Travels and weekend breaks

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Zagori: A Journey Through Time #Zagorochoria #Epirus #Greektravel

Kokkori bridge, Zagori, Epirus

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Preparing my new book, “The Boy on the Bridge,” for publication made me nostalgic for Zagori, Epirus where I set the story. So, I recently found myself browsing through the photographs from a trip there with my husband a few years back. The photographs brought back all the magic I felt back then, so I decided to share a few with you today and tell you about that unforgettable experience.

Zagori is a place of astounding beauty and it’s incredibly peaceful… To visit it, is to become enchanted, and you cannot help but leave a part of your heart forever behind when you depart. Andy and I visited Zagori in the spring when the snow and the ice had melted and the treacherous uphill roads were a pleasure to drive on without distractions, except maybe the frantic clicks of the camera from my enthused husband by my side.

Our first stop was the village of Monodentri so we could visit the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi and enjoy its generous view to the Vikos gorge. As soon as we parked at Monodentri and stepped out, we found ourselves before a maze of cobbled stoned lanes. The village captured our hearts from the very first moment…

 

We took the cobbled road to the monastery quite early in the day, having set off from the city of Ioannina after a very early breakfast at our hotel. There were not many tourists around and we thought that, at any moment, we’d see a flock of sheep or the odd mule walk up the cobbled road past us, right through the middle of the path where special stonework had been laid for the animals’ passage back in the old days.

 

Zagori (or Zagorochoria) is a complex of 45 quaint villages in the prefecture of Epirus in the northwest of Greece. Some of these villages are situated at high altitude offering magnificent views of the Pindus mountaintops. Often, as the visitor travels around the villages, they feel compelled to stop and marvel at the weathered stone bridges that are scattered all over this area. Found in deserted landscapes more often than not, they look rather forlorn but nonetheless, they remain unique landmarks of astounding beauty.

The word Zagori derives from the Slavic words “za” that means “behind” and “gora” that means “mountain”. The ancient Greek name “Paroraioi” has exactly the same meaning, i.e. “The people who live behind the mountains”. The villages of Zagori are a feast to the eyes made of earth and stone and they have been exquisitely preserved through time, ever since their heyday during the country’s occupation by Turkish rule. This period of Greek history has been recorded as particularly bleak, lasting for 400 years until the Greek Revolution in 1821. Despite the devastation that had plagued the country at the time, somehow, Zagori managed to become a focal point of commercial activity.

 

Many villagers prospered and, as a result, a series of magnificent bridges were erected all across the area to facilitate the passage of merchants. One of the most prosperous villages at the time was Kipi. It is the village that inspired “The Boy on the Bridge” and, indeed, in the old days, there were many bridges around it and in the major area to facilitate the transportation of goods. I visited three of these bridges: ‘Kokkori, ‘Kalogeriko’ and ‘Capetan Arkouda’.

 

Today, the area of Zagori is a popular holiday destination throughout the year. Hikers often return to this area to explore the mountains or to walk along the paths of the famous Vikos gorge. As well as offering a serene setting for a walk or a picnic, the river Voidomatis (named oddly ‘ox eye’) also provides the enjoyment of rafting expeditions. Visitors can often come across the unexpected opportunity to even swim while hiking across the countryside.

For example, the natural bathtubs of Ovires (or Kolybithres) that are situated between Papigo and Mikro Papigo are popular among local youths who love to cool off here on a hot summer’s day. And that is not all. Just walking around the villages is a unique delight in itself. The remarkably preserved buildings and paths are a joy to photograph and to pose by. And when you sample the local meats and pies at the local tavernas, you will be more than satisfied. There is a series of local organic meats, cheeses and wines on offer here as well as the famous Zagori herbs, syrup sweets, jam and honey.

Although my husband Andy and I visited quite a few Zagori villages, only two stand out significantly among the rest. The first one is Dilofo. I count myself lucky to have been tipped off by a friend to seek out that specific village because it is not mentioned in the guidebooks and it’s hardly ever highlighted on the internet. Once we got there, we realized immediately that we were in for a rare treat. From the municipal car park, we took an alluring cobbled path and wound up in a spacious square where we sat to eat at a taverna under a huge plane tree.

There, quite unexpectedly, we sampled more than the fantastic local cuisine. We sampled a taste of the past too, a world where time stands still for you. It is a place where you suddenly forget that you own a mobile or a camera. Suddenly you find yourself whispering while you chat, as if afraid of breaking the spell of the moment. It feels somewhat foreign to step back in time and at the same time, tremendously familiar, as if you become privy to the life of the people who lived here a long time before you were even born. In an eerie kind of way, it felt like the echoes from the hoofs of the horses were only now dying down, like the area’s renowned builders had only recently laid the tiles on the village house roofs. Dilofo is such a pleasure to discover and to me it is, by far, Zagori’s hidden gem. It is a place that is bound to enthuse and mystify the visitor no matter how many times they’ve been there before.

 

Papigo, on the other hand, is quite well known and also highly popular among tourists. We chose this enchanting village for two overnight stays in a traditional inn called “Astraka”, named after one of the mountains that tower above it. Papigo stands on the top of a mountain itself, at the end of a treacherous road that snakes endlessly uphill in a way that makes someone wonder how the locals travel during the cold, icy months of winter. Papigo is tiny but the beauty of it is indescribable. Anywhere you look, you feel the unstoppable urge to press the camera button. One of the hiking paths that starts here, ends high up in the mountains where hikers can visit the lake Drakolimni (dragon lake) near the summit of mountain Gamila (camel).

 

Papigo is situated within easy reach from the river Voidomatis, the village of Aristi, the village of Vikos with its breathtaking view to the gorge, as well as the Monastery of Panagia Spileotissa where the short walk through the forest along the river bank will remain forever indelible in my mind…

The first thing that the visitor is likely to notice about the people of Zagori is that they are uniquely lovely and hospitable. I will mention here the kindly owner at the inn who upon handing us the key to our lovely room, spent a good minute speaking highly of the local water supply, suggesting it makes washing oneself a whole new experience. I took her boasting with a pinch of salt I must admit but I wound up really impressed very soon after all when after a hot shower, I found out that I suddenly had the silkiest hair and skin ever.

 

People around the restaurants and in the streets all over Zagori were equally eager to direct us and to talk but among them all, one particular local stands out in my memory simply because he was a special delight to talk to. He was an elderly man, an inhabitant of the village of Aristi. When we visited there, taking in the generous views of the snowcapped mountains in the distance, he approached us and offered a kindly greeting. He was very friendly and chatty and he introduced himself as a retired teacher. He took it upon himself to inform us about the sites and the area and he was particularly boastful of Voidomatis river, saying that its water is pure and that the locals still drink it without any qualms.

Then he stretched out his hand and pointed to the hills towering over Aristi, saying that back at the War, the locals took the hill in a battle against the enemy, thus stopping them from taking the village. Having realized at once that he meant WWII and eager to learn more, I then questioned him: “Which enemy is that?” To my surprise, he remained silent and fixed me with a curious stare that lasted a while, finally responding quite oddly: “What education do you have?” I was quite taken aback as you realize! “I am a university graduate,” I replied politely and matter-of-factly. “I am surprised then,” he said, “You should know we were fighting the Germans in the War!” to which I laughed and explained that I had only meant to ask him to clarify if he was referring to the Germans or their allies, the Italians.

I knew only too well that the Greeks were also fighting off the Italians around Epirus at the time, and we were in the heart of Epirus, after all. This seemed to make sense to him and he finally relaxed and continued to talk about the old days. I thought it was hilarious, that he should think me that ignorant, and for the whole day, Andy and I would pose the question to each other: “What education do you have?” – only to burst into the most uncontrollable giggles afterwards.

Dilofo

In all, our three-day excursion around Zagori in the spring has been a sheer delight for all the senses and one of the most unforgettable travels I have ever had. It goes without saying that we only saw a fracture of what’s out there to see and that a return there is as desirable as it is inevitable in the years to come.

I’ve shared more photos from each area I visited in Zagori on my Facebook profile, and you’re welcome to check them out here:

Kipi-Kalogeriko Bridge-Kapetan Arkouda Bridge: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225320577262189

Monodentri-Agia Paraskevi Monastery-Oxia-Kokkori Bridge: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225384334376077

Dilofo: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225414582852270

Aristi village & Aristi bridge: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225449406722845

Papigo-Kolymbithres-Mikro Papigo: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225473470204417

View to Vikos gorge from Vikos village-Monastery Panagia Spileotissa: https://www.facebook.com/efrosini.moschoudi/posts/10225513760691654

 

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How to get to Zagori:

CENTRAL ZAGORI: From Ioannina, take the road to Konitsa. At 19 km, after the metal bridge, turn off right for central Zagori. Here you can visit Monodentri and the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi, Oxia, Dilofo, Kipi, the single arch bridge of Kokkori and the three-arch bridge of Plakida (Kalogeriko). In central Zagori, you can enjoy a view to the Vikos gorge both from Monodentri and Oxia.

WEST ZAGORI: From Ioannina, take the road to Konitsa. At 38 km, turn off after Kalpaki and head to Aristi. From there, you can also visit Vikos, the Monastery of Panagia Spileotissa, the Aristi bridge, Papigo, Kolybithres, Mikro Papigo. Vikos offers the most breathtaking view of the Vikos gorge and it is unmissable.  

 

Some Kilometric distances:

IOANNINA-DILOFO : 32 KM

IOANNINA-KHPOI : 35KM

DILOFO-PAPIGO: 28KM

DILOFO KONITSA : 36KM

IOANNINA-PAPIGO 55 KM (takes approx. 1 hr and 15 mins)

ATHENS-PAPIGO 495 KM  

 

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A marathon race in Nafplio inspired my Greek novel, Running Haunted


Nafplio was the first capital of Greece after the country’s War of Independence in the 1820s against Turkish rule. As a result, it is a town steeped in history, an element that is present in every corner of the old town center, with its grand neoclassical buildings and the magnificent Venetian fortress, Palamidi, that dominates the town’s skyline with its unparalleled charm. Not to forget, of course, the picturesque waterfront. The tiny fortress of Bourtzi, set in the water like a jewel and a silent sentinel, is an idyllic landmark that visitors love to marvel at from the multitude of cafes and restaurants lining the port.

Thought I’d share today some photos from a special weekend break in this magnificent town, which took place a few years back. It was the weekend of the annual Nafplio Marathon race, plus it was in March, very close to Independence Day (March 25). The Greek flags decorating the picturesque lanes of Nafplio added to their inherent charm a touch of national pride.

During our weekend break, my husband and I made sure to walk around the town a lot, to take in the incredible energy of it all, and to fill our minds with the serenity of the setting.

