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A stunning fresco at Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and the Corinth Canal

Today, I am pleased to share my photographs from the Isthmia Museum and Archeological site. The latter boasts the Roman Baths with the largest monochrome fresco in the eastern Mediterranean! And it is STUNNING, adorned with a variety of sea creatures (octopus, fish, lobster, squid, dolphin, sea snake) and mythological marine creatures too, including what looks like a Nereid and a Triton.

We happened to visit on the day that the ancient games of Isthmia were revived in the area for the first time, and we spotted in the museum two locals preparing the pine tree wreaths for the winners.

We left the place before the games began, so we didn’t see any sporting action.  But after seeing that breathtaking fresco, and with the cruise of the Corinth Canal as our next stop that day, we didn’t feel like hanging around LOL!

The museum was tiny but very interesting, with a plethora of artifacts in great condition that helped to imagine the everyday life of my ancient ancestors.

The archaeological grounds were mere ruins, nothing standing except for the Roman baths. We had to imagine the Temple of Poseidon, the stadium, and the other buildings we got to see only on signs, but the pine trees were ample – holy trees to Poseidon, apparently!

When I heard that from our guide, I wondered if this is why there are so many pine trees on Greek beaches. Or, maybe, it’s the other way around. The Greeks imagined Poseidon liked them seeing that they are often found so close to seawater. I guess we’ll never know, LOL!

The archaeological site is set on a hill that overlooks the bay. It is a short drive away from Isthmia where the Corinth Canal begins.

In my recent newsletter and blog post about my cruise through the Corinth Canal, I mentioned that the ancient Greeks had conceived the idea of the canal so the ships did not have to circumnavigate the Peloponnese to go to the other side of mainland Greece. However, their plans never turned into action as when they asked Zeus for permission to go ahead (via the high priestess and Oracle Pythia of Delphi), his reply was negative.

Still, that didn’t stop the Corinth tyrant Periander in the 7th century BC. He did try to dig for a canal but found the task far more demanding and expensive than he’d thought. So, he constructed a ‘diolkos’ instead, i.e. a passageway from one shore to the other that involved dragging the boats across the land on porous blocks.

Later, the Romans tried too. During the reign of Tiberius, another failed attempt was made in 32 AD but their equipment and know-how proved inadequate for this feat. They, too, settled for another solution, similar to the Greek ‘diolkos. The Romans went for an Egyptian mechanism that had been used previously to roll huge blocks of granite to build their pyramids. The boats rolled across the Isthmus upon tree trunks.

In 67 AD, philhellene Roman Emperor Nero ordered six thousand slaves to dig a canal with shovels. Most of them were Jewish pirates during the Jewish wars. Nero was so keen on the project he was the one to give the first blow to the land of the Isthmus with a golden pickaxe.

Sadly, he passed away the next year and the project was soon abandoned.

Today, a relief adorns the wall of the canal near Isthmia. It is on the side of the mainland, not the Peloponnese, i.e. on the right side as you begin the boat cruise from the Saronic Gulf (Isthmia) side. You will see it high up on the canal wall right next to an old stone base to a bridge over the canal that no longer exists.

It is a mystery as to who created this relief of Nero and when, but it is said to be a remnant from a temple built there in his honor.

It is sad it has been left to its fate as it continues to fight a losing battle with the elements, but here it is, a quickly fading image of the man who had the dream of the canal and went the furthest along than any other.

He was the most determined to do it, and he followed through, in a world that didn’t yet have the mechanical and technological marvels of today.

 

To hear more about the Corinth Canal, for fun facts, and to see photos, see this blog post.

 
 

All this talking about emperors made me think of the purpura mollusk and I have to tell you why!

This mollusk is an exquisite meze for Greeks in the know. It also carries an ancient secret related to royalty!

Porpura  derives its name from ‘porphura’, the dated Greek word for ‘purple’ (pronounced ‘porfeera’). This is the Greek name for this mollusk. In ancient times, they were used to extract the color purple, which was then used to dye the clothes of kings and emperors. The practice is 3,000 years old.

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A brave girl and a church with a secret in Kotsinas, Limnos

Maroula, the heroine of Kotsinas

We visited Kotsinas on a windy morning last month, during our stay on the island of Limnos. As soon as we reached the top of the small artificial hill we felt as if we were suddenly on the sea and no longer on land, thanks to the beautiful decoration of the place and the vast sea stretching out before us.

The rounded fence at the far end made the place resemble the bow of a ship. We felt almost like we were sailing on the tumultous sea below. And, if that were indeed a ship, then, undoubtedly, its name would be ‘Maroula’, a name greatly revered in Kotsinas, and on the entire island, as a matter of fact.

Maroula was an eighteen-year-old girl back in 1478, when the fort of Kotsinas was beseiged by Suleiman Pasha. Her father was a soldier defending the fort. When the Turks murdered him before her very own eyes, Maroula felt enraged. She picked up her father’s sword swiftly and began to charge against the Turks.

The other villagers, inspired by her amazing act of bravery, despite her being just a girl and so young, followed suit and attacked the Turks with great force, causing them to flee. At the time, the fort was occupied by Venetian forces, who defended the fort that day together with the locals.

Some sources claim that perhaps Maroula was the daughter or the wife of the slain fighter Georgios Makris. In any case, the bravery of Maroula has been praised by Italian writers, such as Sabelico, Coelius, Calcagnini, Fulgosius, and Vianoli as well as by Greek writers Kostis Palamas, Aristomenis Provelengios, Maria Lampadaridou-Pothou, and Anthony Soupios.

Today, the bronze statue of Maroula stands where the fort once used to be. It reminds the visitor that acts of tremendous bravery that involve love for family and country can never fade in the course of time, but continue to inspire the next generations for centuries to come.

As you can see, a beautiful little church, ‘Zoodohos Pigi’, stands on the same hilltop. The name in Greek, ‘Life-giving Spring’ is a dead giveaway for what hides deep underneath it…

Under the church begins a descent in search of holy water…

Before visiting Kotsinas, I had viewed travel videos from the place and I knew about the descent of about 60 steps that reaches deep down under the church, where the bowels of the fort once used to be.

