The Neolithic settlement on Kastoria lake and the rugged beauty of the island of Limnos

Good morning, everyone! Thrilled to share today about the oldest lake settlement in Europe. 7,600 years old! It is in Dispilio, on the lake of Kastoria.

I am off soon to the island of Limnos on vacation and reminiscing about my last visit there, back in 2020. I went to visit my father at our family home in the village of Lychna. Scroll down to see some of my photos. I hope they will bring sunshine to your day!

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A community of farmers and stockbreeders, 7,600 years ago…

I visited the area of Dispilio during my stay in Kastoria where I spent Easter this year.

Dispilio hosts an amazing Neolithic settlement on the lake of Kastoria.

It was fascinating, set in such a lush setting.

The huts are made of mud from the lake and straw – just like the farmers used to make them in the neolithic era. Inside, dummies and replicas bring their world to life.

As the visitor wanders from hut to hut using the wooden walkways, in places, they’re actually walking over water, as you can see in the picture below.

Here is a short video of the settlement.    The birdsong is busy and so sweet!

The phenomenon of settlements in prehestoric times on or beside lakes was first discovered in the 19th century where archaeologists found remains of such settlements on alpine lake regions in Switzerland and Germany.

References of such settlements in the north mainland of Greece are made largely in the work of ancient historian, Herodotus.

In 1932, during a dry winter, the water in the lake receded enough in Dispilio to reveal old wooden stakes – thus, for the first time indicating the presence of an ancient settlement on the lake.

In 1935, archaeologist Antonios Keramopoulos began preliminary excavation works, which, however, stopped quickly, as World War II was looming.

Finally, the settlement in Dispilio was officially found in 1992, during the excavation led by archaeologist Chourmouziadis.

Since then, other lake settlements have been investigated in the lakes of Florina, Lake Ochrid and in lake areas of North Macedonia and Albania.

Still, the lake settlement of Dispilio is the oldest one in Europe. 7,600 years old!

The population of the settlement in Dispilio were farmers and stockbreeders. They seem to have settled there in the Late Neolithic period (5612 BC – 5594 BC) and continued to reside in this area for another 2,500 years, until the end of the Neolithic period, in successive phases of habitation.

Everything the visitor encounters in the huts today are either replicas of actual finds or basic everyday items that help to bring this ancient world to life. The original artefacts are housed in the museum in Dispilio.

The excavation yielded many important finds that speak volumes for the lifestyle of this prehistoric population. These include:

  • Tools made of stone, bone and flint that indicated they were farmers, hunters and fishermen

  • Large clay storage jars and woven baskets

  • Cooking utensils, many of which boat-shaped

  • Jewellery made of bone and stone

  • A bone flute (one of the oldest musical instruments to be found in all of Europe)

  • Ceramics, wooden structural elements, seeds, bones, figurines and personal ornaments. The most famous figurine is The Lake Lady. It is made of clay and has the form of a pregnant woman.

The most incredible find of all is The Dispilio Tablet, an engraved wooden plaque found at the bottom of the lake dating back to 5260 BC and believed to be an early form of the written word that precedes Linear A (this hasn’t yet been decoded either).

Some of the symbols on the Dispilio Tablet are identical to ones found engraved on clay in other settlements in the Balkans.

On vacation mode (AKA Limnos, here I come!)

I am doing something new this year. I am not going to Corfu.

The photos I put together to show you today are all from my last visit there in 2020. My house is in the village of Lychna.

The village is tiny and only has one eaterie, but it happens to be one of the coolest and most sought after on the island. It has the strange name Ennoia Po’chs, which is incomprehensible even to the average Greek as it’s a saying from the local vernacular.

The proper Greek words would be ‘Ennoia pou eheis’ (loosely translated as ‘What do you care?’)

Even the people of Lychna need to prebook in this place as people come from all over the island every night. In one of the photos above, you can see its seating area and facade in our village’s tiny square. In another photo, you can see me sitting on the ledge of my grandfather George’s house (my dad’s dad). This house is across from the eaterie on the same square. It was passed on to aunties, and in time, to cousins of mine.

In another photo you can see my father showing me a series of fig trees he planted along the country road outside his property. He planted trees of various kinds in many parts of the village. I look forward to coming across them during my walks this August. I miss him beyond words every day, and the sight of these trees will provide much comfort in many years to come as they grow all the more bigger and taller.