Saturday was a quiet day, but Sunday was a celebration! The town came alive with big crowds that stood expectant and music blaring from massive speakers. The annual Marathon race of Nafplio, a highly successful event, took place that morning, sending both runners and cyclists on a series of races around town and its outskirts to be cheered by excited spectators.

As opposed to the Athens marathon that’s regarded one of the most difficult to participate in (because its last stretch is a continuous climb uphill), the Nafplio marathon proved to be much easier for my husband, who ran the race, seeing that the ground was flat throughout.

Strolling around Nafplio is a unique experience. Magnificent squares, such as Syntagma (Constitution) and Trion Navarchon (Three Admirals), picturesque lanes, cafes and tavernas, curio shops and smart boutiques attract the eye in every corner. Surely, a photographer’s paradise.

For the enthusiasts of history, there is a lot to see and explore. Other than the Archeological museum and the Mosque (that housed the first parliament of Greece after the War of Independence), there are three historical forts around town.

Palamidi is, by far, the most magnificent, set atop a high peak that overlooks Nafplio. On a lower peak beside it, stands the fort of Akronafplia, and last but not least, the tiny fort of Bourtzi is, hands down, the most enchanting, seeing that it’s built on a tiny island at a short distance from the seafront. On a peaceful, sunny day, it’s a mesmerizing sight, seemingly floating on the water like a peaceful, off-white bird.

To me, it is no surprise that my great love for Nafplio, coupled with the delightful experience of that Marathon weekend there, in time inspired to write a novel – my romantic comedy, Running Haunted. And, in it, I unfold the allure of Nafplio in all its glory.

The book tells the story of Kelly Mellios, a marathon runner, who visits Nafplio to run the race and winds up getting hired to run a house. With a ghost in it!

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The stunning and athletic Kelly Mellios runs a marathon in the alluring Greek town of Nafplio and winds up getting hired as a housekeeper by Alex Sarakis, a charming hotelier. Alex lives with his three underage children and a quirky pug, but no one knows there’s an extra inhabitant in the house… It’s the ghost of Alex’s late wife that lingers on with a secret plan.

When Kelly finds out the house is haunted, she freaks out at first, but then finds herself itching to help the ghost settle its unfinished business. It is evident there’s room for improvement in this family… Plus, her growing attraction towards Alex is overpowering…

Will Kelly do the ghost’s bidding? How will it affect her? And just how strange is this pug?

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A tour of the best churches of Rome

There are a thousand and one posts out there about the Eternal City… but I’m not here to tell you about The Fontana Di Trevi, the quaint lanes of Trastevere or the shopping experience in Via Veneto…

Instead, I’m here to share with you a different side of Rome: the beauty of its grandiose churches which I indulged on to the max a few years ago during a short holiday break for the New Year.

I do confess, though, that as I set off on my sightseeing tour my original intention had been somewhat different. Other than the indispensable city guide, I had also packed a paperback edition of Dan Brown’s “Angels and Demons”. I had already read the book from cover to cover and was eager to follow the trail of its main character, Robert Langdon.

Having sought every nook described in the book to find the clues, I can vouch that the author has his descriptions accurate down to a ‘t’ – or should I say, down to the last star, pyramid and obelisk! I was particularly thrilled to visit two specific churches as I “followed” Robert Langdon around.

The first church is Santa Maria Della Vittoria, where the statue of “The Ecstasy of Santa Teresa” delivered with an uncanny accuracy all that my imagination had conjured up while reading the book.

  • The magnificent ceiling
  • Santa Maria Della Vittoria

The other church was Santa Maria Del Popolo at the far end of Piazza Del Popolo where I located the Chigi Chapel and again, found the mystifying shapes on the coat of arms exactly as Mr. Brown had claimed them to be.

Looking for one of Robert Langdon’s clues in Piazza del Popolo… (and if you’re a fan of the books you can see it now, can’t you?)

Visiting Rome’s churches proved to be an exhilarating process for me. I never knew what to expect after a while. Each one was unique in some way. In the end, I wound up entering every single one I came across as I quickly grew addicted to the awe-inspiring atmosphere they delivered effortlessly each time, without fail.

Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Secilia
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva

I fell in love with their beautiful facades, for one. Some of them had fabulous statues standing before them, and I particularly loved the delightful elephant outside Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Still, beyond the beauty of the exterior of any given church, it was what awaited me inside that truly made my jaw fall slack.

Everywhere I looked, I found beauty and reverence. As the world around me expanded in vast, imposing spaces, I started to feel increasingly humble and small, but the experience, far from intimidating, proved surprisingly empowering.

One of many magnificent Baroque ceilings that I’ve had the pleasure to see in Rome

Lifelike statues of saints and angels, high Baroque ceilings and gigantic columns rising from the floor induce a feeling of communion with the heavens. The candle-lit shrines of serene humility offer moments of peace and an opportunity for a quiet prayer. At the main church halls, the gold-decked walls, luxurious marbles and breathtaking frescos convey a sense of grandeur. As you sit on a pew to rest for a few moments, you can’t help but think that the natural light that comes through the multitude of tall windows, might as well be the warm, blessing hand of the Divine.

The famous chains of St Peter in San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains)

Some of the churches are a must for the holy relics that they house, such as San Pietro in Vincoli where the original chains that once bound Saint Peter remain on display.

  • Michelangelo dropped his chisel on Moses’s knee accidentally…
  • Detail from the ceiling

The knowledgeable tourists among the hoards of visitors to this church will not leave until they have duly witnessed the chipped surface on the marble on Moses’s knee where, according to legend, Michelangelo accidentally dropped his chisel while working on this statue.

Santa Croce in Gerusaleme (St Cross in Jerusalem) is another must for its holy relics

Another famous church for its holy relics is Santa Croce in Jerusaleme (Saint Cross in Jerusalem) which was built to house the fragments from Jesus’s cross that Saint Helen had brought back from the Holy Land. Today, visitors will marvel there at the said pieces as well as the tiny thorns from Jesus’s thorn crown, one nail from His Cross and a finger that belonged to Saint Thomas.

Santa Maria Degli Angeli E Gli Martiri (St Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs)
  • My husband Andy before the same church

I found the peculiar facade of Santa Maria Degli Angeli E Gli Martiri utterly fascinating. Inside, I was speechless by how huge it seemed. The effect was particularly humbling. I hope the pictures help to convey some of its beauty and reverence.

San Giovanni in Laterano
Statues of the twelve apostles dominate the interior
The light streaming in rendered my visit unforgettable to this day. This is my favorite photo among the hundreds I took in Rome.

The main hall in San Giovanni in Laterano depicts twelve statues of the Apostles. The windows let in the natural light beautifully, and it made for a truly awe-inspiring visit I will never forget.

  • Vatican Museum
  • Vatican Museum
  • Deliverance of St Peter, Raphael Rooms, Vatican
  • Michelangelo’s famous ceiling fresco in the Sistine Chapel

Of course, I also visited the Vatican museums and St Peter’s. The artistic perfection involved in the whole experience makes it hard to find the right words to describe it, though. Even at the time, the feeling of awe stole my breath away, and I grew silent as my eyes caressed St Peter’s Dome, Michelangelo’s Pieta, and the frescoes in the Sistine Chapel…

  • Michelangelo’s Pieta
  • Inside St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican

I do not think that anyone who is not an art expert can ever speak about these legendary works of art effectively and I will not shame myself by making a feeble attempt. Instead, I will say that my life feels substantially more complete since my eyes rested blissfully upon these eternal treasures.

Bocca Della Verita (Mouth of the Truth)
  • Santa Maria in Cosmedin

Santa Maria in Cosmedin is a modest basilica that proved a little tricky to locate. Still, it was worth the effort as I really wanted to see the famous “Bocca Della Verita” that stands on the left wall if its portico. If you’ve seen the classic movie “Roman Holiday”, you may recall the scene where Gregory Peck used it to do a prank on his co-star, Audrey Hepburn.

Piazza del Popolo (The People’s Square) on New Year’s Day

As my visit to Rome coincided with the new year, I was able to enjoy the city’s famous piazzas beautifully illuminated and decorated for the New Year celebrations. On New Year’s Day, the vibe in Piazza del Popolo (The People’s Square) was that of an open air party with street bands and performers entertaining visitors while dozens of balloons flew in the air in the colors of the Italian flag.

Piazza Navona
  • Stalls on Piazza Navona during the holidays

Piazza Navona was particularly lively as well, attracting even more visitors than its famous fountains do from day to day, as people walked around the stalls set up there to browse through bountiful merchandise for the festive season. I quickly noticed that nearly every stall seller seemed to display figurines of witches on broomsticks in one form or another. I used a mixture of basic Italian and confident English to question a local and, as it turned out, the witches on the broomsticks were Italian versions of Santa Claus!

Befana, depicted as an old hag, rides her broom and brings Italian children gifts on the eve of Epiphany day, January 5th. To naughty kids, instead of gifts, she leaves a stick or a piece of coal. Being a good housekeeper, she often sweeps the house on her way out!

Befanas on their broomsticks are displayed everywhere in Italy in the New Year

May your houses be duly swept and your lives enriched with the most precious gifts this new year!

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A highly recommended walk around Corfu town

I picked a cloudy day last August to take a long walk around Corfu town, aiming to visit places I hadn’t been to since I was a child. Also, I intended to find two old houses where I knew my grandmother and mother had been living in as children. One is situated just behind Liston and the other is in the old quarter of Campielo. I was pleased to find all the places I was after and I’m delighted to share my experience in detail today.

During the same walk, I also visited the Patounis Soap Factory for the first time, having discovered it in Hilary Paipeti’s excellent book, Corfu Off the Map. Its owners were very hospitable and even gave my husband and me a quick tour of the place.

Before I set off on this virtual tour with you, here’s a map of the town to give you an idea of our route:

The walk I did that day (with my husband, Andy) took us via the following places of interest in this order:

Sarocco Sq. –> Garitsa Bay  –> Anemomylos (Nautilus Cafe & the windmill) –> Liston & Pentofanaro –> Agion Panton Church –> St Spyridon Church –> Campielo (Venetian Well and Ypapanti Church) –> Spilia (New Venetian Fortress, Holocaust Monument and old coach station) –> Jewish quarter & Synagogue –> back to Sarocco Sq.

Andy and I parked near Sarocco (or Saroko – originally named ‘San Rocco’ by the Venetians). It is a big shopping area built around a square. It is also an open-air bus terminal for civic buses to the north and the south. From there, we took Alexandras Avenue past the post office, until we hit the water at Garitsa Bay.

 

This is where Douglas’s Column stands. Or, as the locals call it, “I Kolona tou Dougla”.

