FREE books and a tiny dairy shop in Corfu town with international fame

Alexis Dairy, a traditional creamerie in Corfu town, is tiny yet miraculous. Imagine just ten square metres of store space. As beautiful as it is, with its old-style charm and quaint pastel colors, it is hardly easy to spot in the old town, being secluded in a lane. A passer by who’s not in the know would never guess that this seemingly humble little store has gained worldwide fame.

Why? Because of its exquisite dairy products made from milk and butter that the owners produce themselves. The recipes have been passed unchanged from generation to generation and remain privy, to this day, exclusively to the Alexis family.

Alexis Dairy has been visited by the rich and famous for decades, as well as people from the international world of media.

One of the raw materials for the culinary triumphs on offer in this store is a fresh dairy butter of high quality that the family produces in their own farm. I swiftly photographed a huge block of the stuff that the lady behind the counter was weighing as I entered.

The butter has a healthy yellow tint, and as I came in feeling hungry, it made my mouth water. Especially because the divine smells of warm sweet milk and cinnamon had just hit my nostrils at the same time.

 

Greek tycoon Aristotle Onassis and his wife Jacqueline (Jackie) Kennedy Onassis, legendary Greek politician Konstantinos Karamanlis, and former Russian president Boris Yeltsin are photographed in this newspaper article. They have been just a few of the many famous customers of Alexis Dairy.

As if on cue, my eyes wandered further, towards the many newspaper and magazine articles that are mounted all around, and especially on the large mirror on the side wall. One specific title caught my eye: “Even Onassis used to lick his fingers.”

It made me chuckle. Who was I to argue? I knew I would love my purchases, right there and then.

Reading on, the article revealed that Onassis, who often visited Corfu in his yacht back in the day, always made sure to stock up with lashings of organic butter from the shop as Jackie enjoyed it at breakfast.

Having now tasted the famous “Galaktoboureko” of Alexis Dairy, a cream custard with crispy phyllo pastry drenched in syrup, I can vouch for the yumminess of the butter.

The dessert tastes and smells divine because of it. You can either purchase a box of 4 large pieces of galaktoboureko or buy pieces individually, and even can enjoy your purchase in the shop if you can find a vacant table. Very few are on offer, seeing that the shop is so small.

One more tip: If you’re taking a tray of galaktoboureko with you and it’s warm from the oven, leave the box and carrier bag open to give it air to breathe until it’s cooled. But! It is imperative that you reheat it slightly before eating to enjoy the taste to the maximum!

Other products on offer at the store: Yoghurt (drizzled with honey, if you wish), rice pudding (optionally with cinnamon on top), cream or chocolate pudding. I also saw jars of honey for sale, and brown round packages wrapped in cling film that looked like “sikomaida”. It’s a delicious organic product made with sun-dried figs, and it is scented with laurel leaves.

Looking further around the shop and peering at the mounted photographs, I recognised many politicians and other celebrities from their visits to the shop.

After my visit, I went online and quickly confirmed what I presumed – i.e. that a host of non-Greek celebrities have walked into this tiny space over time as well.

In one of his interviews, the owner, Mr. Periklis Alexis, states that Konstantinos Karamanlis, the Greek politician who reinstated democracy in Greece after the Junta (Dictatorship of the Colonels between 1967-1974) visited the shop frequently at Easter.

At the time, Mr. Alexis was a child, and his father manned the shop. Mr. Karamanlis’s order was always the same: yogurt, which he preferred to enjoy in a ceramic bowl. He always ordered more to take with him back at his hotel, to enjoy throughout his stay.

Another legendary customer was former Russian President Boris Yeltsin, who Mr. Alexis found quite unforgettable. He seemed incredibly tall to him, even though Mr. Alexis stood on a step behind the counter. Yeltsin, as Mr. Alexis recalls, ordered a rice pudding, which he had on the spot and seemed to enjoy greatly.

Mr. Periklis Alexis seemed active during our short stay in the shop, dashing in and out, eager to help and chat with everyone. He struck me as a man who really loves what he does, a man of great drive. This is a real blessing in someone’s life.

You can see Mr. Alexis in the photo above (and my husband, Andy, standing before the counter). In another photo I posted further up, you can see Mr. Alexis again, this time in a newspaper article of many years ago.

The shop has not always been a creamery. It was initially opened as a fruit and vegetable shop by Mr. Alexis’s grandfather, back in 1926. But as the family owned the farm from back then, it soon made sense to change the place into a creamery and make use of the exquisite organic milk and butter that they produced.

With a stubborn contempt towards the world’s tendencies to change trends and looks over the decades that followed, the space hardly changed these past one hundred years.

