulina’s stately home, now a museum.

Laskarina Bouboulina was a sea captain, and one of the greatest heroines of the Greek War of Independence in the 1820s against the Ottoman rule. 

Inside her home, we saw personal artefacts and beautiful furniture dating from many centuries ago.

Taking pictures wasn’t allowed inside but I was able to find online this photograph of the exquisite living room of the mansion. The wooden ceiling stole my heart. It came from Florence in pieces, apparently, and was assembled at the mansion piece by piece. The intricate designs carved on the wood were breathtaking. And so was the room itself. Just the idea that I was standing at the place where Boubloulina planned the next naval battles with other captains for the liberation of Greece made the hairs on my spine stand on end. It was an experience that made the Greek War of Independence come alive, and I felt the kind of awe I have only felt once before – at Agia Lavra monastery, standing before the legendary banner that started the same war in 1821.

How easy it was to picture Bouboulina in her own spaces! It was a huge privilege to be there. I was deeply moved as I admired her own ancient icon of St Nicholas – the protector of seafarers. It was a beautiful wooden icon with intricate carvings – gold plated. I could imagine how many times she must have prayed before it for the victory of her naval battles so she could save her beloved country. Wow. Just that artefact was enough reward for visiting that special place.

The pictures I’m sharing today from my trip feature the beautiful exterior of Bouboulina’s mansion, and also Spetses’s port (the famous Dappia), the imposing Poseidonion Hotel, and other areas. It was 36 degrees C and we were melting, so the horse and carriage ride and the walk to the end of the peninsula to visit the small marina and the shipyard had to be postponed for another time. All we could do was keep sitting here and there in the shade with food and drink for sustenance and refreshment, LOL.

I am also sharing pictures from other areas we visited on the way – the Corinth Canal, Costa (near the cosmopolitan Porto Heli) where we took the ferry across to Spetses, and the enchanting little town of Ancient Epidavros where we stopped over for coffee on our way back home.

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Zagori: A Journey Through Time #Zagorochoria #Epirus #Greektravel

Kokkori bridge, Zagori, Epirus

The alluring area of Zagori on the mountains of Epirus is where I set my supernatural romantic suspense novella, “The Boy on the Bridge.” This amazing place of lush greenery and old stone bridges stole my heart away when I visited it with my husband a few years back.

Zagori is a place of astounding beauty and it’s incredibly peaceful… To visit it, is to become enchanted, and you cannot help but leave a part of your heart forever behind when you depart. Andy and I visited Zagori in the spring when the snow and the ice had melted and the treacherous uphill roads were a pleasure to drive on without distractions, except maybe the frantic clicks of the camera from my enthused husband by my side.

Our first stop was the village of Monodentri so we could visit the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi and enjoy its generous view to the Vikos gorge. As soon as we parked at Monodentri and stepped out, we found ourselves before a maze of cobbled stoned lanes. The village captured our hearts from the very first moment…

 

We took the cobbled road to the monastery quite early in the day, having set off from the city of Ioannina after a very early breakfast at our hotel. There were not many tourists around and we thought that, at any moment, we’d see a flock of sheep or the odd mule walk up the cobbled road past us, right through the middle of the path where special stonework had been laid for the animals’ passage back in the old days.

 

Zagori (or Zagorochoria) is a complex of 45 quaint villages in the prefecture of Epirus in the northwest of Greece. Some of these villages are situated at high altitude offering magnificent views of the Pindus mountaintops. Often, as the visitor travels around the villages, they feel compelled to stop and marvel at the weathered stone bridges that are scattered all over this area. Found in deserted landscapes more often than not, they look rather forlorn but nonetheless, they remain unique landmarks of astounding beauty.