The sea view from this spot is phenomenal on any given day, but the clouds on the sky that morning made the view simply breathtaking… Not even the ongoing roadworks and the stacks of tiles we found there didn’t spoil the magic.

 

The view on the left from there is to the Old Venetian Fortress. On the other side, the coastal road reaches down to the end of the bay at Anemomylos (windmill). The windmill is situated at the base of a pier. At Garitsa bay, the sea is dotted with sailboats of all kinds. The fabulous zoom of my Canon Powershot SX610HS even captured the famous Yacht A that day, for which I was really pleased!

A walk around Garitsa is a joy of quiet, fresh air and enchanting vistas. On our way to the windmill, we encountered many locals dipping in the water for a cooling swim.

 

Just before the windmill, we stopped at Nautilus cafe for a coffee. It came with croissants, much to our delight. I highly recommend a venture inside the cafe, if only to see if you’ll sweat at all when crossing over the threshold (I did, but I’m weird like that, and I’m not telling why. You’ll just have to find out for yourselves 😛 )

 

Anemomylos offers equally spectacular views. Just like in Garitsa, the locals keep coming and going for their daily swim.

Here, I’ll give you a tip that a local gave me. See the picture above? After visiting the pier, carry on behind the windmill along the coast and you will soon get to a bathing area that was once accessible only to the Greek king and the rest of the royal family! It is situated near Mon Repos and was recently opened by the council. It is not possible to access Mon Repos from that side, but you’ll be able to visit the spot on the beach where the Greek royals once descended from the palace to dip in the sea. The booth where they used to change into their bathing costumes still stands! I didn’t get the chance to visit it this year as I was tipped off too late. I hope to visit next time, though, and I will share photos and more info then.

From Anemomylos, we headed back to Garitsa so we could get to Liston in town. On the way, I was delighted to identify the old house in Garitsa where I used to holiday with my granny as a small child. We were staying with her daughter (my aunt Stephania) and her family, who rented a flat there at the time. It was in the tall building on the left of this photo. On the green where I stood to take the picture, there used to be swings back in the day and I remember that it was very lush and shady there.

Granny used to take me there daily while feeding me ‘kolatsio’ (a snack between breakfast and lunch). It consisted of boiled egg and bread, more often than not. Almost fifty years later, the sense of place was so strong that when I stood in the middle of the now barren land gazing out to the Old Fortress like I used to as a child, the melodic cadences of Granny’s speech almost reached my ears again. It was an emotional moment for me as I miss her every day. That morning, she felt close. So very close again.

When we reached Liston and the Pentofanaro beside it (Five Lantern Post), we turned right behind Liston and then turned left at the first corner. That’s Agion Panton street, named after the church of the same name that you soon come across on the right.

Just after the church, I came across the old edifice that Granny had pointed out to me in the past – the house where she grew up, and which my mother also knew as she used to visit her grandparents often there as a child. Her grandfather (my great-grandfather, Nikos Kopsidas from the island of Lefkas) would meet her at Pentofanaro every Sunday (when she’d arrive from the house in Campielo that I’ll show you later), then escorted her to this house for lunch.

 

Many a time over the years when Granny and I walked past the house, she’d point to the door, then up to the 5th floor to tell me this was where she ran from to St Spyridon Church whenever the town was being bombed during WWII. One fateful morning a miracle took place in the church to protect the people inside from the bombs. My granny was inside, a teenager then, and witnessed it. She loved to tell the tale, which in time I’ve also heard from other locals in the town. To hear all about it, you’re welcome to read this post that shares other miracles of St Spyridon too.

 

Going back on ourselves from Agion Panton street, we headed for the lane that runs past the back of St Spyridon’s church. From there, we hurried past the busy olive wood artifact shops to follow the sign to ‘The Venetian Well’. It was just a few seconds away from there, at the heart of the stunning old quarter of the town called Campielo with its picturesque lanes and antiquated Venetian edifices.

Next, we had to ask a local or two in order to find Ypapanti Church in the same area. My mother had told me that the house she was raised in stood right across from that church. I’d never seen either before and was getting excited as I followed the locals’ directions ambling along picturesque lanes and down old marble steps.

Finding the church proved easy enough, and it was quite close to the Venetian well.

 

I identified the house easily. My mother had mentioned there were vaults and an external staircase, as well as steps behind the front gate. I took the third picture standing at the front door of Ypapanti Church.

 

Moved by the forlorn spectacle and the realization that I was treading on the footsteps of loved ones from another era, I went on my way reduced to silence and, through the back of old hotels, quickly emerged onto this stunning square.

You may recognize the setting from one of the scenes from The Durrells. Supposedly having traveled to Athens, Lawrence Durrell was having a coffee at the square in said scene. In reality, this is the square of the Metropolitan Church of Corfu (or Mitropoli). It is the beautiful pink building in this photo.

 

By that time, Andy and I were parched from the long walk so we headed towards the old port. At the New Fortress we turned left into Spilia. This used to be the coach station of Corfu back in the 80s. I have myriads of fond memories from arriving here on the coach from Athens every summer with my sister. The moment we’d step off the ferry, we’d rush to Spilia to take our luggage off the coach and we’d be met by a sky full of starlings chirping overhead. These moments used to signal for me every time the beginning of a long blissful summer.

I hadn’t visited Spilia in years and was astounded by the change of the setting. The coach station building is now derelict, and the place where the coaches used to park side-by-side was now taken up by tables and chairs from a number of cafes. A monument of the Holocaust also stands there now, honoring the memory of the multitudes of Corfiot Jews that lost their lives under the Nazi regime. This place was apt for this awe-inspiring monument, seeing that to the left of the square, stretches out the Jewish quarter of the town that’s built around a Synanogue.

FACT: The name Spilia (cave, in Greek) is owed to a known cave in the vicinity. It is situated near the New Fortress that towers over this area.

After a much-earned stop at Spilia for ice cream, we took the lane past Marina’s Tavern (used heavily for lunch meetings by the Durrells production team, or so I heard!) to the Jewish quarter and the Synagogue. The road led us up ahead to Theotoki Street (where Hondos Center and Public are). From there, we turned right, back to Sarocco.

With Alexandras Avenue and the post office behind us, we headed up, along the right side of Sarocco square. Asking at a cafe for directions, we found the Patounis Soap Factory just a couple of doors away. I say ‘factory’ but its facade is only small with a typical shop front door so keep your eyes peeled.

This traditional family business has operated in Corfu since 1891 and is still being run today by the descendants of the founder (5th generation), who use the same methods and tools as in the olden days. To our delight, they welcomed us warmly and offered us a tour of the place, during which a lovely young lady of the Patounis family gave us a proper presentation as well.

 

Luckily for us, we caught them on a production day. The factory’s main worker (who, they said, is a bit of a gem and quite irreplaceable to them) was working hard in the background as the very interesting presentation took place.

There is a shop at the front, where we chose some products to take home before leaving. The company produces 4 different types of soap. We learned there are locals who can’t do without them, and not just for washing themselves. Depending on the type, some are good for washing dishes, others for doing the laundry. All soaps are made with pure ingredients, including natural oils. For more info on the company and its products, go HERE.

I urge you to visit the Patounis Soap Factory at first opportunity, if only to sample the truly warm hospitality of its owners. And, if you have a book to spare, ideally short reads for kids or picture books, consider donating one for the small library that operates in the factory!

I hope you have enjoyed taking this walk with me around my favorite town. I highly recommend that you try it too, as it combines the bustle of market areas and touristy lanes with the charm of quiet, forlorn streets that have the power to take you back in time. And let us not forget the ample sea air you would be getting at Anemomylos and Garitsa Bay! Even if you follow my advice to walk to there and back from Sarroco (or Liston) and leave the rest for another time, I am sure you will consider your time well spent. As for how long it takes to visit Anemomylos from town, I’d say about 30-40 minutes either side at a comfortable speed.

Have you ever heard of Spitseriko, Corfu’s secret spice mix for pasta? Centuries ago, it was made and sold only by pharmacists in Corfu town. Find out all about it IN THIS POST and where you can get it today!

 

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Nea Peramos – a picturesque little town near Athens

The seaside town of Nea Peramos is situated along the Athens-Corinth highway 36 kms west of Athens and across from the island of Salamina. It’s a heavenly little place,  especially along the seafront. Today, I’m sharing many of my own photos from my walks there, as well as some info about the town and its history.

The sea was like a sheet of glass the day I took these photos, and the atmosphere clear, which offered a good view of the Monastery of Panayia Faneromeni across the water on the island of Salamis (or Salamina).

In case you’re wondering if the infamous Battle of Salamis relates to this place, the answer is yes; to the left, the bay towards Athens and Pireas leads to an even more narrow strip of sea where the Battle of Salamis took place in 480 B.C. This is where the small and flexible vessels of the Greek fleet trapped the massive Persian ships of Xerxes. The vain Persian king was so sure he was going to defeat the Greeks that he ventured up the mountain Egaleo and set up his throne there to watch his fleet devour the Greek one – but was destined to watch his own ships burn and go under. As I sit at the seafront, I often imagine the Persians sailing by my part of the world on their way to their fateful demise, reminding myself that too much arrogance makes one susceptible to weakness and failure.

I like to start my walk around the town from the artillery camp (pyrovoliko). This is where the beach and the umbrellas of the previous photos are situated. Walking along the seaside towards the marina I always look forward to getting to my favourite stretch –  this small pier with these quaint fishing boats on the beach and in the water. A tiled walkway starts here, which leads to the open-aired ‘theatraki’ (little theatre) where small events take place in the summer time (all big ones take place at the heart of the marina a little further down).

Past the theatraki, the road leads to the square of St George Church. Carrying on the coastal walkway, we arrive at a little arcade and a line of cafes and traditional tavernas.

At the end of the tavernas you arrive at a decorative beached boat and the ‘home’ of a multitude of ducks and geese. These are a delightful recent addition to the seafront’s charm that visitors, and especially the children, love to watch.

In the devastating and deadly flash flood of November 2017 a part of the marina was claimed by dirt that came with the water from the Gerania mountains. It created a beach where the water and boats used to be – a devastating sight. Thankfully, all the restorative works were completed early in 2018 and the marina is now back to its normal, stunning, and fully functional state. On one side of it you will find all styles of yachts and pleasure boats, while on the other one there is a multitude of fishing boats.

At the end of the marina, there is another small beach with a couple more restaurants and a pier with even more fishing boats moored on it.

If you carry on walking down the beach from here, you will end up in a tiny shipyard and, ultimately, at the gate of the other military camp of the town – this one being one that trains paratroopers and navy seals. Oftentimes, all year round and in all sorts of weather, the men jump from airplanes in their parachutes, or take part in drills in the sea that involve helicopters and inflatable boats.

