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Free books, a majestic cave in the Peloponnese and a road for smooching

A visit to Kastria Cave (aka Cave Lakes)

Today, I am pleased to share photographs from the majestic Kastria Cave (aka Cave Lakes) in the area of Kalavryta.

The cave system is vast and only a small part of it is open to visitors.

We had an enthralling tour for about 30 minutes, exploring the small part of the cave that is open to the public. The main reason why the rest of it will remain out of reach is to ensure its preservation, as well as the survival of its fauna that thrives there for thousands of years.

There are ten bat species in the lakes, something I wasn’t exactly pleased to be told before entering🫣Immediately, my mind conjured up an image of Jim Carrey’s Pet Detective bolting out of a cave that was full of bats and guano and screaming!

Ha ha. Luckily, I didn’t have to do that. The tour guide said we might find droppings on the ground, and said not to photograph any bats if we happen to see them. Again, I was spared from any encounter of the sort 🙃

But, actually, the guano is useful in the caves, as it becomes food for other species, including three endemic ones: a scorpion, a beetle and a spider. These, along with an endemic cricket, have survived safely inside the caves for millenia.

More than 18,000 bats live in the caves. When I found that out I felt even luckier I never saw a single one LOL!

 

This was not my first visit to a cave. I have been to the impressive Lake Melissani in Kefalonia and the beautiful Diros Caves in the Peloponnese (both explored by boat).

But, entering the Kastria Cave, I was stunned. Nothing could have prepared me for the staggering size of the chambers. I’d never seen a cave before clothed in every way with such sheer magnificence.

I kept looking up and marvelling at the tall ceilings and the beautiful formations from that very first chamber we entered.

The walking tour lasted for about thirty minutes. Walking on artificial bridges over the serene lake waters and going up and down steps, we explored a series of majestic chambers of incredibly high ceilings.

Some of the formations were really impressive, such as a series of natural ‘bathtubs’ that reminded me of those stone bathtubs one can find in luxury hotels in Aegean islands, like Santorini, which imitate natural cavernous spaces. Or, the much larger natural Kolibithres in Mikro Papigo, Zagori, that are out in the open and people can actually swim in them.

But the natural ‘bathtubs’ of the Kastria Cave are out of reach to the public, of course, and can only be viewed from a bridge at close distance. The guide on site told us all of them stay full of water in the winter. They had little to no water during our visit mid-April.

There are 13 lakes inside the cave. The total length is 1.980 meters, but only 500 meters are open to the public. The cave system is laid out on three different levels. Visitors walk along a short, sloped tunnel to enter the cave which takes them straight to the second level.

There are heavy security doors either side of the tunnel to ensure they stay shut in order to preserve the low temperature in the cave. You feel the sudden drop in temperature as soon as you enter.

The exploration of the Kastria Cave took place between 1964-1965. In 1981, it was handed over to the Greek Tourism Authority, and it has been open to the public since 1988.

Across from the entrance to the cave, in a beautiful court with greenery and trees, stands a small, yet interesting, museum. Various findings from excavations in the caves are housed there, including tools, and remains of animals (even those of a hippo!) from the Bronze and Neolithic eras.

All in all, it was a memorable and exciting visit, and if you’re in the area of Kalavryta, I highly recommend you check out this wonderful site.

The nearby village of Planitero is the perfect place for lunch if you’re visiting the area. Planitero is a stunning little village with trout farms and rushing river waters. I did go there for lunch on the same day and will share all about it some other time.

Here, I’d like to thank Perivassis Tourism & Τravel Services and our amazing tour guide, Katerina Liontaki, for another wonderful day spent under her wing, and also for her sending me some of her own photographs to post.

GO HERE to see all the pictures from Kastria Cave. Some of them are posters mounted inside the tunnel and depict speleologists. These photos show the cave and the lakes in all their splendour!

 

Vytina, a beautiful town with many treasures…

On the same day my husband and I visited Kastria Cave on the coach tour, we stopped at Vytina for coffee.

Vytina is a traditional settlement in the Peloponnese that has beautiful stone buildings. It is built at the foot of the mountain range, Mainalo.

Go here to see my pictures from Vytina.

We had coffee at the square in one of the many cafes beside a beautiful stone-built church. Then, we looked around the shops that sell traditional products, including the local honey variety that has a striking yellowish color.

It is called Elati Vanilia, and it is a treasure to the immune system, and also beneficial for a number of health issues.

We also found out that the region also produces a variety of marble that is named The Black of Vytina. Truly, it’s a blessed little place, with many treasures.

