Hello, All! Today, I am thrilled to share my travel report from my super-short stay in Thessaloniki (aka Salonica) earlier this month. I had only 1 full day to explore it and managed to admire most of its major sights and popular quarters.
Scroll down towards the end of this post to find out how I marinade lamb (or pork) for a Greek meat roast. I am sharing all my best tips on how to prepare this yummy meal including my family recipe for tzatziki. Enjoy it all, folks!
A stunning Greek city, so reminiscent of Rome…
I took this photograph of the magnificent ‘Kamara’ (Arch) on New Year’s Eve. It’s in the bustling city of Salonica, and it is one of many remnants from the Roman occupation of the city. The Kamara was constructed to honor the Roman Caesar Galerius (Galerius Valerius Maximianus) circa 300 A.C. to commemorate his successful expedition against the Persians. Galerius’s palace was situated near the Kamara and its ruins stand today on the other side of the busy avenue, amidst Navarinou Square.
Looking at this precious monument, it was hard for me to imagine that, a few decades ago, trams circulated in the city and used to pass right under the Kamara! I just couldn’t imagine this happening today. And I am pleased no accidents ever happened during that time to cause destruction to this magnificent structure. What a gem for the city it truly is today, creating such a delightful contrast to the contemporary urban landscape.
It is standing silently and with perfect dignity, despite its losses through the centuries, and it is practically obliging whomever approaches it, be it a tourist or a local, to slow their pace and let their eyes wander upon its beautiful, intricate sculpted marble slabs that depict the wars of Valerius against the Persians.
A stone’s throw away from the Kamara stands the magnificent Rotonda…
The Rotonda was built during the reign of Galerius in the 4th century A.C as a Roman temple. In the Byzantine era, it was a Christian church and beautiful frescoes were painted in it, some of which survive today. Later in time, the Rotonda also served as a mosque.
After the Minor Asia Catastrophe in the 1920s, when the Greeks fled their lands and arrived into Greece in droves, many of those who were brought into Salonica were placed in the Rotonda temporarily until they could be put into basic homes. It was an awe-inspiring experience for me to stand in this place of vast and such diverse history, and considered myself very lucky to visit it at a time when there was no one else around but my husband, Andy, and I.
The Rotonda is cylindrical in shape and so reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome, except the Oculus (the ‘eye’ on the top, at the center) is not open in the Rotonda.
The White Tower and the seafront were that something else…
I thought I was impressed enough visiting Roman ruins and Byzantine churches, admiring old mosques and the impressive arched openings of the city’s famous indoor markets, and then we wound up on the seafront, where the White Tower stood, a beauty to behold, and our excitement hit the roof. I always wanted to visit the White Tower, and, let me tell you – it was well worth the wait.
The ascend is comfortable, with wide corridors and steps, and on every level there are displays that offer old pictures and information where the holding cells used to be, at the time of the Ottoman Occupation of the city. The Ottomans built the tower in the 16th century and were brutal rulers. After they massacred the rebellious Gennissaries inside the tower, the latter acquired a new name… It was referred to for some time after that as the Red Tower or the Tower of Blood.
Today, the displays on each level explore a different facet of the history of the White Tower and Salonica, too. The mentions to the harrowing Nazi occupation era linger on my mind still. During WWII, the Nazis rounded up Salonica’s large Jewish community and put those poor souls on trains to the butcher camps of Europe we have all heard about… Only a few returned to Salonica to tell the tale. Mentions to contemporary times were included on the displays in the White Tower, including ones to Greek movies and songs that are relevant to the city. The view from the top of the tower was too beautiful for words, on all sides…
By far, the best was the sea view, of course, and we marveled at the wide bay that stretched as far as the eye could see. A couple of pleasure boats were docked down below, and others were cruising up and down along the bay, offering even food on board as they gave the tourists a fun ride in the sea air. The most delightful were the pirate ships.
A Captain Jack Sparrow character stood on the dock at the entrance of one ship luring the little ones in, who tugged at their parents’ sleeves from afar, rushing to get a ride. Clever marketing, I say, and it definitely works! But, we didn’t get a boat ride. Our time was limited and we wanted to visit several popular quarters of the city before nightfall. So we went for a walk along the seafront instead, where we made sure to tick off all the famous landmarks on our list of things to see.