The latter I often get to watch during the summer from the beach while I swim and sunbathe, as strange as this sounds!

The day I took these photos it was my birthday, and the loveliest thing happened as I reached the pier  at the far end of the marina. A fisherman saw me taking photos and called me over. Then, he handed me a seahorse as a gift! Because it was a surprise from a stranger, it made for the best birthday present 🙂 The seahorse was dried up in the sunshine and I kept it as a lucky charm. You can see the fisherman in the above photos. He was mending his nets as two seals had broken them earlier that morning.

In the marina, the fishermen have stands where people can buy fresh fish. That said, it is also possible to buy fish directly from the boats. Fresh fish of the day, directly from the man who caught it in a matter of hours earlier. Doesn’t get better than this!

From the marina, I often sit on one of the benches to enjoy the view of the Monastery of Agia Faneromeni in Salamina across the water. As you can see in the photo on the right above, there is a ferry crossing (in the area of Perama) and you can get to Salamina in a matter of a few minutes. In August, during the festival of the monastery, oftentimes small passenger vessels are commissioned to carry people across for a visit straight from the marina and exactly from this spot that you can see above where the benches are.

This is also the ‘venue’ where many cultural events are held throughout the year. Theater shows, charity events, folklore dances, military band concerts etc, as well as the annual Lent Monday festivities, and the sardine festival in late August.

The town of Nea Peramos was formed and first inhabited by refugees from Peramos in Asia Minor in the 1920s (Nea Peramos means “New Peramos”). Their culture and history hold strong still; old songs and dances of Asia Minor are often performed in schools and in public events throughout the year.

The town is also known as Megalo Pefko (big pine tree). The name survives from the time when Greece was under Turkish rule (1400s-1800s). A large pine tree stood where the town is today. Travelers from Megara to Athens would walk past it to get to the city. Fearing the Kleftes (armed thieves who lived in the wild and robbed whoever used the roads) the locals in the area used the pine tree as a meeting point so they can travel to the city in large numbers for their protection.

Nea Peramos offers a multitude of delights to the visitor. Families and quiet couples, as well as whole coachfuls of schoolchildren arrive here for a day out all year round. In the summer time, Saturday nights on the marina feel like a touristy Greek island, the tavernas and cafes packed.

On sunny Sundays and big holidays all year round the establishments are often full to the last table and chair.

HOW TO GET TO NEA PERAMOS

To visit by road from Athens, take the Athinon (Kavalas) highway and follow signs to Aspropyrgos and Corinth.  Just before the toll booths at Elefsina there is an exit to Nea Peramos. Take this exit to avoid the toll cost and to take a picturesque coastal route to the town. The windy coastal road offers generous views to the bay and Salamina. It runs past Loutropyrgos, then Neraki with its clam farms and seafood stands, and ultimately leads to the artillery camp in Nea Peramos.

When you see its stony wall on your left hand side, expect to see a ‘My Market’ store on the other side of the road. Turn off the road on the first or second turn on your left and you’ll find ample parking on the seafront. From here,  a walk to the tavernas and the marina will take 5-10 minutes depending on your pace. If you prefer not to walk, then carry on the road after ‘My Market’ and keep watching your left. You will pass the church of St George and after a couple of blocks you will arrive at a small square. Turn left into the square. Where the road ends, turn left, then right, which will lead you to the marina’s ample parking area.

To ask for directions, the Greek word for the marina is ‘limani’.

If you prefer to arrive at Nea Peramos by train, you can take the suburban railway (Proastiakos) from Athens airport, the port of Pireas, and the metro stations of Larissa, Plakentias, and Neratziotissa. Note: The most convenient are the Pireas and Larissa stations as they are on a direct line to Nea Peramos. The end of the line is KIATO (its way after Corinth) so look out for the line PIREAS-KIATO when you look up timetables for Proastiakos.

There are no taxis at the station in Nea Peramos, which is out of town, and I wouldn’t recommend a walk to it for a number of reasons. There are multiple routes and you could lose your way – the roads are also deserted in places and best avoided.

Instead, I advise you to call the local taxi company in advance (an hour earlier or even half hour will do) so they wait for you at the station when you arrive. Just let them know what time you’re arriving – or if you’re already on the train they will know when it will arrive. 

From the church of St George (as mentioned and pictured earlier in this post) you can take a taxi back to the station at the end of your visit to the town.

Phone the taxi company to arrange for a pickup here:

Landline: +30 22960 44557

What’s up or mobile number: +30 6978 167500

The Greek word for ‘marina’ is ‘limani’. For ‘train’, it is ‘treno’.

Another way to reach Nea Peramos is by bus. The buses depart from Thissio in Athens and run frequently throughout the day. You’ll find them beside the Metro station of the same name. Here’s the site for bus times and contacts: http://ktelattikis.gr/en/

If you’re driving to Nea Peramos, I recommend you venture a little further too. Drive down the old highway towards Megara and visit Pahi too (takes about 15 minutes to drive there from Nea Peramos). It is a tiny village with a picturesque harbor where you can sit at a fish taverna or a cafe. Pahi is crowned by a hill that has a chapel on the top and offers spectacular views.

In the summer, I also recommend you sample the cosmopolitan beaches of Kineta (pebbly) or Psatha (sandy). Both are on toll-free roads if you use the highway that runs past the town of Nea Peramos. Kineta is closer, about 15-20 minutes by car from Nea Peramos. Psatha would be about 30-35 minutes. For any questions, or more detailed directions, just use my contact page anytime.

IMPORTANT: When searching for Nea Peramos online, make sure to specify “Nea Peramos, Attica”. Some of the refugees from Asia Minor arrived at Kavala in the north of Greece as well, creating a second Nea Peramos there!

WHERE TO EAT

For a meal in town I recommend Ef Kouzin, Kaldera, Psistiri, and Argo. I am listing them in order of the location as one walks from the church towards the marina.

All the tavernas have tables outside by the water where you can sit under umbrellas.

Just to clarify, I don’t know the owners or take commissions from any of the establishments – but I love the friendly service and the food in all of them. I recommend the kolokithokeftedes (courgette patties), the chicken souvlaki and the bifteki especially. 

‘Psistiri’ is a great choice for grilled meat.

‘Argo’ is where I make a beeline for when in the mood for pizza. They make them fresh and they are delicious. Make sure to order a starter of their keftedes too! You’ll spot ‘Argo’ easily. It’s by the decorative boat on the beach and its seating area is laid out under and around a large tree.

‘Ef Kouzin’ offers a complimentary tsipouro shot as a welcome and a yummy dip for your bread.

For a coffee, I recommend ‘Excite’ and ‘Wave’. Both are on the seafront side by side near the church of St George.

Last, in case you visit in the summer and wish to swim, there is a beach in town but personally I no longer swim in town or in any of the other beaches in the outskirts. Since the flood of 2017, a lot of mountain dirt wound up in the sea and so the beaches are nowhere near as clean as they used to be.

If I want to have a quick swim I always go to Neraki. The sea here is constantly refreshed by underwater fresh water springs. Neraki is a small town just before Nea Peramos as you drive from Athens on the Old Athens-Corinth highway. You will locate the beach easily as on the road there  are many stalls where the local mussel farmers sell mussels and many kinds of shellfish too. The beach is right where the stalls are, on a lower ground. Find one of the many stairs that take you down to sea level, and voila! You’ll be in a small but perfect beach paradise instantly. It even offers pine trees for shade. You can combine your visit with a lunch on the fish taverna there that has tables by the water.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little presentation, and that you will get to visit Nea Peramos during your next visit to Athens. You will be glad you did!

What did you think of this article? Have you ever been to Nea Peramos? What did you most enjoy there? Comment and  let me know! I’d love to hear from you.

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Nafplio, a town steeped in Greek history

Today I am delighted to present to you the historical town of Nafplio (Nafplion) in the Peloponnese.

In 1821, the Greeks declared the Greek War of Independence against the Ottoman Empire that plagued the country for 400 years. Eight years later, Nafplio became the first capital of Greece and remains to this day a town steeped in history. The old quarter, situated near the promenade, has retained both its feel and look from the 1800’s. This is largely owed to Nafplio’s antiquated buildings as well as the three Venetian forts that surround it: Bourtzi, Palamidi and ‘Its Kale’.

A statue of King Otto in Trion Navarchon square

As you discover the old quarter on foot, the monuments and statues placed everywhere are a constant reminder that you’re in a place once inhabited by war heroes, kings, and gifted leaders of the people. The thought brings chills down my spine every time, and I hope to share that feeling of awe with you today.

So come with me, on this virtual tour of the town, and let’s revel together in Nafplio’s past and present glory. I promise you will be enchanted by its beauty and, if Greek history interests you, chances are you will hear something new 🙂

Syntagma (Constitution square)

Nafplio is a highly touristy town. As well as having a multitude of visitors from other countries, Greeks, mainly Athenians, descend in droves for weekend breaks throughout the year. Their favorite pastime here, it seems, is to sit at one of the bustling cafes, either on the promenade, or at the historical Syntagma (Constitution) Square.

The view of Bourtzi from the promenade (the small lighthouse is visible on the left)

No matter where you are in the old quarter of Nafplio, you will sooner or later wind up in the promenade. Akti Miaouli Street is lined with cafes, all of them offering a picturesque view to the Venetian fort of Bourtzi that stands isolated from town in the middle of the water. Back in the day, a chain connected it to Akronafplia so that unwanted ships could not approach the city. Much later in time, Bourtzi became a prison (the war hero Kolokotronis was jailed here too), then a hotel (19230s – 1960s), and now it’s a popular point of interest for the tourists. Throughout the year, caiques ferry visitors back and forth to it from the promenade. I visited it years ago and took some wonderful pictures, which I plan to share on a separate article. When I do, I will make sure to link up to it from here.

At the end of the promenade there is a tiny lighthouse, where visitors can have a closer view of Bourtzi and the castle of Argos in the distance. On the other side, the view is just as breathtaking:

Palamidi and Akronafplia as viewed from the lighthouse

Palamidi castle and the lower hill of Akronafplia crown the old town to an enchanting effect. A visit to Akronafplia is a must, and the ascent on foot is nowhere near as laborious as the one to Palamidi. Actually, I wouldn’t recommend to brave the 999 steps to Palamidi unless you’re seriously fit! On the other hand, Akronafplia should be a peace of cake to get to on foot if you enjoy quiet, long walks.

Akronafplia offers spectacular views of the town and the beach of Arvanitia, as well as a couple of places of interest – the most interesting being the clock tower and the fort ruins. See the section ‘Suggested Walks’ later in this post for details and photos of Akronafplia.