The thought of experiencing this descent enthralled me. Sure, it also elicited an eerie feeling in me, but I was determined to suppress it and to actually do this!

Well, it was easier than I thought. The kindly lady I asked for directions at the church showed us the stairs and swiftly turned on the lights for us. It was an instant improvement of the view haha.

There was a rope to hold on to as the stone steps could prove slippery, or so we were told. But we had no such issues. From the top looking down, the passage seemed daunting and long, but our apprehension soon evaporated. It took way shorter a time than we’d thought to get to the tiny cavernous space at the bottom.

There is a small bucket you can use down there to get water from the well. People have left icons down there and they inspire the visitor towards prayer and concentrated thought.

I confess, I didn’t drink from the well, but I took some of the water in my hand to sprinkle on all the achy and ailing bits on my person that seem to get more and more in number as I age, LOL. So, after a short prayer to the Virgin Mary we took the steps back up to the top. The ascent was equally quick and didn’t require any great effort.

All in all, this was a wonderful experience in an unusual place that will stay with me forever. I highly recommend it!

GO HERE to see the photographs from our visit to Kotsinas.

For a video of the hilltop, go here

For a video of the well underground, go here

The famous ‘Lily of the Virgin Mary’ is strewn all over Kotsinas Beach

This beautiful lily can be found on the beaches in many parts of Greece, especially the southern coast of Crete. Personally, I have only ever seen it on the beach in Kotsinas, on Limnos island. When I visited it again this summer, it was mid August. The plants were in full bloom, making the beach scenery stunning against the backdrop of the foaming sea on that refreshing, windy day.

The Greeks often call this lily, ‘To krinaki tis Panagias’ (Lily of the Virgin Mary). The odd name is owed to the fact that this plant only blooms in the summer, including August, when The Virgin Mary is annually celebrated in Greece (on the 15th) .

The plant is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family and is a perennial bulbous plant. The Latin name is Pancratium maritimum, and it is known out of Greece with various names such as the sea daffodil, the sand lily or the lys de mer.

Its scent is heady and exotic, reaching the peak of its strength at the end of August. The fruit look like small pieces of charcoal that are so light they are taken by the wind and often seen floating on the seawater.

This lily is depicted on the ancient murals of the Palace of Knossos in Crete and also illustrated on the frescos and pottery of ancient Thira (Santorini). The Minoans in Crete regarded it as holy.

It isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, though. It also benefits the environment where it grows, helping to stabilize sand dunes, preventing erosion, and supporting the often fragile ecosystems where it blooms.

This precious flower has become quite rare these days because of increased tourism. The Council of Europe has declared it a rare and endangered species.

Please be cautious when walking on sand dunes to avoid stepping on them. Kindly think twice before picking them, and rather consider immortalising them in a photograph or two instead, just like I did, to remember them by!

 

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The Neolithic settlement on Kastoria lake and the rugged beauty of the island of Limnos

Good morning, everyone! Thrilled to share today about the oldest lake settlement in Europe. 7,600 years old! It is in Dispilio, on the lake of Kastoria.

I am off soon to the island of Limnos on vacation and reminiscing about my last visit there, back in 2020. I went to visit my father at our family home in the village of Lychna. Scroll down to see some of my photos. I hope they will bring sunshine to your day!

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A community of farmers and stockbreeders, 7,600 years ago…

I visited the area of Dispilio during my stay in Kastoria where I spent Easter this year.

Dispilio hosts an amazing Neolithic settlement on the lake of Kastoria.

It was fascinating, set in such a lush setting.

The huts are made of mud from the lake and straw – just like the farmers used to make them in the neolithic era. Inside, dummies and replicas bring their world to life.

As the visitor wanders from hut to hut using the wooden walkways, in places, they’re actually walking over water, as you can see in the picture below.

Here is a short video of the settlement.    The birdsong is busy and so sweet!

The phenomenon of settlements in prehestoric times on or beside lakes was first discovered in the 19th century where archaeologists found remains of such settlements on alpine lake regions in Switzerland and Germany.

References of such settlements in the north mainland of Greece are made largely in the work of ancient historian, Herodotus.

In 1932, during a dry winter, the water in the lake receded enough in Dispilio to reveal old wooden stakes – thus, for the first time indicating the presence of an ancient settlement on the lake.

In 1935, archaeologist Antonios Keramopoulos began preliminary excavation works, which, however, stopped quickly, as World War II was looming.

Finally, the settlement in Dispilio was officially found in 1992, during the excavation led by archaeologist Chourmouziadis.

Since then, other lake settlements have been investigated in the lakes of Florina, Lake Ochrid and in lake areas of North Macedonia and Albania.

Still, the lake settlement of Dispilio is the oldest one in Europe. 7,600 years old!

The population of the settlement in Dispilio were farmers and stockbreeders. They seem to have settled there in the Late Neolithic period (5612 BC – 5594 BC) and continued to reside in this area for another 2,500 years, until the end of the Neolithic period, in successive phases of habitation.

Everything the visitor encounters in the huts today are either replicas of actual finds or basic everyday items that help to bring this ancient world to life. The original artefacts are housed in the museum in Dispilio.

The excavation yielded many important finds that speak volumes for the lifestyle of this prehistoric population. These include:

  • Tools made of stone, bone and flint that indicated they were farmers, hunters and fishermen

  • Large clay storage jars and woven baskets

  • Cooking utensils, many of which boat-shaped

  • Jewellery made of bone and stone

  • A bone flute (one of the oldest musical instruments to be found in all of Europe)

  • Ceramics, wooden structural elements, seeds, bones, figurines and personal ornaments. The most famous figurine is The Lake Lady. It is made of clay and has the form of a pregnant woman.

