A Christmas wonderland and masterful stonemasonry under the snow-capped mountains of Tzoumerka, Epirus

The village of Pramanta in Tzoumerka, Epirus is famous for its master stonemasons (known as “mastores” or “mastoroi”).

These skilled craftsmen could produce intricate and durable structures using local stone and traditional methods. The nearby villages of Syrrako and Kalarites, which are absolutely stunning and protected under historic preservation laws, were largely built by these craftsmen.

Perhaps the most famous master stonemason of Pramanta was Kostas Bekas, who constructed the historic Plaka Bridge over the Arachthos River, the largest single-arch stone bridge in Greece.

 
 

It was completed in 1866 but suffered serious damage during the devastating flood of 2015. Today, it stands complete and accessible again, having been restored by a team of contemporary master stonemasons from Athens.

See more photographs of the Plaka bridge and details about its restoration.

Many of the traditional buildings in Pramanta were destroyed in a major earthquake in the 1970s, but the village still maintains its original charm with its beautiful paved streets and stone buildings.

The legacy of the stonemasons is preserved to this day through traditional building workshops and the work of modern-day masons such as Yiorgos Bekas, a descendant of the famous stonemason family.

As you enter the village, the first monument you see depicts a stone trowel on a rock, but that is just a small taste of the tribute the locals have paid to the huge stonemasonry legacy of the village.

 
 

Our coach parked at the edge of the high street at a crossroads. Right at the entrance of that main street, a work of art mounted on the wall depicts stonemasons at work and their various tools.

It leads the eye naturally down the street toward the main square of Pramanta and pays homage to the skillful craftsmen whose works still stand whole and beautiful today, all over the area of Tzoumerka.

The main square of Pramanta had been transformed during our visit into a Christmas wonderland for the holiday season.

 

On the lower side of the square, we admired a perennial plane tree and the church of Agia Paraskevi. The buildings all around looked whimsical decorated with string lights.

A sign at the square informed us that the Greek saint and avid preacher, Cosmas Aitolos (aka Cosmas the Aitolian), gave a speech to the locals at that very square in the summer of 1779.

The saint dedicated his life to preaching the gospel all over Greece and urged the people to build schools so that the Greek children could learn about the Faith and be well-grounded in Christian values.

He is thus widely cherished and celebrated by the Greek church for helping to preserve the faith and the Greek identity during a centuries-old occupation under a barbaric ruler.

Before visiting Pramanta, we had been tipped to choose the restaurant Boutzas for lunch. We weren’t disappointed. It was quite crowded in there, but we got served soon enough. Sitting by a window with a view to beautiful mountains we sampled local pie and cockerel with ‘hylopites’ pasta in an aromatic tomato sauce.

This restaurant experience was simply divine, and I urge you to visit it too if you’re ever in the area. Boutzas is situated right at the square, across from the plane tree (it is not the blue building in the photo above, but it’s standing to the right from there).

After our hearty lunch, we took some time to walk around the “Christmas wonderland” I mentioned before, which included a Santa’s grotto and a mailbox for posting letters to Santa. It was pretty cold, but fun walking around and exploring every corner of the square and the nearby streets until it was time to leave.

 
 

Our next stop was the much quieter village of Agnanta that offers stunning vistas to the mountains and the village itself on the opposite peak. The village is built on multiple levels, some houses standing on much lower ground edged by lush fields.

We had a quick coffee in Agnanta as the light of day waned fast, and soon were on our way back to our hotel in Arta, having admired the Christmas lights and a humble nativity scene once it got dark.

Visit my Facebook page to see all my photos from Pramanta and Agnanta.

Read all about the historical city of Arta and the chilling legend behind its stone bridge.

 

All this talk and pictures of snow-capped mountains made me think of these special low-fat cookies that I make every New Year. I call them ‘magic snowball cookies’ because in the oven they flatten and crack and take this mouthwatering shape.

They annually have pride of place on my New Year’s Eve table with the Vassilopita, i.e. the Greek traditional cake that contains a coin inside!

See this post for details and recipes for both these festive delicacies, and others too!

 

I will bid you adieu with this fun photo of my husband and me from the festive square in Pramanta. Merry Christmas, everyone! I will be speaking to you again a year later 😜 (Sorry, old family joke, couldn’t resist!) I meant, in January 😁 Till then, have fun and enjoy all things lovely and warm 🥰

 

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Rushing streams with trouts and beautiful nature. Welcome to Planitero in the Peloponnese!

Hello, All! Today, I am sharing about the beautiful village of Planitero in the Peloponnese. It’s a lush heaven of rushing streams with trout and plane trees! 🍃

 

The village of Planitero is located 25 km south east of Kalavryta and north east to the village of Klitoria. Nestled on the southwestern slopes of Mount Chelmos (Aroania) at an altitude of 700 m, it is a quiet little place of rushing streams and waterfalls within a lush plane tree forest.

Other than the remarkable beauty and serenity that it offers, the visitor is bound to also be appreciative of the culinary masterpieces on the menu at the local tavernas.