Leaving the lighthouse, one can either head left towards the old town, or head right for a delightful walk to Arvanitia Beach (again, see ‘Suggested Walks’ later in this post for details and photos).

 

The photos in this post were all taken around New Year’s Day. The city was decorated beautifully, and a pirate ship was put up in Trion Navarchon Square (Three Admirals). Children’s events took place there every day during our stay.

 

A view of Palamidi from Kapodistrias square. Kapodistrias was the first governor of Greece

The infamous Palamidi is visible from anywhere in Nafplio. To visit it, you can either drive along 25is Martiou Street, then up the hill to its main entrance or, if you dare the exertion, go up its 999 steps that begin from the old quarter near The Land Gate (Pyli Ksiras).

A view of Palamidi castle from Fillelinon (philellenes) square on the promenade

Legend has it that the 999 steps of Palamidi used to be 1,000 but the horse of the war hero Theodoros Kolokotronis broke the 1000th with its hooves. Kolokotronis was one of the prominent war generals of the 1820s who freed Nafplio as well as the town of Tripoli.

In Kolokotronis square in Nafplio, there is a magnificent statue that depicts him on his horse pointing towards Tripoli. A similar statue stands in Stadiou street, Athens, outside the Old Parliament building (now, the National Historical Museum).

Although he was a fervent supporter of Prince Otto of Bavaria and rooted for him to become the king of Greece, when Kolokotronis was an elderly man, and after Otto had become king, he wound up being charged with treason. Even more ironically, he then wound up in a humid, tiny prison in the castle of Palamidi, the very place he once entered as a victor and liberator. The prison is a tiny space carved in the rock and is a claustrophobic sightseeing spot on offer to the visitors of the castle.

Kolokotronis is among the most revered Greek heroes. His infamous love for Greece and his commitment to freedom from Othoman rule brim over in his legendary words – you’ll find them translated into English below to the best of my ability.

“Are you Greek? What are you bowing for? Stand up! We Greeks talk even to the Gods while standing tall!”

“Greece is what we want, and it doesn’t matter if it means we will be eating stones!”

His infamous red helmet is a remnant of his service as major in Zakynthos (Zante) in the British army. The helmet and his armor are on display in the National Historical Museum (Stadiou street, Athens). For more information on the life of this great Greek, go here

 

During Venetian rule, Nafplio had the name ‘Napoli di Romania’. The Venetians had fortified the city and had built a single gate one could enter or exit through (1687). A reconstructed version of it survives today and it is called The Land Gate (Pyli Ksiras).

The Venetians had built a canal that ran past the gate and allowed small boats to come in from the sea and moor outside. The gate closed at sun down. Anyone who arrived after that, would have no choice but to spend the night outside. There was a military camp behind the gate – soldiers guarded it  and monitored who came and went.

The first king of Greece, King Otto from Bavaria, was offered the key to Nafplio in front of the Land Gate when he was only eighteen years old (in 1833).

This painting by Peter Von Hess from 1835 depicts the entry of King Otto to the city of Nafplio. The Land Gate is visible in the distance. All three timeless forts of Nafplio are also depicted.

The Land Gate was demolished around 1894 and the canal was gradually filled with soil. Today, it stands reconstructed with the original lion of St Mark on its top, but sadly without its head, wings and tail.

Before the gate stands a monument to a local hero of Nafplio, Staikos Staikopoulos, who freed the fort of Palamidi during the Greek War of Independence.

WHERE TO GO FROM THE LAND GATE?

Next to the aforementioned statue is a cafe with artificial waterfalls and a pond. Behind it there are some steps. If you go up to the road from here you can either take the steps to Palamidi (if you dare!!), or bear to the right and carry on uphill to Akronafplia (to the clock tower and the fort ruins) or, where the road divides into two, head down to Arvanitia beach. No matter what you choose, you’re in for unforgettable sea views and scenery (see ‘Suggested Walks’ later in this post for details and photos).

 

Constitution Square, mentioned earlier for its bustling cafes, is surrounded by magnificent neoclassical buildings, as well as two prominent landmarks: the Archeological museum and the old Mosque (Vouleftikon) with its beautiful dome. The latter was initially a Turkish mosque but when Greece was liberated it housed the first parliament of the newly formed state.

The mosque, which housed the first parliament of Greece, and the old clock on Akronafplia above (picture taken from the facade of the Archeological Museum)

Other museums worth visiting are the War Museum and the Koboloi (worry beads) Museum. Both are situated near Trion Navarchon Square.

 

Walking around Nafplio’s lanes is a pleasure in itself. There are many curio shops and wonderful eateries on offer.

 

The stepped street of Potamianou near St Spyridon leads to the Catholic church and Akronafplia (clock tower and fort ruins of Its Kale)

Many streets have steps and are so enchanting they simply beg for the amateur photographer to take a snap. These steps on Potamianou Street are situated a little after the infamous St. Spyridon Church (see a little later in this post for the church’s harrowing story!)

 

It may not look like much at first glance, but this particular corner (just before you get to the Land Gate from St Spyridon’s Church) gave me goosebumps. The signs on the opposite walls informed me that the house on the left, now Dias hotel, was once the home of Alexander Ypsilantis. Across the street, the one with the brown doors and windows used to be the home of Manto Mavrogenous. To think I was standing on the doorsteps of two legends of the Greek War of Independence left me glued to the spot. I just stood and marveled at the facades, reduced to silence for a while, taking it all in.

All the quaint streets on higher ground from the busy shops and eateries await to take you back in time, and the antiquated buildings, draped with bougainvillea, take your breath away. This time, I chose to stay at the heart of this district and I am so glad I did. My hotel, Byron Hotel, was the perfect choice and it consists of two old buildings: The one on higher ground (light blue windows) used to be a stately home, then converted into homes for poor families. The owner offered the information that each family would occupy only one room, and the one I stayed in was quite small (albeit uniquely quaint!). It made me very sad to imagine a whole family once had such a tiny space to themselves!

The church of St Spyridon stands opposite the part of Byron Hotel that used to be The French Embassy. After murdering Kapodistrias at the church’s entrance, Mavromichalis found refuge inside the Embassy.

The part of the hotel that stands on street level as well as the church across the street are harrowing parts of Nafplion’s history…

The church of St Spyridon is tiny yet beautiful. Plus, its doorstep has a huge historical value. Kapodistrias, the first governor of Greece, was once murdered at the threshold on his way in to attend mass by two members of a defiant clan of Mani: Konstantin Mavromichalis attacked with a gun and his son Georgios with a dagger. Konstantin was shot on the spot by a witness, and Georgios hid in the French Embassy across the street (Byron Hotel today). He later surrendered and was sent to the firing squad. For a detailed account of Kapodistrias’ assassination, go here

A plaque on the wall near the entry of St Spyridon tells the tale of Kapodistrias’s murder.

Fellow lovers of all things Corfu may recognize Kapodistrias from his statue in Corfu town (as well as from the Kapodistrias Museum in Evropouli, Corfu). Kapodistrias was born in Corfu, and he was a count. After serving  in Russia as the Foreign Minister, he came to Greece and was elected the first head of state when the country was liberated from the Ottoman Empire. Highly educated, an able diplomat and a clever man, he is renowned for his trick that got the locals in Nafplio to eat potato!

Kapodistrias brought potatoes to Greece hoping to feed the starving populace but the locals of Nafplio, who’d never heard of them before, were reluctant to try them. As a result, tons of potatoes began to rot in the stores. This is when Kapodistrias assigned men to unload the potatoes on the Nafplion docks and to guard them night and day, while ordering the men to turn a blind eye should the locals attempt to steal. In a very short time, now realizing they were missing on something that had high value, the locals raided the goods and soon there was nothing left!

As serendipity would have it, I was watching a documentary about Paris the other day, and it mentioned a French pharmacist called Parmentier who used exactly the same trick in Paris (way before the Greek incident with Kapodistrias). The Parisians even thought the potato was the work of the devil, but Parmentier’s ploy, with the use of guards, was a success.  I chuckled no end, and now think it’s quite probable that Kapodistrias, well-read as he was, may have taken a leaf from the French man’s book 😛

Living in Byron Hotel made it so easy to imagine the bygone era of the 1800’s… the decoration made sure of that, and the total energy of the place did too. Everyone among the staff was hospitable and eager to help. We loved the generous breakfast in the indoor sitting area, and especially the bookshelf! Being typical bookworms, Andy and I always chose to sit by it during breakfast (and in the evening for a gratuitous cup of tea) so we could browse at the books.

We both felt we should return in the summer, if only to sample the quaint outside sitting area too. It’s on the terrace of a derelict building next door that once housed Turkish baths.

Guests at Byron Hotel can sit out in the summer on the terrace of a derelict building that used to house Turkish baths

SUGGESTED WALKS

 

A WALK TO AKRONAFPLIA (AND ARVANITIA BEACH), STARTING FROM THE LAND GATE

In the above map, the squiggly line on the right represents the 999 steps to Palamidi. The Land Gate stands across from it (‘Gate of Land’ on this map). From there, if you walk alongside the old fortress wall on the right, around the bend the road splits into two (at Arvanitia Sq). From here you can either go left (downhill) to Arvanitia beach, or take the road right (uphill) that leads to Akronafplia (clock tower and the fort ruins of ‘Its Kale’). Arvanitia Square is very plain – just an open asphalted space. See later in this section for the easiest way to go to Arvanitia beach from there as this is not clearly shown on the map.

If you take the uphill road to Akronafplia, you are soon rewarded with spectacular sea views…

Behind you, the view to Palamidi is just as stunning – a magical place to be!

Go past the derelict hotel, and you’ll soon enter the old fortress area. The road is paved here, and your transportation back in time begins…

The fort of Akronafplia (or, Its Kale – ‘inner castle’ – as the Turks called it) has housed armies of various countries over time. Originally built by the Romans and Byzantines, it once housed the city itself. Later, Venetian, Turkish, and Greek armies used it, the Turks conquering it twice. The fort even housed Bavarian soldiers at some point; they were appointed here as the guard of King Otto. When they died during a typhoid epidemic, a cemetery was created for them in town and a beautiful Bavarian Lion was sculpted in the rock at the burial site to honor their memory.

NOTE: The lion still survives today and the old burial site is now a park (the remains of the Bavarian soldiers are now kept in the Catholic Church). To see the lion sculpture, get to 25is Martiou Street, and turn left to Mihail Iatrou Street. The Bavarian lion is past the church of Agion Panton. For pictures and more information about the lion, go here. For a map, go here (marked as ‘sleeping lion’).

As you continue your uphill climb past the fort ruins of Akronafplia, you’ll soon begin to find spots with breathtaking views to the city. This is also the case when you reach the clock tower.