The word Zagori derives from the Slavic words “za” that means “behind” and “gora” that means “mountain”. The ancient Greek name “Paroraioi” has exactly the same meaning, i.e. “The people who live behind the mountains”. The villages of Zagori are a feast to the eyes made of earth and stone and they have been exquisitely preserved through time, ever since their heyday during the country’s occupation by Turkish rule. This period of Greek history has been recorded as particularly bleak, lasting for 400 years until the Greek Revolution in 1821. Despite the devastation that had plagued the country at the time, somehow, Zagori managed to become a focal point of commercial activity.

 

Many villagers prospered and, as a result, a series of magnificent bridges were erected all across the area to facilitate the passage of merchants. One of the most prosperous villages at the time was Kipi. It is the village that inspired “The Boy on the Bridge” and, indeed, in the old days, there were many bridges around it and in the major area to facilitate the transportation of goods. I visited three of these bridges: ‘Kokkori, ‘Kalogeriko’ and ‘Capetan Arkouda’.

 

Today, the area of Zagori is a popular holiday destination throughout the year. Hikers often return to this area to explore the mountains or to walk along the paths of the famous Vikos gorge. As well as offering a serene setting for a walk or a picnic, the river Voidomatis (named oddly ‘ox eye’) also provides the enjoyment of rafting expeditions. Visitors can often come across the unexpected opportunity to even swim while hiking across the countryside.

For example, the natural bathtubs of Ovires (or Kolybithres) that are situated between Papigo and Mikro Papigo are popular among local youths who love to cool off here on a hot summer’s day. And that is not all. Just walking around the villages is a unique delight in itself. The remarkably preserved buildings and paths are a joy to photograph and to pose by. And when you sample the local meats and pies at the local tavernas, you will be more than satisfied. There is a series of local organic meats, cheeses and wines on offer here as well as the famous Zagori herbs, syrup sweets, jam and honey.

Although my husband Andy and I visited quite a few Zagori villages, only two stand out significantly among the rest. The first one is Dilofo. I count myself lucky to have been tipped off by a friend to seek out that specific village because it is not mentioned in the guidebooks and it’s hardly ever highlighted on the internet. Once we got there, we realized immediately that we were in for a rare treat. From the municipal car park, we took an alluring cobbled path and wound up in a spacious square where we sat to eat at a taverna under a huge plane tree.

There, quite unexpectedly, we sampled more than the fantastic local cuisine. We sampled a taste of the past too, a world where time stands still for you. It is a place where you suddenly forget that you own a mobile or a camera. Suddenly you find yourself whispering while you chat, as if afraid of breaking the spell of the moment. It feels somewhat foreign to step back in time and at the same time, tremendously familiar, as if you become privy to the life of the people who lived here a long time before you were even born. In an eerie kind of way, it felt like the echoes from the hoofs of the horses were only now dying down, like the area’s renowned builders had only recently laid the tiles on the village house roofs. Dilofo is such a pleasure to discover and to me it is, by far, Zagori’s hidden gem. It is a place that is bound to enthuse and mystify the visitor no matter how many times they’ve been there before.

 

Papigo, on the other hand, is quite well known and also highly popular among tourists. We chose this enchanting village for two overnight stays in a traditional inn called “Astraka”, named after one of the mountains that tower above it. Papigo stands on the top of a mountain itself, at the end of a treacherous road that snakes endlessly uphill in a way that makes someone wonder how the locals travel during the cold, icy months of winter. Papigo is tiny but the beauty of it is indescribable. Anywhere you look, you feel the unstoppable urge to press the camera button. One of the hiking paths that starts here, ends high up in the mountains where hikers can visit the lake Drakolimni (dragon lake) near the summit of mountain Gamila (camel).

 

Papigo is situated within easy reach from the river Voidomatis, the village of Aristi, the village of Vikos with its breathtaking view to the gorge, as well as the Monastery of Panagia Spileotissa where the short walk through the forest along the river bank will remain forever indelible in my mind…

The first thing that the visitor is likely to notice about the people of Zagori is that they are uniquely lovely and hospitable. I will mention here the kindly owner at the inn who upon handing us the key to our lovely room, spent a good minute speaking highly of the local water supply, suggesting it makes washing oneself a whole new experience. I took her boasting with a pinch of salt I must admit but I wound up really impressed very soon after all when after a hot shower, I found out that I suddenly had the silkiest hair and skin ever.

