Author: Effrosyni Moschoudi

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Nafplio, a town steeped in Greek history

Today I am delighted to present to you the historical town of Nafplio (Nafplion) in the Peloponnese.

In 1821, the Greeks declared the Greek War of Independence against the Ottoman Empire that plagued the country for 400 years. Eight years later, Nafplio became the first capital of Greece and remains to this day a town steeped in history. The old quarter, situated near the promenade, has retained both its feel and look from the 1800’s. This is largely owed to Nafplio’s antiquated buildings as well as the three Venetian forts that surround it: Bourtzi, Palamidi and ‘Its Kale’.

A statue of King Otto in Trion Navarchon square

As you discover the old quarter on foot, the monuments and statues placed everywhere are a constant reminder that you’re in a place once inhabited by war heroes, kings, and gifted leaders of the people. The thought brings chills down my spine every time, and I hope to share that feeling of awe with you today.

So come with me, on this virtual tour of the town, and let’s revel together in Nafplio’s past and present glory. I promise you will be enchanted by its beauty and, if Greek history interests you, chances are you will hear something new 🙂

Syntagma (Constitution square)

Nafplio is a highly touristy town. As well as having a multitude of visitors from other countries, Greeks, mainly Athenians, descend in droves for weekend breaks throughout the year. Their favorite pastime here, it seems, is to sit at one of the bustling cafes, either on the promenade, or at the historical Syntagma (Constitution) Square.

The view of Bourtzi from the promenade (the small lighthouse is visible on the left)

No matter where you are in the old quarter of Nafplio, you will sooner or later wind up in the promenade. Akti Miaouli Street is lined with cafes, all of them offering a picturesque view to the Venetian fort of Bourtzi that stands isolated from town in the middle of the water. Back in the day, a chain connected it to Akronafplia so that unwanted ships could not approach the city. Much later in time, Bourtzi became a prison (the war hero Kolokotronis was jailed here too), then a hotel (19230s – 1960s), and now it’s a popular point of interest for the tourists. Throughout the year, caiques ferry visitors back and forth to it from the promenade. I visited it years ago and took some wonderful pictures, which I plan to share on a separate article. When I do, I will make sure to link up to it from here.

At the end of the promenade there is a tiny lighthouse, where visitors can have a closer view of Bourtzi and the castle of Argos in the distance. On the other side, the view is just as breathtaking:

Palamidi and Akronafplia as viewed from the lighthouse

Palamidi castle and the lower hill of Akronafplia crown the old town to an enchanting effect. A visit to Akronafplia is a must, and the ascent on foot is nowhere near as laborious as the one to Palamidi. Actually, I wouldn’t recommend to brave the 999 steps to Palamidi unless you’re seriously fit! On the other hand, Akronafplia should be a peace of cake to get to on foot if you enjoy quiet, long walks.

Akronafplia offers spectacular views of the town and the beach of Arvanitia, as well as a couple of places of interest – the most interesting being the clock tower and the fort ruins. See the section ‘Suggested Walks’ later in this post for details and photos of Akronafplia.

Leaving the lighthouse, one can either head left towards the old town, or head right for a delightful walk to Arvanitia Beach (again, see ‘Suggested Walks’ later in this post for details and photos).

 

The photos in this post were all taken around New Year’s Day. The city was decorated beautifully, and a pirate ship was put up in Trion Navarchon Square (Three Admirals). Children’s events took place there every day during our stay.

 

A view of Palamidi from Kapodistrias square. Kapodistrias was the first governor of Greece

The infamous Palamidi is visible from anywhere in Nafplio. To visit it, you can either drive along 25is Martiou Street, then up the hill to its main entrance or, if you dare the exertion, go up its 999 steps that begin from the old quarter near The Land Gate (Pyli Ksiras).

A view of Palamidi castle from Fillelinon (philellenes) square on the promenade

Legend has it that the 999 steps of Palamidi used to be 1,000 but the horse of the war hero Theodoros Kolokotronis broke the 1000th with its hooves. Kolokotronis was one of the prominent war generals of the 1820s who freed Nafplio as well as the town of Tripoli.

In Kolokotronis square in Nafplio, there is a magnificent statue that depicts him on his horse pointing towards Tripoli. A similar statue stands in Stadiou street, Athens, outside the Old Parliament building (now, the National Historical Museum).

Although he was a fervent supporter of Prince Otto of Bavaria and rooted for him to become the king of Greece, when Kolokotronis was an elderly man, and after Otto had become king, he wound up being charged with treason. Even more ironically, he then wound up in a humid, tiny prison in the castle of Palamidi, the very place he once entered as a victor and liberator. The prison is a tiny space carved in the rock and is a claustrophobic sightseeing spot on offer to the visitors of the castle.

Kolokotronis is among the most revered Greek heroes. His infamous love for Greece and his commitment to freedom from Othoman rule brim over in his legendary words – you’ll find them translated into English below to the best of my ability.

“Are you Greek? What are you bowing for? Stand up! We Greeks talk even to the Gods while standing tall!”

“Greece is what we want, and it doesn’t matter if it means we will be eating stones!”

His infamous red helmet is a remnant of his service as major in Zakynthos (Zante) in the British army. The helmet and his armor are on display in the National Historical Museum (Stadiou street, Athens). For more information on the life of this great Greek, go here

 

During Venetian rule, Nafplio had the name ‘Napoli di Romania’. The Venetians had fortified the city and had built a single gate one could enter or exit through (1687). A reconstructed version of it survives today and it is called The Land Gate (Pyli Ksiras).

The Venetians had built a canal that ran past the gate and allowed small boats to come in from the sea and moor outside. The gate closed at sun down. Anyone who arrived after that, would have no choice but to spend the night outside. There was a military camp behind the gate – soldiers guarded it  and monitored who came and went.

The first king of Greece, King Otto from Bavaria, was offered the key to Nafplio in front of the Land Gate when he was only eighteen years old (in 1833).

This painting by Peter Von Hess from 1835 depicts the entry of King Otto to the city of Nafplio. The Land Gate is visible in the distance. All three timeless forts of Nafplio are also depicted.

The Land Gate was demolished around 1894 and the canal was gradually filled with soil. Today, it stands reconstructed with the original lion of St Mark on its top, but sadly without its head, wings and tail.

Before the gate stands a monument to a local hero of Nafplio, Staikos Staikopoulos, who freed the fort of Palamidi during the Greek War of Independence.

WHERE TO GO FROM THE LAND GATE?

Next to the aforementioned statue is a cafe with artificial waterfalls and a pond. Behind it there are some steps. If you go up to the road from here you can either take the steps to Palamidi (if you dare!!), or bear to the right and carry on uphill to Akronafplia (to the clock tower and the fort ruins) or, where the road divides into two, head down to Arvanitia beach. No matter what you choose, you’re in for unforgettable sea views and scenery (see ‘Suggested Walks’ later in this post for details and photos).

 

Constitution Square, mentioned earlier for its bustling cafes, is surrounded by magnificent neoclassical buildings, as well as two prominent landmarks: the Archeological museum and the old Mosque (Vouleftikon) with its beautiful dome. The latter was initially a Turkish mosque but when Greece was liberated it housed the first parliament of the newly formed state.

The mosque, which housed the first parliament of Greece, and the old clock on Akronafplia above (picture taken from the facade of the Archeological Museum)

Other museums worth visiting are the War Museum and the Koboloi (worry beads) Museum. Both are situated near Trion Navarchon Square.

 

Walking around Nafplio’s lanes is a pleasure in itself. There are many curio shops and wonderful eateries on offer.

 

The stepped street of Potamianou near St Spyridon leads to the Catholic church and Akronafplia (clock tower and fort ruins of Its Kale)

Many streets have steps and are so enchanting they simply beg for the amateur photographer to take a snap. These steps on Potamianou Street are situated a little after the infamous St. Spyridon Church (see a little later in this post for the church’s harrowing story!)

 

It may not look like much at first glance, but this particular corner (just before you get to the Land Gate from St Spyridon’s Church) gave me goosebumps. The signs on the opposite walls informed me that the house on the left, now Dias hotel, was once the home of Alexander Ypsilantis. Across the street, the one with the brown doors and windows used to be the home of Manto Mavrogenous. To think I was standing on the doorsteps of two legends of the Greek War of Independence left me glued to the spot. I just stood and marveled at the facades, reduced to silence for a while, taking it all in.

All the quaint streets on higher ground from the busy shops and eateries await to take you back in time, and the antiquated buildings, draped with bougainvillea, take your breath away. This time, I chose to stay at the heart of this district and I am so glad I did. My hotel, Byron Hotel, was the perfect choice and it consists of two old buildings: The one on higher ground (light blue windows) used to be a stately home, then converted into homes for poor families. The owner offered the information that each family would occupy only one room, and the one I stayed in was quite small (albeit uniquely quaint!). It made me very sad to imagine a whole family once had such a tiny space to themselves!

The church of St Spyridon stands opposite the part of Byron Hotel that used to be The French Embassy. After murdering Kapodistrias at the church’s entrance, Mavromichalis found refuge inside the Embassy.

The part of the hotel that stands on street level as well as the church across the street are harrowing parts of Nafplion’s history…

The church of St Spyridon is tiny yet beautiful. Plus, its doorstep has a huge historical value. Kapodistrias, the first governor of Greece, was once murdered at the threshold on his way in to attend mass by two members of a defiant clan of Mani: Konstantin Mavromichalis attacked with a gun and his son Georgios with a dagger. Konstantin was shot on the spot by a witness, and Georgios hid in the French Embassy across the street (Byron Hotel today). He later surrendered and was sent to the firing squad. For a detailed account of Kapodistrias’ assassination, go here

A plaque on the wall near the entry of St Spyridon tells the tale of Kapodistrias’s murder.

Fellow lovers of all things Corfu may recognize Kapodistrias from his statue in Corfu town (as well as from the Kapodistrias Museum in Evropouli, Corfu). Kapodistrias was born in Corfu, and he was a count. After serving  in Russia as the Foreign Minister, he came to Greece and was elected the first head of state when the country was liberated from the Ottoman Empire. Highly educated, an able diplomat and a clever man, he is renowned for his trick that got the locals in Nafplio to eat potato!

Kapodistrias brought potatoes to Greece hoping to feed the starving populace but the locals of Nafplio, who’d never heard of them before, were reluctant to try them. As a result, tons of potatoes began to rot in the stores. This is when Kapodistrias assigned men to unload the potatoes on the Nafplion docks and to guard them night and day, while ordering the men to turn a blind eye should the locals attempt to steal. In a very short time, now realizing they were missing on something that had high value, the locals raided the goods and soon there was nothing left!