But that wasn’t all we discovered there. Thanks to our wonderful guide, who tipped us off, we then took a downward street from the square, looking for love…

And love, we did find, just a couple minutes later, getting into the most serene little road lined by trees that has a very special name 😍

 

This is a photo of me on ‘The Road of Love’ (O Dromos tis Agapis) in Vytina. It has been named thus by the locals because, for many generations, it has been the meeting place for young lovers to take a walk in the quiet.

The road stretches out into the distance, as far as you can see, with beautiful tall trees either side. There are hardly any houses around, just grassy fields and more trees.

Back in April when I visited, the distant snow-capped mountains were the perfect backdrop. The birdsong was ample and sweet in my ears. The grassy ground was strewn with tiny white flowers, including chamomile.

It all combined to create a sweet springtime memory that I will treasure forever.

I am at an age when I need nothing in terms of physical things. Most of the time, I don’t wish for a present anymore on the big days but always go for a meal out, or a day out in nature to celebrate, instead.

Beautiful memories is the only thing I seek when I think of exciting new ‘acquisitions.’

It is a privilege and an honor to share my experiences with you. Once again, I’d like to thank everyone who writes to tell me how they enjoy reading about my travels. You give me encouragement to keep on traveling and sharing!

Before I go, to share my big news. I just finished writing My Greek Island Christmas! What I can tell you is it got me and hubby (who is my forever eager editor) in the same places!

This means that if we laughed or cried in certain scenes, chances are you will too 😃 But it has a nice balance of humor, romance and family drama. Oh. And lots of Greek food. That blessed girl cooked every day in that farm in Santorini, and she kept me salivating 😛

Anyway, I am really pleased it’s done! Another baby of mine born, and the feeling is amazing every time 💗

GO HERE to check out the book and download a FREE sample! The book is available on preorder in various stores 🥳

Till next time, enjoy summer and keep reading amazing books!

Interested in discovering more places in the Peloponnese? Check out these posts next!

A cruise through the Corinth Canal and fun facts  https://effrosyniwrites.com/2024/10/25/corinth-canal-cruise-and-corfiot-pastitsada/

A stunning fresco at the Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and a mollusc with a royal secret https://effrosyniwrites.com/2024/11/08/fresco-isthmia-roman-baths-nero-corinth-canal/

Majestic views in Lake Doxa and an old secret school… https://effrosyniwrites.com/2022/12/09/majestic-views-secret-school/

Hey, before you go! In my latest newsletter, I am sharing a plethora of FREE kindle books! Check it out here!

 

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New! Clean Christmas romance. Two broken hearts. One magical holiday. A Santorini farm where anything can happen. 
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Urginea, the lucky plant for the New Year and other Greek traditions

Image credit to Festivalaki Cretan festival of Arts & Culture

Hi All! Thrilled to share today the Greek tradition of the lucky plant for the New Year! I’ll also share my recipe for Vasilopita, the cake with the hidden coin inside that Greek families traditionally cut together on New Year’s Eve.

The big day is approaching and, soon, the Greeks will be looking to buy an unedible little plant that looks very much like an onion but is not. You’ll find it in the stores here only once a year, folks. Do you know what they are for? Fret not, for I am about to tell you 🙂

These special plants to the Greeks decorate people’s front doors for good luck every year, and are put in place in time for New Year’s Day.

My parents have always referred to this plant simply as ‘riza’, which is just the Greek word for ‘root’. My father described it as some kind of wild onion, because of the shape of the root. Years later, when I looked up this plant online, I realised my father’s description was bang on!

As my Internet search revealed, the plant has many names: Agriokremmydo (wild onion), Skylokremmydo, Skylla, Askeletoura, Boska, and Agiovasilitsa. The latter refers to Agios Vasilis, the Greek Santa Claus, and that makes sense as the plant is used in the New Year, when Agios Vasilis makes His visit to the children, according to Greek custom.

The Latin name of the plant is Urginea. Apparently, it is the plant of Pan (the pagan god of nature in ancient Greece). It was believed to offer fertility, good luck, and good fortune.

The custom of hanging these roots outside homes in the new year is largely followed on the island of Crete. It seems to be followed in Athens too, though not by many. In general, I don’t see them outside people’s houses that often these days any more.

Anyway, my family never had to buy one, since urginea grows all over the open fields here every winter, and even on our local beaches, as you can see in this picture.

Close to New Year’s Eve, even at the age of 80, my late father would go up the road to the first open field and dig up two of these plants, taking great care to remove the root whole and intact. He’d then hand over one plant to my husband and me, the onion-like root covered in aluminium foil. All I had to do then was to tie a piece of string around its stem and my lucky plant was ready to hang at the gate.

