The British Cemetery and The Corfu Channel Incident of 1946. An account from Royal Navy Veteran Frank Carrick

Shortly after publishing my article about The British Cemetery in Corfu town I received an email from Royal Navy Veteran Frank Carrick from Ayrshire, Scotland. Frank read my article and wanted to share with me his own experience as well as an article of his own. I found it very moving and highly informative, a true gem. With his kind permission, I am delighted to share it with you all today.

George Psailas (pictured left), and Frank Carrick during the latter’s first visit to the cemetery.

Frank told me the kindest things about George Psailas, the caretaker of the cemetery for many years, whom he once was fortunate enough to meet in person. George Psailas gave him a copy of a booklet he had written on the orchids of the cemetery. Frank cherishes it to this day.

George Psailas was a bit of an expert on orchids and also took care of a multitude of tortoises that lived in the cemetery when he was there. The whole place was thriving at the time, and he lived his whole life in this quiet corner of Corfu town.

From the little I’ve heard, it seems to me that the whole Psailas family were honorable people, who did a remarkable job with the cemetery while it was in their care. During the German Occupation, they hid a Jewish family at the house where they lived, inside the cemetery. What a brave act that was, saving the lives of these innocents from certain torment and annihilation.

George Psailas is buried with his wife Marie right at the top of the main path of the cemetery (photo credit: Kevin Atkinson)

Frank Carrick, who has been visiting Dassia, Corfu for his summer holidays with his family for many years, visits the cemetery whenever he is on the island. Sometimes, he leaves wreaths on the graves of the heroes and, other times, leaves memorial poppies.

Without further ado, here’s Frank’s original article about the British Cemetery, George Psailas, and the Corfu Incident, as he wrote it back in 2007 when George Psailas (who died in 2021) was still with us.

The British Cemetery and The Corfu Channel Incident – by Frank Carrick

As a regular visitor to Corfu I thought I had seen most of the island and places of interest.

However, back in 2004, one of my Greek friends asked if I had ever paid a visit to the British Cemetery in Corfu Town.

To my shame, I had never even heard of it! The very next morning, I set off for the Town and the Cemetery thinking it would be difficult to find as I had never seen it in all my visits to Corfu, but my fears were unfounded; just crossed San Rocco Square to the Airport Road, walked about a hundred yards and there it was, the gate to the British Cemetery.

As I opened the gate, it was like entering another world. It was so quiet, tranquil, and after the traffic noise and the hustle and bustle of the dusty town centre it was like heaven, unbelievably peaceful and quiet. A little bell disturbs the peace for a second as the gate is opened, and almost instantly, the figure of the caretaker appears before you.

He enquires as to your preferred language, introduces himself and then proceeds to give the visitor the history of the cemetery, locations of certain memorials and a bit of his own life story, and offers a guided tour.

George Psailas and his booklet, ‘The Orchid House’. George is buried with his wife Marie right at the top of the main path of the cemetery.

The caretaker is called George Psailas and he was born in 1927 in the cemetery. He was married in the cemetery and he will show you where he will be buried when his time comes. George took over the duties of caretaker in 1944 on the death of his father, who had looked after the Cemetery since 1924.

The British Cemetery in Corfu town is also famous worldwide for the orchids that grow in the gardens. Some, so I’ve been told, grow nowhere else. Visitors from all around the world come to see them bloom in I believe March/April/May.

In addition to the supervision of the cemetery, George is also responsible for the orchids and is a bit of an expert. On my first visit, George accompanied me around the cemetery gardens pointing out interesting monuments and telling me of some of the people buried there.

The cemetery is the last resting place for British soldiers, sailors and members of their families since 1814 when Corfu was under British Protection (1814-1864). However, there is a section dedicated to Germans killed during their occupation of the island (1943-44) and even some from the Kaiser’s time (his personal boat crew). Most of the German remains have been returned to Germany although the monuments remain.

One interesting German grave is of Erich Kerizen (09.10.1944), murdered by his own men after he prevented the destruction of the harbour in Corfu Town by cutting connections to the explosives as the Germans were leaving at the end of the occupation.

The cemetery also contains the remains and memorial to British VC holder John Connors (1830-1857). He was about 24 years old, and a private in the 3rd Regiment (later, The East Kent Regiment – The Buffs), in the British Army during the Crimean War when the following deed took place for which he was awarded the VC:

On 8 September 1855 at Sebastopol in the Crimea, Private Connors showed conspicuous gallantry at the assault on the Redan in personal conflict with the enemy. He rescued an officer of the 30th Regiment who was surrounded by Russians, by shooting one and bayoneting another, and then for some time carried on a hand-to-hand encounter against great odds until support arrived. He survived the war and died in Corfu 29th Jan 1857.

There are a few more interesting monuments all around these quiet gardens, with their own captivating tales, but the area I personally found to be most intriguing was the memorial and graves of British sailors killed during what became known as ‘The Corfu Incident’.

In the far left-hand side of the cemetery, deep in the shade, stands a large white stone, with the names of 32 Royal Navy personnel from the ships HMS Volage and HMS Saumarez, who were killed by Albanian mines in 1946. Their bodies were never recovered. In a neat line leading away from the main memorial lie another 13 smaller white stones.

These mark the remains of those 12 sailors recovered from the ships, plus the remains of a young midshipman (18 years old) from HMS Forth, who died in Gibraltar in 1951 and was transferred to Corfu. Being ex-RN I became intrigued by these graves and the story surrounding them.

I had never heard of the ‘Corfu Incident’, and yet, here lay the remains of 44 British Seaman killed by mines one year after the war had ended. Why and how? I decided to find out not only for myself, but to keep the story alive in the hope that these sailors would not be forgotten.

Here is what I’ve found out so far. In May of 1946, Albanian shore batteries fired upon two British cruisers, HMS Orion and HMS Superb. As Britain had just won the war and supposedly ruled the seas, they could not ignore this episode had to make the point that the straits between Corfu and Albania could and should be used freely by ships going about their lawful and peaceful business. In a show of force designed to demonstrate who was boss (my opinion), in October 1946, four British ships led by the cruiser HMS Mauritius sailed through the narrow channel, which were at the time recognised International Waters.

HMS Saumarez, a destroyer, was in second in line, with the cruiser HMS Leander and destroyer HMS Volage, following behind. Just off Saranda, HMS Saumarez struck a mine. It was a massive explosion just below her bridge on the starboard side. HMS Volage was ordered to aid the crippled ship and, if possible, take her under tow.

The Volage managed to secure a tow rope, (despite the surrounding sea burning with oil) and start the tow. Tragically, as she moved off, she herself hit a mine which blew off her bow, the tow, and instantly killed eight men.

Despite the damage and loss of life to HMS Volage her crew courageously manoeuvred her back to a position where she could recover the tow. She accomplished this but had to tow the Saumarez astern; that is both ships sailing stern first. What a feat of seamanship and real bravery.

It took thirteen hours to travel the sixteen miles to Corfu. It must have been a terrifying experience for all the surviving seamen living through the horror of the explosion and the loss of their shipmates and friends. For every minute that passed of those long hours at sea, the thought in the back of their own minds must have been, ‘Are there any more mines?’ Thirteen hours of expecting another explosion, of ‘Is this my last moment?’

