Travels and weekend breaks

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A day out in the ‘Seychelles of Greece’, plus… a delicious weed!

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The “Seychelles of Greece” delivered the promise

We recently had a day trip to Lichadonissia, a small cluster of volcanic islands between the shores of Kamena Vourla and the northwest tip of the island of Evia.

To get there, we travelled by coach with a local tour operator to the spa town of Kamena Vourla, then hopped onto a taxi boat that took us to Lichadonissia in just a few minutes.

According to Greek mythology, Lichadonissia took their name from Lichas, a man connected to the myth of Hercules.

Hercules’s wife was the jealous type. Thinking he had cheated on her, she sent Lichas to give Hercules a poisonous tunic (chiton) to wear in order to take revenge on him. When Hercules put it on, he suffered terrible pains. Full of rage, he grabbed Lichas and hurled him into the sea, and as his body parts scattered when he hit the water they formed the Lichadonissia. Stroggyli, the distinctive island of the complex that has a round shape, is Lichas’s head according to the legend.

In scientific terms, the story is different, of course. Some 500,000 years ago, a volcanic eruption formed the Lichadonissia, and it is believed that Stroggyli was where the crater used to be. Stroggyli, as its name suggests, has a rounded shape. It is fully covered by vegetation and a lighthouse stands on it, placed there a few decades ago by a French company.

You can see Stroggyli and the other Lichadonissia islands in my photographs. I have included a couple that I found online which show them from high above – truly stunning images that make you want to dive straight in for a swim.

The skipper gave us a wonderful tour, bits of which I will share a little later in this artcle. I’ll just squeeze in here a cool fact that he told us:

Aidipsos (a nearby town in Evia) and Thermopylae (you may know it as the Hot Gates where Leonidas and the 300 fought the Persians) both owe their natural hot springs to the volcanic eruption at Lichadonissia.

He said that the distances from Lichadonissia to these two places are equal. This is a clear indication that it was indeed this volcanic eruption that blessed both Aidipsos and the Hot Gates with this unique therapeutic gift of nature that keeps on giving, hundreds of thousands of years later.

Here I am, trying to show you just how clear the water is in Lichadonissia and probably failing. But perhaps this video will show it more clearly. You’ll also get to hear the sounds of cicadas and the excited squeals of children that complete this idyllic scene of Greek summer bliss.

This video is super-short. Turn up the volume 🙂

The island where we spent two hours swimming and sunbathing is the biggest of the complex and it’s called Monolia. The setting was clearly volcanic, the beach strewn with large volcanic boulders, but in the middle of the bay there was this perfect small stretch of sand. There is a small beach bar and the umbrellas and deckchairs are free. We were made up!

It was just a perfect interval of two hours that ended much too soon. I would have been happy to stay there all day, just swimming and napping.

If you’re interested to go there, you could combine your visit with a stay in the spa seaside town of Kamena Vourla (about 2 hours drive from Athens). Every day, taxi boats go back and forth from there to Lichadonissia.

When we left Monolia beach, the skipper took us around Lichadonissia to show us other locations of interest. The first one was this small settlement on the island of Monolia. Just a few decades ago, some families tried to settle there. They even built a church, Agios Georgios (it’s the smaller building on the left of this photo, half-hidden under the trees).

They tried to sustain themselves in this inhospitable land without electricity or running water. They tried the best they could, including collecting rainwater, but the hardships they faced proved impossible to handle. In the end, just a few years later, they gave up and left. These hollow decrepid buildings stand like vigils on the island still, telling a silent sad story of trial and defeat.

Still, I wasn’t too sad about the people when I found out they hadn’t gone too far. Together with people from other areas of northern Evia, they formed a brand new village that flourished and still thrives today.

I’ll tell you about that village, which I also visited, in a moment. Keep on reading… I have something amazing to show you, which I discovered during the same tour…

Image credit to ERTNEWS.GR

This is Pioneer I, the fully submerged shipwreck of Lichadonissia – a German boat that was bombed during WWII.

The skipper stopped our boat right above it, and it felt eerie but enthralling too. It looked so white in parts under the crystal clear water, like time had never touched it.

The boat was made of reinforced concrete. This craftmanship for making ships was developed by the Nazis in WWII. Concrete was cheaper than iron and steel, easier to find, and ships could be built a lot faster too.

Pioneer I sunk on july 8, 1944 and lies at a depth of about 10 meters.

It is said that it carried war provisions and guns to supply the islands and also the German troops in North Africa.

Today, the shipwreck has become a magnet to tourists but also other creatures… Would you believe, this place hosts a small population of Monachus Monachus seals (aka monk seals)! The skipper pointed, and we all caught a glimpse of not just one but two seals swimming near the shipwreck. I was so pleased, as I didn’t expect this.

Go here to watch this mesmerising short video I found on Youtube.

You will see the seals, the shipwreck, and the islands from a drone, and also divers going underwater to explore the ship! I loved this video, and I think you’ll love it too. If only for the sunshine and the cute sounds of the seals!

Agios Georgios, a village of avid fishermen!

After our enthralling short cruise around Lichadonissia, we set sail to the northwest tip of Evia. A few minutes later, we entered the harbour of Agios Georgios.

This is the village that was partly founded by the people who had abandoned the small settlement I mentioned earlier. And this time, they picked a spot that guaranteed a more comfortable, prosperous life.

I noted that the village was named after St George, the same saint to whom the people had dedicated the small church at the abandoned settlement.

Agios Georgios is a thriving village today that is sustained mostly by the work of its able fishermen. They are renowned for their catch of local fish, and especially sardines. These able, busy fishermen are well networked, too. Within record times from catching the fish, it arrives to be sold in the central fish markets of Athens!

Agios Georgios is small and idyllic, and seems to be a fantastic place for a quiet beach holiday. It is situated within short distance from other wonderful destinations of Evia, like the spa town of Aidipsos, Istiaia, as well as a bunch of wonderful monasteries too.

There are small hotels on the beach, nothing huge and fancy, which was wonderful to see, and some of the local houses on the seafront are whitewashed and very quaint. I fell in love with a specific corner that looked and even smelled (some herb or flower I guess!) like the lanes at my beloved Messonghi village on Corfu. It made me homesick. I sat on a ledge in the shade to take in the atmosphere for a while and didn’t want to leave ha ha

We ate in the highly recommended taverna Antonis, a couple minutes walk from the port, that offered anything the heart could possibly desire. Meats, fish, seafood, and cooked meals too. Everything we sampled was delicious. But, before we ate, we made sure to have a little dip in the sea first, just outside the taverna.