As serendipity would have it, I was watching a documentary about Paris the other day, and it mentioned a French pharmacist called Parmentier who used exactly the same trick in Paris (way before the Greek incident with Kapodistrias). The Parisians even thought the potato was the work of the devil, but Parmentier’s ploy, with the use of guards, was a success.  I chuckled no end, and now think it’s quite probable that Kapodistrias, well-read as he was, may have taken a leaf from the French man’s book 😛

Living in Byron Hotel made it so easy to imagine the bygone era of the 1800’s… the decoration made sure of that, and the total energy of the place did too. Everyone among the staff was hospitable and eager to help. We loved the generous breakfast in the indoor sitting area, and especially the bookshelf! Being typical bookworms, Andy and I always chose to sit by it during breakfast (and in the evening for a gratuitous cup of tea) so we could browse at the books.

We both felt we should return in the summer, if only to sample the quaint outside sitting area too. It’s on the terrace of a derelict building next door that once housed Turkish baths.

Guests at Byron Hotel can sit out in the summer on the terrace of a derelict building that used to house Turkish baths

SUGGESTED WALKS

 

A WALK TO AKRONAFPLIA (AND ARVANITIA BEACH), STARTING FROM THE LAND GATE

In the above map, the squiggly line on the right represents the 999 steps to Palamidi. The Land Gate stands across from it (‘Gate of Land’ on this map). From there, if you walk alongside the old fortress wall on the right, around the bend the road splits into two (at Arvanitia Sq). From here you can either go left (downhill) to Arvanitia beach, or take the road right (uphill) that leads to Akronafplia (clock tower and the fort ruins of ‘Its Kale’). Arvanitia Square is very plain – just an open asphalted space. See later in this section for the easiest way to go to Arvanitia beach from there as this is not clearly shown on the map.

If you take the uphill road to Akronafplia, you are soon rewarded with spectacular sea views…

Behind you, the view to Palamidi is just as stunning – a magical place to be!

Go past the derelict hotel, and you’ll soon enter the old fortress area. The road is paved here, and your transportation back in time begins…

The fort of Akronafplia (or, Its Kale – ‘inner castle’ – as the Turks called it) has housed armies of various countries over time. Originally built by the Romans and Byzantines, it once housed the city itself. Later, Venetian, Turkish, and Greek armies used it, the Turks conquering it twice. The fort even housed Bavarian soldiers at some point; they were appointed here as the guard of King Otto. When they died during a typhoid epidemic, a cemetery was created for them in town and a beautiful Bavarian Lion was sculpted in the rock at the burial site to honor their memory.

NOTE: The lion still survives today and the old burial site is now a park (the remains of the Bavarian soldiers are now kept in the Catholic Church). To see the lion sculpture, get to 25is Martiou Street, and turn left to Mihail Iatrou Street. The Bavarian lion is past the church of Agion Panton. For pictures and more information about the lion, go here. For a map, go here (marked as ‘sleeping lion’).

As you continue your uphill climb past the fort ruins of Akronafplia, you’ll soon begin to find spots with breathtaking views to the city. This is also the case when you reach the clock tower.

The clock tower is a wonderful spot to enjoy the sunset from. The clock and its original tower were placed here during the rule of King Otto. In 1944 the German Army blasted the tower as it stood in the way of their artillery guns. The locals saved the clock from destruction and Greek poet Terzakis wrote a wonderful poem that spoke of  a day of freedom where the precious clock of the city would sound again. That day came to be in 1949 when a new tower was constructed in the same place and the old clock took pride of place upon it.

Leaving the clock behind, you soon get to a point where you can either continue downhill (bungalow roofs of a hotel are visible in that direction) or turn left. I suggest you go left. It’s a very short walk from there to the helipad where the road ends. This spot offers, in my opinion, the best views of Akronafplia:

Palamidi as seen from the helipad on the top of Akronafplia

This view of the slope covered by ‘Fragosykies’ (Opuntia ficus-indica) with the Palamidi in the background rendered me mesmerized. I hope the pictures can convey some of its beauty. The plants were laden with ripe fruit, but I doubt anyone would ever dare venturing down that perilous slope to get them! I risked just a few steps in that direction, enough to admire the view, and it left me truly breathless.

Head back down the same way you went…

NOTE: Another way to enter the fort of Its Kale (instead of starting your walk from the Land Gate) is to enter through its original gateway that survives today, complete with a Venetian lion emblem. You will find it as you go up the steps of Potamianou Street past the Catholic church (earlier in this post I included a photo of this stepped street that’s near St Spyridon Church).

If you fancy a quick descend down to the beach, go to Arvanitias Sq (see map) and find the path through the trees on the very right of the square.

Most people would be quite tired by this point (I know I was!) so I don’t recommend heading back to town along the beach past the lighthouse (see map – it’s about 1 km away). I suggest therefore that you go back to the Land Gate (a very short walk) where you can sit at a cafe to relax with a drink.

By all means, if you have the stamina to keep going, here’s the way to get to the lighthouse from the beach:  Go down to the rocks by the water’s edge and head right (you can walk easily on the flat rock surfaces but comfortable/non slippy shoes are a must). At some point you will find a few steps that will take you to a coastal road. The walk from here to the lighthouse is very picturesque – I share it with pictures in the next section.

 

A WALK TO ARVANITIA BEACH STARTING FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE

From the lighthouse, turn right (to a quiet coastal road) to get to Arvanitia beach.

Around the bend, beautiful corners will start to make you smile…

 

Just like on the top of Akronafplia, the slope here is covered with ‘fragosykies’ too (prickly pear or ‘opuntia ficus-indica’, in Latin). They were laden with fruit during my last visit.

Visitors have carved initials and dates on the plant leaves all over the place so, chances are, they will attract your attention too. If you’re not familiar with this plant, do not attempt to touch its fruit or cut it off. It’s not called a prickly pear for nothing 😛

This is quite a short walk that you can enjoy leisurely  on an even slope throughout. Before you know it you will be on the beach. It is frequented by swimmers throughout the year and you’re bound to spot at least one!

 

WHERE TO EAT IN NAFPLIO

I must start with my favorite – Liatero! It is a new restaurant that brims over with doll-like quaintness. Its pastel colors are bound to catch your eye! The added bonuses are the attentive, courteous stuff and the food that’s out of this world yummy. Try the linguine with sun-dried tomato and rocket, or the hand-made ravioli with spinach and sweet myzithra cheese from Naxos – then you’ll know what I mean! They also serve meat, fish, and seafood dishes.

To get to Liatero, leave Syntagma square past the right side of the Archeological Museum and turn right towards the promenade. You will see it in that lane – can’t miss it.

 

We enjoyed dinner in Vasilis taverna with live laiko and rebetiko music – a wonderful dining experience.

OTHER RECOMMENDED EATERIES:

VASILIS: Family taverna, traditional Greek food. Live music on some nights (Staikopoulou street)

CHRISTOFOROS: Family taverna, traditional Greek food (Staikopoulou street)

 

Sokaki cafe/restaurant. Venture inside for its impressive decorative features!

SOKAKI: (Cafe/restaurant) Salads, crepes, quiche lorraine, burgers other dishes. Great indoor decoration. To find it, leave Syntagma square from the right side of the Archeological Museum (as you head to the promenade). You will see it in front of you, standing in a corner.

ARAPAKOS: Family taverna, traditional Greek food – live music on some nights (Bouboulinas Street, on the promenade)

KAKANARAKIS: Housed in the former King Otto Stables (Vasilissis Olgas Street)

GYROKOMEIO GRILL: Souvlaki and other cheap eats. Good value for money! (Sidiras Merarheias street)

SOUVLOMAGIES: Souvlaki and traditional Greek food. Behind the Kapodistrias statue (in Kapodistrias Sq.) is a park. This is the old train station site (OSE company). On the other side of the green you will find the taverna on the left side of the road.

RECOMMENDED CAFES

Relax in the shade with the sound of running water delighting your ears in ‘Propolis’ (meaning, ‘before the city’) by the Land Gate

PROPOLIS: Coffee, tsipouro and meze. Waterfall scenery and sounds – situated by the Land Gate

CAFE STATHMOS: 25is Martiou Street, in the old train station site (OSE company)

NAPOLI DI ROMANIA: Akti Miaouli, on the promenade. Highly recommended. Word of warning: Not all the cafes in the promenade are good value for money (I had the displeasure to visit another, a stone’s throw away from this one, that was way more expensive and offered much lesser value)

XENION: At Syntagma square. Try ‘loukoumades me merenda’ (deep fried dough balls soaked in syrup and covered with hazelnut paste)

 

HOT TIPS FOR MOTORISTS

 

If you’re visiting Nafplio by car from Athens, a little diversion from your route to see the Corinth Canal (Isthmos Korinthou) is well worth your trouble! Just follow signs to ‘Isthmos’ or ‘Loutraki’. Here’s a post about an exciting little cruise I’ve had across the canal that’ll tell you all you need to know if you’d like to experience it too!

Places of interest near Nafplio include the seaside town of Tolo and the ancient theatre (and the museum) of Epidavros (Epidaurus). If you’re traveling by car, you can drive back to Athens via Epidavros and the village of Ligourio (Lygourio), that is, if you don’t mind an old scenic route as opposed to the new highways.

Ligourio is before (and close to) the ancient theatre of Epidavros as you leave Nafplio – many visitors stop there for lunch. Plenty of fine tavernas on offer.

If you have more days to explore, the ancient sites of Mykenae and Tiryns are great choices for the archeology enthusiasts.

 

Have you visited Nafplio? Would you like to offer a tip, share a memory, or ask a question? I look forward to your comments!

My supernatural rom com, Running Haunted, is set in Nafplio. Kelly ran a marathon and wind up running a house. With a ghost in it!  Check it out on Amazon US  UK

 

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Travel: Bruges, the stuff of fairytales

Today, I am thrilled to share my travel experience in the magical town of Bruges (Brugge) in Belgium a few years back, plus, I’m going to sprinkle some extra Hollywood fairy dust on it. If you have watched the movie In Bruges, then you are well acquainted with the hilarious camaraderie between Ken and Ray, two paid hitmen who arrive in this medieval town to await further instructions from their boss.  Bruges welcomes them shrouded in mist like a fairytale land of absolute magic. Yet, Colin Farrell who plays Ray, keeps moaning about everything from the moment he arrives. His constant winging is a brilliant act of comic relief to an otherwise thrilling tale of murder and violence. What makes his grumpiness so entertaining is the ridiculous idea that Bruges could ever be the cause of discontent.