The channel had been swept clear of mines after the war. The straits had also been used recently without incident, so there was no way of knowing if the rest of the passage through the straits would be safe. Terrifying indeed.

They must also have been very brave. A total of 44 men were killed. There were also another 50 men who suffered serious injuries. Albania denied laying the mines and any knowledge of them. However, the Royal Navy swept the Straits and found that, in all, there had been a total of 25 brand new mines in the channel. This proved they were not rogue mines left over from the war.

The League of Nations proved that the mines could not have been put in position without the knowledge of Albania, who had manned look-out points and shore batteries all along the coast. Albania counter-charged Britain for trespassing in Albanian waters without permission and sweeping for mines. Britain was found guilty of this charge! Albania was found guilty of laying the mines or having knowledge of them and fined about £830,000. The fine was never paid nor an apology ever received for the murder of those sailors, for that was what it was. Murder!

In June of this year 2007, I returned to Corfu with a wreath from the RBLS Irvine Branch and placed it at the memorial to the men killed in the Corfu Incident. I was accompanied by a friend–Dave Hughes. (ex-Para). It was Dave’s first visit and he was quite moved, not only by the incident, but also by the British Cemetery and the dedication of George Psailas to his task of looking after the gardens. I say ‘gardens’, for that is what they are.

Every grave has wild flowers growing on them, and although it is a cemetery it is still a delightful place to have a stroll or even spend some time watching the resident tortoises wander around (George puts out fresh fruit and veg for them) in the shade.

It must be really beautiful when the orchids are in bloom. On leaving the cemetery, there is a visitors’ book and many messages in many languages appear here. You can also leave a small donation to help with the upkeep. You don’t have to and no offence is taken if you refrain.

The wreath laid this year was dedicated not only to those men lost during ‘The Incident’ but to the Late Peter Smith who served on HMS Saumarez and survived the mine. He died on the 28th April this year. Peter’s best friend or ‘Oppoe’ was AB Vernon Francis who was killed by the mine and his body was never recovered. Peter named his son after his pal, and that son, Vernon Smith, asked me to say a few words on his behalf at the memorial.

Vernon also told me his father was always troubled by the fact that he never knew if his friend Vernon’s body was ever recovered. It is to my regret that I could not give a definite answer to him before he passed away.

The old photograph of the funeral in the British Cemetery is by kind permission of George Psailas, the caretaker of the British Cemetery, and it is featured in a little booklet he wrote called ‘The Orchid House’.

All the heroes buried at the British cemetery shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old: Age shall not weary them, nor the years contemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning We will remember them.

The words written in this article are my own, as are the opinions. The whole incident has been covered by better and more informed people than me. There has been a book written on the subject, which I have been unable to acquire at this time.

The title is ‘The Corfu Incident” by Eric Leggett. New English Library: 1976 ISBN-13: 9780450024740 ISBN: 0450024741

George Psailas attended the funerals of the sailors killed by the mines in his second year as Supervisor.

The Commonwealth War Graves Commission awarded him a prize of honour in 1977.

It reads: ‘Certificate Presented by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission to George Psailas In Recognition of Long and Devoted Service’.

Directions to the British Cemetery:

From Corfu seafront to south of the old town and turn inland onto Alexandras Avenue, which is a big tree-lined avenue. At the top of this is Sarocco Square which contains a huge roundabout.

From this roundabout, if you’re driving, follow the signs for the hospital and the British Cemetery down Polichronis Konstanta. The cemetery is to the left and very close to the prison.

If on foot, when you reach Sarocco Square from Alexandras Avenue go left into Methodiou street, a busy road lined with shops. Just before the T-junction, you’ll see a street corner on your left (Kolokotronis Streeet). The cemetery is a few meters down that street. You will see it shortly after you turn the corner.  

I offer my heartfelt thanks to Frank Carrick for sending me his beautiful and highly informative article. His love and respect for our military men to whom we all owe our freedom today, shines through.

I will end this article in a similar fashion, with the timeless poem, The Soldier, by Robert Brooke to pay my own respects to the heroes buried in the cemetery:

‘If I should die, think only this of me: That there’s some corner of a foreign field that is for ever England. There shall be in that rich earth a richer dust concealed; a dust whom England bore, shaped, made aware, gave, once, her flowers to love, her ways to roam; A body of England’s, breathing English air, washed by the rivers, blest by suns of home.

And think, this heart, all evil shed away, a pulse in the eternal mind, no less gives somewhere back the thoughts by England given; her sights and sounds; dreams happy as her day; and laughter, learnt of friends; and gentleness, in hearts at peace, under an English heaven.’

 

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Postcards from Corfu by Angelos Giallinas (and Corfu nature walks and hikes)

Monastery of Palaiokastritsa

Today, I am thrilled to share an original article by a gifted and highly knowledgeable author and journalist, Hilary Whitton Paipeti, who I am honored to call a friend.

Also, let me ask you. Do you enjoy Corfu walks and hikes? Scroll to the bottom of this article for an unmissable tip!

Hilary gave me the most beautiful gift when we met this summer – a bunch of reprints of old Corfu postcards by legendary artist, George Giallinas. It is a gift I will cherish forever.

I have chosen a couple to share with you here, and I will let Hilary tell you in her own words why these postcards and this artist are so special.

For one, I am enchanted by what I see in these paintings – a Corfu that is long gone since the emergence of organised tourism that irreversibly changed village life and the look of many of the island’s iconic locations.

Without further ado, enjoy Hilary’s article:

Benitses

Postcards from Corfu by Angelos Giallinas

By Hilary Whitton Paipeti

The best postcards of Corfu ever produced were reproductions of Angelos Giallinas’s gorgeous watercolours. They were printed in Corfu by the Aspiotis-ELKA printworks, which operated in a large building, now a school, located behind the Ionian University on Kapodistrias Street. The postcards featured mainly village scenes, and are now collectors items.

Angelos Giallinas (1857-1939) is generally regarded as Corfu’s foremost watercolour artist, and his paintings, immensely popular during his lifetime, command high prices. Transparent and full of light, they capture the charm of Corfu. Much imitated (though never matched), his work remains popular up to the present day. Giallinas travelled extensively in Greece and Europe, painting and exhibiting as he went. Among his most famous works are his views of Athens and its classical monuments, and a series featuring Constantinople; but his Corfiot landscapes remain the best loved. And it was these that he made into postcards.

Their publication, which date from the decade of 1910 and onwards, was a clever commercial move which netted the artist a good income. It was the heyday of the Angleterre Hotel (Bella Venezia), where Europe’s aristocracy comprised the main clientele. The hotel was located above the Orpheas Cinema on Zambellis Street, next to the existing hotel of the same name (it was destroyed by German bombs on the night of 13 September 1943). The Aspiotis-ELKA printworks was just over the road (and the artist’s town house faces the Esplanade nearby), so the Giallinas cards would not have far to travel to the individual who commissioned them!

The Old Venetian Walls (Mouragia), Corfu town

At the time, these cards carried the ‘wish you were here’ message out to Europe. How many people visited Corfu after receiving a card featuring one of Giallinas’s lovely views? Vlaherena with Pontikonissi behind… Paleokastritsa’s bays and hinterland from the Monastery… The Palace of Saint Michael and Saint George… a vista taking in Karoussades and the vale behind… rocks at Paleokastritsa… the Mourayia bathed in morning sunlight… the Peristyle of the Achillion with its statues… the Church of Agia Barbara in Potamos… view from the Pelekas summit… View of Pelekas village… the twin peaks of Pantokrator from the sea… the Old Fortress at dawn… Benitses (my own favourite)…and many more.