The water looked inviting and the shingles on the shore made that irresistible sound that reels me right in. It was around 2 o’clock, very hot, and we were famished by then, so we didn’t stay long, but that swim will stay indellible in my mind forever.

It was the perfect beach for me, not just because I love beaches with shingles (the sound of seawater rushing through the shingles is one of my favourite sounds in the whole world!) but also because the water became deep quickly. We don’t often get to swim in beaches like this. It was a true gem, and if I ever get the chance to return there for a day or two I’ll go running. If only, to try some more of that fresh sardine!

Purslane is too good to give to the pigs!

An American friend told me once they call purslane ‘pigweed’ in their neck of the woods. Not sure if this is true in other parts of the States as I’ve seen pictures of other weeds online that are called pigweed too.

In any case, I expect purslane is eaten by pigs. I know chickens love it. But, if you have animals, and love to recycle your weeds by throwing it to them, do think twice! Like in the case of dandelion, that I know rabbits love to eat for example, purslane is packed with nutrients too precious to miss out on!

First off, it has the highest levels of omega-3 fatty acids of any land-based plant. The omega-3 fatty acids keep the arteries healthy and thus help prevent strokes, heart attacks, and other forms of heart disease. Purslane also contains nutrients that protect from cancer and also benefit the bones and the liver. It contains many vitamins and important minerals like calcium and magnesium. It even helps the overweight and obese to lose weight! I mean, it is a precious gift of nature that, unlike medicine and supplements, is perfectly safe, without any side effects, costs nothing, and is waiting for you, right now, in your garden!

I love to eat it raw in a salad with tomato and cucumber. For the dressing, I use salt, olive oil and a generous amount of red wine vinegar.

I cook it too, in a recipe with chicken that I partucularly enjoy all summer when the front patch of my garden is full of purslane.

As I stated earlier, I love it raw. Purslane is succulent and fresh with a wonderful texture and taste, but when cooked, it acquires a totally different tang that’s all the money!

GO HERE to see my recipe and learn more. Enjoy!

 

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The village of Nymfaio and the bear sanctuary of Arcturos

Nymfaio, Florina

I visited the village of Nymfaio during my stay over Easter in Kastoria.

This village is situated in the prefecture of Florina (Greek region of west Macedonia). You will find it on Mount Vernon (Vitsi) at an altitude of 1.350 m.

According to UNESCO, Nymfaio is one of the ten most picturesque villages of Europe!

Truly, its name, that means ‘The Land of the Nymphs’ is befitting to this enchanted place that is graced by lush forestland and precious wildlife too.

Nymfaio was a delight to my eyes as I walked through it, along its cobblestone paths. The stonework and the classy old architecture on some of the buildings were just breathtaking, and I invite you to look at my photos on Facebook and see for yourselves.

By far, the most imposing edifice was the Nikeios School, an architectural marvel that nowadays operates as a conference Hall of Thessaloniki’s Aristotelian University.

We followed the many helpful signs to the Arcturos bear sanctuary as we made our way through the village past quaint dwellings and a piazza with charming eateries and cafes. Soon, we exited the village and came upon a path that ran through a marvelous beech forest…

This is me tip-toeing in the woods while looking out for bears haha

The beauty of the beech forest was remarkable. It literally took my breath away, which meant I couldn’t run (ha ha) when I read the sign that told me I was in bear country! Let me repeat that: Wild bears were actually roaming free where I was walking, folks! The sign said I ought to keep quiet, which suited me just fine!

I mean, who wants a bear to know you’re nearby, right?

Yes. I will admit that, for a few moments, I panicked to know I had entered a place where a bear might appear at any moment.

Andy and I were taking photos back in Nymfaio as we speedily followed the guide – but we still had fallen behind the others in the coach group. Most of the people had gone well ahead of us and there were only a few, the most aged naturally, lagging way behind us, as we all made our way to the bear sanctuary. So, we were walking alone, my hubbie and I, and I didn’t like it one bit.

But then, I thought, Oh well. I never heard on TV of anyone getting attacked by a bear in this country, so my chances are good. You know?

So, I cast my trepidation aside and, after that, I thoroughly enjoyed my walk (about 15-20 minutes, as I recall) in this mesmerisingly beautiful setting.

When we reached a cabin amidst the forest that served as the office and gift store of Arcturos, I was pleased to reunite with familiar faces from the group.

Before I relay the details of my visit to the bear sanctuary, to tell you a little about Arcturos:

The name Arcturos means ‘Bear Watcher’ in ancient Greek, the name for bear being ‘Arctos’, by the way. And that is why the Arctic is called the Arctic, folks!

Arcturos is a non profit, non governmental, environmental organization (NGO) founded in 1992, focusing on the protection of wildlife fauna and natural habitat, in Greece and abroad. They have sanctuaries in Nymfaio for both bears and wolves in two different locations amidst the forestland near the village.

A guide took us into the forest, asking us to speak in whispers and to turn off the sound on our phones.

Arriving shortly later in a wooden construction with a roof and rows of seats we were invited to sit and enjoy a short presentation from the guide.

He was very pleasant, eloquent, and highly informative about the work of Arcturos and the bears themselves. Many of the facts I learned about the bears (brown bears, as the case is!) were very surprising.

One of them was that they actually never attack humans unless provoked and that they shy away from noise. He said, if you’re walking in the wild and you want to avoid brown bears, all you have to do is make some noise. The easiest thing, he said, is to play some music on your phone, and they’ll go far from you.

He didn’t say which kind of music, though. I mean, heavy metal or that cursed trap music that sounds like screeching cats would certainly do the trick. But soothing melodies like songs by Michael Bolton or Celine Dion? Now, that music may actually entice them closer to come lie down for a nap haha

“Music hath charms to soothe the savage beast”, after all 🙂

Anyway, here are some of the facts I recall from that awesome presentation:

When Arcturos is notified that a bear is being abused or in need of assistance, they collaborate with the authorities to rescue it and bring it to the bear sanctuary. This oftentimes takes place in other countries too, like Turkey or Bulgaria, where, to this day, it is still common to find a bear being abused in a circus or put in a cage outside a store or at a petrol station, in order to attract customers. So cruel, but sadly true, and it made me very sad to hear it.