The most incredible find of all is The Dispilio Tablet, an engraved wooden plaque found at the bottom of the lake dating back to 5260 BC and believed to be an early form of the written word that precedes Linear A (this hasn’t yet been decoded either).

Some of the symbols on the Dispilio Tablet are identical to ones found engraved on clay in other settlements in the Balkans.

On vacation mode (AKA Limnos, here I come!)

I am doing something new this year. I am not going to Corfu.

The photos I put together to show you today are all from my last visit there in 2020. My house is in the village of Lychna.

The village is tiny and only has one eaterie, but it happens to be one of the coolest and most sought after on the island. It has the strange name Ennoia Po’chs, which is incomprehensible even to the average Greek as it’s a saying from the local vernacular.

The proper Greek words would be ‘Ennoia pou eheis’ (loosely translated as ‘What do you care?’)

Even the people of Lychna need to prebook in this place as people come from all over the island every night. In one of the photos above, you can see its seating area and facade in our village’s tiny square. In another photo, you can see me sitting on the ledge of my grandfather George’s house (my dad’s dad). This house is across from the eaterie on the same square. It was passed on to aunties, and in time, to cousins of mine.

In another photo you can see my father showing me a series of fig trees he planted along the country road outside his property. He planted trees of various kinds in many parts of the village. I look forward to coming across them during my walks this August. I miss him beyond words every day, and the sight of these trees will provide much comfort in many years to come as they grow all the more bigger and taller.

The houses at Lychna are beautiful, built in the northern Aegean style – tall, with beautiful colours, patterns, and woodwork on their facades. But, somehow, the most enchanting to me is this tiny village house that I found hidden, like a gem, as I wandered around the village lanes. I included a photo of it above so you can take a peek. Such a humble beauty.

Lychna is a quiet place, all dressed in golden yellow in the summer. The dried wheat fields are dazzling under the strong sunlight, stretching far, all the way to the cobalt blue sea. I love these views. And the serenity is amazing. All you can hear all day is the rush of the wind at times, the clinking of the cow bells, and the clucking and crowing of hens and cockerels.

To be honest. I don’t particularly like the cockerels in the village as they wake me up from 6 a.m! But their crowing is lovely to hear at any other part of the day. So rustic haha

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A visit to the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion and beach fun in the Athens Riviera

Good morning, All!  I am reblogging today an old post with more information from my short break to the ‘Athens Riviera’ last summer. I also got to visit the imposing Temple of Poseidon in Cape Sounion, just in time to marvel at the famous sunset views it offers. Scroll down to see the book that I wrote, inspired by these places of alluring beauty!

SEE ALL THE PHOTOS HERE

My husband Andy and I drove to the Eastern coast of Attica to enjoy 3 days. This area is known as ‘The Athens Riviera’, seeing that it can be quite cosmopolitan in parts.

We stayed in a lovely hotel in Varkiza which provided an excellent location for nearby trips to the fabulous beaches at Lagonissi and Anavyssos for a swim. One evening, we went to the furthest tip of the eastern coast, all the way to Cape Sounion, to see the sunset from the ancient Temple of Poseidon.

I felt compelled to take my debut novel, The Necklace of Goddess Athena, with me! I wanted to honour the story since the temple and the sunset are heavily featured in the climax of the story. But I won’t say more so I don’t give any spoilers, obviously!

When I visited Anavyssos for a swim I took this short video , to show you the big crossroads by the beach. It features in The Necklace of Goddess Athena at a crucial part of this YA/NA mythical urban adventure. I thought it might please the readers among you who loved the book to see the real place!

DID YOU KNOW?

A. The Temple of Poseidon was chosen as one of the Greek locations in the popular TV series “The Little Drummer Girl” starring Florence Pugh and Alexander Skarsgard.

B. Lord Byron, who had two long stays in Athens between 1809-1811, visited Cape Sounio more than once during this time. On one of his visits, he carved his name in the temple base. See if you can spot it among the other ancient carvings left on this world-famous landmark!

Phevos, a 20-year-old from ancient Greece, time-travels to today’s Athens, arriving shocked and confused… His mysterious father has just sent him there without any explanation. Soon, he makes new friends, discovers old family secrets, and gets ensnared in a war between two Olympian Gods…

VISIT AMAZON

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A day out in the ‘Seychelles of Greece’, plus… a delicious weed!

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The “Seychelles of Greece” delivered the promise

We recently had a day trip to Lichadonissia, a small cluster of volcanic islands between the shores of Kamena Vourla and the northwest tip of the island of Evia.

To get there, we travelled by coach with a local tour operator to the spa town of Kamena Vourla, then hopped onto a taxi boat that took us to Lichadonissia in just a few minutes.

According to Greek mythology, Lichadonissia took their name from Lichas, a man connected to the myth of Hercules.

Hercules’s wife was the jealous type. Thinking he had cheated on her, she sent Lichas to give Hercules a poisonous tunic (chiton) to wear in order to take revenge on him. When Hercules put it on, he suffered terrible pains. Full of rage, he grabbed Lichas and hurled him into the sea, and as his body parts scattered when he hit the water they formed the Lichadonissia. Stroggyli, the distinctive island of the complex that has a round shape, is Lichas’s head according to the legend.

In scientific terms, the story is different, of course. Some 500,000 years ago, a volcanic eruption formed the Lichadonissia, and it is believed that Stroggyli was where the crater used to be. Stroggyli, as its name suggests, has a rounded shape. It is fully covered by vegetation and a lighthouse stands on it, placed there a few decades ago by a French company.

You can see Stroggyli and the other Lichadonissia islands in my photographs. I have included a couple that I found online which show them from high above – truly stunning images that make you want to dive straight in for a swim.

The skipper gave us a wonderful tour, bits of which I will share a little later in this artcle. I’ll just squeeze in here a cool fact that he told us:

Aidipsos (a nearby town in Evia) and Thermopylae (you may know it as the Hot Gates where Leonidas and the 300 fought the Persians) both owe their natural hot springs to the volcanic eruption at Lichadonissia.