Agios Varvaros Church, Potamos

Giallinas almost destroyed the art of watercolour painting in Corfu. His paintings were so gorgeous (and popular) that every subsequent watercolorist tried to copy him. Problem was, Giallinas painted light, and the later artists couldn’t, however hard they tried. The trend led to a marked lack of unoriginality as no-one in this medium dared to try anything new.

Due to the printing process, the postcards really don’t capture the wonderful light of the originals.

Another artist whose work was reproduced on postcards was Vikentios Bocatsiambis (1856 – 1932: an almost exact contemporary of Giallinas). Also printed by the Aspiotis printworks, these cards appear to date from the 1940s and 50s, after the artist’s death.

In contrast to the landscapes of Giallinas’s cards, they feature portraits of peasant ladies in costume, and serve as a record of the island’s lovely national dress. At the time when Bocatsiambis was painting, the costumes varied substantially from village to village; now, on show at touristic ‘Greek Nights’, it is almost completely restricted to the Gastouri wedding outfit.

Hilary is pictured at the centre in this photo. Image source: https://walkswithtsb.blogspot.com/2018/06/no-blogs-for-couple-of-weeks-as-we-have.html

Hilary Whitton Paipeti, a resident of Corfu, writes for the FREE Corfiot e-newspaper, The Agiot.

She also enjoys taking tourists on group walks and hikes around the beautiful countryside of the island. You can visit Hilary’s sites, Corfu Walks and The Corfu Trail, for more information.

To check out her e-book, In the Footsteps of Lawrence Durrell and Gerald Durrell in Corfu, as well as her forthcoming publication, visit this page.

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A clean romantic suspense short read with an unreliable narrator that’ll keep you guessing! Vera is losing her mind over famous actor Yannnis Ksenos, except, she isn’t just a fan… Now, she plucks up the courage to ring his doorbell… Visit Amazon

 

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Clean romance short read, FREE with Kindle Unlimited. It’ll transport you straight to Corfu to experience summer in an idyllic Greek seaside village. The story is inspired from the author’s love for Moraitika and its people. Now, also available as an audio book! Visit Amazon

Beach fun and sweet romance mixed with magic spells and bird shifters! The Raven Witch of Corfu is an original story that will rivet you with its unrelenting suspense. The final twist will blow your mind! Available in paperback , box set or 4 kindle episodes! Visit Amazon

Haunting family memories from Corfu, captured in a short read

My Corfu Love Story is a book very close to my heart. It started as a short story, “My Holiday With Granny,” where I tried to capture the feeling I get every time I stay in my Corfiot grandmother’s house in the old quarter of Moraitika village, now that both she and my grandfather have passed away.

This tiny house in the old village quarter still talks to me, and I can hear their voices, I hear their laughter in every corner. Sometimes, the memories come flowing into my mind like an avalanche, and it becomes overwhelming.

Hence, it is an odd experience to stay in that house – it makes for a summer holiday that’s both delightful and sad each time, I guess, but this a price I pay with gratitude for all the love and care I have received from my grandparents since infancy.

I spent many three-month-long summers in that house as a youngster with my grandparents, and it is this hauntiness that I experience in their home now that has inspired so many of the scenes in My Corfu Love Story (just as it happened with my largely autobiographical novel, The Ebb, of course).

My Corfu Love Story is set in Moraitika and Messonghi in south Corfu – two quaint villages that still remain my corner of heaven on Earth. This short read is one of my most popular reads to this day, and it goes to show that clean stories about family still touch people out there.

So, what do you think? Would you like to escape to this blessed island for a couple hours, if only with your mind?

Hit the button below to check out My Corfu Love Story now!

VISIT AMAZON

 

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NEW! Clean Christmas romance. Single mother Cathy Roussos gave up on love long ago, and veterinarian Alex Rallis doesn’t believe in it, but one magical Christmas on a Santorini farm might just change everything…
Check it out on Amazon     Read a FREE sample!

 

A clean romantic suspense short read with an unreliable narrator that’ll keep you guessing! Vera is losing her mind over famous actor Yannnis Ksenos, except, she isn’t just a fan… Now, she plucks up the courage to ring his doorbell… Visit Amazon

 

For my delicious Greek recipes, go here
 
Planning to visit Greece? Check out my  FREE guide to south Corfu!

 

Have you considered Amazon Prime? Other than offering free shipping on all your orders and fabulous streamed content, you’ll also have access to numerous other services, such as: Free grocery deliveries, free food deliveries with Grubhub+, exclusive medical care and prescription services, and more!

Start your FREE 30-day trial today

 

Clean romance short read, FREE with Kindle Unlimited. It’ll transport you straight to Corfu to experience summer in an idyllic Greek seaside village. The story is inspired from the author’s love for Moraitika and its people. Now, also available as an audio book! Visit Amazon

Beach fun and sweet romance mixed with magic spells and bird shifters! The Raven Witch of Corfu is an original story that will rivet you with its unrelenting suspense. The final twist will blow your mind! Available in paperback , box set or 4 kindle episodes! Visit Amazon

A personal account, pertaining to an obligation toward my late grandmother from Corfu

Today, I am pouring my heart out, folks, to share a personal account about my late grandmother. Those who have followed me for a while or read my novels, know what she and my late grandfather meant to me.

This summer, like we often do, my husband, Andy, and I spent a little over a week in Moraitika, Corfu. As always, it was a mixture of different things. During that short time, you try to do what you can – you don’t always relax but rather live on the clock. We managed to see only precious few people out of all those we wanted to see, in between trying to get one swim a day and to shape up my grandparents’ crumbling old house as best we could.

This tiny house in the old quarter of Moraitika on the hill is where I used to stay with my grandparents, Spyros and Antigoni Vassilakis, as a young girl, mainly in the 80s.

I aspire to be able to stay there for longer periods in future and make it a comfortable place to stay in. We hope to manage it as of next year when my husband retires from his job. Luckily, me being a writer means I can take my work anywhere.

This summer, Granny’s old fridge packed in from the first day. It was an interesting experience, if anything, to have to shop daily so we could cook and consume the food in its entirety each day.

But, on top of everything else, this odd vacation will forever stay indellible in my memory because I brought to Corfu with me my granny’s old bones. Yes. Literally. Her bones.

Last year, when I visited my father’s homeland – the island of Limnos – I brought Granny’s bones along with me back to Athens in a special metallic box. I kept it in my mother’s grave here all winter.

 
 

Granny had passed away in 2016 while staying with my parents on Limnos and was buried there, despite her wish to be buried on Corfu. It was a terrible time for my family, the timing of her passing truly abysmal. Basically, my granny suffered a fall and was commited to hospital on Limnos just as my mother got diagnosed with cancer and had to rush to Athens to start chemo.

I guess, if I ever wrote this in a book people would hound me. They’d never believe these things can happen, and yet they do. At the time, I lost the earth under my feet and felt like the whole world had conspired against me to make sure I would be away from my granny when she needed me the most… I had to be here in Athens for my mother.