But thank goodness for Arcturos. According to the presenter, there are no circuses left in Greece today that use bears, and I was relieved to hear it. I remember about 10 years ago, a circus had come in town on two different occasions, and they used animals. It was an Italian circus I will not name. I had complained to the council both times and was shocked to find they had no idea that animals in circuses were abused. The second time they assured me they wouldn’t allow another circus act with animals in town again and were, in time, proven true to their word.

To hear Arcturos had worked so hard to educate people so that animal acts in circuses have now completely been a thing of the past in my country was wonderful news to hear.

Our guide said they give the bears names in the sanctuary, and separate the males from the females. They also spay and neuter them, as the sanctuary is just a safe haven for them and only them to spend the rest of their lives in to the end. They are not to breed more bears in captivity, or to be released in the wild. The last is not a cruelty, but a mercy, because, having known slavery for most of their lives, it would be impossible for them to survive alone out there.

The staff at the sanctuary take care of their every need. They give them all the kinds of food they need, and they never go hungry. They have medical care, and especially the old bears get to live longer, because they go without nothing. In the wild, old bears cannot hunt, so die soon after they stop having the use of their eyes or their legs. An adult bear often has to cover long distances every day in search of food.

Another thing that surprised me to hear is that bears don’t hibernate as such, but rather fall into a deep sleep. Their bodies do not grow cold or rigid and their strong sense of smell remains fully alert. They will readily wake up if needed.

A bear can smell humans from far away, even while it is sleeping in the winter.

A note on the food – the people at Arcturos make sure to simulate life in the wild as much as possible, and in this sense, start to give the bears less and less food when it’s time to go into their deep sleeep, as it is the lack of food in the wild that biologically triggers this long sleep in their system.

After the presentation, we were led to the area where the bears are kept behind fences and buzzing electrical wires. Most of them were napping under the trees, and a couple approached lazily behind the fence the curious humans who looked at them with wonder. The bears seemed peaceful, and used to human presence. There was no sign of agitation, the way you often see wild animals behaving in a zoo, and I was pleased to see that.

We were told that all the bears had been rescued from zoos and cages outside stores, in Greece and abroad. Knowing they had found a safe heaven in this beautiful forest where they could stay forever, never to be alone, never caged or chained again, and with all their needs met, made my heart sing.

Before departure, I visited the gift shop, and made sure to support Arcturos with some purchases, hoping what little I spent would help them save more bears and more wolves in future. By the way, they don’t stop there, you know! They also save deer, otters, jackals, and other creatures of the wild!

I have a little bear figurine and an Arcturos mouse pad on my desk as I type this, and they remind me of the rescued bears every day.

To hear more about Arcturos and to support this wonderful cause with a purchase or a donation, please visit their website.

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Freshwater fish in Kastoria, a lunch under Meteora and natural beauty in Grevena

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Freshwater fish extravaganza!

All species seemed to be represented in the numerous tanks of the Aquarium of Kastoria, the biggest aquarium in the Balcans for this type of fish.

Among the exhibits I was pleasantly surprised to also find lobsters and even newts.

In a previous post, I shared a little about my trip to the Prespes lakes and a particularly delicious meal of trout I had on the shore of the Big Prespa. The other fish option on the menu, also fished locally, was ‘grivadi’ – a word I hadn’t heard before. I asked the waitress what it tastes like.

She said it has a very acquired taste, and thus, advised me to have the trout instead. So, I took her advice, and really enjoyed my meal. But the word ‘grivadi’ stuck in my head, and I promised myself to look it up or even attempt to find it in a store back home so I can try it some other time.

I didn’t have to wait long to find out what it is!

Among the exhibits in the Aquarium of Kastoria, during the same journey, I saw ‘grivadi’ fish swimming in a large tank! The sign told me so, and the English name mentioned on it was ‘cyprinus’. I did recognise this word, and from what I can remember, I’ve never actually eaten this fish.

My curiosity satiated, I moved on to the next tanks, and then, I found out that the Koi fish is a type of ‘grivadi’ (Cyprinus) too!

Needless to say, I was appalled.

KOI? I almost ate KOI?

I am still laughing thinking about it. For some reason, it shocked me to think people eat at the Prespes Lakes a type of fish that dwells as mere decoration in garden fountains in other parts of the world.

My mind swiftly concocted the image of a lady in a posh mansion somewhere sending her maid to the fountain in the garden with a net to go catch lunch for her and the lord.

Ha ha.

As I said, I found the notion hilarious and considered myself lucky. So glad I had the trout, folks. So glad 🙂

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Beautiful Greece…

Pleased to share today some more pictures from the coach trip of last Easter – from 2 stop overs where we enjoyed some marvelous vistas. We made the first stop for lunch at the city of Kalabaka that is crowned by the majestic Meteora.

Sadly, we had no time to visit a monastery that day and when we returned to the area on our way to Athens it was Easter Monday and the monasteries were closed to visitors.

I visited two of the most renowned monasteries of Meteora in the far past–an unforgettable experience–so I wasn’t too sad about this. Plus, I know I am bound to return another time to visit them again 🙂

I couldn’t have enough admiring (and taking pictures of) the iconic rock formations from the coach window and especially during our stop over at the restaurant Theoxenia, just out of Kalabaka. It was a great restaurant, by the way, with a wonderful buffet, where we got to enjoy gigantes and briam. Yummy.

We made another short stop that day on the way to our hotel in Kastoria. It was in the middle of nowhere in the area of Grevena where we caught people diving in for a swim in a serene river. The rock formations there were smooth and just as stunning, so reminiscent of Meteora. I had no idea Grevena is so beautiful… I was so pleasantly surprised.

Truly, Greece is gorgeous wherever you go! So much fuss is made over the islands, and rightfully so, but the mainland holds tremendous treasures that only savvy tourists know about. I’ve been travelling around Greece all my life, and I am still amazed by how diverse it is.

It offers so many different kinds of landscapes, and many are just not what the average tourist expects to find in Greece. I don’t care how biased this seems – I will say it: What an amazing country this is! The more I travel in it, the more I realize the surprises it has in store are simply inexhaustible.

