A Lifetime of Corfu Summers

The other day, I was browsing photographs from Corfu on Facebook experiencing the familiar melting feeling inside. Nothing else causes that; over the years, despite having traveled extensively around my beautiful country, no other place can make me ache with such nostalgia. And then, I started to wonder: what is it that makes one so passionate about a certain place? Often, I hear my fellow Greeks talk about their beloved village where they were born or brought up and sometimes these places are nothing but a cluster of houses on a mountain top with a plane tree in the middle of a small square. As a visitor, you’d take half an hour tops to go around and see everything and chances are when you leave it behind, you’ll never think of it again. And yet, to the people who hail from it, it has the quaintness of Mykonos and the allure of Santorini; every square foot of soil or concrete a treasure in their eyes. So what is it that makes it so special?

The obvious answer is, it’s their love inside – the memories they hold.

And so, it is with me. From Corfu, and especially the villages of Moraitika and Messonghi, I have a multitude of memories that often flood my mind as I walk past a lane or sit on the beach or saunter along the Messonghi river – some dating back from 40 years, some involving people who are now gone, being sadly missed.

So, here I am today, a bunch of old, yellow photographs in hand, blogging about a few of those memories. To the readers of my trilogy, some may be interesting for the real-life facts behind The Ebb, and for the rest of you, perhaps they will still be of interest, simply for being a glimpse of a bygone world.

So come, walk with me down this memory lane as I unfold my passion for Corfu…

 

During my childhood, I was forever in Corfu town for a long holiday, staying in Garitsa with my aunt Stephanie (my mother’s sister) and her family or with my grandparents in a rented house. In the early 70s photograph below I’m having a bit of trouble going down the steps of St Spyridon’s church – Gran is holding my hand. Gran was always around when I was little. It’s no surprise I used to call her ‘mama’ back then. I simply refused to fall asleep unless she was holding my hand and it was difficult for her as the moment she’d withdraw her hand I’d snap my eyes open, which meant she had to do this all over again. A few years ago in Moraitika, in my presence, a local lady called Angelina, impressed by the kind way Gran always spoke of me asked her: ‘Oh Antigoni, you love your Frosso, don’t you?’ (Frosso is what people call me in Greek). Gran turned to her, smiled an angelic smile I’ll never forget and said, “Angelina mou, if you were to open my chest and look inside, you’d find a picture of my Frosso there”. My heart swells just thinking about it. Gran’s love for me has always been a blessing and a compass.

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frosso nan and lilis

Early 70s, St Spyridon’s Church, Corfu town

I still remember my very first visit to Moraitika where I met many of my great-aunts and uncles for the first time. I couldn’t have been older than ten or eleven and that’s when the love of a lifetime began. This is when my grandparents converted the old storeroom of the original Vassilakis house (the part of it Granddad inherited from his father) into a little home for themselves.

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This is a photo of me from the early 80s on the beach in Moraitika. I was about fourteen. This is when the tourism in the village began to take off. Back in the late 70s the sea was so pure that if you dipped your hand in the wet sand near the water you’d get tiny clam babies. I remember looking for them for fun after my swims around the age of 11-12, then putting them back in the sand.

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In the early 80s, summers were a blast. Other than my grandparents and sister, I was in the company of aunts, uncles, great aunts, great uncles, a bunch of cousins and local children. The lane you can see in the picture above was always hectic! I am the girl in the blue top. My sister is second from the left, the other girls are cousins. Great Uncle Stamatis is holding up a hedgehog that happened to pass by (of course, we let it go shortly later!). Gran Antigoni is having a chuckle sitting on the step outside my great-grandfather’s house that was divided among his children (now owned by his great-grandchildren). My great-grandfather’s name was Stefanos Vassilakis. He used to be the teacher and the priest of the village at the turn of the 20th century. His, is the only grave remaining today in the old cemetery by the church on the hill (in the old quarter of Moraitika).

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The 80s where paradise on earth for me as then I’d spend three-month summer holidays in Moraitika nearly every summer. There was fun to be had all day and well into the night. Swimming in the morning, long walks in the afternoon with my cousins and, often, my grandparents would take us out for a meal and dancing in one of the many restaurants who had a dance floor back then. Dancing the Syrtaki was a big thing and I loved it. Everyone had trouble getting me off the dance floor. When I was little especially, big British and German family men would sweep me up off the floor and dance with me in their arms, then buy me ice cream. It was great fun and I still remember it fondly – the ice cream especially!

People were very light-hearted back then, very open. The tourists loved to dance the Syrtaki and there was lots of cheering, lots of laughing going on. A great night out.

 

aunt Rini 1967

My beloved Great Aunt Rini Tsatsani from Messonghi, holding her first granddaughter, my cousin Rini, who was named after her as per the Greek tradition.