And thus, Granny died alone on Limnos while in the care of strangers. The day she left Athens, I even had a premonition I wouldn’t see her again, and as it were, I never did.

All I got as a goodbye was to manage to speak to her on the phone a couple days before her passing. Her blood had been infected after the fall, and she didn’t communicate well verbally. She mumbled that day on the phone a lot, and I couldn’t understand a word she was saying. But then, just as I lost hope, as if it were an act of mercy from Heaven, she spoke a single coherent phrase that I will always cherish:

“May you always be well, kyra mou, may you always be well.”

(“Kyra mou” means “my lady” – it’s a popular term of endearment in Corfu.)

I knew then that Granny was saying goodbye. She had also told my mother a couple days earlier, “Don’t come visit me on Monday, I won’t be here. I’m going to Corfu.” I knew then, too, that she was getting ready to go.

In the evening of Easter Monday, my granny passed away alone in a room having been fed her last meal by a stranger. I can only imagine how sad or afraid she must have felt, despite her confused mind at the time.

But I console myself with the thought that my grandfather, her dearest Spyros, if not her beloved parents too, had come to escort her on her journey to Heaven at her dying hour.

My parents were on Limnos at the time, planning to leave two days later to resume my mother’s chemotherapy in Athens. In record time, they could only arrange for a quick funeral at the village of Lychna, near our family home there. Transportation of Granny’s remains to Corfu was going to take time, effort and personal attendance there – for all of us, at the time, these things were impossible because of my mother’s illness.

Tragically, my Corfiot granny couldn’t have died any further from Corfu since Limnos is on the diametrically opposite edge of Greece – in the northeast Aegean, opposite the shores of Turkey.

Granny, who adored her home in Moraitika and her island, literally used to say, “I don’t want to leave my bones on Limnos.”

And yet, she stayed buried there for eight difficult years, while I took care of my mother in Athens, then my father too, who both suffered greatly with cancer.

Finally, this blessed year, having lost them both, I was able to fulfill my obligation to my granny, this time, to return her bones to Corfu so that she could be buried in the family tomb with my grandfather, who died back in 2010. This was where she wanted to rest.

I placed their wedding wreaths in the grave with them, fullfilling her wishes to the letter.

My inability to complete this task all these years had been a longstanding thorn inside of me, and as it’s all dissolved now, I feel I can share this painful account with you all.

I thought it might provide comfort to anyone who may also feel guilty after the loss of someone dear to them, for whatever reason. Really, we always do what we can do. And no one, not even God, ever expects us to do the impossible.

But even so, after the passing of a loved one, we can still do a small act to honor them and to provide rest for their soul, not to mention solace to our own.

Which brings me to this glass jar that has been very important to me since Granny died…

 

At the first opportunity after Granny’s passing, I left this jar at her grave on Limnos. Inside it, I placed a handwritten note, as well as dirt and pebbles from various places my granny loved on her island, such as Corfu town, Moraitika, Messonghi, and even from her front yard.

In my note, among other things, I expressed my wish that these contents would help her find comfort in that foreign ground until she could lie with Granddad in Moraitika, as she wanted.

This summer, my trip to Moraitika has been healing for me, and I like to think that it was the same for her soul too. Granny “spent” two nights in her home, the home she always longed to return to, until the priest of Moraitika called me to perform a blessing at the grave where Granddad was buried.

After that, we put Granny’s remains inside.

Once it was all done, the relief I felt was tremendous. I didn’t know what to do with the jar, which I’d brought with me to Corfu. I wanted the contents to be released into the world in a meaningful way that I could remember forever with equal relief.

After much deliberation, I poured the jar contents at our favourite spot on the beach in Moraitika, where Granny used to take me and my sister swimming. Most of the pebbles I had taken from there, anyway.

As for the note, I took it in the water with me folded up in my palm as I swam on my last day. Once it soaked into nothing, I simply opened my hand and let the tiny bits sink down to the seabed. Truly, it made my heart sing, as this jar had become the symbol of my unfulfilled obligation to Granny, the symbol of my pain in a wound that kept gushing open for so long.

And with that, I’ll explain why this is important.

You see, the Greeks have a history of honoring the bones of their dead.

When the Asia Minor Catastrophe took place in 1922, the Greeks who fled from the now Turkish shores (Greek towns at the time), took with them, along with very few belongings, the bones of their dead. They didn’t want them left behind, the graves desecrated by a non-Christian, barbaric enemy.

In the same vein, there are people today who bring back home the bones of their ancestors, who died as emmigrants in faraway lands, even as far as the United States or Australia.

Why? Because in Christian Orthodox belief, the bones are alive–or, rather, have the potentiality to come alive again.

This is a deeply rooted belief in the hearts of the Greek Orthodox.

For one, we believe that from the bones we will rise again at the Second Coming. This is why burial continues to be the number one choice at funerals in Greece and why very few (non-believers, mostly) choose cremation.

We also believe that the dead do not find peace unless their bones rest where they wanted to be buried.

Here, I think it’s apt to refer to the vision of Prophet Ezekiel (chapter 37). During the vision, the prophet walked through a valley filled with dry bones. God spoke to him, and intructed him to talk to the bones and bring them back to life.

Soon, the bones began to come together, nerves and flesh covering them, and then skin formed around them too. And then, came The Holy Spirit and blew life into the bodies, and they rose, alive anew.

A reference to people coming alive from their bones is also made in the Book of Matthew (27:52-53). The moment Jesus died on the cross, an earthquake caused saintly people to rise from their graves, enter Jerusalem and begin to walk among the living.

So, yeah. Bones are important according to the Greeks. Just as the dead are still very much themselves and alive, just not in the physical.

From the plethora of accounts of visions, miracles, and even near death experiences that I have listened to all my life, I actually believe that, in the spiritual realm, the dead are even more alive than we are, and way more powerful than we’ll ever be.

 

Since the day when I fullfilled my long-standing obligation to my grandparents, I had a dream one night. I was walking to their house, and when I got there, they welcomed me together.

Just as they’d done hundreds of times before, they hugged and greeted me, and kept on laughing with exceptional gaiety. I then looked down at myself and was shocked to find I was naked from the waist up. It caused me great shame to think that on my way there people had seen me in that state, but my grandparents seemed amused by my shock, as if my shame was unfounded, as if they couldn’t see my nakedness.

Needless to say, I awoke with a light heart that morning. The dream signalled to me that they’re happy and I no longer need to feel bad, ashamed, or guilty towards them because they had to wait for so long to rest together, or because I wasn’t there to hold Granny’s hand on her last days.

 
 

Finally, now, they lie together as they wanted. And now that I’m back in Athens, I think of their grave on that serene mountainside of Moraitika, and for the first time, I can smile…

To read more about my grandparents and to see old photos, you’re welcome to visit these posts:

A Lifetime of Corfu Summers

Remembering my Grandparents

And, in this post, you can read more about the beliefs (and the Orthodox rituals) of the Greeks pertaining to their deceased:

What is Psychosavato (Soul Saturday)? Learn all about the Greek Orthodox traditions and beliefs about the dead. Wheat berry offerings, the knots bracelet, the soul’s journey to heaven and more

 

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A serene walk around The British cemetery of Corfu town. Victorian graves and fallen heroes.