Check out my travel report from the city of Kastoria and its alluring lake views!

 

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Prespes Lakes and Greek broad beans in tomato sauce (gigantes)

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The Prespes Lakes under the rain….

I wanted to visit the Prespes Lakes all my life, and thus was a little gutted to arrive with drizzling rain there last month!

Still, the vistas were so fantastic and the energy of the place so compelling I soon forgot it was raining as I walked about carefree, sans unbrella…

At the Small Prespa Lake, we took the bridge to the tiny isle of St Achilleios (Acchiles). The air was fresh and full of birdsong. The isle was lush all over as you can see in the photographs.

In the short time we had we managed to visit the remains of the Basilica of St Acchileios dating from the 10th century.

A short ride on the coach later, we arrived at the fishing village of Psarades on the shore of the Big Prespa Lake where we enjoyed trout on the BBQ and a plate of locally farmed broad beans (gigantes) in a rich tomato sauce.

Above, you can see the table where we sat. I was instantly drawn to this corner as I loved the painting of the Big Prespa Lake. And that says a lot because on the other side of the seating area there was a woodstove burning, which would have been nice, seeing we arrived to eat rather damp all over haha

Walking around the village after our meal didn’t take long as it is tiny, and it looked rather forlorn that day – hardly any locals or tourists about. Water buffaloes and rare species of dwarf cows were grazing by the lake. It all made for a thrilling sight. All the while, it didn’t stop drizzling with rain, and it was pretty chilly too, but nothing could mar the experience for me.

The Prespa Lakes are on the Greek border to the countries of Albania and North Macedonia. Greece shares the Small Prespa with Albania, and the Big Prespa with Albania and North Madedonia.

Delicious Greek ‘giants’

‘Gigantes’ means giants, and this is the cute ‘ name the Greeks use for broad beans.

Coming back home from the Prespes Lakes, I brought a big pack of gigantes with me, which I’d bought from a local producer on the shore of the Small Prespa. It doesn’t get better than that, I guess, to get the real deal, as the Prespes beans are famous in Greece.

The taste was superb, just like the meal tasted during that taverna meal I mentioned earlier. I included celery (the thick variety, not the slim Greek one) and it gave the meal the exact taste I recall from that taverna meal. GO HERE to get the recipe. It includes mentions to two different variations you can try! Each uses different ingredients that provide a totally new experience every time.

 

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Beautiful Kastoria and Granny’s pasta sauce with spetseriko

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Happy people, happy waterfowl

I am telling you, I had the most serene walks in Kastoria. Sitting on a bench and gazing out at the stunning landscape became my number 1 favourite pastime during Greek Easter, earlier this month.

And I envied the locals so much, for having these alluring paths to walk on, at the edge of Lake Orestiada. The lakeside front is 15-kilometre-long!

Out of town, the lakeside path is often pedestrian, beckoning as an earthly paradise to nature lovers. Plane trees everywhere, the bird song rich, and the ambiance is magical.

Kastoria is a town in west Macedonia (northern mainland of Greece) and it is famous for its fur merchants. It is a town of vast history. Firstly inhabited in neolithic times, it was first conquered by the Romans, then the Byzantines, the Bulgarians, the Normans, the Franks, the Serbs, and the Turks, before finally becoming part of Greece in the beginning of the 20th century.

The old quarter is called Doltso and it is built on a hill. Its lanes with many antiquated estate mansions and old buildings with black wooden beams made it a pleasure to explore.

Sadly, our tour saw us out of town in the mornings and back to Kastoria in the late afternoons every day at a time when the folklore museum and other places of interest were closed for the day. But we did manage to visit the town’s aquarium, which is the largest freshwater aquarium in the Balcans. It exhibits fish and other organisms that are indigenous, endemic or foreign to Greece, living in lakes and rivers.

I will post photographs from the aquarium and the tiny yet quaint and historical Monastery of Panayia Mavriotissa another day. Both are situated on the lake.

We missed the chance to visit the ‘Dragon’s Cave’, a cave by the lake with rich stalactite and stalagmite decoration, underground lakes, halls, corridors and tunnels.

Oh well, I am not all that gutted, though, since we managed to visit the neolithic settlement by the lake that depicts life in the area some 7,500 years ago! It was enthralling to visit the little huts, some of them on stilts over water. Inside, there were human figures made of clay and replicas of everyday items that have been found at the excavation site nearby.

Enchanting and educational stuff. Go here to check out my post about this amazing place!

Just like Granny Antigoni used to make…

I’m still amazed. Last weekend, I managed to recreate my Corfiot granny’s pastitsada! It tasted just the same with Spetseriko and a couple extra spices. Pastitsada is a traditional Corfiot dish made with pasta, beef and carrots in a tomato sauce.

I went for spaghetti instead of the traditional pasta number 2, though. A personal preference, and it was just as yummy. I’ll have to make it again with the proper pasta and blog the recipe for you, guys. Watch this space! And, see below for more info on the secret spice mix from Corfu!

Here’s something you may not know…

There is a secret spice mix dating from Corfu’s Venetian occupation days, and it is called Spetseriko! It is delicious and aromatic in tomato sauces, such as in pastitsada, and also in pastichio.

This secret spice mix used to be made by the pharmacists on the island, and there is one pharmacy in town today that still makes it from an original recipe!

GO HERE to read my post about Spetseriko. It contains a recipe to make it at home too. And, if you plan to visit Corfu town, you’ll get to hear which pharmacy you need to go to to get your own bag of genuine Spetseriko!

 

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Pozar thermal baths and sleeping bears

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Pozar thermal baths – an unforgettable experience

You know that feeling when you get in the bath after a long tiring day? When your muscles are tight and every sinew in your body is crying for mercy? And then, as the warm water envelopes you, you begin to relax, feeling as if you’re melting away, every cell in your body emitting a thank you?

Well…. Multiply that by a thousand, and you have an idea of what it feels like to dip into the pools of Pozar! I visited this blessed place on the slopes of Mt Kaimaktsalan (Voras) in the region of Macedonia, Greece last December. It was about 13 degrees C as I recall, and we were wearing jackets. I was worried about how cold I was going to get walking in a swimswuit from the changing cubicles to the natural pool, but I was determined not to miss the chance. And, boy, am I glad for my choice!