The houses at Lychna are beautiful, built in the northern Aegean style – tall, with beautiful colours, patterns, and woodwork on their facades. But, somehow, the most enchanting to me is this tiny village house that I found hidden, like a gem, as I wandered around the village lanes. I included a photo of it above so you can take a peek. Such a humble beauty.

Lychna is a quiet place, all dressed in golden yellow in the summer. The dried wheat fields are dazzling under the strong sunlight, stretching far, all the way to the cobalt blue sea. I love these views. And the serenity is amazing. All you can hear all day is the rush of the wind at times, the clinking of the cow bells, and the clucking and crowing of hens and cockerels.

To be honest. I don’t particularly like the cockerels in the village as they wake me up from 6 a.m! But their crowing is lovely to hear at any other part of the day. So rustic haha

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The waterfalls of Edessa, a ‘pink sea’, and Apostle Paul’s podium. A Greek travel post

The Waterfalls of Edessa

Today, I thought I’d share some of my photos from Edessa’s world famous Waterfalls Park. Edessa is the capital of Pella in northern mainland Greece (region of Macedonia).

The waters of Edessa’s waterfalls used to power factories in town in the early 20th century, like the Kanavourgio rope factory and the Old Hemp Factory. Both these are standing derelict today, ghostly reminders of their former industrial glory.

But, the waters still run today with the same incredible force!

Watch this super short video of the waters running and crank up the volume!

The waters originate from the snow on Kaimaktsalan mountain situated 35 kms from the town of Edessa.

The waterfalls park is vast – 100,000 square meters. Its biggest waterfall, Karanos, is 70 meters in height – the biggest in Greece. I can attest to the fact it is very impressive, especially as the visitors can stand up close, right behind the water curtain! Things can get a little misty under there, I tell you. I visited in December, but gladly it was safe to stand there without actually getting wet LOL

There is a cave near that spot where you can purchase a ticket (I believe around 2 euros) to have a guided little tour inside. We gave that a miss as we had limited time to spend and preferred to enjoy the beautiful nature as much as possible.

Another great sightseeing spot in the waterfall park is the Open Air Water Museum (Industrial Museum with watermills – factories).

There is also an aquarium (with fish and reptiles) in the grounds, but it was closed during our visit – we were there in the late afternoon, close to nightfall, but I suspect it’s not open in the winter anyway.

So, basically, if you’re planning to visit, plan to stay for ample time, and if possible, visit in the summer to take full advantage of the various sights on offer.

Go here to watch a short video of the WaterFalls Park taken with a drone. It’s breathtaking!

Believe it or not, this space of enthralling natural beauty used to be completely unknown to people before WWII – just a vast space of unexplored vegetation, out of bounds to everyone.

It seems we have the Nazis, of all people, to thank for helping to make this place accessible to visitors today!

The Germans were the first to realize there was a touristic potential to this place. So, work began to make the place accesible and tidy. But not all workers were eager… Each morning, a Nazi sergeant called Fritz used to block all the ways leading to the square, then took away the identity cards of the men who asked for access telling them if they wanted to get them back they had to give a hand at the worksite at the waterfalls!

In the summer of 1942, two swimming pools, several paths, and the first flower beds were available for people to enjoy.

After the end of the war, the place was given to the municipality of Edessa and more work was done to the gardens. When the civil war broke out the waterfalls were forgotten anew, except for the farmers of “Loggos” district, who enjoyed having their bath there…

In 1953, the construction of the restaurant Pisines (Pools) was finished on the site, allowing the locals to gather there to celebrate with a lot of dancing!

The city of Edessa is fun and stunning, waters everywhere, and it is also impressive to behold as you approach town on the country road. It is set high on a precipice, its buildings playing hide and seek behind the dense trees as one approaches. I fell in love with it at first sight. it is a bustling city with an incredible vibe. This was a short visit, and we went around only a little, and only after nightfall. Sadly, we missed a chance to visit the stunning old quarter of Varosi, but surely next time.

Next to the central market, in the centre of Edessa, you will find the Small Waterfalls – another beautiful spot of running waters to enjoy during your coffee break or after a spot of shopping.