And, as the Alexis family never compromised on the quality of the products they offered, they managed to be featured by magazines of gastronomy and in a number of TV shows on many channels around the world, all of them highlighting their commitment to excellence.

Mr. Alexis has three sons. The youngest, having studied Economics in Athens, continued his education with a degree in galactology (dairy science) from an academic school in Ioannina. This, undoubtedly, proves that the forth generation of Alexis Dairy is fully qualified and eager to carry the legacy further.

Truly, it is a remarkable feat for a small family business that resisted change for a century, remained hidden in the intricate lanes of Corfu town, and yet, managed to shine a beacon of excellence around the world all this time.

I hope my humble contribution to shouting out its name as far and loud as I can will help more people to get to know it, as it would be greatly deserved.

Now that I have discovered it myself, it will remain for me a favourite stop from now on, whenever I am on the island, for that creamy, homemade-quality galaktoboureko.

As my late mother used to make it, this dessert is very close to my heart. Having enjoyed lashings of warm homemade galaktoboureko straight out of the oven for most of my life, it is virtually impossible to buy it in a shop and expect to match the experience. And yet, Alexis Dairy made that happen for me. This makes it a precious gem of a find!

I hope you will find the opportunity one day to visit this amazing place and taste its organic dairy products. They are made with excellence, but more importantly, with love and dedication.

Read on, and I’ll tell you exactly where to find the shop!

You will find Alexis Dairy in the old market area of Corfu town with very little effort. It is situated near the ancient church “Annunziata” that has a characteristic, imposing bell tower. If you’re coming from Sarocco square, you reach a fork in the road where the church tower is fully visible. Take the road on the left side, heading towards Liston.

A stone’s throw away from the church you will reach an opening in the lanes with a stone well in the middle (see photo above). Turn left there into a tiny lane, BEFORE you pass the well. The dairy store is right there, on your left hand.

Visit Google here for the pin of the shop’s location.

GO HERE TO SEE ALL MY RECENT PHOTOS FROM CORFU TOWN, INCLUDING THOSE I TOOK AT ALEXIS DAIRY. 

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If you’ve enjoyed this post, you may also want to check these out, also about Corfu town:

Venetian buildings and beautiful seascapes. Garitsa, Anemomylos, Campielo, Spilia and Patounis soap factory on Sarocco square. It’s all here: https://effrosyniwrites.com/2018/11/22/a-highly-recommended-walk-around-corfu-town/

Spilling the beans on spetseriko, Corfu’s secret spice mix! Where to buy it or how to make it at home for pastitsada or pastichio https://effrosyniwrites.com/2023/09/18/corfu-town-spetseriko/

 

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Beautiful Corfu town and… spetseriko, Corfu’s secret spice mix!

The vaulted street of Liston in Corfu town was modelled after Rue Rivoli in Paris

Hello, All! I am back from Corfu, where I spent 10 wonderful days, and I am thrilled to share with you today a few photos from the old town. Also, I am about to spill the beans on Spetseriko–the traditional, delicious AND secret spice mix of Corfu! Below, you will find out where you can get the real deal while in Corfu town AND how you can make it at home on your own too! Sounds good? Let’s go!

A sea view from the grounds of the Old Palace

My husband and I spent a sunny morning around the capital of Corfu, visiting the old quarter.

Our day started with the must-have coffee at Liston–the famous vaulted street which was made during the French Occupation of Corfu. The French modelled it after Rue Rivoli in Paris. The old town quarter with its stunning antiquated buildings and the large square of Spianada remain silent witnesses to the history of Corfu.

In succession, the island was occupied first by the Venetians, who made the Old and the New Fortress, then the English, to whom we owe the beautiful greenery at the Old Square (Spianada) as well as the cricket green before Liston where the Brits taught the Corfiots how to play cricket!

Finally, the French, the last foreign occupants on the island, decorated the Spianada with gorgeous architecture. I’ve already mentioned Liston, which they constructed, and they also made the round edifice with the colonade all around it that still stands at the end of the square beyond the bandstand.

Speaking of Liston, did you know that in the old days there was a thing called Libro D’ Oro which is Italian for ‘Golden Book’? The names of all the aristocrats were listed in it. And only people whose name was in the Libro D’ Oro were allowed to walk along the street of Liston! Talk about keeping the riff-raff away, LOL. Things were pretty strict back then!

Anyway… During our visit, we enjoyed the generous sea views from the garden of the Old Palace such as the one you see above. All around these grounds, there are marvelous vistas that compel the visitors to use their cameras. This summer, there were two art exhibitions housed on two different sides of the palace. Buying one ticket gave you access to both, and they were delightfully diverse, which was a bonus.