A shady and quiet part of town that was immensely interesting to explore

During my short vacation on the island of Corfu this summer, my husband and I visited The British Cemetery of Corfu for the first time. After a delightful but increasingly uncomfortable wander around the old town and its marvelous lanes because of the extreme heat, my notion to head to the cemetary for some shade and serenity, away from the crowds, proved to be an excellent choice.

The British Cemetery of Corfu is situated on Kolokotronis street, near San Rocco (Sarocco) Square, about a fifteen-minute walk from Liston.

At Sarocco, we stopped to ask for directions, and, lucky us, the woman we asked randomly turned out to be an Irish lady who lived in town. She eagerly provided directions, and even gave us information of the cemetery’s current, and rather unfortunate status. But I’ll tell you all about that in a minute. Let me start by giving you an idea of the place, and a bit of history…

 

The British cemetery of Corfu was opened as a military cemetery in about 1855, while the island was under British occupation. During the First World War, the island was used as a naval base, both by Great Britain and the United States. The cemetery contains 13 First World War burials and 16 from the Second World War. The latter are mostly casualties from two H.M.S. destroyers, Saumarez and Volage, that were mined by the Albanians in the Corfu Channel, off the coast of Albania, on October 22, 1946 (The Corfu Channel Incident).

I found the burial site from these two naval catastrophes particularly moving (see the top two photographs among the four above). A contemporary color photograph of four people, probably, all related to each other, lies inside a frame at the bottom of the memorial plaque. It makes it obvious to think that the heroes buried there are still being honored and remembered to this day by the later generations of their families. You can see a wide view of this burial site above, on the first set of photographs (I am pictured standing before it).

At this particular burial site, the Christian inscriptions at the bottom of many of the tombstones were particularly moving to read out–using beautiful rhymes, they express sentiments of heartache, and a hope for peace – both for the deceased and the living. Here are two of them:

“Time cannot change or even dim, the loving memories we have of him.”

“Peace, perfect peace, with loved ones far away, in Jesus keeping we are safe and they.”

Other than the burial site with the casualties from these two lost destroyers, the cemetery also features a collective grave of unidentified victims from the collision of H.M.S. Orwell in 1903.

We were surprised to find some German graves in the cemetery! No idea who and why, so if anyone has any info about this I’d love to know more. They were laid out together, about four or five of them. They weren’t marked by gravestones but by big wooden crosses, dating as far back as 1897.

Also, I’d like to mention that there is a small ossuary in the cemetery (see above, it’s the edifice on the lower part among the four photos, on the left).

 

 

“Sacred to the memory of…” was the beginning of most inscriptions I read from the 1800s. It was heart-breaking to read about the loss of so many lives at a young age, including those of newborn or small babies and of women losing their lives during labor. Such was the case for Sarah, the wife of Major Brandreth of the Royal Artillery. According to the inscription on her tomb (see above), she died “Beloved and Lamented” in 1819 during delivery at the age of 35, along with her baby.

 

 

In this photograph, perhaps you can make out the tiny frame at the bottom of the tombstone on the right. It contains the actual Victoria Cross medal awarded to the deceased, Private John Connors, for “conspicuous gallantry at the attack on the Redan” during the Crimean War. Connors, a private in the 3rd Regiment of Foot, died in 1857 “from the effect of a fall from the battlements at Port Neuf.”

At the bottom, the inscription reads, “Ye know not what shall be on the morrow. James chapter IV:14”

The remnant of the attentions to this hero by his surviving family members is hard to miss. If you look at the small empty tub that surely was once left at the grave with fragrant blooms inside it, perhaps you will see a spot of red color. It is a faded fabric poppy, the symbol of rememberance that the British still wear on their lapels once a year to honor their dead during the wars.

 
 

Other than the military graves during the two world wars, the cemetery also has a staggering 400+ non-war military and civilian graves.

Up until recently, the cemetery was still under the jurisdiction of the British War commission and it was well-maintained. Both flora and fauna thrived, and the gardens were well-clipped and lush.

Sadly, things changed back in 2023, when the British Ambassador to Greece announced that the complete jurisdiction of the British Cemetery was going to pass from the British War Commission to the Municipality of Corfu.

The latter committed to maintain the site and to continue to allow access to the relatives of the people buried in the cemetery.

However, once they took over, a ban on new burials was introduced with the exception of people who already had family plots there. Another newly applied restriction related to the visiting hours, which are now limited to 8:00 am to 1:00 pm, Monday to Friday, except for holidays.

This is particularly distressing to the British who wish to visit the graves and honor their dead out of this time window. Some of the Brits on the island who work are not able to visit on weekday mornings, and in general, the ban stops them from following some Orthodox traditions too, such as Psychosavvato (Soul Saturday) which calls for a blessing given by a priest at the grave, as well as other actions that honor the dead – i.e. lighting a candle at the grave, burning incense, or leaving some kolyva (wheat berry).

Note: To learn more about the tradition of Psychosavato and Greek Orthodox beliefs pertaining to the deceased and the afterlife, you are welcome to read this post on my blog.

Sadly, these are not the only inconveniences the British families of the deceased have to navigate. The place itself seems to be in a state of ruin and neglect these days compared to how it was before the take over. The situation is worse in the winter and the spring when the weeds grow waist-high and it becomes hard, if not impossible, to approach some of the graves. The British community on the island continues to push the Municipality of Corfu for a more effective gardening service, as well as for the care of the creatures that live in this beautiful natural space.

For many years, the British cemetery used to be under the care of the Psaila family, who lived in the residence inside the cemetery. The last caretaker before the take over by the Municipality of Corfu, was Mr. George Psailas, who took extra care of the orchids and other rare flowers in the gardens, as well as its living creatures, including many tortoises.

The cemetery used to be a paradise for the naturalists at the time. You may also be interested to know that some of the rare trees have been planted by none other than Mr. Theodore Stefanidis, the polymath and mentor of Gerald Durrell.

During my visit, I saw some cats at the lush, picturesque entrance of the cemetery, where the residence I just mentioned still stands. Outside, stood a friendly female council worker, who welcomed us cordially. In front of the building, I saw dishes with dry pellets left out for the cats and flower pots that were well-watered, so maybe some steps are being taken to the right direction.

Note: If you plan to visit the cemetery, please note that there are two entrances to it. The main one that has the sign with the opening hours was locked when we arrived. Thankfully, we noticed to the right another small entrance which was open and we used that to get in and out. Make sure to look for it if you also find the main gates closed!

Having visited in the height of summer, there were no weeds on the paths and the plots, though some of the graves in more remote parts could have been tidier. But, in general, the ground was clear. The two of us and the few other visitors we encountered wandered about on smooth ground. Sadly, all the trees (mostly, cypress trees) looked wilted, and, in some parts, so scorched, as if burnt by fire. Granted, it’s been a fierce summer, but hopefully, a more frequent watering would give new life to those poor old trees.

I hear the cemetery still has a tortoise population, but I regret to say I didn’t see any. Maybe, next time. I’ll definitely return to explore it further. The cemetery proved to be bigger than we thought and we ran out of time!

GO HERE to see all my photographs from The British Cemetery of Corfu.  