This town has bridges all over the place and the sound of running water is never far from your ears as you explore it. A truly, blessed place…

GO HERE TO SEE ALL MY PHOTOS FROM EDESSA

Image credit to discoververia.gr

The pink sea of Veria

When we went to Edessa we also made a stopover in the town of Veria for lunch and a walk about. We stopped at a spot called Elia (Olive Tree) that consisted of a square with a couple of cafes/eateries, beautiful neoclassical buildings, a small green and a ‘balcony’ with a view to beautiful plains.

Veria produces many fruits in these plains;  mainly apricots, but also cherries, kiwis et al.

We visited out of season in December, but as we drove past the plains the beautiful purplish pink tint of the apricot trees still kept catching my eye.

In March, the beauty of the plains catapults to new heights. The plains transform into a sea of pink, and the sweet smell of the apricot blooms is in the wind. Leaving Veria with the best impressions, even without having witnessed this miracle of nature, made me promise to myself to return in the spring the second time round.

GO HERE TO SEE THE PHOTOS

The Bema (Podium) of Paul the Apostle in Veria has been preserved well by its people

Veria was hailed ‘Little Jerusalem’ in Byzantine times because of its association with Apostle Paul and over time 70 churches were constructed there, 51 of which still stand today.

Apostle Paul visited Veria at least twice during the period between 50 AD and 57 AD to spread the good news about Jesus Christ. The people of Veria and the Jews welcomed him enthusiastically each time.

Today, the steps are preserved and a beautiful monument has been built there to honour the place where the Apostle once stood to preach. It attracts multitudes of visitors from all over the world.

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A trip to Arachova, aka Mykonos of the Winter

 

The view from the clock tower is fabulous from all sides

I recently had the pleasure to visit Arachova, a cosmopolitan town up in the mountains that the Greeks have nicknamed Mykonos of the Winter.

The same VIPs that flood Mykonos all summer do the same all winter in Arachova. It heaves with tourists from all walks of life, every hotel bed occupied on all the bank holiday or festive weekends during the winter season.

Having said that, it’s not like Mykonos at all when it comes to the ridiculously high prices. Thank goodness. Nor did I see any nudists walking around he he

We were lucky to visit Arachova on a dry and partly sunny day. Although there were many tourists around, it was comfortable to walk about and to find a table in its restaurants and cafes.

We were tipped off by someone in the know that we’d better try to eat our lunch quickly at the restaurant lest the waiter would start to give us dirty looks as the crowds are usually so big they’re used to serving fast to clear the tables for the next customers.

Yet, somehow, we found this perfect, reasonably priced restaurant with the most exquisite food where we had the chance to eat at our leisure. What’s more, our table was by the window, allowing us to enjoy a partial view to a church and the valley. It was just perfect.

Others in our coach group confessed they were less fortunate, winding up in an upmarket restaurant that served gourmet food rather than traditional Greek food (we always go for the latter – the genuine local experience) and they wound up paying way more than they were prepared to part with.

So, word of caution: If you visit Arachova do check the prices before you sit somewhere for food or drink. It’s not as bad as Mykonos as I stated earlier, but some places ARE pricey. Check the menu before entering and you’ll be fine 🙂

For what it’s worth, the restaurant we picked is called To Agnandio and you can see it in two of the photographs I posted on Facebook. On the back side, the building is flanked by a beautiful church. In the photo where the facade is showing (the wall is beautiful, decked with stonework), you can see the church behind it.

The town’s folklore museum is right next to it, and from within its yard, you’ll also find the short upward path that leads up to the Clock (Roloi), an important landmark that you must visit, if only for the panoramic views of the town, the valley, and the mountain of Parnassus.

A view to the clock tower of Arachova

We had ample time in Arachova to walk along it’s main street back and forth a couple times. This street is a rather narrow space for such a busy town, the pavements so tiny they might as well not be there at all. They provide a false sense of safety, in my opinion, and you can never take away your eyes from the traffic. It can be dangerous if you don’t, and extra care must be taken if you are visiting with children or elderly people.

The highlights for us were the short ascend up to the clock tower summit as well as the visit to the folklore museum (free admission).

Among the interesting artifacts on display in the museum, we were pleasantly surprised to find a few robotic structures that we learned were made and donated by a local pensioner. Having worked all his life for the Greek telephone company (OTE), he had a lot of old telephone equipment in his possession and had put it all in good use recycling it in this ingenious artistic manner (see the photos on Facebook).