Small mercy number 1: No wind was blowing.

Small mercy number 2: The changing cubicles were a stone’s throw away from the steps that led down to the pool. So, I took the plunge! (literally)

Here is a super-short video of the pool my husband and I dippped ourselves in.

Allluring, huh? You can see why I had to brave the cold! And I was so relaxed and warm when I got out that I felt really comfortable, as if it was a summer’s day, as I walked back to the cubicle to change. Therefore, if someone like me can do it, someone who gets chilly at the slightest gust of wind, surely you can too! No matter which part of the year you visit.

The word ‘Pozar’ is Slavic and it means ‘fire’ and ‘burning coal’.

No surprise there! The water in Pozar is naturally warm at a steady temperature of 37 degrees C. You can see the steam that kept on rising in some of the pictures, especially the one taken from right above the waterfall. The recommendation was to stay in the pool for 20 minutes and not longer. We did just that and it felt more than enough. Our skin felt soft for days after!

Pozar thermal baths are located in the area of Aridaia in the region of Pella, 32 kms west of Edessa. You can easily combine it with a visit to Edessa’s waterfall park, which I shared about previously. Edessa is a wonderful city to stay in, or, to visit Pozar, you can also seek accomodation in the small village of Agios Athanasios (located 40 kms from Pozar).

There are massage therapists on site as well, if that’s of interest. There are also derelict buildings of lodgings of long ago on the opposite bank accessible by a bridge. They made me sad to gaze upon. Pity they were left to rot away like this amidst the forest, but I guess they added to the charm of the place, somehow.

Pozar thermal baths offer both outdoor pools and indoor ones. The latter are charming, some stunning to look at, decked in beautiful tiling or stone. One needs to book beforehand to use the indoor pools. There is a huge artificial outdoor swimming pool on the grounds, but it was closed for maintenance during my visit. The small outdoor natural pool we chose was just perfect for us.

Apparently, some people dare the impossible over there: To jump out of the warm pool you can see in the photo and stand under the cold water of the waterfall to the left and then back into the warm pool! It is supposed to be invigorating to the body, much like the sauna/snow combo of the Scandinavians, but beware that you must be strong to do this. It can be taxing for the heart, and I even saw warning signs onsite that said this wasn’t for everyone!

Visit the website of Pozar thermal baths for photographs of the facilities and more information.

SEE THE PHOTOS

Greek Easter was on May 5 this year and I chose to visit bears of all things…

So my sister phones me on Easter day around midday. ‘Chronia polla!’ she says.

‘Christos Anesti!’ Whispering, I respond, ‘Chronia polla, all the best.’

‘What is it?’ she replies. ‘Were you sleeping?’

‘Nooo…’ I reply. ‘I just don’ t want to disturb the bears…’

What an impossible thing to say haha 

I laughed like a drain once I got out of earshot of the napping bears at Arcturos’s bear sanctuary in Nymfaio, Florina. 

GO HERE TO SEE MY DETAILED POST ABOUT NYMFAIO AND THE BEAR SANCTUARY

 

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The waterfalls of Edessa, a ‘pink sea’, and Apostle Paul’s podium. A Greek travel post

The Waterfalls of Edessa

Today, I thought I’d share some of my photos from Edessa’s world famous Waterfalls Park. Edessa is the capital of Pella in northern mainland Greece (region of Macedonia).

The waters of Edessa’s waterfalls used to power factories in town in the early 20th century, like the Kanavourgio rope factory and the Old Hemp Factory. Both these are standing derelict today, ghostly reminders of their former industrial glory.

But, the waters still run today with the same incredible force!

Watch this super short video of the waters running and crank up the volume!

The waters originate from the snow on Kaimaktsalan mountain situated 35 kms from the town of Edessa.

The waterfalls park is vast – 100,000 square meters. Its biggest waterfall, Karanos, is 70 meters in height – the biggest in Greece. I can attest to the fact it is very impressive, especially as the visitors can stand up close, right behind the water curtain! Things can get a little misty under there, I tell you. I visited in December, but gladly it was safe to stand there without actually getting wet LOL

There is a cave near that spot where you can purchase a ticket (I believe around 2 euros) to have a guided little tour inside. We gave that a miss as we had limited time to spend and preferred to enjoy the beautiful nature as much as possible.

Another great sightseeing spot in the waterfall park is the Open Air Water Museum (Industrial Museum with watermills – factories).

There is also an aquarium (with fish and reptiles) in the grounds, but it was closed during our visit – we were there in the late afternoon, close to nightfall, but I suspect it’s not open in the winter anyway.

So, basically, if you’re planning to visit, plan to stay for ample time, and if possible, visit in the summer to take full advantage of the various sights on offer.

Go here to watch a short video of the WaterFalls Park taken with a drone. It’s breathtaking!

Believe it or not, this space of enthralling natural beauty used to be completely unknown to people before WWII – just a vast space of unexplored vegetation, out of bounds to everyone.

It seems we have the Nazis, of all people, to thank for helping to make this place accessible to visitors today!

The Germans were the first to realize there was a touristic potential to this place. So, work began to make the place accesible and tidy. But not all workers were eager… Each morning, a Nazi sergeant called Fritz used to block all the ways leading to the square, then took away the identity cards of the men who asked for access telling them if they wanted to get them back they had to give a hand at the worksite at the waterfalls!

In the summer of 1942, two swimming pools, several paths, and the first flower beds were available for people to enjoy.

After the end of the war, the place was given to the municipality of Edessa and more work was done to the gardens. When the civil war broke out the waterfalls were forgotten anew, except for the farmers of “Loggos” district, who enjoyed having their bath there…

In 1953, the construction of the restaurant Pisines (Pools) was finished on the site, allowing the locals to gather there to celebrate with a lot of dancing!

The city of Edessa is fun and stunning, waters everywhere, and it is also impressive to behold as you approach town on the country road. It is set high on a precipice, its buildings playing hide and seek behind the dense trees as one approaches. I fell in love with it at first sight. it is a bustling city with an incredible vibe. This was a short visit, and we went around only a little, and only after nightfall. Sadly, we missed a chance to visit the stunning old quarter of Varosi, but surely next time.

Next to the central market, in the centre of Edessa, you will find the Small Waterfalls – another beautiful spot of running waters to enjoy during your coffee break or after a spot of shopping.