As a little girl, I’d often stay in Messonghi as well. This is my late Great Aunt, Rini Tsatsani. She made a cracking good bourtheto, I’ll tell you that! It burned like hell but it was so good I couldn’t stop myself. Bless her soul, she was an angel. Her son Thanassis used to run a corner coffee shop in Messonghi on the main road to Lefkimmi. Their house was just off the seafront by the river mouth. Me and my sister used to stay at Aunt Rini’s house often to spend time with our cousins Rini and Sofi. We used to go to the restaurant across from their house and dance with the tourists every night – often barefoot. The song ‘Tie a Yellow Ribbon’ was very popular back then (it was the mid-late 70s) and everyone danced to it. I remember a young British girl holding me by both hands and dancing to this with me one night. I loved this song and used to run from Aunt Rini’s yard to the restaurant to dance to this whenever the song played – which was a lot. The restaurant owner used to shoo me away but I kept coming back for more. Back then I didn’t speak a word of English, of course. When, later in life, I got to learn the language and was able to decipher the beautiful words to this song, it was like reuniting with an old friend… its nostalgia so relevant to mine for those long-lost carefree days of my childhood on the beach at Messonghi.

Back in Moraitika, the best places for Syrtaki dancing in the 80s were the Paizanos restaurant on the main road (now a petrol station), the Romantica restaurant where Lefteris used to bring out a donkey on the dance floor every night and a pizzeria where the roundabout on the way to Messonghi now is – can’t recall its name but its pizza was exquisite. Often, we’d get a takeaway from there for our annual ‘pizza night on the beach’ under the August full moon – a memory so precious it found its way into the Ebb.

Speaking of fond memories that found their way into the Ebb, here are some more facts for my readers:

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This aluminum fork with dented prongs has been indispensable on the table over the years. Often, it would be somewhere else than the drawer when you needed it to set the table. Gran and I would go looking for it. It was unimaginable for me to have a meal without it. Whenever I came to Moraitika for a holiday, Gran would hand it to me with a wide grin at lunch time.

In the other photo you can see Gran’s little kitchen. She used to make meals to die for in there.

As for the last photo above, it’s a blurry glimpse of me being the real Sofia – including the blue swimsuit and straw hat mentioned in The Ebb. The hat was a gift I was given back in 1987 by a departing British tourist, who looked and acted very much like Danny in the book. In the trilogy, love triumphs, but in real life my young heart crashed and burned, LOL

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Other people that inspired characters in the Ebb include my sister, Antigoni, who inspired Loula, as well as my cousins Olga and Spyridoula, who inspired Dora and Nana respectively. Olga passed away too early and too suddenly which was a loss to the world because she was an angel on earth, sharing laughter as much as she could and protecting her own like a lioness. Her kind, giving heart inspired me to create Dora in The Ebb, and Olga in The Necklace of Goddess Athena to honor her memory.

 

This is “Caldera” (a bar/restaurant) on the beach in Moraitika. It is the inspiration behind “Karavi” (Ship) in the Ebb. Back in the 80s it was called “Kavouria” (Crabs). Run by cousins of mine, and with an able cook in the kitchen that makes delicious homemade food, it naturally inspired the family restaurant atmosphere I wanted to create in the book. In the story it is situated next to a hotel and across from a sports pier but the restaurant is a short walk away from the hotel in real life. I refer to Delfinia Hotel which has a pier in front of it; the pier was very busy in the 80s & 90s – offering paragliding and lots of other rides. Above all else, it was that little pier that inspired The Lady of the pier series.

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From the early 80s till the early 90s my family ran a small business of room rentals. Back then, tourism in the village had reached a zenith, bringing wealth and prosperity to everyone among the locals, who made sure to build all sorts of businesses on their land. Every summer I’d return to Moraitika to find new businesses had sprouted everywhere. In the old days, as you went down the main road towards Messonghi there was nothing but fields after Paizanos restaurant (now the petrol station) and Fontana supermarket. As of the mid 80s, slowly, the roadside on either side was filled with businesses all the way to the river.

Anyone interested in the area may also be intrigued to hear that the river bridge to Messonghi didn’t exist before then. To get to Messonghi from Moraitika you’d have to turn right at the roundabout (towards Lefkimmi) all the way to Melissa (the location of the Council Office) where a narrow, cemented bridge would allow you to get to Messonghi (the bus from Corfu town could only just about cross that narrow bridge – that was always scary!). It was a long walk between the two villages that wasn’t easy to do – that’s why before the mid 80s people preferred to walk to Messonghi along the beach, then cross the river in the little row boats. Naturally, the building of the new bridge over the river brought a considerable decline to the business for these little boats at the river mouth.