Just an hour’s train ride away from central Brussels, Bruges greets you modestly as you exit the station, as if it were a place like any other. And then, you get to the market square (Markt) and as you raise your eyes to the misty top of the Belfort tower, you start to think that this place is perhaps not like the rest, after all.

Then you begin to look around properly, your eyes resting with admiration at the quaint buildings that line the square on the other side from the tower. Before you know it, you’re captured by the beauty of the scene, and you begin to smile as the timeless sound of horses’ hooves on cobblestones reaches your ears and carriages of a bygone era pass you by.

This is when it hits you and your eyes truly open. Everyone seems to wander around with a cheerful expression on their faces. Couples of all ages walk hand-in-hand and you decide to follow one of them, picking the one that seems to walk more confidently, guessing that they know where they’re going. Soon enough, you feel pleased with your choice because at the back of the Belfort tower where they’re headed, this is where the real magic awaits!

Every lane in that direction will sooner or later lead you to the most enchanting streets and canals. Houses are built on the very edge, walls are covered with moss or draped with ivy and every stone bridge is an invitation to cross to the other side. Andy, my husband, and I chuckled away as we visited this part as so many of these lanes and canals feature in the aforementioned movie!

In the early morning, the Belfort tower is often shrouded by mist while the rooftops below it glisten… The water is perfectly still and, as the first rays of sunshine emerge through the clouds, it begins to sparkle, the beauty of the scene taking your breath away.

It is no surprise that around Bruges, one can come across the most cheerful of tourists. Here, it is impossible not to find joy in one thing or another, such as the stunning vistas, the superb architecture, the lush greenery, or the many wonderful eateries, bars, and shops on offer.

The photos in this post were all taken during my last visit to Bruges years ago just after Christmas Day. I chose this time of year as I’d heard about the stalls and the ice rink that bring extra bustle and cheer to The Markt during the holiday season. I was well compensated for this choice!

A misty view of Bruges from the top of the Belfort tower

If you are fit enough to handle it, a visit to the Belfort (belfry) tower is a must. Beware: not for the faint-hearted or the claustrophobic.

The indoor spiral staircase seems to go up forever at no less than 366 steps. There are rooms at intermediate levels where visitors can stop to catch their breath before carrying on with their ascent. The view from the very top is spectacular and is definitely worth the trouble.

I personally never miss out on an opportunity to visit churches in historical towns and my findings in Bruges were most thrilling. First and foremost, there is The Basilica of The Holy Blood (Heilig Bloedbasiliek), a church that houses a precious holy relic: a phial that is said to contain drops of Christ’s blood. If you have watched the movie “In Bruges”, I bet you’re smirking right now! One of the most comical scenes in the movie involves Ray (Colin Farrell) begrudging Ken (Brendan Gleeson) for making him visit this church. The truth once again, is totally different. No one will fail to appreciate the beauty of this precious place of worship that was restored in Neo-Gothic style in the late 19th century. Before leaving the site, make sure to visit its hidden gem: St Basil’s chapel that is located underneath the Basilica. Although remarkably less ornate, it has a unique atmosphere and you’ll be rewarded for your time.

The Church of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk) is also a must see. Its towering spire is a key landmark of the Bruges skyline. Although the exterior was built in an austere Gothic style, the interior is classically Gothic with touches of Baroque. This church is amazing in many ways but the most fascinating thing about it is that, surprisingly enough, it houses a unique treasure of Renaissance Italy: “Madonna and Child” (1504-1505) by the legendary Michelangelo.

Walking around Bruges is a real treat for the amateur photographer as you can see in the above pictures.

 

Yet, by far, my favorite part of Bruges is Minnewater, a tree-lined lake near Minnewaterpark. Truly, it’s like entering a fairytale land. The beauty of this place continues to haunt me today. Horse carriages stop there for a short sustenance break. This is a great chance to photograph beautiful horses and the forever smiling carriage drivers, as well as the multitude of swans and ducks on the canal.

Begijnhof

Catch two birds with one stone while you’re there and visit the Begijnhof as well with its eerie ancient walls and tree-lined expanses of greenery. This beautiful enclave almost feels haunted shrouded in the morning mist. Back in the 13th century, it used to house women (béguines) who were left single or widowed by the Crusades.

Are you an art lover?

There are two major museums in the area – The Groeninge and the Memling – both of late medieval art by various artists such as Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling. There are several museums in Bruges and the truly insatiable for the arts can obtain a list at the tourist office located at The Burg (another central square close to The Markt).

 

Our fish meal in Singe D’Or (Golden Monkey) was a visual feast!

Bruges is a town of many delights and the local food and drink could not be an exception. There’s fresh seafood, traditional Belgian stews and delicious beers of many different types such as Trappist, Kriek or Lambic beer. I rather stuck happily with “Brugse Zot” which is brewed locally. The jester on its logo seems to welcome you on the menu at every bar and restaurant in town.

An order of mussels (clams) with fries is a must when in Belgium!

Staying in Bruges makes dinner time an absolute luxury. Among the local dishes I enjoyed Waterzoi (creamy fish in broth), Vlaamze Stoverij (beef stew cooked in Belgian beer), Moules Marinière e frites (steamed mussels in wine with celery and French fries) and the indispensable Chicons au Gratin (chicory leaves wrapped in ham and baked with a cheese sauce).

I highly recommend the following two restaurants:

Singe D’ Or (Golden Monkey)

I visited Singe D’ Or (Golden Monkey) in T. Zand Square for my New Year’s Eve dinner. It was reasonably priced, the ambiance was wonderful, and the seafood was fantastic!

Gran Kaffee De Passage in Dweersstraat 26 was difficult to find in the dark, but it was well worth the hassle, and you’ll do well to visit it at night too! The candlelit interior and the décor are enchanting, while the food and drink are as fantastic as can be.

 

If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll find it hard to resist temptation in Bruges! Delicious Belgian chocolates and a wide selection of waffles are available everywhere you look.

Since I mentioned my favorite eateries in Bruges, I might as well also recommend the fabulous hotel we stayed at!

Hotel Ter Brughe is situated on a quiet canal and is a five minute walk from The Markt – the quaint market square of the town, and the Belfort tower. Our room had a view to the canal and stands out in my memory for its quaintness – I must say, I loved everything about this hotel. The service was impeccable and it was beautiful everywhere you looked – including the stunning dark beams on the ceilings. 

Thinking about Bruges, one word comes predominantly to mind: Perfect. To be frank, there’s only one thing wrong with this town; the longer you stay there, the more your heart breaks when it’s time to leave it behind. It is truly difficult to adjust to this familiar, modern world afterwards. Still, as you slowly return to the rhythms and routines of your daily life, it is comforting to know that Bruges awaits you still. The fairy tale will begin again someday, the moment you return.

Have you been to Bruges? Did you travel there at a different time of year, for a specific annual event maybe? Have I missed any places of interest? Have you watched the film ‘In Bruges?’ Comment below and let us know, I’d love to hear your input 🙂

 

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Visiting Athens at Christmas

Last weekend I had a wonderful time visiting Athens. Returning to the city where I was raised is a treat throughout the year, but the Christmas lights made the travel experience truly magical. This time round I visited two different areas for the first time too, which was very exciting!

So, come! Take a walk with me around the busy streets of Athens, full of Christmas shoppers, and then join me at night too, when the Christmas lights turn the popular city corners into a magic wonderland!

After a quick check-in at our hotel, my husband and I relaxed with a coffee and a hot toast at a corner cafe in Athinas Street. It was by the town hall; Kotzia Square across the street was empty at that hour, but the strong gushes of water at its fountain and the multitude of wild pigeons around it made it a pleasure to gaze over at. Half an hour or so later, we were walking down Athinas, then round the corner at the central meat & fish market to take in the vibe of the pedestrian shopping area of Aiolou Street. This leads to Ermou Street, as you may know, which is every Athenian shopper’s paradise.

Ermou was packed, which was no surprise, especially at this time of year. Everyone seemed to be clutching shopping bags or browsing at the festive shop windows.

The famous landmark of Kapnikarea, an 11th-century Orthodox church, is situated right in the middle of Ermou Street. I loved the sight of it under the morning sunlight with a multitude of wild pigeons perching on its roof and the vibrant green bitter orange tree (neratzia) standing beside it.

As we walked up Ermou towards Syntagma (Constitution Square), we came along a rare sight – a ‘laterna’ (barrel piano). Only a handful still survive around Athens. The sight of this elegant gentleman operating it simply begged for my camera to go clicking frantically as he turned the crank and filled the crisp air with the nostalgic tones of a bygone era.

When we reached the lower part of Syntagma Square we realized our timing was off. Only a metal frame of the annual Christmas tree had been set up and the municipal workers were in the middle of putting it together. One of them, as you can see in this picture, was busy washing the covers of the street lanterns in the fountain 🙂

Note: The Christmas tree was lit up just two days after our visit. It’s very different and stylish this year and impressed the crowds that gathered to see it. You can take a look right here.

 

We felt disappointed that we weren’t going to see the Christmas tree during this visit to the city, but were compensated as soon as we went up the steps and walked over to Syntagma Square proper (and the Greek Parliament building). Just as we arrived, the guards at The Monument to the Unknown Soldier began to move. The sight of the evzones (also called tsoliades) is always a special treat!  Here’s a little taste of the perfect sync they displayed that morning:

Did you know? The foustanella (skirt of the evzon) has 400 pleats to symbolize the 400 years of slavery under the Othoman rule. Their red cap is a symbol of the blood shed by the Greeks in the Greek War of Independence in the 1820’s.

Hot tip: The evzones move around the monument like perfectly synchronized toy soldiers at half past every hour. They change over on the full hour and every Sunday at 11:00 a.m. the changing of the guards becomes a full-scale spectacle, so time your visit to Syntagma square right! The Evzones are not allowed to speak or move and can only blink to give their supervisor answers to his questions about a possible need – to ease an itch, to straighten their clothing or to wipe the sweat off their forehead, for instance. Tourists used to be allowed to stand beside them for a photo but now only children are allowed to do that. Adults stay strictly under the steps these days. The Evzones will not move from their post of their own accord, not even when their life depends on it! Back in 2001, a Molotov fell beside an evzon during a demonstration and his white-and-blue guardhouse caught fire. He didn’t bat an eyelid and only moved to save his life after receiving permission from his supervisor to do so! More info on the evzones, Greece’s pride and joy, here.