 

People around the restaurants and in the streets all over Zagori were equally eager to direct us and to talk but among them all, one particular local stands out in my memory simply because he was a special delight to talk to. He was an elderly man, an inhabitant of the village of Aristi. When we visited there, taking in the generous views of the snowcapped mountains in the distance, he approached us and offered a kindly greeting. He was very friendly and chatty and he introduced himself as a retired teacher. He took it upon himself to inform us about the sites and the area and he was particularly boastful of Voidomatis river, saying that its water is pure and that the locals still drink it without any qualms.

Then he stretched out his hand and pointed to the hills towering over Aristi, saying that back at the War, the locals took the hill in a battle against the enemy, thus stopping them from taking the village. Having realized at once that he meant WWII and eager to learn more, I then questioned him: “Which enemy is that?” To my surprise, he remained silent and fixed me with a curious stare that lasted a while, finally responding quite oddly: “What education do you have?” I was quite taken aback as you realize! “I am a university graduate,” I replied politely and matter-of-factly. “I am surprised then,” he said, “You should know we were fighting the Germans in the War!” to which I laughed and explained that I had only meant to ask him to clarify if he was referring to the Germans or their allies, the Italians.

I knew only too well that the Greeks were also fighting off the Italians around Epirus at the time, and we were in the heart of Epirus, after all. This seemed to make sense to him and he finally relaxed and continued to talk about the old days. I thought it was hilarious, that he should think me that ignorant, and for the whole day, Andy and I would pose the question to each other: “What education do you have?” – only to burst into the most uncontrollable giggles afterwards.

Dilofo

In all, our three-day excursion around Zagori in the spring has been a sheer delight for all the senses and one of the most unforgettable travels I have ever had. It goes without saying that we only saw a fracture of what’s out there to see and that a return there is as desirable as it is inevitable in the years to come.

I’ve shared more photos from each area I visited in Zagori on my Facebook profile, and you’re welcome to check them out here:

Kipi-Kalogeriko Bridge-Kapetan Arkouda Bridge: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225320577262189

Monodentri-Agia Paraskevi Monastery-Oxia-Kokkori Bridge: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225384334376077

Dilofo: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225414582852270

Aristi village & Aristi bridge: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225449406722845

Papigo-Kolymbithres-Mikro Papigo: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225473470204417

View to Vikos gorge from Vikos village-Monastery Panagia Spileotissa: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225513760691654

 

How to get to Zagori:

CENTRAL ZAGORI: From Ioannina, take the road to Konitsa. At 19 km, after the metal bridge, turn off right for central Zagori. Here you can visit Monodentri and the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi, Oxia, Dilofo, Kipi, the single arch bridge of Kokkori and the three-arch bridge of Plakida (Kalogeriko). In central Zagori, you can enjoy a view to the Vikos gorge both from Monodentri and Oxia.

WEST ZAGORI: From Ioannina, take the road to Konitsa. At 38 km, turn off after Kalpaki and head to Aristi. From there, you can also visit Vikos, the Monastery of Panagia Spileotissa, the Aristi bridge, Papigo, Kolybithres, Mikro Papigo. Vikos offers the most breathtaking view of the Vikos gorge and it is unmissable.  

 

Some Kilometric distances:

IOANNINA-DILOFO : 32 KM

IOANNINA-KHPOI : 35KM

DILOFO-PAPIGO: 28KM

DILOFO KONITSA : 36KM

IOANNINA-PAPIGO 55 KM (takes approx. 1 hr and 15 mins)

ATHENS-PAPIGO 495 KM  

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