He said that the distances from Lichadonissia to these two places are equal. This is a clear indication that it was indeed this volcanic eruption that blessed both Aidipsos and the Hot Gates with this unique therapeutic gift of nature that keeps on giving, hundreds of thousands of years later.

Here I am, trying to show you just how clear the water is in Lichadonissia and probably failing. But perhaps this video will show it more clearly. You’ll also get to hear the sounds of cicadas and the excited squeals of children that complete this idyllic scene of Greek summer bliss.

This video is super-short. Turn up the volume 🙂

The island where we spent two hours swimming and sunbathing is the biggest of the complex and it’s called Monolia. The setting was clearly volcanic, the beach strewn with large volcanic boulders, but in the middle of the bay there was this perfect small stretch of sand. There is a small beach bar and the umbrellas and deckchairs are free. We were made up!

It was just a perfect interval of two hours that ended much too soon. I would have been happy to stay there all day, just swimming and napping.

If you’re interested to go there, you could combine your visit with a stay in the spa seaside town of Kamena Vourla (about 2 hours drive from Athens). Every day, taxi boats go back and forth from there to Lichadonissia.

When we left Monolia beach, the skipper took us around Lichadonissia to show us other locations of interest. The first one was this small settlement on the island of Monolia. Just a few decades ago, some families tried to settle there. They even built a church, Agios Georgios (it’s the smaller building on the left of this photo, half-hidden under the trees).

They tried to sustain themselves in this inhospitable land without electricity or running water. They tried the best they could, including collecting rainwater, but the hardships they faced proved impossible to handle. In the end, just a few years later, they gave up and left. These hollow decrepid buildings stand like vigils on the island still, telling a silent sad story of trial and defeat.

Still, I wasn’t too sad about the people when I found out they hadn’t gone too far. Together with people from other areas of northern Evia, they formed a brand new village that flourished and still thrives today.

I’ll tell you about that village, which I also visited, in a moment. Keep on reading… I have something amazing to show you, which I discovered during the same tour…

Image credit to ERTNEWS.GR

This is Pioneer I, the fully submerged shipwreck of Lichadonissia – a German boat that was bombed during WWII.

The skipper stopped our boat right above it, and it felt eerie but enthralling too. It looked so white in parts under the crystal clear water, like time had never touched it.

The boat was made of reinforced concrete. This craftmanship for making ships was developed by the Nazis in WWII. Concrete was cheaper than iron and steel, easier to find, and ships could be built a lot faster too.

Pioneer I sunk on july 8, 1944 and lies at a depth of about 10 meters.

It is said that it carried war provisions and guns to supply the islands and also the German troops in North Africa.

Today, the shipwreck has become a magnet to tourists but also other creatures… Would you believe, this place hosts a small population of Monachus Monachus seals (aka monk seals)! The skipper pointed, and we all caught a glimpse of not just one but two seals swimming near the shipwreck. I was so pleased, as I didn’t expect this.

Go here to watch this mesmerising short video I found on Youtube.

You will see the seals, the shipwreck, and the islands from a drone, and also divers going underwater to explore the ship! I loved this video, and I think you’ll love it too. If only for the sunshine and the cute sounds of the seals!

Agios Georgios, a village of avid fishermen!

After our enthralling short cruise around Lichadonissia, we set sail to the northwest tip of Evia. A few minutes later, we entered the harbour of Agios Georgios.

This is the village that was partly founded by the people who had abandoned the small settlement I mentioned earlier. And this time, they picked a spot that guaranteed a more comfortable, prosperous life.

I noted that the village was named after St George, the same saint to whom the people had dedicated the small church at the abandoned settlement.

Agios Georgios is a thriving village today that is sustained mostly by the work of its able fishermen. They are renowned for their catch of local fish, and especially sardines. These able, busy fishermen are well networked, too. Within record times from catching the fish, it arrives to be sold in the central fish markets of Athens!

Agios Georgios is small and idyllic, and seems to be a fantastic place for a quiet beach holiday. It is situated within short distance from other wonderful destinations of Evia, like the spa town of Aidipsos, Istiaia, as well as a bunch of wonderful monasteries too.

There are small hotels on the beach, nothing huge and fancy, which was wonderful to see, and some of the local houses on the seafront are whitewashed and very quaint. I fell in love with a specific corner that looked and even smelled (some herb or flower I guess!) like the lanes at my beloved Messonghi village on Corfu. It made me homesick. I sat on a ledge in the shade to take in the atmosphere for a while and didn’t want to leave ha ha

We ate in the highly recommended taverna Antonis, a couple minutes walk from the port, that offered anything the heart could possibly desire. Meats, fish, seafood, and cooked meals too. Everything we sampled was delicious. But, before we ate, we made sure to have a little dip in the sea first, just outside the taverna.

The water looked inviting and the shingles on the shore made that irresistible sound that reels me right in. It was around 2 o’clock, very hot, and we were famished by then, so we didn’t stay long, but that swim will stay indellible in my mind forever.

It was the perfect beach for me, not just because I love beaches with shingles (the sound of seawater rushing through the shingles is one of my favourite sounds in the whole world!) but also because the water became deep quickly. We don’t often get to swim in beaches like this. It was a true gem, and if I ever get the chance to return there for a day or two I’ll go running. If only, to try some more of that fresh sardine!

Purslane is too good to give to the pigs!

An American friend told me once they call purslane ‘pigweed’ in their neck of the woods. Not sure if this is true in other parts of the States as I’ve seen pictures of other weeds online that are called pigweed too.

In any case, I expect purslane is eaten by pigs. I know chickens love it. But, if you have animals, and love to recycle your weeds by throwing it to them, do think twice! Like in the case of dandelion, that I know rabbits love to eat for example, purslane is packed with nutrients too precious to miss out on!

