The village of Nymfaio and the bear sanctuary of Arcturos

Nymfaio, Florina

I visited the village of Nymfaio during my stay over Easter in Kastoria.

This village is situated in the prefecture of Florina (Greek region of west Macedonia). You will find it on Mount Vernon (Vitsi) at an altitude of 1.350 m.

According to UNESCO, Nymfaio is one of the ten most picturesque villages of Europe!

Truly, its name, that means ‘The Land of the Nymphs’ is befitting to this enchanted place that is graced by lush forestland and precious wildlife too.

Nymfaio was a delight to my eyes as I walked through it, along its cobblestone paths. The stonework and the classy old architecture on some of the buildings were just breathtaking, and I invite you to look at my photos on Facebook and see for yourselves.

By far, the most imposing edifice was the Nikeios School, an architectural marvel that nowadays operates as a conference Hall of Thessaloniki’s Aristotelian University.

We followed the many helpful signs to the Arcturos bear sanctuary as we made our way through the village past quaint dwellings and a piazza with charming eateries and cafes. Soon, we exited the village and came upon a path that ran through a marvelous beech forest…

This is me tip-toeing in the woods while looking out for bears haha

The beauty of the beech forest was remarkable. It literally took my breath away, which meant I couldn’t run (ha ha) when I read the sign that told me I was in bear country! Let me repeat that: Wild bears were actually roaming free where I was walking, folks! The sign said I ought to keep quiet, which suited me just fine!

I mean, who wants a bear to know you’re nearby, right?

Yes. I will admit that, for a few moments, I panicked to know I had entered a place where a bear might appear at any moment.

Andy and I were taking photos back in Nymfaio as we speedily followed the guide – but we still had fallen behind the others in the coach group. Most of the people had gone well ahead of us and there were only a few, the most aged naturally, lagging way behind us, as we all made our way to the bear sanctuary. So, we were walking alone, my hubbie and I, and I didn’t like it one bit.

But then, I thought, Oh well. I never heard on TV of anyone getting attacked by a bear in this country, so my chances are good. You know?

So, I cast my trepidation aside and, after that, I thoroughly enjoyed my walk (about 15-20 minutes, as I recall) in this mesmerisingly beautiful setting.

When we reached a cabin amidst the forest that served as the office and gift store of Arcturos, I was pleased to reunite with familiar faces from the group.

Before I relay the details of my visit to the bear sanctuary, to tell you a little about Arcturos:

The name Arcturos means ‘Bear Watcher’ in ancient Greek, the name for bear being ‘Arctos’, by the way. And that is why the Arctic is called the Arctic, folks!

Arcturos is a non profit, non governmental, environmental organization (NGO) founded in 1992, focusing on the protection of wildlife fauna and natural habitat, in Greece and abroad. They have sanctuaries in Nymfaio for both bears and wolves in two different locations amidst the forestland near the village.

A guide took us into the forest, asking us to speak in whispers and to turn off the sound on our phones.

Arriving shortly later in a wooden construction with a roof and rows of seats we were invited to sit and enjoy a short presentation from the guide.

He was very pleasant, eloquent, and highly informative about the work of Arcturos and the bears themselves. Many of the facts I learned about the bears (brown bears, as the case is!) were very surprising.

One of them was that they actually never attack humans unless provoked and that they shy away from noise. He said, if you’re walking in the wild and you want to avoid brown bears, all you have to do is make some noise. The easiest thing, he said, is to play some music on your phone, and they’ll go far from you.

He didn’t say which kind of music, though. I mean, heavy metal or that cursed trap music that sounds like screeching cats would certainly do the trick. But soothing melodies like songs by Michael Bolton or Celine Dion? Now, that music may actually entice them closer to come lie down for a nap haha

“Music hath charms to soothe the savage beast”, after all 🙂

Anyway, here are some of the facts I recall from that awesome presentation:

When Arcturos is notified that a bear is being abused or in need of assistance, they collaborate with the authorities to rescue it and bring it to the bear sanctuary. This oftentimes takes place in other countries too, like Turkey or Bulgaria, where, to this day, it is still common to find a bear being abused in a circus or put in a cage outside a store or at a petrol station, in order to attract customers. So cruel, but sadly true, and it made me very sad to hear it.

But thank goodness for Arcturos. According to the presenter, there are no circuses left in Greece today that use bears, and I was relieved to hear it. I remember about 10 years ago, a circus had come in town on two different occasions, and they used animals. It was an Italian circus I will not name. I had complained to the council both times and was shocked to find they had no idea that animals in circuses were abused. The second time they assured me they wouldn’t allow another circus act with animals in town again and were, in time, proven true to their word.

To hear Arcturos had worked so hard to educate people so that animal acts in circuses have now completely been a thing of the past in my country was wonderful news to hear.

Our guide said they give the bears names in the sanctuary, and separate the males from the females. They also spay and neuter them, as the sanctuary is just a safe haven for them and only them to spend the rest of their lives in to the end. They are not to breed more bears in captivity, or to be released in the wild. The last is not a cruelty, but a mercy, because, having known slavery for most of their lives, it would be impossible for them to survive alone out there.