Before I end this long-winded walk down memory lane, I’d like to show you a handful of photos by my Facebook friends and readers, Julie Reeves and Jayne Strange. They are just two of many lovely British friends I made on Facebook last summer, who share with me their love and passion for Moraitika and Messonghi. I hope you’ll enjoy the photos they kindly sent me to enrich this post as I didn’t have any images to post from Messonghi in the old days. Thank you ladies!

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These first two snapshots from the early 80s are by Julie Reeves. I love the first one! I can almost taste my Aunt Rini’s bourtheto just looking at it! Her house is just behind the one in the foreground. Also, I chuckled to notice there are no antennae on top of Chlomos mountain!

I remember the boat rides with nostalgia. I used to enjoy the walk along the beach from Moraitika on the way to Messonghi to visit Aunt Rini and her family before the bridge was made.

 

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These three photos are by Jayne Strange. She stayed in Messonghi Beach Hotel in the early 80s. You can see views of the river from the hotel and Jayne on the beach. It’s wonderful to catch in these a glimpse of the serenity of the river bank in the old days. Now, with the paved walkway alongside it and the bigger excursion boats moored there it seems like a different place all together.

Martaouna, the ‘pyramid-shaped mountain’ described in the Ebb.

Thankfully, some things don’t change over time. One of them is Martaouna, the lush, pyramid-shaped mountain beside Mount Chlomos. Today, it looks as endearing as in the old days – standing tall like a faithful sentinel of the serene Corfiot villages graced by its presence.

For any among you who may have fond memories of dancing the Syrtaki around Moraitika and Messonghi in the 70s and 80s, here are three of my favorite songs from back then. See if you can remember them!

And because there’s no Syrtaki without Zorba’s Dance, I felt compelled to add it here. This infamous, ageless piece of music by Mikis Theodorakis gives me goosebumps every time.

Thank you for taking the time to share these old fond memories from Corfu with me! Have you visited Corfu? What has been your experience? Are you a passionate holidaymaker in the villages of Moraitika or Messonghi? I’d love to hear anything you wish to share so please add a comment below! Also, you may want to check out my humorous post, My Corfiot Granny And a Bunch of Strange Tourists. If you’re planning a holiday in Corfu, make sure to visit my guide to Moraitika and Messonghi on this website!

 

Would you enjoy a book set in Moraitika and Messonghi? Check out The Lady of the Pier trilogy today! For book trailers and FREE excerpts, go here

Can’t wait? Visit Amazon now (kindle/paperback)
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Alternatively, order the paperbacks at your local bookstore, or ask at the library.

Thank you for your visit!

 

 

26 thoughts on “A Lifetime of Corfu Summers

  1. Wonderful memories Frosso!
    It’s amazing to think I was there at the same time as you and yet never met you (to my knowledge, anyway!).
    We were in the hectic part of Moraitika but always, as you know, ate in Crabs and made their part of the beach our meeting place!

    • Thank you for visiting my site, Pete! If you’ve been visiting lots, chances are we met many times. Next to the rooms to let, my family also ran a souvenir shop and I worked in it, chatting to British tourists all day – loved that. I am sure I’ve sold you stamps and newspapers if anything, LOL πŸ™‚ It was on the far end of Coop’s supermarket that Alekos runs, if you know him. The rooms are next door and after that there’s a cafe now – in the 80s that place was mad with business – The Crazy Horse Pub, if you recall πŸ™‚

  2. Good old days….I was more at the Scorpion disco,the River club,of course the petrol station πŸ™‚ and i used to go to crabs taverna a lot…Worked in Delfinia hotel as well…When everything was sooo different and special….Lovely memories…

    • Thank you for commenting, George! Lovely to hear you sampled Moraitika in the 80s as well. What amazing times… I remember the Scorpion! If you went to the Crabs you must remember the lovely Petros who ran it. He’s passed away and his son Christos runs it now. Petros’s wife Loula is still doing the cooking – she’s amazing πŸ™‚ You worked at Delphinia? Oh dear – hope you won’t blow the whistle on me for sneaking in for a dive in the pool, LOL. My sister and I used to chirp away in English every time a member of staff walked past the pool – we passed for tourist girls so no one ever bothered us. Come to think of it, we must have sneaked past you once or twice – so thank you for turning a blind eye – LOL πŸ™‚

    • Aw, Yvonne! I didn’t know you left Crete. I guess you now have to wait till next summer? Enjoy Xmas in England – I am sure you’re looking forward to that. Thank you for your kind words. Mwah x

  3. Lovely post, Fros. Your love for Corfu is palpable. Seeing you and your sister, reminded me how close my sister and I were back then, and how apart we are now, each one with her own family. Cherished moments. (Oh, and I can so see the time when you were trying to channel Morten Harket LOL! But even with the ’80s fashion, you look gorgeous! Especially the “emerging from pool” photo. Stunning!)