First off, it has the highest levels of omega-3 fatty acids of any land-based plant. The omega-3 fatty acids keep the arteries healthy and thus help prevent strokes, heart attacks, and other forms of heart disease. Purslane also contains nutrients that protect from cancer and also benefit the bones and the liver. It contains many vitamins and important minerals like calcium and magnesium. It even helps the overweight and obese to lose weight! I mean, it is a precious gift of nature that, unlike medicine and supplements, is perfectly safe, without any side effects, costs nothing, and is waiting for you, right now, in your garden!

I love to eat it raw in a salad with tomato and cucumber. For the dressing, I use salt, olive oil and a generous amount of red wine vinegar.

I cook it too, in a recipe with chicken that I partucularly enjoy all summer when the front patch of my garden is full of purslane.

As I stated earlier, I love it raw. Purslane is succulent and fresh with a wonderful texture and taste, but when cooked, it acquires a totally different tang that’s all the money!

GO HERE to see my recipe and learn more. Enjoy!

 

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The village of Nymfaio and the bear sanctuary of Arcturos

Nymfaio, Florina

I visited the village of Nymfaio during my stay over Easter in Kastoria.

This village is situated in the prefecture of Florina (Greek region of west Macedonia). You will find it on Mount Vernon (Vitsi) at an altitude of 1.350 m.

According to UNESCO, Nymfaio is one of the ten most picturesque villages of Europe!

Truly, its name, that means ‘The Land of the Nymphs’ is befitting to this enchanted place that is graced by lush forestland and precious wildlife too.

Nymfaio was a delight to my eyes as I walked through it, along its cobblestone paths. The stonework and the classy old architecture on some of the buildings were just breathtaking, and I invite you to look at my photos on Facebook and see for yourselves.

By far, the most imposing edifice was the Nikeios School, an architectural marvel that nowadays operates as a conference Hall of Thessaloniki’s Aristotelian University.

We followed the many helpful signs to the Arcturos bear sanctuary as we made our way through the village past quaint dwellings and a piazza with charming eateries and cafes. Soon, we exited the village and came upon a path that ran through a marvelous beech forest…

This is me tip-toeing in the woods while looking out for bears haha

The beauty of the beech forest was remarkable. It literally took my breath away, which meant I couldn’t run (ha ha) when I read the sign that told me I was in bear country! Let me repeat that: Wild bears were actually roaming free where I was walking, folks! The sign said I ought to keep quiet, which suited me just fine!

I mean, who wants a bear to know you’re nearby, right?

Yes. I will admit that, for a few moments, I panicked to know I had entered a place where a bear might appear at any moment.

Andy and I were taking photos back in Nymfaio as we speedily followed the guide – but we still had fallen behind the others in the coach group. Most of the people had gone well ahead of us and there were only a few, the most aged naturally, lagging way behind us, as we all made our way to the bear sanctuary. So, we were walking alone, my hubbie and I, and I didn’t like it one bit.

But then, I thought, Oh well. I never heard on TV of anyone getting attacked by a bear in this country, so my chances are good. You know?

So, I cast my trepidation aside and, after that, I thoroughly enjoyed my walk (about 15-20 minutes, as I recall) in this mesmerisingly beautiful setting.

When we reached a cabin amidst the forest that served as the office and gift store of Arcturos, I was pleased to reunite with familiar faces from the group.

Before I relay the details of my visit to the bear sanctuary, to tell you a little about Arcturos:

The name Arcturos means ‘Bear Watcher’ in ancient Greek, the name for bear being ‘Arctos’, by the way. And that is why the Arctic is called the Arctic, folks!

Arcturos is a non profit, non governmental, environmental organization (NGO) founded in 1992, focusing on the protection of wildlife fauna and natural habitat, in Greece and abroad. They have sanctuaries in Nymfaio for both bears and wolves in two different locations amidst the forestland near the village.

A guide took us into the forest, asking us to speak in whispers and to turn off the sound on our phones.

Arriving shortly later in a wooden construction with a roof and rows of seats we were invited to sit and enjoy a short presentation from the guide.

He was very pleasant, eloquent, and highly informative about the work of Arcturos and the bears themselves. Many of the facts I learned about the bears (brown bears, as the case is!) were very surprising.

One of them was that they actually never attack humans unless provoked and that they shy away from noise. He said, if you’re walking in the wild and you want to avoid brown bears, all you have to do is make some noise. The easiest thing, he said, is to play some music on your phone, and they’ll go far from you.

He didn’t say which kind of music, though. I mean, heavy metal or that cursed trap music that sounds like screeching cats would certainly do the trick. But soothing melodies like songs by Michael Bolton or Celine Dion? Now, that music may actually entice them closer to come lie down for a nap haha

“Music hath charms to soothe the savage beast”, after all 🙂

Anyway, here are some of the facts I recall from that awesome presentation:

When Arcturos is notified that a bear is being abused or in need of assistance, they collaborate with the authorities to rescue it and bring it to the bear sanctuary. This oftentimes takes place in other countries too, like Turkey or Bulgaria, where, to this day, it is still common to find a bear being abused in a circus or put in a cage outside a store or at a petrol station, in order to attract customers. So cruel, but sadly true, and it made me very sad to hear it.

But thank goodness for Arcturos. According to the presenter, there are no circuses left in Greece today that use bears, and I was relieved to hear it. I remember about 10 years ago, a circus had come in town on two different occasions, and they used animals. It was an Italian circus I will not name. I had complained to the council both times and was shocked to find they had no idea that animals in circuses were abused. The second time they assured me they wouldn’t allow another circus act with animals in town again and were, in time, proven true to their word.

To hear Arcturos had worked so hard to educate people so that animal acts in circuses have now completely been a thing of the past in my country was wonderful news to hear.

Our guide said they give the bears names in the sanctuary, and separate the males from the females. They also spay and neuter them, as the sanctuary is just a safe haven for them and only them to spend the rest of their lives in to the end. They are not to breed more bears in captivity, or to be released in the wild. The last is not a cruelty, but a mercy, because, having known slavery for most of their lives, it would be impossible for them to survive alone out there.