After the impressive display from the evzones (which never fails to lodge a knot in my throat!), we visited a nearby department store that sorted almost all of our Christmas shopping. By the time we finished we were ravenous so we took the Metro to our favorite area for chow 🙂 Where, I hear you say?

Well, Andy and I always wind up in Monastiraki for lunch. When it’s time for a special treat we tend to narrow our choices to either souvlaki, or fish and chips, and both are on offer there at exquisite establishments. For souvlaki we go to Bairaktaris or Savvas, for instance, but that day we both craved Guinness, mushy peas and tartar sauce 😛 So, off we went to our favorite haunt of The James Joyce Irish Pub.

We love this place, and the only thing wrong with it is it’s too far from home to enjoy more often! That’s what makes their delicious fish and chips and a pint of Guinness a memorable experience every time 😉 We didn’t go over the top, mind you, which meant we didn’t order the onion rings too, but boy, is it even better when we throw caution to the wind about our waistline! Well, next time maybe 😛

After a short rest and a shower back at the hotel, we barely had time for a cup of tea (courtesy of our generous hotel!) before heading back out, this time to enjoy the Christmas lights after nightfall.

We took the Metro to Kerameikos and made a beeline for Technopolis-Gazi. It used to be a coal gas factory back in the day, but nowadays it’s a cultural center that hosts events and exhibitions. No matter when you’re planning to visit Athens, I urge you to visit its site and see what’s on!

This month it houses The Christmas Factory, a magical wonderland for kids. Emphasis on the ‘kids’. And here, I have to do something I never do, and share a little rant. The rather pricey ticket of 5.50 euros (for Greek standards) makes sense when you’re accompanying children as they can enjoy a plethora of things. For instance, they can meet Santa, make crafts, and even go through some kind of magic tests to get a ‘wizard certificate’. So yeah, I recommend this without any qualms if you have kids in tow. If you don’t, I’d give it a miss because as an adult, you’re getting nothing for your money. Unless, of course, walking around and browsing at stalls is worth 5.50 euros in your eyes 😉

The rides may look like fun but — beware — they are not included in the ticket. For those interested to visit, here’s the site of The Christmas Factory and I suggest you book online to avoid any long queues outside the venue.

Thankfully, our good spirits were restored, and our Christmas spirit especially, when I suggested to visit Psirri. Now, I know this is silly, but I admit to have never visited Psirri before that day. In my defense, this place only became popular in the last ten years or so. Before, it was one of those shabby and grey, if not iffy, quarters of Athens not worth giving a second look. But, somehow, everyone kept banging on about it in the recent years, increasingly if I may add, so I thought it would be high time to see for myself what the fuss was all about.

Psirri is a minute away from Monastiraki square. Literally, you leave the square behind you with Ermou to your right, and enter the first lane you see in front of you across the street (like Agias Theklas or Pittaki). In under a minute you are in the vibrant heart of Psirri. The best time to visit is at nighttime as it’s bustling and magically transforms into something super-cool.

When we got there we were immediately dazzled by the lights, and overwhelmed by the nostalgic bouzouki music emanating from traditional tavernas such as the quaint ‘Orea Penteli’.

By the way, other highly recommended eateries in Psirri (from what I hear) include ‘21‘ and ‘O Mavros Gatos’.

Quaint tavernas, cafes and bars greeted us from every corner as we explored Psirri. Tiny lanes under strings of Christmas lights beckoned to us to take a closer look and we felt compelled to do it. One specific little street – Pittaki – simply took our breath away, for that is where I saw the most beautiful Christmas display of my whole life.

I read the sign and the writings on the glass window and realized to my shame I didn’t have a clue. Now, I am one of those people that never goes anywhere without preparation. To find something so awesome in my own city that had dared to go under my radar all this time seemed preposterous. What on earth is Little Kook? I asked myself. I had never heard of this place! A quick google search told me all about it. Two Greek entrepreneurs had teamed up together to make Little Kook, its strange name owed to the imaginary friend one of these cool dudes had as a child.

Little Kook serves fantastic sweets and cupcakes with a large selection of teas and coffees, but that’s not the reason why it’s hot. Those devilishly clever chaps made it infamous by decorating the hell out of it both inside and outside.

The outside of the building stood before me like Christmas incarnate, capable to charm the pants off the Christmas Grinch himself!

Only recently, the facade had been decorated in a Halloween theme, and earlier in the year it also had a circus theme according to the photos I saw on Trip Advisor. They all looked equally stunning. On the inside, there are a series of themed rooms where punters can enjoy their hot beverages and cakes. There is a ‘knights room’ and an ‘Alice in Wonderland’ room too, for instance. Among the pictures of cakes that I have seen on Trip Advisor, the Villa Hazelnut has already begun to haunt me as I am such a huge fan of praline and Ferrero Rocher.

Sadly, we were there at a popular hour and decided against joining the long queue to get in, but I’m definitely going back to venture inside and grab a piece of cake as soon as I can. Warning: Little Kook is pricey, very pricey. Something like 7 euro for a piece of cake and around 5 euro for a coffee. But if, like me, you think visiting a fairy tale wonderland is worth it, I am sure that won’t stop you 🙂

We left Psirri at around 8:00 p.m. to grab a quick bite in Monastiraki and found the square swimming with people, the odd firework shooting up to the sky every now and then. The Acropolis looked magnificent all lit up above it all. This spectacle concluded our magical, whimsical evening with sheer perfection. It made our falafel-filled arabic pittas and creamy praline croissants from Gregorys all the more divine.

The next morning we were back in Monastiraki, this time to browse through its tiny second-hand bookshops. After picking up a few gems for mere peanuts, we made a short stop in Athinas Street to buy spices from a stall outside the city’s meat & fish market. I picked up sachets of ginger, turmeric, and black caraway for 1 euro each.

Sadly, it was Sunday, otherwise I would have gone down Evripidou street  like a shot from there to buy pastourma (pastirma) from Arapian or Miran (both are historical establishments founded by Armenian refugees in the early 1020-30s), but maybe another time… Walking down Evripidou street is a unique experience on a week day, by the way. The fragrant aromas of spices are rich in the air as you browse through the merchandise on display that spills out from every facade.

Soon, it was time to head home, and we were back in our little town in under an hour. The visit to the city was short and sweet but, somehow, it was such a change from the norm that we felt really rejuvenated. When we got home, it felt like we’d been gone for days on end – a sign that we had had a good time, and that our minds were overwhelmed by beautiful new memories 🙂

Before I go, to say we loved our hotel, the Athinas Street Inn! It is a stone’s throw away from Omonia square on Athinas street and is housed in a stunning neoclassical building. I have never visited a more generous hotel! Not only were we met with open smiles and were made to feel welcome at once, but were also offered fruit as a welcome treat. Furthermore, tea/coffee making facilities plus bottled water were available to us around the clock. The breakfast was also very generous. I particularly enjoyed the cheese omelet! The room and bathroom were squeaky clean and everything smelled fresh. The room, although rather small, had many commodities including a flat TV and free wifi. They also provided disposable slippers, toiletries, and even toothbrushes. Truly, I cannot recommend this hotel highly enough 🙂

I hope this post brought back fond memories from Athens if you have visited my city before. If not, I hope I have whetted your appetite for it 😉 My city, despite its many problems, retains its original charm. It was wonderful to walk along its avenues again that are lined with imposing neoclassical buildings, and to sample anew the bustle of its pedestrian shopping streets.

If you have a fond memory to share from Athens, or for any questions, I’d love to receive your comments! Wishing you and yours, a wonderful holiday season 🙂

 

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Tales from Lesvos about Archangel Michael

On November the 8th each year, Greece celebrates angels and archangels. The Greeks with angelic names celebrate too. Aggelos, Stamatis, Michael, Gabriel and Stratos are just a few of these names.

To celebrate this big day, I am sharing here a couple of stories about Archangel Michael that locals once shared with me on the island of Mytilene (Lesvos). But first, a brief introduction to angels:

The Greek word for angel is Aggelos, which means ‘messenger’. Different kinds of angels can be found across the angelic ranks of hierarchy. The highest in rank are the Cherubim, The Sherafim and the Thrones. Three of the most revered archangels are Michael, Gabriel and Raphael.

Archangel Michael is the ultimate military ‘superhero’ that the faithful call upon when in need of protection. His name means ‘Who is like God’. All you have to do is say three times ‘Archangel Michael, protect me!’ and He is said to rush to your side to make sure no harm comes your way. Other than protection, He also provides courage and strength.

Archangel Gabriel is said to provide strength and guidance to those who need Him. His name means, ‘God is my strength’.

Archangel Raphael is the one to invoke when healing is required. His name means ‘Healing power of God’ and He responds to prayers to provide healing on a physical, emotional or mental level.

 Now, to share the stories that the locals of Mandamatho in Mytilene shared with me:

There is a monastery in Mandamatho, which I’ve had the pleasure to visit, and its church is dedicated to Archangel Michael. The church is famous for its ancient icon of the archangel as well as the iron shoes that are also on display there. According to the locals, the archangel wears the iron shoes at night and wanders around their village.

Many claim to have heard loud thuds coming from the roofs at night, and the shared belief is that this is the sound of His iron shoes as He walks around, up on roofs and on the streets, to patrol the village when the sun goes down.

Others claim to have seen His shadow wander around in the church.

The locals replace the iron shoes occasionally, and many offer new pairs from time to time too, seeing that they tend to find signs of wear and tear on them, as if someone actually wears them…

 One of the locals told me this amazing story:

There was a villager who was renowned for being highly blasphemous. All day he’d swear, using sacred names in vain, and Archangel Michael’s was one of his ‘favorites’, seeing that he used His name to swear heavily on a daily basis. One night, he saw a tall man in a dream. He looked very strong and was dressed in a military uniform. The man in the dream began to beat up the blasphemous villager pretty badly. Punches, kicks, slaps, you name it, while telling him of for his blasphemy. When the man woke up, his body was covered in bruises… Needless to say, he quickly realized he had been paid a visit by the Archangel Michael himself and stopped swearing, literally, overnight!

Another local had an even more intriguing story to share with me. It was about a man who had a sick child. One night, Archangel Michael appeared before him in a dream and made a devastating announcement – that he had come to take his sick child away. The man then began to wail, crying and begging the Archangel to reconsider. Then the Archangel said, ‘All right! I will let you choose: Shall I take your child or the cow in your field?’