    • Lol – Maria, I have other photos where I look a lot more like Morten – leather straps all over the place πŸ™‚ Thank you for the kind words – I am glad I brought back memories from your own youth and your special time with your sister. In our hearts we’re all still there, reliving our blissful times of youth with people we love, in places we have missed; it’s wonderful whenever we can revisit all that in our minds. I was thinking about it this morning; I think that’s what paradise is. Once we let go of this earthly plane and our soul is free to wander, I think we relive all the love again, and this is where heaven lies πŸ™‚

  4. Hi just “met” you on the FB page. What wonderful photos and memories (and I agree about the photo of you emerging from the pool!)

    I will have to show my husband this (Peter, or Petros as he’s known in Moraitika) he used to go in the 1980’s and often mentions the Scorpion club. My first visit was 1999 so I’m a bit behind him. When we go, we like to visit many tavernas. Our favourites are The Village taverna (ahh that “special starter”), The Rose Garden, Mandalenas and of course, no day would be complete without lamb souvlaki at Margaritas on the beach. For some reason, I think it’s the actual law to have a glass of wine with this πŸ˜‰ Look forward to sharing more memories πŸ™‚

    • Hi Sharon, thank you so much for visiting my site πŸ™‚ I have sampled very few of the tavernas in Moraitika, because of my gran’s exquisite cooking, but I’ve heard praise for all the ones you mentioned. I highly recommend Caldera on the beach and of course, Zach’s Taverna after the bridge to Messonghi (on that road). More details on my guide to Moraitika on this site: http://effrosyniwrites.com/your-guide-to-moraitika-corfu/ All my best recommendations are there, even what boat trips to do, if you’re interested. It’s a pleasure to meet you online and I hope one day to meet you in person too πŸ™‚ xx

  5. Nice memories of old Corfu. I spent 3 months there in 1973 living in the Camp site at Kontokali. We used to eat every night at Takis Taverna in Kontokali village and dance until the early hours of the morning. Used to be run by a guy called Demitri, I believe he is still running it. During the day we used to ride all over the island on our rented mopeds.

    • Sounds like a wonderful time for you, Dave. Lucky you, having such warm memories to cherish. Hope you’ll come back to Kontokali again someday to find old friends. Thank you for commenting πŸ™‚

    • I wish it for you, Michelle, to enjoy the Moraitika experience one day, as I like to call it! Till then, please spread the word, and keep on dreaming of Greek islands. I know I do! Thank you for your visit πŸ™‚

  6. I spent my 22nd birthday on Corfu-mostly at the “Old Barrel” and the Adonis night club-then I went back for my honeymoon-and have been going as much as possible with family. It’s a place my heart truly embraces. As you know I was even inspired to write a children’s book that takes place there, The Old Fortress Dog. Thanks for sharing! πŸ™‚

    • Yes, and indeed, The Old Fortress Dog is such a delightful, charming tale. I think the best thing about it, even more so than the setting in Corfu town, is the fact the dog is narrating πŸ™‚ Thank you for stopping by, Ruth πŸ™‚

  7. My first memories of moraitika was in 1982, how it has changed it looked like a wild west town. My parents and my uncle were frequent visitors to moraitika in 1970s my dad and my uncle were named the two Sammie’s. Would love to hear from anyone who remembers themx

    • Thank you for sharing this, Jill! I am glad you experienced Moraitika when more than half of its main road was in darkness after sundown πŸ™‚ Best way to ask about the two Sammies is to post the question in the Facebook groups Moraitika Village or Corfu South. Look forward to hearing the answers there if you do πŸ™‚ Thank you so much for visiting my blog xx

  8. I visited Corfu and in-particular Moraitika twice many years ago. The Crazy Horse bar had just opened and I spent some great days and nights there. Spiros was the owner and he was a real character, one night he and George whom owned a gift shop close to the Crazy Horse stripped me to my underpants, Spiros then climbed the tree out side of the bar so that we couldn’t retaliate. After staying there for a number of hours he eventually through the keys down for the bar and asked us to lock up as he was staying up there all night! Does anybody know if Spiros is still alive, he used run the reception at a hotel across the road close to the beach too.

    • Hi Dean. My family rooms-to-let and souvenir shop were next door to the Crazy Horse Pub. I recall the entertainment there sometimes hit red on the scale as in the whole island back then. For the life of me I cannot remember if the guy who ran the pub is the same man who owned the whole building and the rooms it had in it. I will ask the locals as I don’t know if the building’s owner is still alive. He was just as crazy as most of the locals, haha. The islanders in the Ionian islands are renowned for their quaint madness πŸ™‚ Thank you for sharing the anecdote, made me chuckle, and thank you for your visit here πŸ™‚

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