The staff at the sanctuary take care of their every need. They give them all the kinds of food they need, and they never go hungry. They have medical care, and especially the old bears get to live longer, because they go without nothing. In the wild, old bears cannot hunt, so die soon after they stop having the use of their eyes or their legs. An adult bear often has to cover long distances every day in search of food.

Another thing that surprised me to hear is that bears don’t hibernate as such, but rather fall into a deep sleep. Their bodies do not grow cold or rigid and their strong sense of smell remains fully alert. They will readily wake up if needed.

A bear can smell humans from far away, even while it is sleeping in the winter.

A note on the food – the people at Arcturos make sure to simulate life in the wild as much as possible, and in this sense, start to give the bears less and less food when it’s time to go into their deep sleeep, as it is the lack of food in the wild that biologically triggers this long sleep in their system.

After the presentation, we were led to the area where the bears are kept behind fences and buzzing electrical wires. Most of them were napping under the trees, and a couple approached lazily behind the fence the curious humans who looked at them with wonder. The bears seemed peaceful, and used to human presence. There was no sign of agitation, the way you often see wild animals behaving in a zoo, and I was pleased to see that.

We were told that all the bears had been rescued from zoos and cages outside stores, in Greece and abroad. Knowing they had found a safe heaven in this beautiful forest where they could stay forever, never to be alone, never caged or chained again, and with all their needs met, made my heart sing.

Before departure, I visited the gift shop, and made sure to support Arcturos with some purchases, hoping what little I spent would help them save more bears and more wolves in future. By the way, they don’t stop there, you know! They also save deer, otters, jackals, and other creatures of the wild!

I have a little bear figurine and an Arcturos mouse pad on my desk as I type this, and they remind me of the rescued bears every day.

To hear more about Arcturos and to support this wonderful cause with a purchase or a donation, please visit their website.

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Freshwater fish in Kastoria, a lunch under Meteora and natural beauty in Grevena

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Freshwater fish extravaganza!

All species seemed to be represented in the numerous tanks of the Aquarium of Kastoria, the biggest aquarium in the Balcans for this type of fish.

Among the exhibits I was pleasantly surprised to also find lobsters and even newts.

In a previous post, I shared a little about my trip to the Prespes lakes and a particularly delicious meal of trout I had on the shore of the Big Prespa. The other fish option on the menu, also fished locally, was ‘grivadi’ – a word I hadn’t heard before. I asked the waitress what it tastes like.

She said it has a very acquired taste, and thus, advised me to have the trout instead. So, I took her advice, and really enjoyed my meal. But the word ‘grivadi’ stuck in my head, and I promised myself to look it up or even attempt to find it in a store back home so I can try it some other time.

I didn’t have to wait long to find out what it is!

Among the exhibits in the Aquarium of Kastoria, during the same journey, I saw ‘grivadi’ fish swimming in a large tank! The sign told me so, and the English name mentioned on it was ‘cyprinus’. I did recognise this word, and from what I can remember, I’ve never actually eaten this fish.

My curiosity satiated, I moved on to the next tanks, and then, I found out that the Koi fish is a type of ‘grivadi’ (Cyprinus) too!

Needless to say, I was appalled.

KOI? I almost ate KOI?

I am still laughing thinking about it. For some reason, it shocked me to think people eat at the Prespes Lakes a type of fish that dwells as mere decoration in garden fountains in other parts of the world.

My mind swiftly concocted the image of a lady in a posh mansion somewhere sending her maid to the fountain in the garden with a net to go catch lunch for her and the lord.

Ha ha.

As I said, I found the notion hilarious and considered myself lucky. So glad I had the trout, folks. So glad 🙂

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Beautiful Greece…

Pleased to share today some more pictures from the coach trip of last Easter – from 2 stop overs where we enjoyed some marvelous vistas. We made the first stop for lunch at the city of Kalabaka that is crowned by the majestic Meteora.

Sadly, we had no time to visit a monastery that day and when we returned to the area on our way to Athens it was Easter Monday and the monasteries were closed to visitors.

I visited two of the most renowned monasteries of Meteora in the far past–an unforgettable experience–so I wasn’t too sad about this. Plus, I know I am bound to return another time to visit them again 🙂

I couldn’t have enough admiring (and taking pictures of) the iconic rock formations from the coach window and especially during our stop over at the restaurant Theoxenia, just out of Kalabaka. It was a great restaurant, by the way, with a wonderful buffet, where we got to enjoy gigantes and briam. Yummy.

We made another short stop that day on the way to our hotel in Kastoria. It was in the middle of nowhere in the area of Grevena where we caught people diving in for a swim in a serene river. The rock formations there were smooth and just as stunning, so reminiscent of Meteora. I had no idea Grevena is so beautiful… I was so pleasantly surprised.

Truly, Greece is gorgeous wherever you go! So much fuss is made over the islands, and rightfully so, but the mainland holds tremendous treasures that only savvy tourists know about. I’ve been travelling around Greece all my life, and I am still amazed by how diverse it is.

It offers so many different kinds of landscapes, and many are just not what the average tourist expects to find in Greece. I don’t care how biased this seems – I will say it: What an amazing country this is! The more I travel in it, the more I realize the surprises it has in store are simply inexhaustible.

Check out my travel report from the city of Kastoria and its alluring lake views!

 

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Prespes Lakes and Greek broad beans in tomato sauce (gigantes)

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The Prespes Lakes under the rain….

I wanted to visit the Prespes Lakes all my life, and thus was a little gutted to arrive with drizzling rain there last month!

Still, the vistas were so fantastic and the energy of the place so compelling I soon forgot it was raining as I walked about carefree, sans unbrella…

At the Small Prespa Lake, we took the bridge to the tiny isle of St Achilleios (Acchiles). The air was fresh and full of birdsong. The isle was lush all over as you can see in the photographs.

In the short time we had we managed to visit the remains of the Basilica of St Acchileios dating from the 10th century.