The staff at the sanctuary take care of their every need. They give them all the kinds of food they need, and they never go hungry. They have medical care, and especially the old bears get to live longer, because they go without nothing. In the wild, old bears cannot hunt, so die soon after they stop having the use of their eyes or their legs. An adult bear often has to cover long distances every day in search of food.

Another thing that surprised me to hear is that bears don’t hibernate as such, but rather fall into a deep sleep. Their bodies do not grow cold or rigid and their strong sense of smell remains fully alert. They will readily wake up if needed.

A bear can smell humans from far away, even while it is sleeping in the winter.

A note on the food – the people at Arcturos make sure to simulate life in the wild as much as possible, and in this sense, start to give the bears less and less food when it’s time to go into their deep sleeep, as it is the lack of food in the wild that biologically triggers this long sleep in their system.

After the presentation, we were led to the area where the bears are kept behind fences and buzzing electrical wires. Most of them were napping under the trees, and a couple approached lazily behind the fence the curious humans who looked at them with wonder. The bears seemed peaceful, and used to human presence. There was no sign of agitation, the way you often see wild animals behaving in a zoo, and I was pleased to see that.

We were told that all the bears had been rescued from zoos and cages outside stores, in Greece and abroad. Knowing they had found a safe heaven in this beautiful forest where they could stay forever, never to be alone, never caged or chained again, and with all their needs met, made my heart sing.

Before departure, I visited the gift shop, and made sure to support Arcturos with some purchases, hoping what little I spent would help them save more bears and more wolves in future. By the way, they don’t stop there, you know! They also save deer, otters, jackals, and other creatures of the wild!

I have a little bear figurine and an Arcturos mouse pad on my desk as I type this, and they remind me of the rescued bears every day.

To hear more about Arcturos and to support this wonderful cause with a purchase or a donation, please visit their website.

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Pozar thermal baths and sleeping bears

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Pozar thermal baths – an unforgettable experience

You know that feeling when you get in the bath after a long tiring day? When your muscles are tight and every sinew in your body is crying for mercy? And then, as the warm water envelopes you, you begin to relax, feeling as if you’re melting away, every cell in your body emitting a thank you?

Well…. Multiply that by a thousand, and you have an idea of what it feels like to dip into the pools of Pozar! I visited this blessed place on the slopes of Mt Kaimaktsalan (Voras) in the region of Macedonia, Greece last December. It was about 13 degrees C as I recall, and we were wearing jackets. I was worried about how cold I was going to get walking in a swimswuit from the changing cubicles to the natural pool, but I was determined not to miss the chance. And, boy, am I glad for my choice!

Small mercy number 1: No wind was blowing.

Small mercy number 2: The changing cubicles were a stone’s throw away from the steps that led down to the pool. So, I took the plunge! (literally)

Here is a super-short video of the pool my husband and I dippped ourselves in.

Allluring, huh? You can see why I had to brave the cold! And I was so relaxed and warm when I got out that I felt really comfortable, as if it was a summer’s day, as I walked back to the cubicle to change. Therefore, if someone like me can do it, someone who gets chilly at the slightest gust of wind, surely you can too! No matter which part of the year you visit.

The word ‘Pozar’ is Slavic and it means ‘fire’ and ‘burning coal’.

No surprise there! The water in Pozar is naturally warm at a steady temperature of 37 degrees C. You can see the steam that kept on rising in some of the pictures, especially the one taken from right above the waterfall. The recommendation was to stay in the pool for 20 minutes and not longer. We did just that and it felt more than enough. Our skin felt soft for days after!

Pozar thermal baths are located in the area of Aridaia in the region of Pella, 32 kms west of Edessa. You can easily combine it with a visit to Edessa’s waterfall park, which I shared about previously. Edessa is a wonderful city to stay in, or, to visit Pozar, you can also seek accomodation in the small village of Agios Athanasios (located 40 kms from Pozar).

There are massage therapists on site as well, if that’s of interest. There are also derelict buildings of lodgings of long ago on the opposite bank accessible by a bridge. They made me sad to gaze upon. Pity they were left to rot away like this amidst the forest, but I guess they added to the charm of the place, somehow.

Pozar thermal baths offer both outdoor pools and indoor ones. The latter are charming, some stunning to look at, decked in beautiful tiling or stone. One needs to book beforehand to use the indoor pools. There is a huge artificial outdoor swimming pool on the grounds, but it was closed for maintenance during my visit. The small outdoor natural pool we chose was just perfect for us.

Apparently, some people dare the impossible over there: To jump out of the warm pool you can see in the photo and stand under the cold water of the waterfall to the left and then back into the warm pool! It is supposed to be invigorating to the body, much like the sauna/snow combo of the Scandinavians, but beware that you must be strong to do this. It can be taxing for the heart, and I even saw warning signs onsite that said this wasn’t for everyone!

Visit the website of Pozar thermal baths for photographs of the facilities and more information.

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Greek Easter was on May 5 this year and I chose to visit bears of all things…

So my sister phones me on Easter day around midday. ‘Chronia polla!’ she says.