How to get there:

From Sarocco Square, take Methodiou street (toward the airport). Just before the junction, take a sharp turn left into Kolokotronis street and you will see the cemetery on your left hand shortly. If you’re coming from the airport or the bus station, you pass the legendary Villa Rossa on your right hand (which is currently covered by scaffolding, by the way – finally, some maintenance work?). The junction is shortly after Villa Rossa. Turn right at the junction and then sharp right again to get to the cemetery. It is situated a short walk away from Sarocco and about half a mile from the bus station.

Please note: I do not know if you can drive according to my directions. I always park away from the center in the area of Villa Rossa. There’s parking on the residential streets across from it and a free municipal parking area too.

A final note: Many thanks to my Facebook friend, Jan Manessi, who provided some of the information I provide here. 

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A boat trip from Corfu to Paxos and Parga

Pleased to share today photos from a boat trip my husband and I did last August during our stay on the island of Corfu. The excursion boat you see in the photo took us to the island of Paxos first, where we had a cooling swim a short walk away from the port of Gaios. The quiet little bay where we swam was as magical as I remembered from our first visit there in 1998 during our honeymoon vacation on Corfu.

SEE ALL THE PHOTOS HERE

The water is so crystal clear in that tiny bay that you can see every detail on the sea bed. And the rustle the water makes as it laps on the shore and scrapes the shingles makes this pleasing sound to the ears that I can never have enough of… Here is a short video I took to show you, guys. Have a listen!

You’re welcome he he 🙂

After our swim, we barely had time to grab a quick bite to eat before it was time to leave. Leaving Paxos, we set sail to the seaside town of Parga in the mainland of Epirus.

The beautiful architecture of Parga and the picturesque island at a short distance away from the shore made up a perfectly quaint landscape that just begged for photographs. Parga is such a stunning town for a vacation, with beautiful beaches nearby that can be visited by boat. I regret to say we didn’t have time to visit the island or the castle. We only had time for a quick lunch at one of the many tavernas on offer and a quick wander around the beautiful lanes before it was time to head back to Corfu.

Though the boat trip was fun, filling our senses with sheer delight, it was rather exhausting. We spent a good part of the day on the boat as the distances are great.

What I really wanted to do was visit Parga and head straight uphill to visit the castle, but as I said, there was no time. Plus, it was 3 pm by the time we arrived and the sun was hammering. What can I say? I am just a Greek – haha. So I ran towards the nearest awning for shelter (and a very nice souvlaki) 😛

 

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Beautiful Corfu town and… spetseriko, Corfu’s secret spice mix!

The vaulted street of Liston in Corfu town was modelled after Rue Rivoli in Paris

Hello, All! I am back from Corfu, where I spent 10 wonderful days, and I am thrilled to share with you today a few photos from the old town. Also, I am about to spill the beans on Spetseriko–the traditional, delicious AND secret spice mix of Corfu! Below, you will find out where you can get the real deal while in Corfu town AND how you can make it at home on your own too! Sounds good? Let’s go!

A sea view from the grounds of the Old Palace

My husband and I spent a sunny morning around the capital of Corfu, visiting the old quarter.

Our day started with the must-have coffee at Liston–the famous vaulted street which was made during the French Occupation of Corfu. The French modelled it after Rue Rivoli in Paris. The old town quarter with its stunning antiquated buildings and the large square of Spianada remain silent witnesses to the history of Corfu.

In succession, the island was occupied first by the Venetians, who made the Old and the New Fortress, then the English, to whom we owe the beautiful greenery at the Old Square (Spianada) as well as the cricket green before Liston where the Brits taught the Corfiots how to play cricket!

Finally, the French, the last foreign occupants on the island, decorated the Spianada with gorgeous architecture. I’ve already mentioned Liston, which they constructed, and they also made the round edifice with the colonade all around it that still stands at the end of the square beyond the bandstand.

Speaking of Liston, did you know that in the old days there was a thing called Libro D’ Oro which is Italian for ‘Golden Book’? The names of all the aristocrats were listed in it. And only people whose name was in the Libro D’ Oro were allowed to walk along the street of Liston! Talk about keeping the riff-raff away, LOL. Things were pretty strict back then!

Anyway… During our visit, we enjoyed the generous sea views from the garden of the Old Palace such as the one you see above. All around these grounds, there are marvelous vistas that compel the visitors to use their cameras. This summer, there were two art exhibitions housed on two different sides of the palace. Buying one ticket gave you access to both, and they were delightfully diverse, which was a bonus.

My favourite was a homage to the Greek Revolution in 1821 which depicted in paintings mostly prominent figures from that time. The other exhibition involved paintings of contemporary themes by a single lady artist. I loved the flowers she painted especially. Stunning stuff. I don’t know for how long these exhibitions will be at the palace, but if you are on the island, they are well worth a visit.

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Sssh! I am about to disclose a secret! The secret of Spetseriko!!

During our day in town, we made sure to visit this old pharmacy… to buy a spice mix for pasta!!!!

During my long summer stays in Moraitika in the 1980s, my granny was forever taking my sister and me for a walk around Corfu town and for a spot of shopping too. She never missed visiting this old pharmacy just off Sarocco Square. It’s situated on the right side of the road, just after Sarocco, heading towards Liston and the old town quarter.

I hadn’t been in there for many years, but I never forgot Granny referred to it as ‘the Pitsilos pharmacy’. As I stood at its facade, I realised at once it had been heavily renovated and guessed it was under new management too. Going inside, I saw the antiquated cabinets I recalled from the old days where no longer there, but I have to admit the new decoration was just as beautiful and paid homage to the pharmacy’s long-standing tradition on the island.

Before I knew it, I was asking the owner about the name ‘Pitsilos’ and he didn’t seem to know it in relation to the property. Then again, he was very young, in his 30s I would think, and if my granny was alive today she’d be 99 years old. So, she probably had seen this place change hands more than once during her lifetime. The kindly owner, other than selling me a large sachet of spetseriko much to my delight, told me that, as far as he knew, the pharmacy was owned previously by a lady called Carmella. When I asked around later on, other locals confirmed that name and some still refer to it as ‘Carmella’s pharmacy’.

None seem to have heard of the name Pitsilos, though, but since Granny had a sharp memory till the day she died at 92, I can only give her the benefit of the doubt. Perhaps it was owned by a pharmacist called Pitsilos much earlier in time. After all, the place was founded in 1915 according to the writing on the facade. And a website I found claimed it was in operation back in 1850!

Chatting with locals on Facebook about this place, I found out that a few decades back, at least one doctor used to work from this pharmacy in the evenings. I can only guess that every day people didn’t have easy access to doctors back then. Visiting a pharmacy and getting some advice from a doctor rather than having to visit a remote hospital or a costly private surgery, may have been easier to afford and provided many with prompt access to medical care.

Apparently, in the old days, all pharmacists in Corfu made spetseriko and they were called ‘spetsierides’ because of this. The word ‘spetseriko’ has Venetian origin. It is derived from the word ‘speci’ which means ‘spices’. Every pharmacist had their own recipe for spetseriko back in the day, and, at least this specific pharmacy I visited, which still seems to make it, keeps theirs a secret to this day.

By the way, the owner of the pharmacy today is Mr Skiadopoulos and the address is Georgiou Theotoki 56, Sarocco Square – in case you wish to have your own sachet of spetseriko!