This town has bridges all over the place and the sound of running water is never far from your ears as you explore it. A truly, blessed place…

GO HERE TO SEE ALL MY PHOTOS FROM EDESSA

Image credit to discoververia.gr

The pink sea of Veria

When we went to Edessa we also made a stopover in the town of Veria for lunch and a walk about. We stopped at a spot called Elia (Olive Tree) that consisted of a square with a couple of cafes/eateries, beautiful neoclassical buildings, a small green and a ‘balcony’ with a view to beautiful plains.

Veria produces many fruits in these plains;  mainly apricots, but also cherries, kiwis et al.

We visited out of season in December, but as we drove past the plains the beautiful purplish pink tint of the apricot trees still kept catching my eye.

In March, the beauty of the plains catapults to new heights. The plains transform into a sea of pink, and the sweet smell of the apricot blooms is in the wind. Leaving Veria with the best impressions, even without having witnessed this miracle of nature, made me promise to myself to return in the spring the second time round.

GO HERE TO SEE THE PHOTOS

The Bema (Podium) of Paul the Apostle in Veria has been preserved well by its people

Veria was hailed ‘Little Jerusalem’ in Byzantine times because of its association with Apostle Paul and over time 70 churches were constructed there, 51 of which still stand today.

Apostle Paul visited Veria at least twice during the period between 50 AD and 57 AD to spread the good news about Jesus Christ. The people of Veria and the Jews welcomed him enthusiastically each time.

Today, the steps are preserved and a beautiful monument has been built there to honour the place where the Apostle once stood to preach. It attracts multitudes of visitors from all over the world.

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Beautiful nature at Litochoro Pierrias and a monastery on Mt Olympus

The monastery of St Dionysios of Olympus is situated in the perfecture of Pierria, 3 km from the town of Lithochoro.

I had the pleasure to visit the monastery twice in the recent months (as well as the nearby town of Litochoro, which I’m also sharing about today).

I first visited last December when I traveled to Edessa and Pozar baths (I will be sharing about those amazing places soon, by the way!) and my second visit was during my trip to Salonica (Thessaloniki) last January.

The monastery was very quiet, and I only got to see one monk in the whole place! I later discovered that there is a restricted area where the monks live and work, which is not accessible to visitors. So, I guess they were all busy at the time! Apparently, they have many talents. They create icons, woodcraft, incense, candles and also pass the time gardening, binding books, tending to bees and even making cheese!

It is no surprise, therefore, that their gift shop, situated near the entrance, is one of the most interesting I have ever seen in a monastery, offering a wealth of different kinds of merchandise, including incense in various heavenly aromas, dried herbs, and, yes, cheeses too, and other delicatessen items. I came out carring bags of various lovely things, and I only wish they had an e-shop so I can restock 🙂

There were various buildings to admire as we walked around, with the operational church being by far the most prominent structure. The decoration inside, and the large icons of Jesus and the Virgin Mary before the templon were impressive.

In a small chapel inside the church on the right side, there is also a big icon of St Dionysios.

The monastery had beautiful greenery and pots with vibrant flowers, making it a pleasure to photograph. We ambled here and there, listening to birdsong, being surrounded by forestland. The only people were those in our coach group. Both times, the experience was the same, and just as enchanting.

Going up some steps, we visited the museum that is housed in a small building, manned by one monk, who sat near the entrance at a desk, screens before him, surveilling all the different spaces via cameras. It was an odd sight, and quite a striking contrast, to see a monk handling the high technology of today, but that was soon forgotten, once I ventured further inside where I got to marvel at the religious artifacts and the relics on display.

Truly, never before, had I seen so many housed in one place.

The artifacts were intricate, so beautiful and impressive, and the holy relics were more than I could imagine I would ever see – all belonging to various saints and even apostles.

It was forbidden to take photographs in there but you can see some of the artifacts on this page of the monastery’s website.

The monastery was founded in 1950 after the destruction of the original monastery by the Germans in 1943 at a different location, in the gorge of Enipeas river. The ruins still stand today. St Dionysios had built the original fortified monastery in 1542.

During his life, the saint lived in many different caves on Mt Olympus. His holy relic lies today in a grave inside one of those caves, and there is also a spring with holy water. According to the monastery, to this date, the miracles the saint performs continue as he answers the prayers of the faithful…

GO HERE to see all my photos from the monastery.

Litochoro was stunning… Beauty everywhere…

Hard to believe that a town so near Mt Olympus is also near the sea!

I never got to see its coast, but during my visits there I had a good wander around and encountered the beauty of nature in all its glory. Majestic snowcapped mountain peaks, tall forest trees, a river, and even a large reservoir awaited me there, all gleaming under the glorious sunlight.

At the main car park where our coach left us, there is a paved path that leads to lower ground.

It led us to Enipeas river, after just a couple minutes’ walk. At its bank, visitors can enjoy food and drink at two quaint cafes as well as a restaurant run by a coop of the local women of the town.

It was a beautiful place to walk around in and enjoy the beauty of nature.

But that wasn’t all. We also found a stunning park next to the town’s maritime museum, just a stone’s throw away from the car park.

It had a large body of water that made it really special. Apparently, this vast reservoir is not for swimming, hence it’s fenced all around. The water is used for irrigation purposes.

Edged by forest trees, the park was the perfect place to sit on a bench after a slap up meal, listen to the chirping birds and gaze at Mt Olympus. Its peaks were snowcapped, a marvel to behold.

I felt really envious of the locals. City folk may feel blessed enough if they can sit at a park in their town with a fountain nearby, gazing at a few trees. The people of Litochoro have a large reservoir at the center of this massive green space, and the majestic Mt Olympus, no less, to rest their eyes upon. Truly fortunate folk!

Wow, right?

As I stated earlier, I visited Litochoro twice in the recent months. I plan to return to Macedonia again and again (many places I’ve always wanted to see over there!) and as Litochoro offers a well-timed stopover for lunch on the way back to Athens I look forward to stopping by there again, half a chance I get.