‘Of course, no need to ask,’ the man replied in the dream, ‘please take the cow!’

When the man awoke, he rushed to his child’s bedside to find it was feeling a lot better, and it was eventually cured. As for the cow, the man found it that morning dead in the field.

(image by LesvosGreece.gr)

The legend surrounding the ancient icon of Archangel Michael goes like this:

The monastery was raided one day by Saracen pirates who attacked the monks and slaughtered them. Only one survived to tell the tale; it was a young monk who managed to hide on a roof and watched the massacre from up there. According to legend, afterwards, he saw a vision of Archangel Michael hovering over the slaughtered bodies of the monks.

Inspired by the vision, and to honor their memory, he took some of the blood-stained soil, mixed it with wax and made the Archangel’s face as he remembered it. Today, only the head of the full-body icon is on display.

 

Take a 3D walk around the monastery grounds in Mandamatho, and see the infamous icon and other relics inside the church to the sound of ecclesiastic hymns. GO HERE (Language is Greek)

 

Other than the protector of Mandamatho (and the island of Mytilene in general), Archangel Michael is also the protector of the Hellenic Air Force. Every year, on November the 8th and for a couple of days earlier, the Hellenic Air Force celebrates with various events to honor Him. If you’re reading this post near the big day, check out their site for any events near you. Go HERE

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Do angels tell the time?

 Today, I’d like to share a delightful anecdote from my daily visits to the beach this past summer. It involves a spooky interaction with my angels that both my husband and I experienced and marveled at!

Those who, like me, believe we all have guardian angels watching over us will find it inspiring, no doubt. As for the non-believers among you, I hope you will read this true account with an open mind and wonder what if, just what if, it couldn’t all be down to coincidence…

At the end of the day, the decision is yours. You be the judge! Here’s what happened:

This summer just gone, I drove down to the local beach most mornings. I always put an old watch in my beach bag so I could keep track of the time but one day, I used a different bag and forgot to put in the watch. I realized it wasn’t in the bag when I took out my flippers, before getting in the water. While I swam, I spared a thought for the watch I’d left back home and entertained myself with the thought that perhaps someone from the locals in the water would shout out the time at some point.

Note that the locals may chat a lot among themselves while swimming but as a rule they don’t shout out the time. But, for some reason, I thought of my angels who always deliver whenever I am in need of something, be it big or trivial, and that thought just formed in my mind.

Shortly after, I forgot all about that, distracted by the cool bliss of the sea as I splashed around and did a few lengths with my exercise flippers. Out of the blue, just as I was thinking it was perhaps time to get out for a spot of sunbathing (‘cos a trip to the beach is also about getting your daily dose of Vitamin D, right?) I heard a local shout out, “What’s the time?”

Startled, I turned and realized the question had come from an old lady in the water. She had asked someone who was on the beach. I pricked my ears just as the prompt reply came, “Twenty to twelve.”

I didn’t think much about it at that point, thinking that perhaps it was a coincidence, but it did make me chuckle, and I whispered a thank you to my angels, just in case 😛

I went out to lie down and enjoy the sun for about 20-30 minutes – the time I allowed daily to soak up some sunshine before heading back home. As I lay on my mat later on, I heard someone else shout from far away, asking the time again! The answer echoed just as loudly. It was twelve, a point in time where I’d be checking my watch if I had it with me. And, of course, it was high time I went home so I got up and packed my stuff, pretty amazed by then… People had told the time twice that morning, loud enough for me to hear. On other days that hadn’t happened, not even once. Also, the telling of the time had come at the right points that I needed to know it – i.e. when I was supposed to leave the water (even though I never asked for that!), and when I should be leaving the beach.

Stay with me, as this is not the end. The best is yet to come…

When Saturday came, as my husband wasn’t working, he visited the beach with me, like every other weekend.

As we swam, I relayed what happened that day and we were having a laugh about it. Here I must explain that even though my husband, Andy, doesn’t have any personal experiences with receiving angelic messages, he has an open mind and finds the spooky stuff that I often share with him quite inspiring. So that morning I saw the familiar look of amazement in his eyes and suggested a little game – that we agree to call on our angels to repeat this for us that day. Andy was delighted with the idea. I told him the thing to do was to agree it would happen, having full faith it would, then totally put the thought aside. I explained to him that that was the trick and it was really important. So once we agreed we wanted our angels to tell us the time, we carried on with our swim and didn’t give it another thought.

Andy got tired of swimming first, like he always does, seeing that he is a marathon runner and always practicing for his next run. As a result, he thinks of a swim as a lazy, cooling interlude between his morning run and his lunch, while for me it is the ultimate workout of about 45 minutes. So, anyway, half an hour later or so he was out, stretched out on his beach mat, while I continued to dive and float like a sea otter in aquamarine heaven.

At some point, I turned around, and saw Andy gazing at me, sat up stiffly on his mat, a bright expression on his face that was alight with amazement.

When I asked what had happened he said a couple had just walked past him and, just as they did, the woman had asked the man, “What is the time?” to which he had replied, “Twenty to twelve.”

You should have seen my husband’s face! He couldn’t believe it and couldn’t work out how this could be a coincidence. Not only had the woman asked the time, but she’d done it just as they were passing by Andy (so he would be close enough to overhear as they were almost whispering to each other). Plus, the time was twenty to twelve – just as the first time I’d overheard someone earlier that week.

I hope you will agree there’s some sort of a pattern here! Perhaps those who think the world is ruled by randomness will dismiss this as a coincidence, and it would be your prerogative to believe what you choose to believe. The rest of you, though… the kindred spirits… Just think! Just think what that means!

For me, the sea is a place where I think of angels a lot… Partly because I often pray, meditate or reflect heavily when I’m in there…. and partly because, for some reason, in the local beach I find feathers floating on most days. That doesn’t happen anywhere else. And it’s impossible for me to see a feather anywhere and not think of angels anyway. So I guess on both counts my conviction was strong that my angels were listening when I wondered if someone, unprompted, would mention the time.

And now I am thinking, if angels respond so promptly and with such perfect timing to trivial requests, imagine what miracles they can do for us for the big stuff, if only we ask!

Till next time, keep believing this world is a magical place… The way I see it, the world is exactly what you think it is. And if you have the choice to decide what it is, why go for anything different? 😉

Albert Einstein said it best with this quote: “The most important question any human being can ask themselves is: ‘Is this a friendly universe?'”

Do you believe in angels? Do you have a similar tale to tell? Add a comment and share. I’d love to hear it!

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Do angels exist? Here’s what I believe…

The word ‘angel’ originates from the Greek ‘aggelos,’ which means ‘messenger.’ Many angel sightings have been recorded in the Bible; these angels appeared before the faithful to offer messages that provided assistance or hope.

Actually, angels have been recorded in the scriptures of many faiths around the world. Today, especially with the use of the Internet, it is very easy to learn more about them. People are sharing online their own testimonies, whether these involve proper angelic encounters or messages received by their angels.

They say that every one of us has a guardian angel, and I believe it firmly to be so. I have always had this intense feeling that I am being protected. In my travels as a youngster around Greece and Europe, whenever I needed assistance locals would come along out of the blue to help me out without me even asking. For example, if I needed an interpreter, to lift something heavy or if I was in danger of getting stranded somewhere.

However, one particular incident stands out because it didn’t entail the assistance of a human being and, to this day, I cannot explain it unless I put it down to an angel or two…

It happened on a wintry night in London back in the 1990s. I had just watched a marvelous show in a West End theatre and was running to the bus station to catch the last bus of the day to Hythe, Kent where I was staying at the time.

It had been snowing that day and there was ice on the roads. As I was running, all of a sudden I slipped, and then, everything switched to slow motion. I felt myself getting airborne, my body tilted sideways, my legs rising up to be almost parallel to the ground. Panic struck at my heart as I realized that I was going to fall hard and hurt myself badly.

At that point, I remember thinking with dread that not only was I not going to catch that bus home after all, but that I was probably going to spend the night in a hospital bed with a broken limb or two…
And then, something incredible happened.

Just like that, and even though my legs were parallel to the ground, somehow, I landed on my feet again! It felt like an invisible hand had just turned me upright!

Stunned, but with the urgency still at hand, I kept running. I am pleased to say I did catch that bus, but the mystery I never got to solve. Over time I’ve thought, about it many times, and the only logical explanation I can give is that my angels came to my aid that night.

That was the only time an angel came to my rescue directly. As I stated earlier, they normally help me by getting kind people to offer assistance instead.

But this doesn’t mean my angels stop there. Oh no. Often, they give me messages out of the blue. More often than not, these come on the days that I feel upset, or worried about something. This is their way to confirm their presence around me and, of course, it gives me strength every time. I am not talking about the typical white feather that you may have heard of, and which I often encounter on those days even in the sea while I swim!

My angels’ messages often come unexpectedly when I read something on my computer and have the radio or the TV playing at the same time. This is a wonderful way to get messages from your angels, by the way! The odd word will come to you from both sources at the same time, i.e. you will hear it from the radio or the TV at the exact moment you’ll be reading it on your computer or book or whatever.

But you mustn’t look for it. Just have the sound playing in the background as you read, forget about it, and see what happens in a while. It also helps if you take a moment beforehand to sit quietly to talk to your angels, present the problem, and ask them to offer guidance.

Other than the above, my angels love to communicate with me by touching my face. That said, it doesn’t feel like a touch – it’s like an electric pulse that comes and goes in a split second. I get to feel it just above my eye or high on the corner of my brow at my hairline most times, and I know it’s them. I always take a moment to say thank you when this happens.

Last, but certainly not least, my angels sometimes make small things move around the house when my attention is really required!

The first time this happened was a few years back and it really freaked me out. Yet, it was quite amazing, so I feel compelled to share this with you today:

That morning, I was working on my computer at home. Before my desk, I have a pinboard. A post-it note that I had pinned on it days earlier suddenly dropped and landed on my desk before me the right way up and the right way round. It felt like it had been put there for me to read. In this note I had written a quote (a paraphrase from Rumi), which read: “I am not a drop in the ocean. I am the ocean in a drop.”

Astounded, I read it back to myself as it lay before me, as if put there by an invisible hand, and I knew that moment it was an angelic message that spoke about inner strength. Here, I must explain that I work in a windowless room. All the windows in my house were closed at the time so this couldn’t have been caused by a draft. No music was playing either – so this wasn’t a case of sound waves causing vibrations.