Take the one I chose during my visit, for example. Planiteros Restaurant is also a trout farm, and the menu reflects that. I went for the smoked trout, which was absolutely amazing.

The last time I had trout was at the village of Psarades, on the shore of the Big Prespa lake. The trout there was grilled to perfection and had been fished from the lake. We enjoyed it with a dish of locally produced broad beans drenched in a rich tomato sauce. It was an unforgettable culinary experience.

Having now had both the fresh and smoked variety, I can tell you that the fresh trout makes for a more hearty meal, since the fish can be huge on the plate, but the smaller-size portion of the smoked trout that I had at Planitero was simply mouthwatering.

We accompanied that with onion pie – a dish I had never tried before. Since that day, I looked online for traditional recipes and was able to make a mix-and-match version of my own. Pleased to say that the taste is very similar to the culinary masterpiece I sampled in Planitero! Go here to get my recipe for onion pie!

 

On the grounds of Planiteros Restaurant, punters can enjoy a nice little walk around the pools where the trouts are grown. Beautiful swans and ducks float or waddle around, and in the enclosures at the edge of the green there are cockerels and peacocks too. For one, the kids seemed to have a whale of a time seeing it all.

The snow-capped mountains in the distance completed the idyllic scene on that sunny spring day of my visit. Throughout our stay, the sound of rushing waters remained rich in our ears along with the chirping of the birds on the ancient plane trees.

Planitero is a truly blissful little place, and I highly recommend it for a visit. You can easily get there from Kalavryta. As I mentioned earlier, it is only 25 kms away.

On the day we enjoyed the beauty of Planitero, we also visited a majestic cave that has many lakes in it (and bats!). We also visited a beautiful mountain village called Vytina, that had a road dedicated to youngsters in love! You can read all about these places and see photos in this post.

Tap here to see my photos from Planitero!

Go here for the short video I took at the restaurant to show you around!

 

In case you haven’t heard of Kalavryta, it is an amazing mountain destination with equally beautiful nature, and great places of interest within short distance, including the seaside town of Diakofto – dont miss out the opportunity to take the famous cog train (odontotos) to Kalavryta from there, by the way! The route through the mountains is breathtaking.

 
 

Other places of interest near Kalavryta include The Agia Lavra Monastery where the Greek Revolution was declared in the 1820s, and the imposing Mega Spileo Monastery–the latter is unmissable (see photo above). Having been partly built inside a rockface, it even contains a cave!

Last but not least, the town of Klitoria that’s on the road to Planitero from Kalavryta is a must stopover for meat eaters. Roasted pork is the famous dish of the town and can be enjoyed at every restaurant there.

At the end of September, every year, the locals at Klitoria organize a pork feast where dozens of whole pigs are put over the fire to be enjoyed to the sound of Greek clarinet (clarino) music.

Truly, the Peloponnese is a place of many radiant gems to be discovered, and I haven’t really been all over, but I feel blessed to have been to many parts already.

Have you ever been to the Peloponnese? Of so, which parts? Make sure to add a comment and let me know. I’d love to hear from you!

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A majestic cave in the Peloponnese and a road for smooching

A visit to Kastria Cave (aka Cave Lakes)

Today, I am pleased to share photographs from the majestic Kastria Cave (aka Cave Lakes) in the area of Kalavryta.

The cave system is vast and only a small part of it is open to visitors.

We had an enthralling tour for about 30 minutes, exploring the small part of the cave that is open to the public. The main reason why the rest of it will remain out of reach is to ensure its preservation, as well as the survival of its fauna that thrives there for thousands of years.

There are ten bat species in the lakes, something I wasn’t exactly pleased to be told before entering🫣Immediately, my mind conjured up an image of Jim Carrey’s Pet Detective bolting out of a cave that was full of bats and guano and screaming!

Ha ha. Luckily, I didn’t have to do that. The tour guide said we might find droppings on the ground, and said not to photograph any bats if we happen to see them. Again, I was spared from any encounter of the sort 🙃

But, actually, the guano is useful in the caves, as it becomes food for other species, including three endemic ones: a scorpion, a beetle and a spider. These, along with an endemic cricket, have survived safely inside the caves for millenia.

More than 18,000 bats live in the caves. When I found that out I felt even luckier I never saw a single one LOL!

 

This was not my first visit to a cave. I have been to the impressive Lake Melissani in Kefalonia and the beautiful Diros Caves in the Peloponnese (both explored by boat).

But, entering the Kastria Cave, I was stunned. Nothing could have prepared me for the staggering size of the chambers. I’d never seen a cave before clothed in every way with such sheer magnificence.

I kept looking up and marvelling at the tall ceilings and the beautiful formations from that very first chamber we entered.

The walking tour lasted for about thirty minutes. Walking on artificial bridges over the serene lake waters and going up and down steps, we explored a series of majestic chambers of incredibly high ceilings.

Some of the formations were really impressive, such as a series of natural ‘bathtubs’ that reminded me of those stone bathtubs one can find in luxury hotels in Aegean islands, like Santorini, which imitate natural cavernous spaces. Or, the much larger natural Kolibithres in Mikro Papigo, Zagori, that are out in the open and people can actually swim in them.