Whatever your customs or personal family traditions are for New Year’s Eve in your part of he world, have lots of fun, and a happy and peaceful 2025! 

Here’s another Greek tradition – Vassilopita – the New Year’s Eve cake with the hidden coin inside. Learn all about it here and get my family recipe!

Can you say ‘Melomakarona’? Or even know what it is?
Check out the traditional Greek Christmas desserts here, and a fun cookie recipe that the kids will love to bake! Enjoy!

 

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A stunning fresco at Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and the Corinth Canal

Today, I am pleased to share my photographs from the Isthmia Museum and Archeological site. The latter boasts the Roman Baths with the largest monochrome fresco in the eastern Mediterranean! And it is STUNNING, adorned with a variety of sea creatures (octopus, fish, lobster, squid, dolphin, sea snake) and mythological marine creatures too, including what looks like a Nereid and a Triton.

We happened to visit on the day that the ancient games of Isthmia were revived in the area for the first time, and we spotted in the museum two locals preparing the pine tree wreaths for the winners.

We left the place before the games began, so we didn’t see any sporting action.  But after seeing that breathtaking fresco, and with the cruise of the Corinth Canal as our next stop that day, we didn’t feel like hanging around LOL!

The museum was tiny but very interesting, with a plethora of artifacts in great condition that helped to imagine the everyday life of my ancient ancestors.

The archaeological grounds were mere ruins, nothing standing except for the Roman baths. We had to imagine the Temple of Poseidon, the stadium, and the other buildings we got to see only on signs, but the pine trees were ample – holy trees to Poseidon, apparently!

When I heard that from our guide, I wondered if this is why there are so many pine trees on Greek beaches. Or, maybe, it’s the other way around. The Greeks imagined Poseidon liked them seeing that they are often found so close to seawater. I guess we’ll never know, LOL!

The archaeological site is set on a hill that overlooks the bay. It is a short drive away from Isthmia where the Corinth Canal begins.

In my recent newsletter and blog post about my cruise through the Corinth Canal, I mentioned that the ancient Greeks had conceived the idea of the canal so the ships did not have to circumnavigate the Peloponnese to go to the other side of mainland Greece. However, their plans never turned into action as when they asked Zeus for permission to go ahead (via the high priestess and Oracle Pythia of Delphi), his reply was negative.

Still, that didn’t stop the Corinth tyrant Periander in the 7th century BC. He did try to dig for a canal but found the task far more demanding and expensive than he’d thought. So, he constructed a ‘diolkos’ instead, i.e. a passageway from one shore to the other that involved dragging the boats across the land on porous blocks.

Later, the Romans tried too. During the reign of Tiberius, another failed attempt was made in 32 AD but their equipment and know-how proved inadequate for this feat. They, too, settled for another solution, similar to the Greek ‘diolkos. The Romans went for an Egyptian mechanism that had been used previously to roll huge blocks of granite to build their pyramids. The boats rolled across the Isthmus upon tree trunks.

In 67 AD, philhellene Roman Emperor Nero ordered six thousand slaves to dig a canal with shovels. Most of them were Jewish pirates during the Jewish wars. Nero was so keen on the project he was the one to give the first blow to the land of the Isthmus with a golden pickaxe.

Sadly, he passed away the next year and the project was soon abandoned.

Today, a relief adorns the wall of the canal near Isthmia. It is on the side of the mainland, not the Peloponnese, i.e. on the right side as you begin the boat cruise from the Saronic Gulf (Isthmia) side. You will see it high up on the canal wall right next to an old stone base to a bridge over the canal that no longer exists.

It is a mystery as to who created this relief of Nero and when, but it is said to be a remnant from a temple built there in his honor.

It is sad it has been left to its fate as it continues to fight a losing battle with the elements, but here it is, a quickly fading image of the man who had the dream of the canal and went the furthest along than any other.

He was the most determined to do it, and he followed through, in a world that didn’t yet have the mechanical and technological marvels of today.

 

To hear more about the Corinth Canal, for fun facts, and to see photos, see this blog post.

 
 

All this talking about emperors made me think of the purpura mollusk and I have to tell you why!

This mollusk is an exquisite meze for Greeks in the know. It also carries an ancient secret related to royalty!

Porpura  derives its name from ‘porphura’, the dated Greek word for ‘purple’ (pronounced ‘porfeera’). This is the Greek name for this mollusk. In ancient times, they were used to extract the color purple, which was then used to dye the clothes of kings and emperors. The practice is 3,000 years old.

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