A week later, my shoulder began to hurt more from an injury I had suffered recently. The pain kept increasing so I went to the doc and the diagnosis was frozen shoulder. The next five months were harrowing for me and the pain indescribable, especially at night. I slept very little during these five months. Every night ,I wandered around the house for hours like a zombie seeking a modicum of comfort as I rubbed heat-inducing cream on my shoulder and cried my eyes out.

Throughout those five months, somehow, despite the upset and the exhaustion, I didn’t miss a single day at my desk writing, blogging, and promoting my novels – even on the worst days when I could only type with one hand.

Of course, during that difficult time, the angelic message I had received kept reminding me how strong I was. I could see then in hindsight that my angels had warned me things were going to get tough so I could brace myself. I am forever grateful for that message, because it told me I wasn’t going to go through the hardship alone and that truly saw me through.

As I stated earlier, the first time something moved in front of me of its own volition it really freaked me out. Since then, my angels have communicated with me in the same manner on two other occasions – in both cases, to warn me that tough times for me or my loved ones were about to start. By now, I don’t get spooked any more when things move inexplicably; I just feel really grateful for this communication and it always fills me with awe.

These messages from my angels have inspired me to write The Amulet, a delightful romantic comedy with angels that even features the aforementioned pinboard incident.

Do you feel the presence of angels around you? How do they communicate with you? Some people see or hear them, others feel their touch, and others perceive their presence through wonderful aromas, like the scent of roses when there are none around. If you know what I’m talking about, do leave a comment and share your experience with us!

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Greek travel: Sifnos, the sparkling gem of the Aegean

Kastro, Sifnos

Pure white like a sundrenched pebble, and full of delights waiting to be found in every corner, the Cycladic island of Sifnos has the power to capture your heart and keep it forever. Then, you simply have no choice but to return again and again, retracing your steps to the same magnificent vistas, alluring beaches of fine sand, and the quaint white-washed yards that are bound to enchant you wherever you go. The same happened to me the first time I visited this island in my early twenties, and today, even though I’ve returned there several times over the years, its pull on me remains simply irresistible.

But don’t just take my word for it: walk with me today and see the beauty of Sifnos through my eyes: I promise you will be amazed, but make no mistake:  Sifnos is neither Mykonos nor Santorini. If Greek islands were women, Sifnos wouldn’t be a cosmopolitan chick, and not much of a socialite either. Sifnos would be shy and demure, yet drop dead gorgeous, an excellent cook, highly religious, and would dabble with pottery as a hobby. Hooked? Righ-y-o! Let the journey begin!

Kamares, Sifnos

As soon as the ferry docks, you’re already in love. Kamares has a ragged beauty that renders you breathless from the ferry’s deck, before you even set foot on the island. White-washed buildings perch on dark rocky soil on the side of the hill, a quaint seafront is lined with tavernas, a golden beach of fine sand stretches beyond and, above all that, an imposing mountain with a church on its very top completes the magnificent vista. The idyllic sight makes you feel small, like you have just shrunk to nothing, which is why I can never arrive at Sifnos and escape that familiar sense of awe that always catches in my throat.

For me, Kamares is the ideal place to stay on Sifnos. You can swim straight after breakfast, then have a leisurely walk around the shops. Shops, tavernas and bars will be just a stone’s throw away from your room. And even a beautiful pottery lab or two to browse through. Don’t miss the chance to visit at least one of many pottery workshops all over the island – seeing it’s an old tradition here and the artifacts are exquisite.

Rent a car or scooter, or take a bus or taxi, and explore the rest of the island from Kamares.

The island capital, Apollonia, takes its name from God Apollo and I find it suitable seeing that Apollo is the God of light and this town is simply dazzling! Apollonia is a pleasure to lose yourself in. Its whitewashed lanes and quaint edifices shine in the sunlight. The splashes of vibrant color, mainly from window shutters and flowers in the yards will find you using your camera fervently.

A short visit to the beautiful, whitewashed Monastery of Panayia Chrysopigi is a must as you drive from the capital towards the beach of Platis Yalos. Legend has it that when the Saracen pirates attempted to invade it, the Virgin Mary made a massive chunk of rock under their feet break away and plummet into the sea, taking them down with it.

A word of warning: Wandering around here in beachwear/shorts is fine but if you plan to go indoors to see the miraculous, ancient icon of the Virgin Mary, have a long skirt handy (for women) or long trousers (for men) as well as a shirt/top that covers your shoulders, otherwise you won’t be allowed entry. This is a strict rule observed in monasteries all over Greece, sometimes in churches too.

If you drive to Platis Yalos afterwards, it will start to reward you for your preference before you even get there – the stunning vista of the bay as you approach will take your breath away. Take your time to enjoy the beach. It has everything you need. Sparkling waters, fine sand, a good selection of tavernas and even more pottery on display if you feel up to it. Regarding the food: the meals you will sample in Sifnos will be exquisite no matter where you go. This is no surprise seeing that the very first famous Greek chef came from this island. His name was Tselemendes and his book, the first comprehensive cookery book that was ever published in Greece, became such a hit when it came out in the 1930s that, to this day, the word ‘tselemendes’ remains a synonym in Greek for ‘cookery book’.

Make sure to visit Kastro in the late afternoon and stay till the sunset as this can be a stunning spectacle from here. Besides, the light at this hour is ideal for taking photographs and, believe me, when you get there you’ll want to use a camera!

Kastro is a fortified cluster of ancient houses that takes you back in time and enchants you with every step you take. It was built high above the sea with walls and archways so the locals could fight off the Saracen pirates back in the day (9th century A.D.)

Make sure to scroll down to the bottom to watch a short video of me showing you around Kastro!

 

Below Kastro, at sea level, the whitewashed church of The Seven Martyrs (Epta Martyron) with its sky-blue dome is perched on the dark rock, a jewel to behold from above. A quaint stone stairway winds itself down to it, the view from the top so enchanting it always makes my heart stop.

 

Sea view from Artemonas, Sifnos at the old windmill (the site is now a tourist resort)

At a close distance From Kastro, you will find the village of Artemonas. Drive uphill to the old windmill (O Mylos tou Spitha). The view from up here is just as spectacular.

If you have several days to explore, other beautiful beaches worth visiting beside Platis Yalos are Faros and Heronissos and the one at Kastro.

I’ve already mentioned the pottery, which is a traditional profession on the island. If you visit any pottery workshops you’ll probably feel compelled to get a little souvenir. Go for a tiny quaint vase with a lid, or a proper cooking pot, if only for making the fabulous chickpea soup the Sifnos way (Revithada). It is a notorious dish in Greece, not just for being extremely tasty, but also for the unusual way in which it is cooked: The people of Sifnos make it in wood ovens, cooking the meal overnight in a ceramic pot that’s been sealed with dough around its lid. Of course, urban housewives all over Greece make it in their ovens in a similar way, baking it for about 3-4 hours only – and it does get the consistency right.

Other than pottery, there are many other types of local produce you can buy, such as: local cheeses, sweets & pastries, organic thyme honey, capers, wine, herbs, handmade jewellery, and hand-woven blankets and rugs that are made on traditional looms. 

Sifnos is a small island, which means a stay of 3-4 days is enough to adequately explore all the places of interest mentioned here. Wander around, as far and wide as you wish, and you will be rewarded with enchanting beauty in every corner. For one, everywhere you look, the hedges glint under the sunlight thanks to a stone from the local quarries used heavily for building purposes here. It is this endearing sight of the sparkling stone that has caused me to pick the name ‘Asimi’ (silver) for the fictitious Sifnos village where I set my supernatural romantic comedy, The Amulet.

Katie has a guardian angel… she just doesn’t know it. Plus, she’s falling for him.

Check it out on Amazon US  UK

Another endearing sight around the island of Sifnos involves the traditional pigeon houses that are stunning to behold and can be found everywhere, sometimes standing on their own in the middle of fields. See here for more info:

http://www.wondergreece.gr/v1/en/Regions/Sifnos/Culture/Monuments_sights/2872-Pigeon_Houses

Before you go: Watch the below short video and let my hubby, Andy, and me show you around Kastro (well, down one lane mostly, but it’s a super-pretty one!)

Excuse the evident sunburn on my back – it’s owed to the long bike rides I had on the island that time sans suntan lotion! Yeah, I know. Live and learn 😛

FOR MORE INFO ON SIFNOS, VISIT THIS EXCELLENT TRAVEL SITE FOR GREECE: https://www.greektravel.com/greekislands/cyclades.htm#Sifnos

 

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Remembering my grandparents, Spyros and Antigoni Vassilakis

Spyros and Antigoni Vassilakis

My mother was born and raised in Corfu, and her parents, Spyridon (Spyros) and Antigoni became in time like second parents to me. Way more than grandparents are, and not just because they have always been visiting us in Athens in the winter, but also because I got to spend 3-month holidays with them in Moraitika, Corfu, on their small home on the hill, mainly throughout the 1980s.

My granny, with whom I shared a very special bond, passed away on May 2, 2016. Granddad died a few years earlier, in  on May 5, 2010. As a result, early May for me has become a time that inevitably brings me sadness, but somehow floods my mind with loving memories and fills my heart with blessings at the same time, too.

Having inherited my grandparents’ house in Moraitika, it was hard opening the door and finding an empty house inside for the first time after my grandmother’s passing. What’s more, I was burdened with the gruesome task of having to go through my grandparents’ belongings, deciding what was to keep, what to throw, and what to give to charity. The task took days, and it was a surreal experience.

Being interspersed with short bursts of summer holiday fun, it felt odd to do this too but, somehow, my mission was accomplished. At the end of my holiday, I had given loads of clothes and medical equipment no longer needed to a couple locals, who were grateful to have them, my husband and I had scrubbed dirty and moulded walls and ceilings clean, the house was tidy and aired after having being left uninhabited for a long time, and our minds were enriched with beautiful new holiday memories.

I share with you today a couple photos I took while sorting through my grandparents’ personal belongings. I found these in their aged bedside cabinets.

I quickly recognized all the items in the above photograph from old memories and was deeply moved to see Gran Antigoni had kept a couple of the handkerchiefs I used when I was little. The moment I saw them I remembered them as mine. Those among you who have holidayed in Corfu in the 70s and 80s may recognize the item in the middle as a pill box. They were all the rage in the 80s, being sold in many shapes and with various depictions on them in the souvenir shops at the time.