If you happen to be in the area, do not miss the chance to discover it too. The people are hospitable, and the food on offer at the restaurants makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

We went to the restaurant ‘Hairi’ on the roundabout the first time (you’ll see it all decorated for the holidays in the photographs). It’s at the end of the uphill road that you get to if you turn right from the car park. A short walk away of less than 5 minutes. Well, it depends on how hungry you are, I guess, LOL

The second time, we went to the restaurant ‘Ta Mezedakia’ that is situated right at the edge of the car park. It’s very popular, so if you want to go there, don’t go wandering first and leave it for later. As we sat at its tiny balcony, there were people standing on the other side of the railing on the street, waiting for us to finish so they could come sit. There is a large seating area inside and it was all packed!

I combined both visits into one set of photographs, and I included ones of both the restaurant buildings. This way you can go straight to them if you’re ever there. Either of them will satisfy you if you have a serious case of the munchies like we did LOL

GO HERE to see all my photos from Litochoro.

 

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Hungry pelicans and shy flamingos in Lake Kerkini, Serres

I visited Kerkini Lake during my stay in Salonica last month.

This beautiful lake with the sparkling still waters is artificial – made in 1932 when a dam was constructed on Strymon River.

Situated in the prefecture of Serres, the lake is near the famous Fort Roupel, and the border to Bulgaria.

It is 17km long, 5km wide, and quite shallow – about 35m deep.

The lake is under the protection of Natura 2000. This beautiful natural habitat is the home of wolves, wild boars, wild cats, jackals, ferrets, and other feral creatures. The lake is graced by many Great White Pelicans (Pelecanus Onocrotalus), Dalmatian Pelicans (Pelecanus Crispus) and a few thousand flamingos too!

Water buffaloes are farmed in the area, making Kerkini a famous location for sampling high quality buffalo meat products.

We got the first glimpse of the lake from the coach about 1 hour after leaving Salonica. Once we drove past the dam, we began to travel along a country road beside the lake to get to the boats our guide had booked for us beforehand.

As we cruised beside the lake, our guide informed us about the water buffaloes being farmed there. A few moments later, a lady on the coach suddenly exclaimed: ‘There they are! I can see them!’ which was followed quickly by the guide saying, as tactfully as she could, ‘Erm… no, actually, these are cows!’

The whole coach erupted in loud guffaws, which set us off perfectly on this wonderful fun adventure on the lake in the company of magnificent winged creatures…

They look serene enough but try and feed them…

We had a lot of fun on the boat as the captain had brought a bag of fish to throw to the pelicans. The ploy worked. They rushed towards the boat and followed us throughout our ride. Two of the passengers were a little boy and a little girl, and they had a go throwing the fish to the pelicans too. Their squeals of joy and their excited faces only enhanced the fun experience.

Natually, the pelicans were fighting for every fish, watching intently, it seemed, as each fish drew an invisible arc in the air before landing in their midst. Most of the time, they would scrap amongst them. Sometimes, they nipped at each other or even chased the pelican that got the fish into their mouth.

I have posted a couple videos on Facebook, all of them short, to share with you the fun we had feeding the pelicans, but most of all to show you their smooth gliding, and the even more mesmerising smooth landings they performed on the water. True poetry in motion!

Do take a look: Video1 Video2 Video3

It was all very entertaining, and the pelicans were evidently very accustomed to the company of people. I was amazed by how daring they seemed to be, floating peacefully, so close to us. At some point, one of the pelicans was floating right behind the side of the boat where I sat – just a sheet of wood between us, and it hit me how amazing it was that I should be so close, gazing into the face of such a majestic winged creature. I perceived it as a great honor and these moments will forever hold a dear place in my heart.

I often see cormorans in my town of Nea Peramos in Attica, seeing that the Natura 2000 area of Vourkari (a marshland) is close to it. The cormorans that live there often fly over to town. I’ve seen them perched on top of the fishing boats in our marina many times, and they sometimes swim close to me in the sea in the summer. But I’d never seen a non-domesticated bird so close to me before. As I said, it was an exhilarating first experience for me.

I wish I could say the same for the flamingos, but no such luck…

According to the local boat captain, who was amazing and really informative, there were a few thousand flamingos in the lake, but they were very timid. Indeed, we tried several times to move closer to them to take a better look and every time they moved further away.

In the end, we gave up and just killed the engine to gaze longingly at them from a distance.

It was fun, mind you, watching them flee. They seemed to be running on water on their spindly legs, something that set the little kids squealing, and all the passengers, in general, marvelling at the sight.

More new experiences awaited us at the restaurant nearby…

The restaurant, Elodia, was decked in beautiful wood and stone and the whole setting with the big property around it made it feel like a ranch-type-of-place, which was enchanting. The property featured a body of water and an enclosure where they kept deer too.

In the above picture, please don’t get fooled! This is not a real water buffalo. Not a cow either haha 🙂

Still, there are living creatures in the water. I’ll get back to that in a minute…

I wanted first to report on the buffalo meat, which both my husband and I tried for the first time.

I had buffalo meatballs in tomato sauce with linguini pasta and Andy went for buffalo bifteki with rice and fries. And he was glad he chose that because he originally wanted a steak, but the waiter warned us buffalo meat is a little harder than pork or beef. Andy was glad he didn’t go for the steak as he found the bifteki a little too chewy for his liking as it was.

I found my meat soft enough, since it was cooked in tomato sauce, and even though I can appreciate it was tasty, I wasn’t too enamoured with it. It had too rich a taste for my liking, just like the deer meat I tried many years ago. In a way, I am glad, as if I’d loved it I’d have had a hard time finding it at the bucher’s in Nea Peramos 🙂

Apparently, buffalo meat is a lot richer in iron and protein than beef. It is also very healthy as it is low in calories and fat. So, if you haven’t tried it, it’s well worth a go.

Back to the creature dwelling in the water outside the restaurant…

It wasn’t just the pelicans, it seemed, that were accustomed to humans in Kerkini. As soon as we approached the water buffalo sculpture, we saw two heads bobbing in the water. One of the creatures rushed to come out and go behind the fence where a family had just arrived.

I didn’t even know the area of Kerkini had otters! It was a delightful surprise.

I left that place feeling absolutely chuffed and well connected to nature.

Our coffee stop in Serres offered one last surprise encounter…

On our way back to Salonica we made a little detour for a stop in the city of Serres for a coffee.

We were taken to a beautiful festive square that was decorated beautifully (it was the holiday season).

Andy and I found the last vacant table at a seemingly popular cafe on the square as it was brimming with locals.