I put my recent purchase to the test the first time I made Bolognese and it was as divine as I can remember. I cannot wait to try it also in Pastichio like my granny did too. She also made the best Pastitsada with spetseriko. I urgy you to try it if you cook any of the aforementioned meals, or in any tomato sauce for pasta.

Just use very little at first, and see how you go. Perhaps 1/4 of a teaspoon at first. I once made a mistake of putting 1 teaspoon in my Pastichio and it made me VERY ill. Do not try this, folks, unless you’re sure you have the system to take a large amount. As it was proven, I don’t 🙂

And, hey, did I say you don’t have to visit Corfu to get spetseriko? As it turns out, there are recipes online! I found a Greek blog that shares an easy-to-follow recipe. I’ve translated it into English for you. Enjoy!

10 gr ground clove

50 gr ground cinnamon

50 gr ground nutmeg

70 gr sweet paprika

50 gr ground cumin

20 gr spicy chilli powder (i.e. spicy ‘boukovo’, ground)

100 gr sweet chilli powder (i.e. sweet ‘boukovo’, ground)

20 gr ground allspice balls (i.e. ‘bahari’)

30 medium laurel leaves (ground to fine powder)

25 gr ground black pepper

Mix the ingredients together well, and keep in a sealed jar in a cool place.

Sources for the recipe: SecretKitchenandTravel.gr and AtCorfu.com

Note: I found other recipes too, and each one had more or less the same ingredients but with different measurements and proportions, but it’s worth saying this: All the others I found omitted the laurel leaves and just advised to add 2 laurel leaves in the pot with the spetseriko. I would go for that option, personally, but it’s up to you!  

Interested to see more of Corfu town? Check out this post. Magnificent vistas in Garitsa & Anemomylos, the stunning old quarter of Campielo, and a traditional soap factory. Enjoy!

Get my pastitsada recipe here!

 

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Old village life photos #Moraitika #Corfu

The writing says: Cultural center of Moraitika, a calendar of memories from our village. 2020 wishes for health, love and progress.

Late last year, I was contacted on Facebook by Mrs Aglaia Anthi, President of the cultural center of Moraitika, Corfu. She said she’d seen some old photos on my website and asked for permission to use them for the 2020 calendar of the cultural center. I was thrilled and, of course, I said yes.

Last January, she sent me a copy of this beautiful calendar which I am thrilled to share today. I meant to do it back then but, sadly, I was in a bad place at the time, caught up in my late mother’s daily cancer fight. When I received the calendar, I took it to her bed to leaf through, and she cried to see the photo on the first sheet, which depicted her grandparents, Stefanos and Olga Vassilakis. She kissed their faces on the photograph whispering, ‘i nouna mou, o nounos mou…’ (the Corfiot words for ‘my granny, my granddad). The memory still causes my heart to twinge with feeling. My mother passed away on February 12, and I am comforted to think she is in her grandparents’ and her parents’ arms right now.

Without further ado, here is the calendar, sheet by sheet. I hope you will enjoy it.

January-February. Caption: The first priest of Moraitika and his wife (Stefanos and Olga Vassilakis).

My great-grandfather was also a teacher of Moraitika. The house he built for his family still stands on the hill near the church. Part of it was used as the village school at some point. He is buried in the church yard. For more photos and information, see my post about the two churches of Moraitika on the hill.

 

March-April. Caption: Kato Vrysi.

Or how the locals pronounce it, ‘Katou Vrysi.’ Loosely translated, it means, ‘The tap downhill’. It is situated on the side of the main road outside the dilapidated estate behind the Coop supermarket. There is also an ‘uphill tap’ called ‘Panou Vrysi’ which is at the edge of the village on the hill under a big plane tree. This is why the locals also call it ‘O Platanos’ (The plane tree). For detailed directions to Panou Vrysi, see my guide to Moraitika.

 

May-June. Caption: Old estate houses of the village.

The building on the left is the Papadatos estate house. This family also owns the little church of Agios Dimitris nearby (my great-grandfather is buried outside the main door of this church). The building on the right is the Koukouzelis estate house. Today, the grounds are used by the council for cultural events (concerts mainly). For more info and photos, see the same post about the churches.

 

July-August. Caption: Moraitika wedding of Kostas and Eleni Vlachos.

My uncle Kostas passed away a couple of years ago, but Aunt Leni remains active at her old age (born 1933), and still helps out at her seaside apartments of ‘Nea Zoi’ (beside Caldera on the beach). See my guide to Moraitika for these establishments. Here, below, follows an excellent commentary about this photo by my Aunt Leni as relayed by her daughter-in-law, Spyridoula Vlachos:

‘The wedding took place in 1953 in the village of Episkopiana. This picture was taken at the look out near the St Nikolaos church in Episkopiana that no longer stands. This is the area of the old estate home of Patsos that is now inhabited by the Tata family. After the wedding took place, everyone set off to Moraitika on foot, where the reception party would take place on the village square. On the front, walked the organ players and the priest who held the bible, then followed the bride and the groom, with everyone else behind walking them. Back then, the way to Moraitika was via the estate of the Kapodistrias family. In this photo, Stamatis Vassilakis’s daughter, Marika, is pictured beside the bride dressed in white. She had got married just a week earlier and was pregnant with her first child.’

Re my Aunt Marika (daughter of Great-Uncle Stamatis Vassilakis): She was one of my favourite relatives of the Vassilakis family. She had the heart and the soul of a child. I still recall so vividly the last time I saw her, visiting her in her house after a long while during my short stay in the village. It was a couple of years earlier, just months before she died. She was confused with dementia and didn’t recognize me when I approached her. Still, her good heart must have done, because she kept holding me, her eyes sparkling with love and delight while saying, ‘I love you! I love you!’ I’ll never forget her face that day; so innocent, so loving. Somehow, she is the only one whose name I didn’t have the heart to change in my largely autobiographical novel set in Moraitika, The Ebb.

Back to the wedding photo: Great-Uncle Lilis, a teacher, stands behind Aunt Marika. Behind Aunt Leni, the bride, on the right, is the groom, Uncle Kostas. To his right, stand Aunt Olga, and Great-Uncle Kotsos with Great-Aunt Rini Tsatsanis from Messonghi. The girl with the frizzy hair beside them is Maria, Lefteris Kosmas’s sister (he runs Leftis Romantica). My mother, Ioanna, is pictured further right as a little girl with her hands on her waist.  

September-October. Caption: Group photo of members of the Vlachos and Vassilakis family.

My great-grandmother’s maiden name was Vlachos, and her wedding to Stefanos Vassilakis bound the two families together as one with great relations. This photograph was taken outside the Vassilakis house (late 40s to early 50s). She sits at the center dressed in black, as befitted a widow at the time. My great-grandfather passed away in 1944, and she did in 1953. The building shown in the background is the Koukouzelis estate house as mentioned earlier. The mulberry tree they’re sitting under still stands today and so does the olive tree on the right.

Pictured from left to right: Back row: Great-Uncle Antonis Vassilakis, Aunt Olga (Lilis’s daughter), Great-Aunt Irini, Aunt Dina (or Beba, Lilis’s daughter), Christos Vlachos, Tsantis Vlachos. Middle row: Great-Uncle Kotsoris (Kotsos) Tsatsanis, Great-Grandmother Olga Vlachos, Angelina Vlachos, Great-Uncle Lilis Vassilakis and his wife, Great-Aunt Fotoula. Front row: Great-Uncle Stamatis Vassilakis. Behind them, the children Petros and Sofia Vlachos. Petros used to run The Crabs restaurant on the beach (now Caldera, run by his son Christos). On the right of my great-grandmother, you can see Evgenia Vassilakis (wife of Stamatis) and her grandchildren, Vasso and Stefanos Moraitis (both, Marika’s children).