As for granddad’s things, the only item I didn’t recognize was the binoculars. They are dented, as you can see, and you couldn’t see much through the lenses, but he must have been fond of them as he kept them all the same. I can only imagine how many years he must have had them! As for the torch, Granddad had a few, and this one is the oldest I can remember and probably his favourite! It’s the one he used during our annual ‘pizza nights’ at the beach when the August moon was out – a memory that made its way into The Ebb, the semi-biographical novel I wrote to share my love for my grandparents with the world. Speaking of The Ebb, which is set in 1980s’ Moraitika, this is for my readers: Sofia’s dented fork is also real… and I have proof. Scroll down below to see a photo of it 🙂

Granddad Spyros, born in Moraitika in 1913, was one of the children of Stefanos Vassilakis, the priest and teacher of Moraitika in the early 1900s. Granddad never had an education beyond elementary school but his impeccable manners towards family and friends as well as his loving, giving heart were prominent parts of his character. During the forty odd years that I was blessed to have him in my life he’d always been upbeat, sweet and loving and I never witnessed him lose his temper or fight with anyone, not even when he had every right to. And believe me, in my typically dysfunctional Greek family he had many opportunities to act that way.

Being the son of a preacher, Granddad spent Sunday mornings sitting with a radio and chanting along to the priest and the hymn singers. He also chanted in the church with gladness whenever asked. As I share in The Ebb, he had an odd affinity for the TV remote control, driving Gran to a frenzy. Actually, all his eccentricities that I share in the book are true, and he was a man who loved to laugh and entertain others too. Near the end of his life, he kept asking us to be merry when he dies, saying he wanted people to laugh, not cry, at his funeral. I last spoke to him (on the phone from Athens) three days before his passing at the age of 97. His mind was crystal clear, his voice jovial, like a young boy’s. His answer to my question ‘How are you?’ was a hearty laugh and the typical answer, “Got to be here another day!”

Granddad loved a good joke. Once, when he was well into his 90s, we were sitting around the table and he was laughing his head off with his own morbid joke. He had recently paid the council for a family grave and had had it decorated with the marble top and cross, and even his own picture, ready for the big day! Apparently, a local had passed by and seen the grave and told another: ‘Crikey! When did Spyros Vassilakis die? I never heard!” Someone had told Granddad and he relayed it around the table, laughing heartily at the ridiculous notion someone had thought him dead, even though he had set the scene perfectly for anyone to be fooled! And that was Granddad. He had this wicked sense of humour that often annoyed Gran and led to those ‘fights’ at the table that always caused me and my sister to exchange glances and chuckle no end.

Granddad also loved to joke with his friend Andriana, a local woman, and mother of Leftis from Romantica. Granddad and Mrs Andriana had approximately the same age and often joked with each other, betting who would pass away first! As he lay in his bed towards the end, Granddad heard the church bell toll intermittently in the typical single strike that signalled a death in the village. He turned to Gran and said, ‘Andriana’s gone’, which was indeed the toll of the bell for her passing, but we will never know if it was just a guess or if he knew somehow. The next day he died too.

Above all Granddad’s delightful eccentricities, one stands out for me as the most endearing: he always carried a little plastic comb in his shirt pocket and loved for me and my sister to comb his hair when we were little. Ever since I remember myself this ritual kept going strong. When I stayed or visited his house in Athens as a little girl he’d sit on his armchair, pat his shirt pocket and give me a cunning grin. I’d then rush to him, take the comb from his pocket and begin to comb his hair for a long time, the longer the better for him, but it was something I enjoyed too so much that time just flew. Often, before I knew it, he’d be fast asleep while I did this, sometimes even snoring loudly! He’d often wake up a little later to find he had all sorts of plaits braided on his head with colourful plastic hair clips at the end of them. He had the softest, snow-white thin strands and to this day I remember how they felt in my hands.

Outside the house in Moraitika – early 2000s

When Granddad passed away in 2010, I asked Gran if she had one of his combs to give me. She gave one to me and one to my sister and we both treasure them. Often, when the going gets tough in my life, I take it in my hands and tell Granddad my troubles. It always helps me to soothe any kind of heartache or mental strain – the comb having been established as the ultimate symbol of his love in my heart and mind.

I was deeply moved and very fortunate to find these old documents in an envelope in my granny’s bedside cabinet last summer. Time had rendered them gossamer thin but the writing is still legible in most places and it’s been preserved quite well despite the dozens of humid winters. These documents were my granddad’s call to military duty twice: the first in 1935 and the other in 1945.

The document of 1935, when Granddad Spyros was 22, had him registered as a coffee shop seller who was assigned to serve as a telephonist in the Communications Corp (I translate all this to the best of my ability seeing I am not familiar with military jargon). The rules that were mentioned overleaf state that the person called to duty was obliged to appear on the date specified. It was also stated that a delay of one day in showing up would result in imprisonment, while a delay of two or more days would automatically declare the person a deserter, which was punishable by death, or a life sentence in prison if evidence was put forward for their defense. There was also a clear instruction in bold to treat the assigned post and the document itself as confidential.

The document of 1945 called my granddad to duty in Acharnes, Athens in September 30th, 1945. He was 32 at the time. The document listed the same kind of rules overleaf, although with less severity compared to the other document. It was also stamped in Patra in October 1945 and there’s writing beside it but sadly it’s impossible to make out what it says.

What I do know about granddad’s service during the war was that he fought in Albania and when released from duty he returned to Corfu on foot. I also know that in Corfu he was stationed in two places: the (Venetian) Old Fortress in Corfu Town and in the Palace of Mon Repos in Kanoni. In the latter, he served as a cook and rubbed shoulders with Greek and English officers.

Gran is pictured with one of her brothers and her father in Corfu town

Gran Antigoni was born in Lefkas (Lefkada) in 1924. Her father, Nikolaos Kopsidas from the village of Karya, Lefkas, owned two inns in the island capital but a devastating earthquake that destroyed many buildings in town, including his two businesses, forced him to leave the island and seek a new life for himself and his family in Corfu. Granny was about four when she moved to Corfu. Brought up in the ancient quarter of Campielo of Corfu town, she spoke melodically, her vocabulary rich with unfathomable Italian-sounding words dating from the island’s occupation by the Venetians. When she was nineteen, one of her brothers made friends with my granddad who was thirty years old at the time. Granddad would often say that when he first led eyes on my demure grandmother she was wearing a long pleated skirt and the sight made him loose his mind (‘tin itha ke vourlistika’, were the exact words!). The rest is history, as they say.

From left to right, Ioanna, Gran, and Stephania

Granny lived and breathed for her daughters, Ioanna (my mother) and Stephania, who were also brought up in Campielo.

When I came to be, it was a story of love both ways. Granny and I soon developed a very strong bond. When I was little I’d often stay in her rented house (in Athens back then) and I was so attached to her I called her ‘mama’ (mum) and refused to fall asleep unless she held my hand. Gran would often laugh and say I gave her a hard time back then, seeing that as soon as she moved her hand away from my grasp I’d snap my eyes open, which meant she had to give me her hand and wait for me to fall asleep all over again.

 

Although my grandparents lived in Athens when I was little, we often visited Corfu in the summer to stay with my aunt Stephanie’s family in Garitsa (coastal quarter of the town next to Anemomylos). My grandparents had inherited a small quarter of my great-grandfather’s house in Moraitika but they needed to build upon it to make it a proper home with the necessary commodities first. They managed this in the early 1980s so I began to spend my summer holidays for three months at a time in the village as of then.

In The Ebb, I share many of the terms of endearment Granny used to address me. There is an entertaining one I didn’t share, which tickled my husband’s funny bone so much he uses it for me now. The term is ‘kontessa’ (countess), my granny’s way of teasing me whenever, as all kids occasionally do, I acted lazy or self-indulgent. Every time my husband Andy calls me that now if, say, I snooze a little longer in bed, there is a tug in my heart, but the feeling is wonderful, knowing the term  of endearment survived, somehow.

In the few last years before her passing at the age of 92, I was been blessed to have had Gran stay in my house in Nea Peramos (near Athens) for a month or so at a time during the winter. Back in 2011, when the above pictures were taken, I had a dog, Nerina, a sweet and benevolent soul. I guess she must have found in Gran a kindred spirit, as she’d follow her around the house, especially when Gran cleaned fish at the sink as you see in the above photo. To stretch her legs, I often took Gran to the seafront for a stroll and as Gran loved eating fish, she often proposed we buy some for lunch straight from the fishing boats.

On sunny days, more often than not, she would suggest a walk in the fields around the house to pick wild greens. You’d think a 90-year-old would cringe at the thought but Granny was tireless. She didn’t mind at all bending over for an hour to pick greens and often did a little gardening too, picking sprouts of spearmint from one place to put them in a new spot, or just watering my plants. She loved to be around plants and did the same in her tiny yard in Moraitika till the day she left it behind the last time.

 

My grandparents’ children, Ioanna (my mother) and Stephania

 

When Gran and Granddad started their life together in the 40s, times were hard. If they needed to visit Moraitika from Corfu town, they often walked the whole way. That’s a 45 minute ride in the bus today! As a young married couple they lived in Campielo as I said before where, to make ends meet, Granddad used to do deliveries for a refreshment company. He made the deliveries all over town riding a horse carriage. During the summer, he worked a lot more hours to meet the higher demand, often on all days of the week. He’d leave home at first light and return after dark when the kids were in bed. As a result, his little daughter, Stephania, called him ‘o babas o chimoniatikos’ (winter dad) as this was the only part of the year where she got to see him.

Later in life, to seek a more secure future, my granddad took his family to live in Athens where he worked at the Skaramangha shipyard. In my debut novel, The Necklace of Goddess Athena, I mention the scrap fabric pieces that the workers used to clean their hands from the dirty work. Granddad would often take the odd scrap home and Granny made clothes for their children from them.

Back in Moraitika is where sheer bliss began to pour into my life. Roughly from the age of 12, I began to stay with my grandparents nearly every summer from early June to early September. I played and swam daily with a multitude of cousins and village children and as neighbours I had a host of great-uncles and great-aunts who’d each inherited a part of my great-grandfather’s big house. Every morning would find me and the other children playing with a ball or cards under the mulberry tree or on the cemented step that can still be found today outside the house.

The mulberry tree in front of the house always causes myriad fond memories to come to surface. This lane that leads to the village church has been my playground for many happy summers.

Towards midday, we’d all descend to the beach in large numbers for our daily swim. In the afternoons, after our siesta, my cousins and I would go for long walks accompanied by my grandparents or the odd great-uncle. One of them, Great-Uncle Lilis who was a retired teacher at the time accompanied us in our walks military-style, shouting out ‘ena-dyo, en-dyo’ to give the marching rhythm but of course we kids laughed it off. We did find it endearing though so from time to time indulged him by parading like little soldiers for him as he followed last on the side of the road, supervising us.