But the natural ‘bathtubs’ of the Kastria Cave are out of reach to the public, of course, and can only be viewed from a bridge at close distance. The guide on site told us all of them stay full of water in the winter. They had little to no water during our visit mid-April.

There are 13 lakes inside the cave. The total length is 1.980 meters, but only 500 meters are open to the public. The cave system is laid out on three different levels. Visitors walk along a short, sloped tunnel to enter the cave which takes them straight to the second level.

There are heavy security doors either side of the tunnel to ensure they stay shut in order to preserve the low temperature in the cave. You feel the sudden drop in temperature as soon as you enter.

The exploration of the Kastria Cave took place between 1964-1965. In 1981, it was handed over to the Greek Tourism Authority, and it has been open to the public since 1988.

Across from the entrance to the cave, in a beautiful court with greenery and trees, stands a small, yet interesting, museum. Various findings from excavations in the caves are housed there, including tools, and remains of animals (even those of a hippo!) from the Bronze and Neolithic eras.

All in all, it was a memorable and exciting visit, and if you’re in the area of Kalavryta, I highly recommend you check out this wonderful site.

The nearby village of Planitero is the perfect place for lunch if you’re visiting the area. Planitero is a stunning little village with trout farms and rushing river waters inside a plane tree forest. I did go there for lunch on the same day and you can see photos and read all about it in this post.

Here, I’d like to thank Perivassis Tourism & Τravel Services and our amazing tour guide, Katerina Liontaki, for another wonderful day spent under her wing, and also for her sending me some of her own photographs to post.

GO HERE to see all the pictures from Kastria Cave. Some of them are posters mounted inside the tunnel and depict speleologists. These photos show the cave and the lakes in all their splendour!

 

Vytina, a beautiful town with many treasures…

On the same day my husband and I visited Kastria Cave on the coach tour, we stopped at Vytina for coffee.

Vytina is a traditional settlement in the Peloponnese that has beautiful stone buildings. It is built at the foot of the mountain range, Mainalo.

Go here to see my pictures from Vytina.

We had coffee at the square in one of the many cafes beside a beautiful stone-built church. Then, we looked around the shops that sell traditional products, including the local honey variety that has a striking yellowish color.

It is called Elati Vanilia, and it is a treasure to the immune system, and also beneficial for a number of health issues.

We also found out that the region also produces a variety of marble that is named The Black of Vytina. Truly, it’s a blessed little place, with many treasures.

But that wasn’t all we discovered there. Thanks to our wonderful guide, who tipped us off, we then took a downward street from the square, looking for love…

And love, we did find, just a couple minutes later, getting into the most serene little road lined by trees that has a very special name 😍

 

This is a photo of me on ‘The Road of Love’ (O Dromos tis Agapis) in Vytina. It has been named thus by the locals because, for many generations, it has been the meeting place for young lovers to take a walk in the quiet.

The road stretches out into the distance, as far as you can see, with beautiful tall trees either side. There are hardly any houses around, just grassy fields and more trees.

Back in April when I visited, the distant snow-capped mountains were the perfect backdrop. The birdsong was ample and sweet in my ears. The grassy ground was strewn with tiny white flowers, including chamomile.

It all combined to create a sweet springtime memory that I will treasure forever.

I am at an age when I need nothing in terms of physical things. Most of the time, I don’t wish for a present anymore on the big days but always go for a meal out, or a day out in nature to celebrate, instead.

Beautiful memories is the only thing I seek when I think of exciting new ‘acquisitions.’

It is a privilege and an honor to share my experiences with you. Once again, I’d like to thank everyone who writes to tell me how they enjoy reading about my travels. You give me encouragement to keep on traveling and sharing!

Before I go, to share my big news. I just finished writing My Greek Island Christmas! What I can tell you is it got me and hubby (who is my forever eager editor) in the same places!

This means that if we laughed or cried in certain scenes, chances are you will too 😃 But it has a nice balance of humor, romance and family drama. Oh. And lots of Greek food. That blessed girl cooked every day in that farm in Santorini, and she kept me salivating 😛

Anyway, I am really pleased it’s done! Another baby of mine born, and the feeling is amazing every time 💗

GO HERE to check out the book and download a FREE sample! The book is available on preorder in various stores 🥳

Till next time, enjoy summer and keep reading amazing books!

Interested in discovering more places in the Peloponnese? Check out these posts next!

A cruise through the Corinth Canal and fun facts  https://effrosyniwrites.com/2024/10/25/corinth-canal-cruise-and-corfiot-pastitsada/

A stunning fresco at the Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and a mollusc with a royal secret https://effrosyniwrites.com/2024/11/08/fresco-isthmia-roman-baths-nero-corinth-canal/

Majestic views in Lake Doxa and an old secret school… https://effrosyniwrites.com/2022/12/09/majestic-views-secret-school/

 

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New! Clean Christmas romance. Two broken hearts. One magical holiday. A Santorini farm where anything can happen. 
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