The clock tower is a wonderful spot to enjoy the sunset from. The clock and its original tower were placed here during the rule of King Otto. In 1944 the German Army blasted the tower as it stood in the way of their artillery guns. The locals saved the clock from destruction and Greek poet Terzakis wrote a wonderful poem that spoke of  a day of freedom where the precious clock of the city would sound again. That day came to be in 1949 when a new tower was constructed in the same place and the old clock took pride of place upon it.

Leaving the clock behind, you soon get to a point where you can either continue downhill (bungalow roofs of a hotel are visible in that direction) or turn left. I suggest you go left. It’s a very short walk from there to the helipad where the road ends. This spot offers, in my opinion, the best views of Akronafplia:

Palamidi as seen from the helipad on the top of Akronafplia

This view of the slope covered by ‘Fragosykies’ (Opuntia ficus-indica) with the Palamidi in the background rendered me mesmerized. I hope the pictures can convey some of its beauty. The plants were laden with ripe fruit, but I doubt anyone would ever dare venturing down that perilous slope to get them! I risked just a few steps in that direction, enough to admire the view, and it left me truly breathless.

Head back down the same way you went…

NOTE: Another way to enter the fort of Its Kale (instead of starting your walk from the Land Gate) is to enter through its original gateway that survives today, complete with a Venetian lion emblem. You will find it as you go up the steps of Potamianou Street past the Catholic church (earlier in this post I included a photo of this stepped street that’s near St Spyridon Church).

If you fancy a quick descend down to the beach, go to Arvanitias Sq (see map) and find the path through the trees on the very right of the square.

Most people would be quite tired by this point (I know I was!) so I don’t recommend heading back to town along the beach past the lighthouse (see map – it’s about 1 km away). I suggest therefore that you go back to the Land Gate (a very short walk) where you can sit at a cafe to relax with a drink.

By all means, if you have the stamina to keep going, here’s the way to get to the lighthouse from the beach:  Go down to the rocks by the water’s edge and head right (you can walk easily on the flat rock surfaces but comfortable/non slippy shoes are a must). At some point you will find a few steps that will take you to a coastal road. The walk from here to the lighthouse is very picturesque – I share it with pictures in the next section.

 

A WALK TO ARVANITIA BEACH STARTING FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE

From the lighthouse, turn right (to a quiet coastal road) to get to Arvanitia beach.

Around the bend, beautiful corners will start to make you smile…

 

Just like on the top of Akronafplia, the slope here is covered with ‘fragosykies’ too (prickly pear or ‘opuntia ficus-indica’, in Latin). They were laden with fruit during my last visit.

Visitors have carved initials and dates on the plant leaves all over the place so, chances are, they will attract your attention too. If you’re not familiar with this plant, do not attempt to touch its fruit or cut it off. It’s not called a prickly pear for nothing 😛

This is quite a short walk that you can enjoy leisurely  on an even slope throughout. Before you know it you will be on the beach. It is frequented by swimmers throughout the year and you’re bound to spot at least one!

 

WHERE TO EAT IN NAFPLIO

I must start with my favorite – Liatero! It is a new restaurant that brims over with doll-like quaintness. Its pastel colors are bound to catch your eye! The added bonuses are the attentive, courteous stuff and the food that’s out of this world yummy. Try the linguine with sun-dried tomato and rocket, or the hand-made ravioli with spinach and sweet myzithra cheese from Naxos – then you’ll know what I mean! They also serve meat, fish, and seafood dishes.

To get to Liatero, leave Syntagma square past the right side of the Archeological Museum and turn right towards the promenade. You will see it in that lane – can’t miss it.

 

We enjoyed dinner in Vasilis taverna with live laiko and rebetiko music – a wonderful dining experience.

OTHER RECOMMENDED EATERIES:

VASILIS: Family taverna, traditional Greek food. Live music on some nights (Staikopoulou street)

CHRISTOFOROS: Family taverna, traditional Greek food (Staikopoulou street)

 

Sokaki cafe/restaurant. Venture inside for its impressive decorative features!

SOKAKI: (Cafe/restaurant) Salads, crepes, quiche lorraine, burgers other dishes. Great indoor decoration. To find it, leave Syntagma square from the right side of the Archeological Museum (as you head to the promenade). You will see it in front of you, standing in a corner.

ARAPAKOS: Family taverna, traditional Greek food – live music on some nights (Bouboulinas Street, on the promenade)

KAKANARAKIS: Housed in the former King Otto Stables (Vasilissis Olgas Street)

GYROKOMEIO GRILL: Souvlaki and other cheap eats. Good value for money! (Sidiras Merarheias street)

SOUVLOMAGIES: Souvlaki and traditional Greek food. Behind the Kapodistrias statue (in Kapodistrias Sq.) is a park. This is the old train station site (OSE company). On the other side of the green you will find the taverna on the left side of the road.

RECOMMENDED CAFES

Relax in the shade with the sound of running water delighting your ears in ‘Propolis’ (meaning, ‘before the city’) by the Land Gate

PROPOLIS: Coffee, tsipouro and meze. Waterfall scenery and sounds – situated by the Land Gate

CAFE STATHMOS: 25is Martiou Street, in the old train station site (OSE company)

NAPOLI DI ROMANIA: Akti Miaouli, on the promenade. Highly recommended. Word of warning: Not all the cafes in the promenade are good value for money (I had the displeasure to visit another, a stone’s throw away from this one, that was way more expensive and offered much lesser value)

XENION: At Syntagma square. Try ‘loukoumades me merenda’ (deep fried dough balls soaked in syrup and covered with hazelnut paste)

 

HOT TIPS FOR MOTORISTS

 

If you’re visiting Nafplio by car from Athens, a little diversion from your route to see the Corinth Canal (Isthmos Korinthou) is well worth your trouble! Just follow signs to ‘Isthmos’ or ‘Loutraki’.

Places of interest near Nafplio include the seaside town of Tolo and the ancient theatre (and the museum) of Epidavros (Epidaurus). If you’re traveling by car, you can drive back to Athens via Epidavros and the village of Ligourio (Lygourio), that is, if you don’t mind an old scenic route as opposed to the new highways.

Ligourio is before (and close to) the ancient theatre of Epidavros as you leave Nafplio – many visitors stop there for lunch. Plenty of fine tavernas on offer.

If you have more days to explore, the ancient sites of Mykenae and Tiryns are great choices for the archeology enthusiasts.

 

Have you visited Nafplio? Would you like to offer a tip, share a memory, or ask a question? I look forward to your comments!

NEW RELEASE! Kelly ran the Nafplio Marathon and wound up running a house. With a ghost in it! Check it out on Amazon

 

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Travel: Bruges, the stuff of fairytales

Today, I am thrilled to share my travel experience in the magical town of Bruges (Brugge) in Belgium a few years back, plus, I’m going to sprinkle some extra Hollywood fairy dust on it. If you have watched the movie In Bruges, then you are well acquainted with the hilarious camaraderie between Ken and Ray, two paid hitmen who arrive in this medieval town to await further instructions from their boss.  Bruges welcomes them shrouded in mist like a fairytale land of absolute magic. Yet, Colin Farrell who plays Ray, keeps moaning about everything from the moment he arrives. His constant winging is a brilliant act of comic relief to an otherwise thrilling tale of murder and violence. What makes his grumpiness so entertaining is the ridiculous idea that Bruges could ever be the cause of discontent.

Just an hour’s train ride away from central Brussels, Bruges greets you modestly as you exit the station, as if it were a place like any other. And then, you get to the market square (Markt) and as you raise your eyes to the misty top of the Belfort tower, you start to think that this place is perhaps not like the rest, after all.

Then you begin to look around properly, your eyes resting with admiration at the quaint buildings that line the square on the other side from the tower. Before you know it, you’re captured by the beauty of the scene, and you begin to smile as the timeless sound of horses’ hooves on cobblestones reaches your ears and carriages of a bygone era pass you by.

This is when it hits you and your eyes truly open. Everyone seems to wander around with a cheerful expression on their faces. Couples of all ages walk hand-in-hand and you decide to follow one of them, picking the one that seems to walk more confidently, guessing that they know where they’re going. Soon enough, you feel pleased with your choice because at the back of the Belfort tower where they’re headed, this is where the real magic awaits!

Every lane in that direction will sooner or later lead you to the most enchanting streets and canals. Houses are built on the very edge, walls are covered with moss or draped with ivy and every stone bridge is an invitation to cross to the other side. Andy, my husband, and I chuckled away as we visited this part as so many of these lanes and canals feature in the aforementioned movie!

In the early morning, the Belfort tower is often shrouded by mist while the rooftops below it glisten… The water is perfectly still and, as the first rays of sunshine emerge through the clouds, it begins to sparkle, the beauty of the scene taking your breath away.

It is no surprise that around Bruges, one can come across the most cheerful of tourists. Here, it is impossible not to find joy in one thing or another, such as the stunning vistas, the superb architecture, the lush greenery, or the many wonderful eateries, bars, and shops on offer.

The photos in this post were all taken during my last visit to Bruges years ago just after Christmas Day. I chose this time of year as I’d heard about the stalls and the ice rink that bring extra bustle and cheer to The Markt during the holiday season. I was well compensated for this choice!

A misty view of Bruges from the top of the Belfort tower

If you are fit enough to handle it, a visit to the Belfort (belfry) tower is a must. Beware: not for the faint-hearted or the claustrophobic.

The indoor spiral staircase seems to go up forever at no less than 366 steps. There are rooms at intermediate levels where visitors can stop to catch their breath before carrying on with their ascent. The view from the very top is spectacular and is definitely worth the trouble.

I personally never miss out on an opportunity to visit churches in historical towns and my findings in Bruges were most thrilling. First and foremost, there is The Basilica of The Holy Blood (Heilig Bloedbasiliek), a church that houses a precious holy relic: a phial that is said to contain drops of Christ’s blood. If you have watched the movie “In Bruges”, I bet you’re smirking right now! One of the most comical scenes in the movie involves Ray (Colin Farrell) begrudging Ken (Brendan Gleeson) for making him visit this church. The truth once again, is totally different. No one will fail to appreciate the beauty of this precious place of worship that was restored in Neo-Gothic style in the late 19th century. Before leaving the site, make sure to visit its hidden gem: St Basil’s chapel that is located underneath the Basilica. Although remarkably less ornate, it has a unique atmosphere and you’ll be rewarded for your time.

The Church of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk) is also a must see. Its towering spire is a key landmark of the Bruges skyline. Although the exterior was built in an austere Gothic style, the interior is classically Gothic with touches of Baroque. This church is amazing in many ways but the most fascinating thing about it is that, surprisingly enough, it houses a unique treasure of Renaissance Italy: “Madonna and Child” (1504-1505) by the legendary Michelangelo.