The exhibits also included old pictures, and handiwork from traditional looms. It was an interesting glimpse into this town’s distant past, that was harrowing too, as it included references to the Nazi massacre of the Greek locals at the nearby town of Distomo during WWII.

Last but not least, Andy and I were pleasantly surprised to find among the beautiful shops one dedicated to tea! I was enamoured by the small decorative teapots and have regretted never buying one of them now that I see them in the photos. I did buy a bag of loose jasmine tea, though, that I enjoy in the afternoons as a special treat.

All in all, it was an unforgettable fun day. Arachova is very close to the major archeological site of Delphi. So, if you’re visiting Athens, do enquire at the travel agents offering daily trips. Chances are that if the destination of a coach excursion is Delphi you’ll have a stopover at Arachova for lunch. Both are must places to see. Highly recommended for a day out by coach or car!

Go HERE to see all the photos I took in Arachova. Enjoy!

 

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FREE books, a rare spectacle and pumpkin soup

Now, I wish I could say these were my shoes and that these photos are mine, but I can’t. I found this photograph online, overcome with a deep sense of jealousy!

It’s not often that the Northern Lights are visible from my country and never in my nearly (ahem!) 60 years have I had the excitement to see them with my own eyes.

But the people living in the north of Greece were lucky enough to see the sky and everything under it seemingly on fire with this vibrant red color on the night of November 5! People posted them on social media from Salonica, from Serres and other parts in the north of my country.

There were talks beforehand that Aurora Borealis might be visible from Corfu αs well, but I found no evidence to attest to that.

However, while searching, I bumped into a very interesting superstition on the island of Corfu concerning the Northern Lights. A Corfiot posted on their Facebook page an old text recording this phenomenon as being visible from Corfu back in 1530. According to that text, the phenomenon was visible for two consecutive nights and it colored the sea, making it look like ‘a basin of blood’.

Three years later, in 1533, a great famine plagued Corfu and according to the locals, St Spyridon, the protector of the island, appeared in an apparition before the crew of a boat. It was filled to the brims with wheat, sailing past the island, headed for Italy. The saint commanded them to change course and dock in Corfu and this is what they did, awestruck by the sight. This miracle is celebrated to this day as the wheat fed the starving Corfiots. Back in that time of utter ignorance, the Corfiots, mystified by the earlier sign from the heavens, connected the two events.

This superstition was solidified in their psyche when in 1940, the Northern Lights amazed the Corfiots in the sky once again, and then WWII began! Furthermore, the bombs falling from the sky during the air raids didn’t hurt the city but kept falling miraculously into the sea instead…

To this day, the Corfiots see the Northern Lights as an omen for either an impending intervention from St Spyridon or a catastrophic event.

Which means I am not sure if I am deflated or relieved that they didn’t get to see it this year, LOL!

I am Greek, so I don’t really celebrate Halloween, but I live with a Brit who likes a little something to mark the day 🙂

So, once again, I went for a pumpkin meal to do just that.

And this year, I made the best Hokkaido pumpkin soup ever. The boiled chestnuts and the cheesepies went down very well with it.

Get the recipe here

 

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Summer love and a mysterious haunting in Corfu! Effrosyni’s debut romance, The Ebb, has received an award from Amazon! Check it out here

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A strange event in my sleepy little town and an old Greek movie

The derelict old factory in my seaside little town of Nea Peramos (just 36 kms west of Athens) came to life last month… but only for two nights. The old factory used to produce linen and distribute them all over Greece – the brand name was Peiraiki-Patraiki, and later it was taken over by the paper company, Softex, around the 80s-90s. Then, in the 00s, it was abandoned and left to its fate, to weather away through the decades that followed. The factory, and especially its beautiful facade, became famous all over Greece in the 60s as it became the set of the legendary Greek movie, ‘I Kori mou i Sosialistria’ (My Socialist Daughter) starring the most popular Greek movie stars at the time – Aliki Vougiouklaki and Dimitris Papamichael.

Today, the factory is derelict and it’s always quiet over there, since it’s flanked on both sides by open fields for quite a distance. This is why, as I drove past one evening last month, I found it very peculiar to see cars parked back-to-back along the road, for hundreds of meters before and after the factory building.