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The famous ‘Umbrellas’ didn’t disappoint. Everyone wanted to take the same photo, it seems (unlike this pretty girl in this photo, but then she had loads taken, including THE pose). What’s THE pose, I hear you ask? Well, you’re supposed to grab one of the umbrellas by the handle and have your photo taken with one foot mid-air, knee bent, as if you’re being lifted off the ground. We stood nearby for a while and everyone seemed to know what to do. It made us chuckle.
We also loved the fountains (you can see part of these on the right of this photo). It certainly made the little ones giggle. Standing on that platform you never know where the water will spurt from next. I must return in the summer to try that on a scorching hot day, LOL The famous sculpture of Alexander the Great, King of the ancient Greek kingdom of Macedonia, on horseback was beautiful, though our guide ruined it a little for us, by telling us a secret…
There is a mistake in the depiction of this great king and general. His horse is depicted with both its front hooves up in the air, which signifies the rider died in battle, but this wasn’t the case with Alexander. Since he died from disease, one irrelevant to a battle wound even (that would call for one hoof off the ground, BTW), the horse’s front legs would have to both be on the ground.
Still, the statue looks beautiful, and more impressive, that way. And Alexander did love his horse, Bucephalus (pronounced ‘Voukefalas’, in Greek, which means ‘Head of an Ox). I am so glad it was included in the sculpture!
St Dimitrios was the most amazing among all the churches I visited. That says a lot, believe me… Salonica reminded me so much of Rome, and not just because of the Roman ruins and history. It did that also in the sense that its ancient yet magnificent churches filled me with a sense of unparalleled awe. And that was mostly the case when I entered the grandiose church of St Dimitris, patron saint of Salonica. Inside the colonnade on both sides of the main space, one will find a multitude of relics and beautiful icons to marvel at. The top floor offers another impressive prespective, as you can see, and we loved it that it was Sunday when we visited, and a mass was underway, the church full with people.
As stunning as the main church space is, though, nothing prepares the visitor for the true magificence of what hides in its bowels. Truly, I pity the visitor not in the know, who enters this church and leaves it without ever visiting the Roman crypt underneath – a labyrinthine space that easily throws you back into Roman times, if you let it…
And let it, I did, looking at ancient artifacts scattered everywhere as I visited various cell-like spaces in this underground, outwordly place. It all resonated in me like a chill on my spine, and it was an odd experience because at the same time the comforting sounds of the mass from the ground floor echoed down into the ancient spaces and pleased my ears.
At the centre of it all, stands the exact space where St Dimitrius himself was once kept imprisoned and ultimately executed by the Romans.
Galerios himself ordered the Saint’s imprisonment and ultimately his execution, simply because he prayed in public spaces and believed in Jesus Christ. St Dimitrios is heralded as the Holy Great Martyr (Megalomartiras), and also as the ‘Myrrh-Gusher’ (Mirovlitis) because according to legend, streams of scented oil came forth from his relics.
According to some sources, he was a soldier of the Roman army, which makes it hard for me to fathom just how much hate the Romans might have had for Christianity, enough to turn against one of their own, in a sense. St Dimitrios was young when he was martyred, around 26 years of age.
It was very moving and awe-inspiring for me to stand alone for a few moments before this beautiful monument raised to honour the Saint and pray to him.
A plain bougatsa…. is a ‘bougatsa me krema’ in Salonica!
Salonica is very much about food… and desserts especially. But you have to order them right!
We spent the rest of the time visiting famous quarters of the city, starting from Ladadika. This popular area took its name from the word ‘ladi’ (oil), as this was where the merchants once kept their stock of olive oil, and it was truly fortuitous that the Great Fire of 1917 that destroyed two thirds of the city, leaving 70,000 homeless, never reached this area.
Ladadika became a red light district later in time and today it is a hip place to be, full of vibrancy, a place where locals and tourists alike go for a meal or a drink and it really comes alive in the evenings, or so I hear.