Walking around Bruges is a real treat for the amateur photographer as you can see in the above pictures.

 

Yet, by far, my favorite part of Bruges is Minnewater, a tree-lined lake near Minnewaterpark. Truly, it’s like entering a fairytale land. The beauty of this place continues to haunt me today. Horse carriages stop there for a short sustenance break. This is a great chance to photograph beautiful horses and the forever smiling carriage drivers, as well as the multitude of swans and ducks on the canal.

Begijnhof

Catch two birds with one stone while you’re there and visit the Begijnhof as well with its eerie ancient walls and tree-lined expanses of greenery. This beautiful enclave almost feels haunted shrouded in the morning mist. Back in the 13th century, it used to house women (béguines) who were left single or widowed by the Crusades.

Are you an art lover?

There are two major museums in the area – The Groeninge and the Memling – both of late medieval art by various artists such as Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling. There are several museums in Bruges and the truly insatiable for the arts can obtain a list at the tourist office located at The Burg (another central square close to The Markt).

 

Our fish meal in Singe D’Or (Golden Monkey) was a visual feast!

Bruges is a town of many delights and the local food and drink could not be an exception. There’s fresh seafood, traditional Belgian stews and delicious beers of many different types such as Trappist, Kriek or Lambic beer. I rather stuck happily with “Brugse Zot” which is brewed locally. The jester on its logo seems to welcome you on the menu at every bar and restaurant in town.

An order of mussels (clams) with fries is a must when in Belgium!

Staying in Bruges makes dinner time an absolute luxury. Among the local dishes I enjoyed Waterzoi (creamy fish in broth), Vlaamze Stoverij (beef stew cooked in Belgian beer), Moules Marinière e frites (steamed mussels in wine with celery and French fries) and the indispensable Chicons au Gratin (chicory leaves wrapped in ham and baked with a cheese sauce).

I highly recommend the following two restaurants:

Singe D’ Or (Golden Monkey)

I visited Singe D’ Or (Golden Monkey) in T. Zand Square for my New Year’s Eve dinner. It was reasonably priced, the ambiance was wonderful, and the seafood was fantastic!

Gran Kaffee De Passage in Dweersstraat 26 was difficult to find in the dark, but it was well worth the hassle, and you’ll do well to visit it at night too! The candlelit interior and the décor are enchanting, while the food and drink are as fantastic as can be.

 

If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll find it hard to resist temptation in Bruges! Delicious Belgian chocolates and a wide selection of waffles are available everywhere you look.

Since I mentioned my favorite eateries in Bruges, I might as well also recommend the fabulous hotel we stayed at!

Hotel Ter Brughe is situated on a quiet canal and is a five minute walk from The Markt – the quaint market square of the town, and the Belfort tower. Our room had a view to the canal and stands out in my memory for its quaintness – I must say, I loved everything about this hotel. The service was impeccable and it was beautiful everywhere you looked – including the stunning dark beams on the ceilings. 

Thinking about Bruges, one word comes predominantly to mind: Perfect. To be frank, there’s only one thing wrong with this town; the longer you stay there, the more your heart breaks when it’s time to leave it behind. It is truly difficult to adjust to this familiar, modern world afterwards. Still, as you slowly return to the rhythms and routines of your daily life, it is comforting to know that Bruges awaits you still. The fairy tale will begin again someday, the moment you return.

Have you been to Bruges? Did you travel there at a different time of year, for a specific annual event maybe? Have I missed any places of interest? Have you watched the film ‘In Bruges?’ Comment below and let us know, I’d love to hear your input 🙂

 

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Visiting Athens at Christmas

Last weekend I had a wonderful time visiting Athens. Returning to the city where I was raised is a treat throughout the year, but the Christmas lights made the travel experience truly magical. This time round I visited two different areas for the first time too, which was very exciting!

So, come! Take a walk with me around the busy streets of Athens, full of Christmas shoppers, and then join me at night too, when the Christmas lights turn the popular city corners into a magic wonderland!

After a quick check-in at our hotel, my husband and I relaxed with a coffee and a hot toast at a corner cafe in Athinas Street. It was by the town hall; Kotzia Square across the street was empty at that hour, but the strong gushes of water at its fountain and the multitude of wild pigeons around it made it a pleasure to gaze over at. Half an hour or so later, we were walking down Athinas, then round the corner at the central meat & fish market to take in the vibe of the pedestrian shopping area of Aiolou Street. This leads to Ermou Street, as you may know, which is every Athenian shopper’s paradise.

Ermou was packed, which was no surprise, especially at this time of year. Everyone seemed to be clutching shopping bags or browsing at the festive shop windows.

The famous landmark of Kapnikarea, an 11th-century Orthodox church, is situated right in the middle of Ermou Street. I loved the sight of it under the morning sunlight with a multitude of wild pigeons perching on its roof and the vibrant green bitter orange tree (neratzia) standing beside it.

As we walked up Ermou towards Syntagma (Constitution Square), we came along a rare sight – a ‘laterna’ (barrel piano). Only a handful still survive around Athens. The sight of this elegant gentleman operating it simply begged for my camera to go clicking frantically as he turned the crank and filled the crisp air with the nostalgic tones of a bygone era.

When we reached the lower part of Syntagma Square we realized our timing was off. Only a metal frame of the annual Christmas tree had been set up and the municipal workers were in the middle of putting it together. One of them, as you can see in this picture, was busy washing the covers of the street lanterns in the fountain 🙂

Note: The Christmas tree was lit up just two days after our visit. It’s very different and stylish this year and impressed the crowds that gathered to see it. You can take a look right here.

 

We felt disappointed that we weren’t going to see the Christmas tree during this visit to the city, but were compensated as soon as we went up the steps and walked over to Syntagma Square proper (and the Greek Parliament building). Just as we arrived, the guards at The Monument to the Unknown Soldier began to move. The sight of the evzones (also called tsoliades) is always a special treat!  Here’s a little taste of the perfect sync they displayed that morning:

Did you know? The foustanella (skirt of the evzon) has 400 pleats to symbolize the 400 years of slavery under the Othoman rule. Their red cap is a symbol of the blood shed by the Greeks in the Greek War of Independence in the 1820’s.

Hot tip: The evzones move around the monument like perfectly synchronized toy soldiers at half past every hour. They change over on the full hour and every Sunday at 11:00 a.m. the changing of the guards becomes a full-scale spectacle, so time your visit to Syntagma square right! The Evzones are not allowed to speak or move and can only blink to give their supervisor answers to his questions about a possible need – to ease an itch, to straighten their clothing or to wipe the sweat off their forehead, for instance. Tourists used to be allowed to stand beside them for a photo but now only children are allowed to do that. Adults stay strictly under the steps these days. The Evzones will not move from their post of their own accord, not even when their life depends on it! Back in 2001, a Molotov fell beside an evzon during a demonstration and his white-and-blue guardhouse caught fire. He didn’t bat an eyelid and only moved to save his life after receiving permission from his supervisor to do so! More info on the evzones, Greece’s pride and joy, here.

After the impressive display from the evzones (which never fails to lodge a knot in my throat!), we visited a nearby department store that sorted almost all of our Christmas shopping. By the time we finished we were ravenous so we took the Metro to our favorite area for chow 🙂 Where, I hear you say?

Well, Andy and I always wind up in Monastiraki for lunch. When it’s time for a special treat we tend to narrow our choices to either souvlaki, or fish and chips, and both are on offer there at exquisite establishments. For souvlaki we go to Bairaktaris or Savvas, for instance, but that day we both craved Guinness, mushy peas and tartar sauce 😛 So, off we went to our favorite haunt of The James Joyce Irish Pub.

We love this place, and the only thing wrong with it is it’s too far from home to enjoy more often! That’s what makes their delicious fish and chips and a pint of Guinness a memorable experience every time 😉 We didn’t go over the top, mind you, which meant we didn’t order the onion rings too, but boy, is it even better when we throw caution to the wind about our waistline! Well, next time maybe 😛

After a short rest and a shower back at the hotel, we barely had time for a cup of tea (courtesy of our generous hotel!) before heading back out, this time to enjoy the Christmas lights after nightfall.

We took the Metro to Kerameikos and made a beeline for Technopolis-Gazi. It used to be a coal gas factory back in the day, but nowadays it’s a cultural center that hosts events and exhibitions. No matter when you’re planning to visit Athens, I urge you to visit its site and see what’s on!

This month it houses The Christmas Factory, a magical wonderland for kids. Emphasis on the ‘kids’. And here, I have to do something I never do, and share a little rant. The rather pricey ticket of 5.50 euros (for Greek standards) makes sense when you’re accompanying children as they can enjoy a plethora of things. For instance, they can meet Santa, make crafts, and even go through some kind of magic tests to get a ‘wizard certificate’. So yeah, I recommend this without any qualms if you have kids in tow. If you don’t, I’d give it a miss because as an adult, you’re getting nothing for your money. Unless, of course, walking around and browsing at stalls is worth 5.50 euros in your eyes 😉

The rides may look like fun but — beware — they are not included in the ticket. For those interested to visit, here’s the site of The Christmas Factory and I suggest you book online to avoid any long queues outside the venue.

Thankfully, our good spirits were restored, and our Christmas spirit especially, when I suggested to visit Psirri. Now, I know this is silly, but I admit to have never visited Psirri before that day. In my defense, this place only became popular in the last ten years or so. Before, it was one of those shabby and grey, if not iffy, quarters of Athens not worth giving a second look. But, somehow, everyone kept banging on about it in the recent years, increasingly if I may add, so I thought it would be high time to see for myself what the fuss was all about.

Psirri is a minute away from Monastiraki square. Literally, you leave the square behind you with Ermou to your right, and enter the first lane you see in front of you across the street (like Agias Theklas or Pittaki). In under a minute you are in the vibrant heart of Psirri. The best time to visit is at nighttime as it’s bustling and magically transforms into something super-cool.

When we got there we were immediately dazzled by the lights, and overwhelmed by the nostalgic bouzouki music emanating from traditional tavernas such as the quaint ‘Orea Penteli’.

By the way, other highly recommended eateries in Psirri (from what I hear) include ‘21‘ and ‘O Mavros Gatos’.

Quaint tavernas, cafes and bars greeted us from every corner as we explored Psirri. Tiny lanes under strings of Christmas lights beckoned to us to take a closer look and we felt compelled to do it. One specific little street – Pittaki – simply took our breath away, for that is where I saw the most beautiful Christmas display of my whole life.