What’s more, from a nearby field, I saw youngsters emerging in large numbers onto the road. They were walking along the field on a dirt path that was situated on one side of the building. So, if they were visiting the old factory, why were they coming out via a field and not out the main gate, which remained locked like always?

It was all very peculiar, and my first guess was that perhaps something illegal was going on. A rave party? (if these are, indeed, still happening? I wouldn’t know as I am too old, obviously haha!) Some kind of happening for sure!

The people were just too many, most of them looking barely out of puberty too. Arriving home, I checked for new posts in a local Facebook group where the people of Nea Peramos discuss events, and share advice and information among them.

Sure enough, someone had already expressed their intrigue about the parked cars and the many people sighted near the derelict factory.

‘Not to worry!’ someone commented under the post. ‘It’s just a painting exhibition. It’s happening just this weekend!’

‘Oh, now it makes sense!’ another quipped. ‘I spotted a black Jeep parked outside the building the other day. Some guys were standing at the gate and talking’.

The rest of the comments were complaints, as one might expect. ‘An art exhibition? In our town? But, how come we are not aware of this?’

‘Yes, how come?’ another frustrated local would add. ‘Why didn’t they advertise it anywhere so we can go? Who are these people going there and how did they find out then?’

My own reasonings were similar. If, indeed, this was a legit ‘painting exhibition’ then why didn’t it get advertised properly and openly? Why all the secrecy? The factory gates weren’t even opened. And how was it that the only visitors I saw at the site were youngsters? Surely, middle-aged and even elderly visitors would jump at the chance to visit an ‘art exhibition’!?

To cut a long story short, this same oddity was repeated the next evening, and after that, the factory reverted to its usual ghostly state. And that’s when we got to hear the rest of the story…

As it turned out, this was a street art exhibition, after all, and it had been prepared and opened to the public secretly, on purpose. Whoever planned this, wanted to experiment, apparently, to see if such an event could be advertised secretly and still be a success among the young.

For two years, 20 street artists visited the building under wraps to work on a total of 70 murals!

The team that organised the whole thing gave the project the code name ‘Project Peramo’ (from our town’s name, Nea Peramos). The code name had been whispered from person to person these past two years, making its way online only via private Direct Messages – never posted properly on social media. And it still became a success on the weekend of the opening.

Two years of work resulted to this event, a spotlight of just a few hours. No one knows what will happen to the murals post-event. The only thing I have found that I perceive as good news is that the old factory has recently been acquired by a construction company called Dimand and that another company – Royale Sugar – is planning to operate in the building.

The locals, including yours truly, have grown upset over the past decades to see this old gem left to its fate so this is going to excite everyone – to see it in operation again after twenty odd years.

It seems to be frozen in time, judging from the pictures I saw in a blog post online (in Greek) that reported on the street art event.

In one of the photos, you can see a chart where work shifts were being recorded back in the day. And on another, the sign of the staff canteen sports the old font anyone will recognise from the 70s and 80s…

Go here to see plenty of photographs from the street art event!

UPDATE: In 2024, works in the old factory began under new management and are still ongoing as I write this. I look forward to seeing it operational again!

 

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NEW! A historical paranormal romance box set. This is the timeless love story that will stay with you forever. Set in Moraitika, Corfu and Brighton, England. Visit Amazon: https://bit.ly/3HEvMPG
Clean romance short read, FREE with Kindle Unlimited. It’ll transport you straight to Corfu to experience summer in an idyllic Greek seaside village. Visit Amazon: https://bit.ly/3pAP3rf

 

Kelly ran a marathon and wound up running a house. With a ghost in it! Both humorous and moving, with delightful sweet romance, it’s just the ticket to lose yourself reading! Read more on Amazon
Summer love and a mysterious haunting in Corfu! Effrosyni’s debut romance, The Ebb, has received an award from Amazon! Check it out here

Beach fun and sweet romance mixed with magic spells and bird shifters… The Raven Witch of Corfu is an original story that will rivet you with its unrelenting suspense. The final twist will blow your mind!
Available in paperback , box set or 4 kindle episodes!
 
Planning to visit Greece? Check out our FREE guide to south Corfu!

 

For delicious Greek recipes, go here. Are you an author? Check out our FREE promo tips & resources here.