We sat there lunchtime for a gyros pitta, but I forgot to call it a ‘sandwich’ when I ordered, like the locals oddly do. Luckily, the young waitress was well versed on the Athenian vernacular and got me the right meal haha
Same thing happened when we went to one of many small family establishments, just off the famous Aristotle (Aristotelous) Square, to order a Bougatsa. I asked for one and the lady asked, ‘Savoury? With cheese? Or sweet?’ And I had to laugh, because I’d promised myself that when I got to Salonica I’d order for a ‘Bougatsa’ the right way, but force of habit got in the way and I failed. The Athenians and the Salonicans have forever been teasing each other on the subject of Bougatsa…
You see, in Athens, a Bougatsa is filled with custard and sprinkled with cinnamon. It’s sweet. You can’t get it wrong if you ask for one. But in Thessaloniki, a Bougatsa means ‘pastry’. It’s a vague term. So the Salonicans differentiate by saying Bougatsa with cheese, Bougatsa with spinach, Bougatsa with cream, and so on.
So, when the nice lady asked what kind of Bougatsa I wanted, all I could do was say, ‘Sweet, with cream! Sorry!’, chuckle awkwardly, and try to save face… for being one of those odd Athenians haha
We also had the chance to walk quickly past the Louloudadika area (an open-air flower market) that was heaving at the time. It was like Monastiraki in Athens, but on speed! Since it was New Year’s Eve, it was packed, vendors were cooking souvlakis on a couple stalls, and people were eating standing all over the place, dancing and whooping to loud live music.
We found the same kind of crowds and commotion in Fraggomahalas, an area that used to be the French Quarter back in the day.
We didn’t stay long there for the same reason, but we did admire beautiful old buildings, and the most renowned landmark of this quarter – the Old Clock on the impressive bank building that still shows the time it stopped (at 11:05) during the Earthquake of 1978.
After sundown, we headed back to Aristotle Square to watch a beautiful event. Crowds started to gather way earlier than the pre-announced time, and more kept on coming, to place written wishes inside paper lanterns and lit them up.
Soon, a multitude of lanterns was rising into the night sky, offering a magical spectacle.
I took this photo as we were heading back to the hotel, at the end of a tiring (14 hours walking and exploring!) but truly unforgettable day.
I was standing before the Roman Forum, looking towards Aristotle Square and the seafront. It was a whimsical sight with the lanterns in the night sky. The photo doesn’t do it justice, but I hope you’ll enjoy this little peek.
A couple of weeks have passed now, and I miss Salonica beyond words. It was a short stay and we only had one day (New Year’s Eve, hence the crowds) to explore it in the daytime, as we were on the coach travelling or seeing other places of interest on the other days. I hope to visit it again, just hubby and me, to take it all in, in our own pace. And to visit the Ano Poli, which we missed totally during this trip.
Overlooking the city on high ground, Ano Poli (Higher City) offers generous views to the city and the bay. There are beautiful lanes and churches to explore up there, great cafes and eateries, but most of all, there are the ancient walls of the city to admire, as well as the ‘Yedi Koule’ (aka Eptapyrgion) – an Ottoman Fortress of 7 towers. These ‘promises’ are certainly enough to keep me dreaming of Salonica and aching to go back.
Not to forget those pirate ships… I certainly hope to enjoy a boat ride with ‘Captain Jack Sparrow’ at the helm next time!
VISIT FACEBOOK TO SEE THE PIRATE SHIP, ALEXANDER’S STATUE, AND MANY OTHER OF THE PHOTOS I TOOK IN SALONICA!
GO HERE TO WATCH A SHORT VIDEO THAT I MADE FOR YOU AT THE TOP OF THE WHITE TOWER!
Finger-licking stuff! Greek lamb roast using a delish marinade with herbs and spices
Today, I am pleased to share my special marinade for lamb (or pork). The combination of mustard, garlic, dried mint, paprika, and rosemary makes the kind of magic I cannot possibly describe. You’ll just have to try it to know. You can use oregano instead of mint, and you can add carrots and tomatillos in the pan for a colourful dish.
GO HERE FOR MY RECIPE, INCLUDING THE ONE FOR THE TZATZIKI DIP. ENJOY!
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