My favourite was a homage to the Greek Revolution in 1821 which depicted in paintings mostly prominent figures from that time. The other exhibition involved paintings of contemporary themes by a single lady artist. I loved the flowers she painted especially. Stunning stuff. I don’t know for how long these exhibitions will be at the palace, but if you are on the island, they are well worth a visit.

SEE ALL THE PHOTOS ON FACEBOOK

 

Sssh! I am about to disclose a secret! The secret of Spetseriko!!

During our day in town, we made sure to visit this old pharmacy… to buy a spice mix for pasta!!!!

During my long summer stays in Moraitika in the 1980s, my granny was forever taking my sister and me for a walk around Corfu town and for a spot of shopping too. She never missed visiting this old pharmacy just off Sarocco Square. It’s situated on the right side of the road, just after Sarocco, heading towards Liston and the old town quarter.

I hadn’t been in there for many years, but I never forgot Granny referred to it as ‘the Pitsilos pharmacy’. As I stood at its facade, I realised at once it had been heavily renovated and guessed it was under new management too. Going inside, I saw the antiquated cabinets I recalled from the old days where no longer there, but I have to admit the new decoration was just as beautiful and paid homage to the pharmacy’s long-standing tradition on the island.

Before I knew it, I was asking the owner about the name ‘Pitsilos’ and he didn’t seem to know it in relation to the property. Then again, he was very young, in his 30s I would think, and if my granny was alive today she’d be 99 years old. So, she probably had seen this place change hands more than once during her lifetime. The kindly owner, other than selling me a large sachet of spetseriko much to my delight, told me that, as far as he knew, the pharmacy was owned previously by a lady called Carmella. When I asked around later on, other locals confirmed that name and some still refer to it as ‘Carmella’s pharmacy’.

None seem to have heard of the name Pitsilos, though, but since Granny had a sharp memory till the day she died at 92, I can only give her the benefit of the doubt. Perhaps it was owned by a pharmacist called Pitsilos much earlier in time. After all, the place was founded in 1915 according to the writing on the facade. And a website I found claimed it was in operation back in 1850!

Chatting with locals on Facebook about this place, I found out that a few decades back, at least one doctor used to work from this pharmacy in the evenings. I can only guess that every day people didn’t have easy access to doctors back then. Visiting a pharmacy and getting some advice from a doctor rather than having to visit a remote hospital or a costly private surgery, may have been easier to afford and provided many with prompt access to medical care.

Apparently, in the old days, all pharmacists in Corfu made spetseriko and they were called ‘spetsierides’ because of this. The word ‘spetseriko’ has Venetian origin. It is derived from the word ‘speci’ which means ‘spices’. Every pharmacist had their own recipe for spetseriko back in the day, and, at least this specific pharmacy I visited, which still seems to make it, keeps theirs a secret to this day.

By the way, the owner of the pharmacy today is Mr Skiadopoulos and the address is Georgiou Theotoki 56, Sarocco Square – in case you wish to have your own sachet of spetseriko!

I put my recent purchase to the test the first time I made Bolognese and it was as divine as I can remember. I cannot wait to try it also in Pastichio like my granny did too. She also made the best Pastitsada with spetseriko. I urgy you to try it if you cook any of the aforementioned meals, or in any tomato sauce for pasta.

Just use very little at first, and see how you go. Perhaps 1/4 of a teaspoon at first. I once made a mistake of putting 1 teaspoon in my Pastichio and it made me VERY ill. Do not try this, folks, unless you’re sure you have the system to take a large amount. As it was proven, I don’t 🙂

And, hey, did I say you don’t have to visit Corfu to get spetseriko? As it turns out, there are recipes online! I found a Greek blog that shares an easy-to-follow recipe. I’ve translated it into English for you. Enjoy!

10 gr ground clove

50 gr ground cinnamon

50 gr ground nutmeg

70 gr sweet paprika

50 gr ground cumin

20 gr spicy chilli powder (i.e. spicy ‘boukovo’, ground)

100 gr sweet chilli powder (i.e. sweet ‘boukovo’, ground)

20 gr ground allspice balls (i.e. ‘bahari’)

30 medium laurel leaves (ground to fine powder)

25 gr ground black pepper

Mix the ingredients together well, and keep in a sealed jar in a cool place.

Sources for the recipe: SecretKitchenandTravel.gr and AtCorfu.com

Note: I found other recipes too, and each one had more or less the same ingredients but with different measurements and proportions, but it’s worth saying this: All the others I found omitted the laurel leaves and just advised to add 2 laurel leaves in the pot with the spetseriko. I would go for that option, personally, but it’s up to you!  

Interested to see more of Corfu town? Check out this post. Magnificent vistas in Garitsa & Anemomylos, the stunning old quarter of Campielo, and a traditional soap factory. Enjoy!

Get my pastitsada recipe here!

 

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