We had a little time to kill before we had to get back on the coach so we walked around the large square taking in the decorations. Suddenly, to our surprise, we saw a squad of soldiers marching towards us in formation!

As it turned out, it was time to lower the Greek flag and to put it away for the night. A local military camp, it seemed, had taken it upon themselves to raise and lower the flag daily.

It was moving to stand near the squad and listen to the soldiers sing the national anthem.

I must say, I returned to Salonica that evening with a mind of beautiful images, along with some extra patriotic pride in my chest LOL! All the more exciting for me as the last bit wasn’t even remotely expected!

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The stunning monastery of Hosios Loukas and bacon pastry pinwheels

From the left: Virgin Mary church and Katholikon church

Hosios Loukas, a spectacular Byzantine monastery

It was a sunny autumn day when I discovered, much to my delight, this secret gem of Greece… Now, because of my strong faith, I have visited many monasteries in my life, but I had never heard of Hosios Loukas.

I consider it very fortuitous, therefore, that my coach journey to Arachova late last year included a stop at this monastery.

Built on the western slope of Mt Elikon with a valley teemed with olive trees stretching out before it, this 10th century A.D. Byzantine monastery is more than that. It is, rather, a fortified complex of not one but three churches, each one built at a different time in a different style.

The combination of all three provide visitors with an awe-inspiring, highly diverse visual experience.

‘Katholikon’ was a marvel to my eyes

The main church, ‘Katholikon’, is dedicated to Hosios Loukas. ‘Hosios’ (or the more phonetically accurate, ‘Ossios’) means ‘Devoted to God’ and it is a title that the Greek Orthodox Church has given over time to many devoted monks and nuns.

Hosios Loukas was a hermit called Loukas Stereiotis, and he lived in the area since 945 A.D. until his death in 953 A.D. He founded the monastery and was alive when the church of the Virgin Mary was built in the middle of the 10th century. The larger church of Katholikon was built later beside it, early 11th century.

His full-body relics are kept on display today inside the Katholikon. They were stolen by the Crusaders during the 13th century A.D. and kept in the Vatican for centuries before their repatriation.

When I entered the imposing Katholikon, my jaw literally dropped and I was overcome with awe. The exterior was imposing enough but nothing prepared me for the scale of things on the inside… for the stunning marble slabs, the intricate designs on everything I caressed with my eyes, especially the beautiful mosaics and the frescoes that are characteristic of the 10th-11th century A.D. because of the golden background.

Even the sunlight contributed that morning to make the scene one of astounding beauty, as it streamed in eagerly through the many elaborate windows.

On the left of the interior there is a portico, where people can pay their respects to the full-body relics of Hosios Loukas and then walk on a little further to enter the other, adjacent church…

 

More awe-inspiring beauty awaited me at the adjacent Virgin Mary church (Theotokos)

The masonry and brickwork of this older church was breathtaking. From what I found out later on line, it boasts a special style of masonry that combines stones with bricks to form decorative motifs. In time, it became the prototype for all the classical Byzantine churches of southern Greece.

I have very basic knowledge of Byzantine architecture, but I can tell you it was just as spectacular as Katholikon. It was amazing for me, actually, to see that mere stones and bricks can create such a stunning decoration. Truly, this church has all it takes to stand unabashed beside another that practically beams ‘dressed’ in polished marble.

There were many people inside Virgin Mary church, so I just followed the queues to explore it…

In one corner, people gathered up to write names on little notes of papers, leaving coins to the priests in return for blessings for their ailing loved ones or their departed from this world.

Another monk stood further away offering blessed chunks of bread to the visitors.

Outside, in the streaming sunshine, eating my piece of blessed bread, I closed my eyes for a while and inhaled the crisp Autumn air, feeling really blessed to be there as the birdsong reached my ears.

The main court was a pleasure to explore, and I went stepping up and down on different levels to photograph the two churches and the buildings of the monks’ cells from different angles against a cheerful azure sky…

Hosios Loukas had chosen to build the Katholikon on top of an existing church, that is still open to the public today. It is a stunning large crypt with groin vaults forming the roof, and it is dedicated to Agia Varvara (St Barbara).

Its entrance is around the back of the Katholikon building–not accessible from within the church. The tomb of Hosios Loukas is situated inside it.

Outside the monastery, nature beckons enticingly…

There is a large green space there, with grass and trees, and a couple shops that offer a wide variety of religious merchandise and local produce. And they also serve coffee, which visitors can enjoy sitting in this beautiful space that overlooks the monastery and the mountains on one side and the vast valley on the other.

The birdsong reached my ears busy and sweet as I took in the breathtaking views, and it was the perfect way to seal my memories of this awe-inspiring, blessed place, before it was time to go–much too early for my liking, but it couldn’t be helped as we were on a coach.

But, perhaps next time I’ll have more time to explore more spaces of this fortified Byzantine ‘little town’. According to the plan on display, there are old stables, an oil press, a museum, and other places of interest for the visitors.

My eagerness to see them serves as a wonderful motive for me to return.

Travel information: Hosios Loukas is in Boeotia (Viotia) north of Attica, about 170 kms from Athens along the motorway route Athens-Levadia-Delphi. It can be easily combined with other places of interest for a day out from Athens. It is situated in the area of Distomo, a part of Greece forever reminiscent of the harrowing atrocities against its locals carried out by the Nazis in WWII. Distomo is a beautiful village with places of archaeological interest and a Holocaust Museum. The bustling and quite cosmopolitan town of Arachova is 30 kms away from the monastery. You can see my travel report from Arachova here. Arachova is a highly recommended Greek destination. Some say it’s overrared, but others adore it and return there every winter for a quick break, so I guess you’ll have to decide for yourself! 😉

VISIT FACEBOOK TO SEE MORE PHOTOGRAPHS FROM HOSIOS LOUKAS!

  greek bacon pastry pinwheels easy

Easy and quick to make!

These puff pastry pinwheels are perfect to serve with meze and ouzo (or beer!), or you can use them as a side dish with virtually any meal. Just buy a ready pack of puff pastry and make them in no time!

The filling is cheese, bacon and red pepper. They make a treat that’s both colourful and highly delicious. So comforting during winter to have straight out of the oven. And the crunchiness is all the money…

Go on, impress your family and friends!

GET THE RECIPE!

 

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