A short ride on the coach later, we arrived at the fishing village of Psarades on the shore of the Big Prespa Lake where we enjoyed trout on the BBQ and a plate of locally farmed broad beans (gigantes) in a rich tomato sauce.

Above, you can see the table where we sat. I was instantly drawn to this corner as I loved the painting of the Big Prespa Lake. And that says a lot because on the other side of the seating area there was a woodstove burning, which would have been nice, seeing we arrived to eat rather damp all over haha

Walking around the village after our meal didn’t take long as it is tiny, and it looked rather forlorn that day – hardly any locals or tourists about. Water buffaloes and rare species of dwarf cows were grazing by the lake. It all made for a thrilling sight. All the while, it didn’t stop drizzling with rain, and it was pretty chilly too, but nothing could mar the experience for me.

The Prespa Lakes are on the Greek border to the countries of Albania and North Macedonia. Greece shares the Small Prespa with Albania, and the Big Prespa with Albania and North Madedonia.

Delicious Greek ‘giants’

‘Gigantes’ means giants, and this is the cute ‘ name the Greeks use for broad beans.

Coming back home from the Prespes Lakes, I brought a big pack of gigantes with me, which I’d bought from a local producer on the shore of the Small Prespa. It doesn’t get better than that, I guess, to get the real deal, as the Prespes beans are famous in Greece.

The taste was superb, just like the meal tasted during that taverna meal I mentioned earlier. I included celery (the thick variety, not the slim Greek one) and it gave the meal the exact taste I recall from that taverna meal. GO HERE to get the recipe. It includes mentions to two different variations you can try! Each uses different ingredients that provide a totally new experience every time.

 

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The waterfalls of Edessa, a ‘pink sea’, and Apostle Paul’s podium. A Greek travel post

The Waterfalls of Edessa

Today, I thought I’d share some of my photos from Edessa’s world famous Waterfalls Park. Edessa is the capital of Pella in northern mainland Greece (region of Macedonia).

The waters of Edessa’s waterfalls used to power factories in town in the early 20th century, like the Kanavourgio rope factory and the Old Hemp Factory. Both these are standing derelict today, ghostly reminders of their former industrial glory.

But, the waters still run today with the same incredible force!

Watch this super short video of the waters running and crank up the volume!

The waters originate from the snow on Kaimaktsalan mountain situated 35 kms from the town of Edessa.

The waterfalls park is vast – 100,000 square meters. Its biggest waterfall, Karanos, is 70 meters in height – the biggest in Greece. I can attest to the fact it is very impressive, especially as the visitors can stand up close, right behind the water curtain! Things can get a little misty under there, I tell you. I visited in December, but gladly it was safe to stand there without actually getting wet LOL

There is a cave near that spot where you can purchase a ticket (I believe around 2 euros) to have a guided little tour inside. We gave that a miss as we had limited time to spend and preferred to enjoy the beautiful nature as much as possible.

Another great sightseeing spot in the waterfall park is the Open Air Water Museum (Industrial Museum with watermills – factories).

There is also an aquarium (with fish and reptiles) in the grounds, but it was closed during our visit – we were there in the late afternoon, close to nightfall, but I suspect it’s not open in the winter anyway.

So, basically, if you’re planning to visit, plan to stay for ample time, and if possible, visit in the summer to take full advantage of the various sights on offer.

Go here to watch a short video of the WaterFalls Park taken with a drone. It’s breathtaking!

Believe it or not, this space of enthralling natural beauty used to be completely unknown to people before WWII – just a vast space of unexplored vegetation, out of bounds to everyone.

It seems we have the Nazis, of all people, to thank for helping to make this place accessible to visitors today!

The Germans were the first to realize there was a touristic potential to this place. So, work began to make the place accesible and tidy. But not all workers were eager… Each morning, a Nazi sergeant called Fritz used to block all the ways leading to the square, then took away the identity cards of the men who asked for access telling them if they wanted to get them back they had to give a hand at the worksite at the waterfalls!

In the summer of 1942, two swimming pools, several paths, and the first flower beds were available for people to enjoy.

After the end of the war, the place was given to the municipality of Edessa and more work was done to the gardens. When the civil war broke out the waterfalls were forgotten anew, except for the farmers of “Loggos” district, who enjoyed having their bath there…

In 1953, the construction of the restaurant Pisines (Pools) was finished on the site, allowing the locals to gather there to celebrate with a lot of dancing!

The city of Edessa is fun and stunning, waters everywhere, and it is also impressive to behold as you approach town on the country road. It is set high on a precipice, its buildings playing hide and seek behind the dense trees as one approaches. I fell in love with it at first sight. it is a bustling city with an incredible vibe. This was a short visit, and we went around only a little, and only after nightfall. Sadly, we missed a chance to visit the stunning old quarter of Varosi, but surely next time.

Next to the central market, in the centre of Edessa, you will find the Small Waterfalls – another beautiful spot of running waters to enjoy during your coffee break or after a spot of shopping.

This town has bridges all over the place and the sound of running water is never far from your ears as you explore it. A truly, blessed place…

GO HERE TO SEE ALL MY PHOTOS FROM EDESSA

Image credit to discoververia.gr

The pink sea of Veria

When we went to Edessa we also made a stopover in the town of Veria for lunch and a walk about. We stopped at a spot called Elia (Olive Tree) that consisted of a square with a couple of cafes/eateries, beautiful neoclassical buildings, a small green and a ‘balcony’ with a view to beautiful plains.

Veria produces many fruits in these plains;  mainly apricots, but also cherries, kiwis et al.

We visited out of season in December, but as we drove past the plains the beautiful purplish pink tint of the apricot trees still kept catching my eye.

In March, the beauty of the plains catapults to new heights. The plains transform into a sea of pink, and the sweet smell of the apricot blooms is in the wind. Leaving Veria with the best impressions, even without having witnessed this miracle of nature, made me promise to myself to return in the spring the second time round.