‘Christos Anesti!’ Whispering, I respond, ‘Chronia polla, all the best.’

‘What is it?’ she replies. ‘Were you sleeping?’

‘Nooo…’ I reply. ‘I just don’ t want to disturb the bears…’

What an impossible thing to say haha 

I laughed like a drain once I got out of earshot of the napping bears at Arcturos’s bear sanctuary in Nymfaio, Florina. 

GO HERE TO SEE MY DETAILED POST ABOUT NYMFAIO AND THE BEAR SANCTUARY

 

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Frantically waving to the world… 10 years later

I am feeling moved today, and a little overwhelmed. Yesterday, November 1st, marked 10 years since I sent out my very first blog post.

This month also marks 10 years since I published my first novel on Amazon (The Necklace of Goddess Athena), and consequently entering the indie publishing universe for one bumpy yet enthralling ride thus far. This is the picture I posted in that very first blog post 10 years ago… I titled it ‘Frantically Waving Across the Distance’ to introduce myself and ask the world out there to connect with me. Reading the short post now fills me with nostalgia, but also with amazement at how little I have changed since then in the way that I think and express myself.

The only things that make me cringe as I read it are the repetitive mentions to the tax office haha. But hey, in my defense, I wrote this at the heart of the Greek credit crunch and everything was about the lack of money back then. Oh, how little did we know back then about what really matters! But anyway, here is an excerpt, if you’d like to take a peek:

“Would you come with me for a quiet ride along the sparkling lagoon waters that lie ahead? You will find a lot of poetry here, not just in verse, but also in the way of my thinking. By the way, I’m not much of a talker. This quirkiness of mine, in a world full of loud and busy voices, has allowed me to learn more this way through my eager ears and my silence. Furthermore, I’ve always preferred the written word to speaking in order to express myself.

“Although I write novels these days, I started with writing poetry. I have been scribbling verses ever since I was as young as ten and often relished my solitude even then, armed with a notepad and a pen, writing about an anthill in my gran’s garden or about the moon on a clear, starry night. Join me as I experience the world, not through the tired eyes of the forty-something who has just been handed a tax note too many by the postman, but through the clear, full of wonderment eyes of the perpetual child inside me.

“Welcome here on my desert island and hop on that boat with me oh friend; let’s transcend magically the geographical distance between us as we cheer together as one: “Happy travels!” 

I would like to end this post by offering thanks. To all of you who stuck with me these last 10 years. Authors who mentored me, like Jackie Weger and Carmen DeSousa, authors who helped me tremendously along the way, like Nicholas Rossis and MM Jaye, and even more authors who trusted me by associating with me numerous times, like Amy Vansant,  SR Mallery and Chris Kallias.

Last, but not least, I thank the readers of my blog who have been sharing my posts, like Dr Glen Hepker, Annette Rochelle Aben, and Marina Costa, and, of course, the loyal readers of my novels, like Jean Symonds, Louise Mullarkey, Cheryl Worrall, and many many others. I could not possibly list everyone here but I will hold you all forever in my heart with sheer gratitude.

GO HERE TO READ THAT FIRST POST

 

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A post about my father, may he R.I.P.

SEE THE PHOTOS HERE

It is with great sadness that I am announcing today that my father passed away earlier this month, at the age of 81.

In the end, there was nothing I could do, no matter how hard I tried at home to make my father strong again with the help of two highly experienced and attentive nurses. His three long stays at the hospital since June while taking endless courses of strong antibiotics to fight the many infections caused irreversible damage to his organs.

He tried so hard and he was so brave, and now he is finally rested… I am comforted to think of him in heaven now, reunited with my dear mother. The fact he didn’t feel the slightest twinge of pain in his last days is also a great comfort for me, and a good indication that your collective prayers did a miracle to make his passing as easy as possible. And, for that, I will always be grateful to you all.

My father had a great affinity for horses, having been raised on the island of Limnos with various farm animals, including horses, thanks to his father’s job–he was a merchant of livestock. In the army, my father was put in charge of the horses, and he loved that. He was a bit of a horse whisperer too, in the sense that he could tame even the most wild ones – at one time surprising even his father with this skill when he was still very young.

Dad has always been super strong, despite being thin, thanks to his Greco-Roman wrestling training that he did as a youngster. In the army, he used to lift his friends up into the air while posing for photographs. I am sharing these pictures today with you all, as I find them very comforting.

I prefer to think of my father like this, rather than the way he looked on those dreadful last days, trapped in a skeletal, broken body. He is clothed in the glory of God right now, anyway, surely looking in heaven exactly as he does in these pictures: Forever young and able-bodied, eyes sparkling, face beaming.

To all those of you who have lost a loved one, I hope you are joining me in remembering that our separation from them is only temporary. Death is only for the body, after all, as the soul is eternal. Also, let us be comforted with the fact that the sadness is only for us, who are left behind, and never for those who leave us. The kind souls who move on beyond the veil have only bliss and only joy to look forward to. Love and blessings to all, till next time.

 

 

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