November-December. Caption: Washing in the ‘mastello (old Venetian word for ‘wooden tub’).

If my memory serves me well, ‘Forena’ is a nickname for the woman pictured  here. I think she lived or had a shop in the old days on the upper square of Moraitika where the Village Taverna is. This square was always referred to by my grandparents as ‘Foros’ (a Venetian word meaning market or square, in my understanding).

The rest of the caption reads: ‘Open-air barber shop (Pippis, Kapouas, Tatsos, Lopi, Sofia).

For more photos and info on the Vassilakis family and my old summers in Corfu, see this post.  To follow my blog and be notified of my new posts, go here.

This is it for now, everyone. I wish you a wonderful summer, and hope you’ll get to make lots of new and exciting memories – be it in Corfu, or your own corner of heaven 🙂

 

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Moraitika and Messonghi in Corfu: an insider’s travel guide

Messonghi river, Corfu
Messonghi river

Today, I am writing to spread the word about my favorite corners of the world – the stunning villages of Moraitika and Messonghi in Corfu. Having holidayed there most summers since the late 1970s, I’ve written an insider’s travel guide to spread the word about them.

My guide will tell you everything you need to know if you’re planning a visit, or if you’re simply hoping to do that sometime in future. ‘Cos who doesn’t like to daydream about beautiful exotic locations, right?

Messonghi beach, Corfu
Messonghi beach

In my travel guide you will find among other things:

Traditional Greek tavernas, recommended family hotels and apartments, the best beaches in the area, where to go for live shows and a great night out (lots of family fun!), the best boat trips (setting off from Messonghi river or Lefkimmi port), places of interest and fun things to do in the greater area and more.

Moraitika beach
Moraitika beach, view to the mountains of Chlomos and Martaouna

Did you know?

Moraitika’s old village quarter is nestled on a hill and is full of picturesque lanes you’ll love to explore and revisit. My insider’s guide will give you intriguing facts and history tidbits as well as offer tips on places of interest off the tourist trail.

And did you know there are three wonderful family tavernas up on the hill, all offering exquisite Greek dishes? One of them has this stunning view that overlooks the bay!

Speaking of stunning views, there’s another taverna that overlooks the same bay, but this one is on the side of Messonghi. The taverna is situated on Martaouna, one of the two iconic mountains of both the Moraitika and Messonghi skyline.  For details, visit the guide!

Messonghi beach
Messonghi beach

Moraitika and Messonghi are great destinations for beach fun! Moraitika offers some water sports, pedaloes and canoes for hire, and a water park that’s great for both adults and kids alike. The beach at Messonghi is quieter, with a greater proximity to the iconic lush mountains on the peninsula, and is graced by a weather-beaten, yet much loved pier that is a must to walk or sunbathe on, if only to marvel at the crystal clear waters under it.

Are you a Durrells fan? The guide will tell you how to book a great boat trip from Messonghi river that will take you to both Kalami (to visit the White House) and to Kontokali to see the film house of the Durrells TV show (from the boat). In the guide, you’ll also find out how you can book an exclusive guided tour (specific dates and times only!) to visit Danilia, where many village scenes of the show were filmed!

Moraitika and Messonghi are perfect choices for fun in the sun, whether you’re traveling with children, as a quiet couple, with friends, or even alone. It’s a safe place to be in and the locals are exceptionally friendly.

So what are you waiting for? Visit my guide now and start planning your perfect beach holiday!

VISIT THE GUIDE TO MORAITIKA AND MESSONGHI

Have you visited Moraitika and Messonghi? What did you think? Comment below or on my guide and let me know. I’d love to hear from you!

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New Durrells photos and a quick chat with Kostas Krommydas

Yippee! Our TV screens are about to fill again with stunning Corfiot landscapes of sparkling azure waters and cypress green hills as the sweet chords of mandolin and the chirpy voices of our favourite TV characters delight our ears. Yes, the fourth series of The Durrells of Corfu is upon us, and nothing seems to dampen our excitement, even though this is going to be the very last one… But thank goodness for DVD, I always like to say, so we can watch it all again and again in perpetuity. The other day, our beloved superintendent in the show, Greek actor and author Kostas Krommydas, gave me a new bunch of behind the scenes photos and I am thrilled to share them below along with our chat. Enjoy!

Hi, Kostas! The fourth and last season of The Durrells is about to be broadcasted in the UK. How do you feel about it?

Excited, of course! And I am delighted that I could participate in the third and fourth series of this wonderful British TV series. Sadly, it has come to an end, but I will always think back with fondness at this amazing experience and my cooperation with the cast – both the British and the Greek actors. I certainly hope more similarly high quality productions will come to film in Greece in future.

Tell me, has anyone among the British actors you worked with read any of your novels?

*Chuckles* I have handed out copies of my paperbacks to almost everyone among them and, yes, some of them have read them. However, most of them preferred to read on their kindles so they downloaded the books from Amazon. I am pleased, because I’ve received wonderful feedback from them all, and this honours me because I am aware that the British read a lot, and quality books too.

Actually, I’ve discussed one of my stories with the Durrells production team and they loved it. It is probable that in future we’ll discuss the story again in more detail in the hope it might become a new tv series, or perhaps a movie.

Wow, that sounds wonderful, Kostas! What are your future plans as an actor and author?

My impeccable experience with The Durrells has whetted my appetite for more. Now, I am always on the lookout for new productions that involve filming in Greece and abroad. Other than that, I continue to write new material and, in the near future, will be publishing my seventh book in Greek, which will be translated into English to be published on Amazon later on too. Nowadays, writing is my top priority. Acting has taken a back seat – it is something I plan to do only selectively from now on.

Your forthcoming book takes place in Tuscany, if I’m not mistaken?

Yes, that’s correct!

*Eyes him mischievously* Is this the book you discussed with the Durrells production team, by any chance? Come on, out with it!

*Laughs out loud* You guessed it, Fros. Yes, that’s the one.

Oh, super. No pun intended! *giggles* And I’ve heard some wonderful praise about this book from your beta readers on Facebook. I can’t wait to read it… Now, back to the last series of The Durrells. Can you tell us what to expect?

All I can tell you is that I appear in the first episode. A lot! And that the ending of the series will be very moving… The production has done a marvellous job to create the perfect ending that will remain unforgettable to the viewers.

Oh brilliant! I understand your novels are currently discounted on Amazon?

Yes! They’re all only 99c/99pp for a limited time.

Ooh. Great timing with the series! I’m sure your fabulous Greek tales will keep the readers happy while waiting for the next Durrells episode on the telly! *laughs* Thank you for this wonderful chat, Kostas!

Thank you too, Fros, for the opportunity to talk about my work!

 

GO HERE TO READ MY PREVIOUS INTERVIEW WITH KOSTAS AND SEE MORE PHOTOS!

SEE HERE HOW TO BOOK A TOUR OF DANILIA VILLAGE WHERE THE DURRELLS WAS FILMED!

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