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The Bema (Podium) of Paul the Apostle in Veria has been preserved well by its people

Veria was hailed ‘Little Jerusalem’ in Byzantine times because of its association with Apostle Paul and over time 70 churches were constructed there, 51 of which still stand today.

Apostle Paul visited Veria at least twice during the period between 50 AD and 57 AD to spread the good news about Jesus Christ. The people of Veria and the Jews welcomed him enthusiastically each time.

Today, the steps are preserved and a beautiful monument has been built there to honour the place where the Apostle once stood to preach. It attracts multitudes of visitors from all over the world.

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Beautiful nature at Litochoro Pierrias and a monastery on Mt Olympus

The monastery of St Dionysios of Olympus is situated in the perfecture of Pierria, 3 km from the town of Lithochoro.

I had the pleasure to visit the monastery twice in the recent months (as well as the nearby town of Litochoro, which I’m also sharing about today).

I first visited last December when I traveled to Edessa and Pozar baths (I will be sharing about those amazing places soon, by the way!) and my second visit was during my trip to Salonica (Thessaloniki) last January.

The monastery was very quiet, and I only got to see one monk in the whole place! I later discovered that there is a restricted area where the monks live and work, which is not accessible to visitors. So, I guess they were all busy at the time! Apparently, they have many talents. They create icons, woodcraft, incense, candles and also pass the time gardening, binding books, tending to bees and even making cheese!

It is no surprise, therefore, that their gift shop, situated near the entrance, is one of the most interesting I have ever seen in a monastery, offering a wealth of different kinds of merchandise, including incense in various heavenly aromas, dried herbs, and, yes, cheeses too, and other delicatessen items. I came out carring bags of various lovely things, and I only wish they had an e-shop so I can restock 🙂

There were various buildings to admire as we walked around, with the operational church being by far the most prominent structure. The decoration inside, and the large icons of Jesus and the Virgin Mary before the templon were impressive.

In a small chapel inside the church on the right side, there is also a big icon of St Dionysios.

The monastery had beautiful greenery and pots with vibrant flowers, making it a pleasure to photograph. We ambled here and there, listening to birdsong, being surrounded by forestland. The only people were those in our coach group. Both times, the experience was the same, and just as enchanting.

Going up some steps, we visited the museum that is housed in a small building, manned by one monk, who sat near the entrance at a desk, screens before him, surveilling all the different spaces via cameras. It was an odd sight, and quite a striking contrast, to see a monk handling the high technology of today, but that was soon forgotten, once I ventured further inside where I got to marvel at the religious artifacts and the relics on display.

Truly, never before, had I seen so many housed in one place.

The artifacts were intricate, so beautiful and impressive, and the holy relics were more than I could imagine I would ever see – all belonging to various saints and even apostles.

It was forbidden to take photographs in there but you can see some of the artifacts on this page of the monastery’s website.

The monastery was founded in 1950 after the destruction of the original monastery by the Germans in 1943 at a different location, in the gorge of Enipeas river. The ruins still stand today. St Dionysios had built the original fortified monastery in 1542.

During his life, the saint lived in many different caves on Mt Olympus. His holy relic lies today in a grave inside one of those caves, and there is also a spring with holy water. According to the monastery, to this date, the miracles the saint performs continue as he answers the prayers of the faithful…

GO HERE to see all my photos from the monastery.

Litochoro was stunning… Beauty everywhere…

Hard to believe that a town so near Mt Olympus is also near the sea!

I never got to see its coast, but during my visits there I had a good wander around and encountered the beauty of nature in all its glory. Majestic snowcapped mountain peaks, tall forest trees, a river, and even a large reservoir awaited me there, all gleaming under the glorious sunlight.

At the main car park where our coach left us, there is a paved path that leads to lower ground.

It led us to Enipeas river, after just a couple minutes’ walk. At its bank, visitors can enjoy food and drink at two quaint cafes as well as a restaurant run by a coop of the local women of the town.

It was a beautiful place to walk around in and enjoy the beauty of nature.

But that wasn’t all. We also found a stunning park next to the town’s maritime museum, just a stone’s throw away from the car park.

It had a large body of water that made it really special. Apparently, this vast reservoir is not for swimming, hence it’s fenced all around. The water is used for irrigation purposes.

Edged by forest trees, the park was the perfect place to sit on a bench after a slap up meal, listen to the chirping birds and gaze at Mt Olympus. Its peaks were snowcapped, a marvel to behold.

I felt really envious of the locals. City folk may feel blessed enough if they can sit at a park in their town with a fountain nearby, gazing at a few trees. The people of Litochoro have a large reservoir at the center of this massive green space, and the majestic Mt Olympus, no less, to rest their eyes upon. Truly fortunate folk!

Wow, right?

As I stated earlier, I visited Litochoro twice in the recent months. I plan to return to Macedonia again and again (many places I’ve always wanted to see over there!) and as Litochoro offers a well-timed stopover for lunch on the way back to Athens I look forward to stopping by there again, half a chance I get.

If you happen to be in the area, do not miss the chance to discover it too. The people are hospitable, and the food on offer at the restaurants makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

We went to the restaurant ‘Hairi’ on the roundabout the first time (you’ll see it all decorated for the holidays in the photographs). It’s at the end of the uphill road that you get to if you turn right from the car park. A short walk away of less than 5 minutes. Well, it depends on how hungry you are, I guess, LOL

The second time, we went to the restaurant ‘Ta Mezedakia’ that is situated right at the edge of the car park. It’s very popular, so if you want to go there, don’t go wandering first and leave it for later. As we sat at its tiny balcony, there were people standing on the other side of the railing on the street, waiting for us to finish so they could come sit. There is a large seating area inside and it was all packed!

I combined both visits into one set of photographs, and I included ones of both the restaurant buildings. This way you can go straight to them if you’re ever there. Either of them will satisfy you if you have a serious case of the munchies like we did LOL

GO HERE to see all my photos from Litochoro.

 

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