I read the sign and the writings on the glass window and realized to my shame I didn’t have a clue. Now, I am one of those people that never goes anywhere without preparation. To find something so awesome in my own city that had dared to go under my radar all this time seemed preposterous. What on earth is Little Kook? I asked myself. I had never heard of this place! A quick google search told me all about it. Two Greek entrepreneurs had teamed up together to make Little Kook, its strange name owed to the imaginary friend one of these cool dudes had as a child.

Little Kook serves fantastic sweets and cupcakes with a large selection of teas and coffees, but that’s not the reason why it’s hot. Those devilishly clever chaps made it infamous by decorating the hell out of it both inside and outside.

The outside of the building stood before me like Christmas incarnate, capable to charm the pants off the Christmas Grinch himself!

Only recently, the facade had been decorated in a Halloween theme, and earlier in the year it also had a circus theme according to the photos I saw on Trip Advisor. They all looked equally stunning. On the inside, there are a series of themed rooms where punters can enjoy their hot beverages and cakes. There is a ‘knights room’ and an ‘Alice in Wonderland’ room too, for instance. Among the pictures of cakes that I have seen on Trip Advisor, the Villa Hazelnut has already begun to haunt me as I am such a huge fan of praline and Ferrero Rocher.

Sadly, we were there at a popular hour and decided against joining the long queue to get in, but I’m definitely going back to venture inside and grab a piece of cake as soon as I can. Warning: Little Kook is pricey, very pricey. Something like 7 euro for a piece of cake and around 5 euro for a coffee. But if, like me, you think visiting a fairy tale wonderland is worth it, I am sure that won’t stop you 🙂

We left Psirri at around 8:00 p.m. to grab a quick bite in Monastiraki and found the square swimming with people, the odd firework shooting up to the sky every now and then. The Acropolis looked magnificent all lit up above it all. This spectacle concluded our magical, whimsical evening with sheer perfection. It made our falafel-filled arabic pittas and creamy praline croissants from Gregorys all the more divine.

The next morning we were back in Monastiraki, this time to browse through its tiny second-hand bookshops. After picking up a few gems for mere peanuts, we made a short stop in Athinas Street to buy spices from a stall outside the city’s meat & fish market. I picked up sachets of ginger, turmeric, and black caraway for 1 euro each.

Sadly, it was Sunday, otherwise I would have gone down Evripidou street  like a shot from there to buy pastourma (pastirma) from Arapian or Miran (both are historical establishments founded by Armenian refugees in the early 1020-30s), but maybe another time… Walking down Evripidou street is a unique experience on a week day, by the way. The fragrant aromas of spices are rich in the air as you browse through the merchandise on display that spills out from every facade.

Soon, it was time to head home, and we were back in our little town in under an hour. The visit to the city was short and sweet but, somehow, it was such a change from the norm that we felt really rejuvenated. When we got home, it felt like we’d been gone for days on end – a sign that we had had a good time, and that our minds were overwhelmed by beautiful new memories 🙂

Before I go, to say we loved our hotel, the Athinas Street Inn! It is a stone’s throw away from Omonia square on Athinas street and is housed in a stunning neoclassical building. I have never visited a more generous hotel! Not only were we met with open smiles and were made to feel welcome at once, but were also offered fruit as a welcome treat. Furthermore, tea/coffee making facilities plus bottled water were available to us around the clock. The breakfast was also very generous. I particularly enjoyed the cheese omelet! The room and bathroom were squeaky clean and everything smelled fresh. The room, although rather small, had many commodities including a flat TV and free wifi. They also provided disposable slippers, toiletries, and even toothbrushes. Truly, I cannot recommend this hotel highly enough 🙂

I hope this post brought back fond memories from Athens if you have visited my city before. If not, I hope I have whetted your appetite for it 😉 My city, despite its many problems, retains its original charm. It was wonderful to walk along its avenues again that are lined with imposing neoclassical buildings, and to sample anew the bustle of its pedestrian shopping streets.

If you have a fond memory to share from Athens, or for any questions, I’d love to receive your comments! Wishing you and yours, a wonderful holiday season 🙂

 

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Greek travel: Sifnos, the sparkling gem of the Aegean

Kastro, Sifnos

Pure white like a sundrenched pebble, and full of delights waiting to be found in every corner, the Cycladic island of Sifnos has the power to capture your heart and keep it forever. Then, you simply have no choice but to return again and again, retracing your steps to the same magnificent vistas, alluring beaches of fine sand, and the quaint white-washed yards that are bound to enchant you wherever you go. The same happened to me the first time I visited this island in my early twenties, and today, even though I’ve returned there several times over the years, its pull on me remains simply irresistible.

But don’t just take my word for it: walk with me today and see the beauty of Sifnos through my eyes: I promise you will be amazed, but make no mistake:  Sifnos is neither Mykonos nor Santorini. If Greek islands were women, Sifnos wouldn’t be a cosmopolitan chick, and not much of a socialite either. Sifnos would be shy and demure, yet drop dead gorgeous, an excellent cook, highly religious, and would dabble with pottery as a hobby. Hooked? Righ-y-o! Let the journey begin!

Kamares, Sifnos

As soon as the ferry docks, you’re already in love. Kamares has a ragged beauty that renders you breathless from the ferry’s deck, before you even set foot on the island. White-washed buildings perch on dark rocky soil on the side of the hill, a quaint seafront is lined with tavernas, a golden beach of fine sand stretches beyond and, above all that, an imposing mountain with a church on its very top completes the magnificent vista. The idyllic sight makes you feel small, like you have just shrunk to nothing, which is why I can never arrive at Sifnos and escape that familiar sense of awe that always catches in my throat.

For me, Kamares is the ideal place to stay on Sifnos. You can swim straight after breakfast, then have a leisurely walk around the shops. Shops, tavernas and bars will be just a stone’s throw away from your room. And even a beautiful pottery lab or two to browse through. Don’t miss the chance to visit at least one of many pottery workshops all over the island – seeing it’s an old tradition here and the artifacts are exquisite.

Rent a car or scooter, or take a bus or taxi, and explore the rest of the island from Kamares.

The island capital, Apollonia, takes its name from God Apollo and I find it suitable seeing that Apollo is the God of light and this town is simply dazzling! Apollonia is a pleasure to lose yourself in. Its whitewashed lanes and quaint edifices shine in the sunlight. The splashes of vibrant color, mainly from window shutters and flowers in the yards will find you using your camera fervently.

A short visit to the beautiful, whitewashed Monastery of Panayia Chrysopigi is a must as you drive from the capital towards the beach of Platis Yalos. Legend has it that when the Saracen pirates attempted to invade it, the Virgin Mary made a massive chunk of rock under their feet break away and plummet into the sea, taking them down with it.

A word of warning: Wandering around here in beachwear/shorts is fine but if you plan to go indoors to see the miraculous, ancient icon of the Virgin Mary, have a long skirt handy (for women) or long trousers (for men) as well as a shirt/top that covers your shoulders, otherwise you won’t be allowed entry. This is a strict rule observed in monasteries all over Greece, sometimes in churches too.

If you drive to Platis Yalos afterwards, it will start to reward you for your preference before you even get there – the stunning vista of the bay as you approach will take your breath away. Take your time to enjoy the beach. It has everything you need. Sparkling waters, fine sand, a good selection of tavernas and even more pottery on display if you feel up to it. Regarding the food: the meals you will sample in Sifnos will be exquisite no matter where you go. This is no surprise seeing that the very first famous Greek chef came from this island. His name was Tselemendes and his book, the first comprehensive cookery book that was ever published in Greece, became such a hit when it came out in the 1930s that, to this day, the word ‘tselemendes’ remains a synonym in Greek for ‘cookery book’.

Make sure to visit Kastro in the late afternoon and stay till the sunset as this can be a stunning spectacle from here. Besides, the light at this hour is ideal for taking photographs and, believe me, when you get there you’ll want to use a camera!

Kastro is a fortified cluster of ancient houses that takes you back in time and enchants you with every step you take. It was built high above the sea with walls and archways so the locals could fight off the Saracen pirates back in the day (9th century A.D.)

Make sure to scroll down to the bottom to watch a short video of me showing you around Kastro!

 

Below Kastro, at sea level, the whitewashed church of The Seven Martyrs (Epta Martyron) with its sky-blue dome is perched on the dark rock, a jewel to behold from above. A quaint stone stairway winds itself down to it, the view from the top so enchanting it always makes my heart stop.

 

Sea view from Artemonas, Sifnos at the old windmill (the site is now a tourist resort)

At a close distance From Kastro, you will find the village of Artemonas. Drive uphill to the old windmill (O Mylos tou Spitha). The view from up here is just as spectacular.

If you have several days to explore, other beautiful beaches worth visiting beside Platis Yalos are Faros and Heronissos and the one at Kastro.

I’ve already mentioned the pottery, which is a traditional profession on the island. If you visit any pottery workshops you’ll probably feel compelled to get a little souvenir. Go for a tiny quaint vase with a lid, or a proper cooking pot, if only for making the fabulous chickpea soup the Sifnos way (Revithada). It is a notorious dish in Greece, not just for being extremely tasty, but also for the unusual way in which it is cooked: The people of Sifnos make it in wood ovens, cooking the meal overnight in a ceramic pot that’s been sealed with dough around its lid. Of course, urban housewives all over Greece make it in their ovens in a similar way, baking it for about 3-4 hours only – and it does get the consistency right. Get the recipe HERE

Other than pottery, there are many other types of local produce you can buy, such as: local cheeses, sweets & pastries, organic thyme honey, capers, wine, herbs, handmade jewellery, and hand-woven blankets and rugs that are made on traditional looms. 

Sifnos is a small island, which means a stay of 3-4 days is enough to adequately explore all the places of interest mentioned here. Wander around, as far and wide as you wish, and you will be rewarded with enchanting beauty in every corner. For one, everywhere you look, the hedges glint under the sunlight thanks to a stone from the local quarries used heavily for building purposes here. It is this endearing sight of the sparkling stone that has caused me to pick the name ‘Asimi’ (silver) for the fictitious Sifnos village where I set my romance, The Amulet.

Another endearing sight around the island involves the traditional pigeon houses that are stunning to behold and can be found everywhere, sometimes standing on their own in the middle of fields. See here for more info:

http://www.wondergreece.gr/v1/en/Regions/Sifnos/Culture/Monuments_sights/2872-Pigeon_Houses

Before you go: Watch the below short video and let my hubby, Andy, and me show you around Kastro (well, down one lane mostly, but it’s a super-pretty one!)

Excuse the evident sunburn on my back – it’s owed to the long bike rides I had on the island that time sans suntan lotion! Yeah, I know. Live and learn 😛

For further travel info & hotel bookings on Sifnos, visit:

http://www.greektravel.com/sifnos/

 

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