Most of the time, we’d walk along the Corfu-Lefkimmi highway and stopped at Messonghi past the tiny bridge near the turn off to Agios Mattheos where the petrol station is today. Beside it on the corner, there was a cafe owned by my uncle Thanassis Tsatsanis from Messonghi. This was our resting place for a refreshment or a sweet before our long walk back home on the hill in Moraitika.

All the things fun I just mentioned, interspersed with out-of-this-world good meals prepared by my granny only repeated themselves the next day and the next after that, for three months at a time. I am sure, therefore, you can imagine my joy every time June came when I was a youngster, and the absolute heart-wrenching sorrow that hit me when September arrived each year and it was time to go.

 

As I have said many times and also recorded in The Ebb, Gran Antigoni was an amazing cook and prepared her meals in a tiny kitchen barely big enough for two people to stand in it. These photos from the early 2000’s serve as proof!

 

Speaking of proof, here is a picture of the dented aluminum fork described in The Ebb. Every summer, on my first day in the house, Gran would take it out of her ancient cabinet drawer and set it in front of me at the table with a glint in her eye as Granddad chuckled. You can imagine what it means to me now they are gone. I took this photo last summer, and it was quite emotional when I set it down on the table to eat with my husband, without either of my grandparents present for the very first time. But of course, their love remains inside me, safe, where neither time nor death can ever take it away.

Below, I share a couple videos from happy days with my grandparents. These were taken in the summer of 2004.

The two first videos feature my conversations with my grandparents as I take the video and Andy and Granddad watch Gran BBQ fish for our lunch. During that time we elaborated a lot on the fact Granddad was difficult to cook for because there were many foods he didn’t like much (fish and meat included). I then tried to convince him to have some fish but he seemed intent on only having the boiled greens and skordalia (garlic dip) that were to be served with it. By the time Gran serves at the table, she and I have managed to annoy him somewhat to a hilarious effect right at the end of video 3.

“San polla de lete?” (Don’t you think you’re talking too much?) quips Granddad in his typical mock-stern tone. It made my grandmother and I laugh many times as we watched this video together after his passing. Grandma would laugh while her fingertips caressed his face on my tablet’s screen, the words ‘Spyro mou…’ issued wistfully and repeatedly from her lips.

I hope you’ll find the videos entertaining, even those among you who don’t understand much Greek, if only for the mannerisms and the real-life depiction of a typical ‘row’ between my grandparents at meal times as described in The Ebb.

 

I truly believe that Granny and Granddad were sister souls. They were married together for 67 years and remained in love till the last day when Granddad died peacefully in his bed in Granny’s arms. Granny often relayed how he opened his eyes and gave her one last, intense look, before he closed them again, this time, forever. Granny said it felt like he was aiming to take her image along with him.

Last year, my grandmother’s parting words to me were said over the phone and during a rare moment of lucid thinking as osteomyelitis had long begun to cloud her mind since her fatal fall. Even though she kept silent or mumbled to herself whenever I phoned the old people’s home in Limnos where she spent her very last days, during that call I was lucky to make out these words: ‘Na eisai kala kyra mou, na eisai panta kala’ (may you be well ‘my lady’, may you always be well). I knew that day this was goodbye. And I was right; she died just a couple days later. I do hope in her heart she knew I was there when that happened, if only in spirit.

Goodbye Grandma. Goodbye Granddad. Until we meet again.

 

Wondering what Moraitika, Corfu is like? Visit my guide to Moraitika and marvel at the endless possibilities of summer holiday fun on offer.

 

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Beach fun and sweet romance mixed with magic spells and bird shifters! The Raven Witch of Corfu is an original story that will rivet you with its unrelenting suspense. The final twist will blow your mind! Available in paperback , box set or 4 kindle episodes! Visit Amazon

 

 

 

 
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GODDESS ATHENA AND HER SACRED TEMPLE, THE PARTHENON

Today, I am re-issuing an old post of mine. It is about Goddess Athena and her magnificent temple on the Athens Acropolis – the Parthenon. I hope you’ll enjoy it!

Goddess Athena was greatly revered by the ancient Greeks. One of her many epithets, Pallada (or Pallas), was owed to the peculiarity of her birth. According to legend, she sprang forth from the forehead of her father Zeus, fully armed and shaking her spear fiercely, making a fearsome sound. The word Pallada is derived from the Greek word ‘pallein’ which means ‘to shake’.

This divine young virgin was among other things, the goddess of wisdom and justice. Her sacred symbols include the owl and the olive tree. According to legend, she challenged Poseidon on the Athens Acropolis aiming to win the patronship of the city. The two Gods agreed to each offer a gift before king Cecrops and the witnessing Athenians; the better gift would grant the deity the greatly desired patronship status.

Poseidon went first, striking the Acropolis Rock with his trident to produce the Sea of Erechtheus; a salt spring. As the myth goes, the Athenians weren’t particularly impressed with this gift, as the water wasn’t fit to drink. Poseidon then offered a second gift, a horse, to be used for war. When Athena’s turn came, she struck the ground with her spear and an olive tree sprouted from it swiftly; a magnificent gift to be used for nourishment, beauty and light in the dark. King Cecrops and the people of Athens favored the gift of the olive tree and declared Athena the patron deity of the city that inevitably took on her name.

According to myth, Poseidon was enraged by this and stormed to western Attica, where he flooded the Thriasian Plain. His rivalry with Athena, even though she is his niece, is legendary in Greek mythology. Homer’s Odyssey illustrates it heavily, telling the world of this fearsome uncle and his cunning niece who fight over the fate of Odysseus. The cunning Greek king and his loyal crew roamed the sea for years, going through infamous trials and tribulations as they made their way back home to Ithaca after the Trojan War. Although Poseidon tried to lead Odysseus to his demise, furious with him for blinding his beloved son, the Cyclops Polyphemus, Athena kept going against his will assisting Odysseus out of difficult situations, until he made it safely home back to his palace and faithful wife, Penelope.

The Athenians loved their patron Goddess like no other deity. During the Golden Age of Athens (460-430 BC), under the leadership of Pericles, they built the Parthenon atop the Acropolis hill, along with other glorious edifices; all of them famous through history in their own right as well: The Propylaea, The Erechtheion and The Temple of Athena Nike.

Famous architects Iktinos and Kallikrates took over the construction and the legendary sculptor Phidias was commissioned to create the colossal chryselephantine (gold and ivory) statue of Athena for the interior of the Parthenon, which was named Athena Parthenos (Athena The Virgin). Phidias also sculpted the gigantic bronze statue Athena Promachos (Athena standing in the front line in battle). This statue was placed between The Parthenon and The Propylaea.

The word Parthenon is derived from the word ‘parthenos’ which means ‘virgin’ as per the epithet ‘Virgin’ for Athena. Once in four years, the Panathinaia Festival took place in honor of the Goddess. Although it also involved athletic events similar to the Olympic Games, the main event was the religious procession that made its way from The Parthenon to the town of Elefsis via Iera Odos (The Sacred Way); today, Iera Odos survives as a busy motorway between Athens and the historical town of Elefsis (also spelled Eleusis in English). This historic town is also the very site of the infamous Eleusinian Mysteries of antiquity that to this day, historians know very little about.

The archeological site in Eleusis, the seaside town west of Athens that held the infamous Eleusinian Mysteries in ancient times.

Over the millennia, The Parthenon, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, has suffered devastation repeatedly and on a large scale. Other than being occupied by the Turks and turned into a mosque in the 1460s, it was also bombed by the Venetians in 1687, cruelly looted by Lord Elgin in 1806 and has even suffered substantial damage by overzealous Christian priests who destroyed the depictions on the friezes that seemed indecent in their eyes.

In order to graphically illustrate the Parthenon back in its glory days as well as its demise through the millennia, I’m including below a remarkable video by the Greek Ministry of Culture. I hope you’ll also enjoy therein, a classic poem by the legendary philhellene, Lord Byron. The great romantic poet’s imagination has captured the wrath of Athena (Minerva, in Roman) further to the merciless destruction of her sacred temple. For the benefit of poetry lovers, I’m including here a link to the whole poem, that was written in Athens in 1811 by the great British poet.

 

Note: This post was originally published on the fabulous blog of author and historian, Adam Haviaras. If you love Greek history, Greek travel articles, and historical fiction set in ancient Greece then you should really check out this author. Visit Adam’s blog here

 

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An insider’s view of Greek Easter

Easter in Greece is the brightest holiday, even more so than Christmas. The Greeks celebrate it with wonderful customs that make it a huge joy to attend the festivities. No matter where you are in Greece, the evening of Good Friday will find you following the epitaph procession with a lit brown candle in your hand, an experience that always makes my heart swell as the fragrance of jasmine and honeysuckle from the yards waft in the crisp night air, and the solemn melody of the hymn ‘Oh glyki mou aiar’ delights my ears. The epitaph is a wooden structure adorned with a multitude of flowers. A depiction of Christ lies inside and the epitaph serves as His tomb. Seeing that the procession symbolizes His funeral, the mood of this procession is mournful and voices are kept to a respectful low volume.

Midnight on Holy Saturday is the exact opposite experience. Here, the atmosphere is joyful, and how can it not be with the fireworks exploding overhead and the church bells ringing madly! The priest brings out the holy light (flown into the country from Virgin Mary’s tomb in Jerusalem the same day and distributed to every church on time), and people light up their white or red candles as they kiss and exchange the news of Jesus’ rising from the dead. One person will say ‘Christos Anesti’ (Christ has risen) and the other will respond ‘Alithos Anesti’ (indeed, He has) or ‘Alithos, o Kyrios’ (indeed, the Lord has).

On Easter day, the Greeks get up early to put the lamb and the kokoretsi on the spit. Lunch is a grand celebration that includes bumping together Easter eggs (traditionally dyed red).

Other than the above festivities that can be sampled anywhere in Greece, there are variations in places. For example, on the island of Hydra, the procession of the epitaph is not done on the road but in the sea by boat. Also, there are special customs in other parts, such as the spectacular ‘rocket war’ between two churches on the island of Chios and the burning of effigies of Judas in various parts of the country.

By far, and I am not just saying this because I am biased – everyone agrees here – the brightest Easter you can ever experience in Greece takes place in Corfu town.

The Holy Relic of St Spyridon is taken around town several times a year during the grand processions.

Other than the multitude of epitaph processions and spectacular fireworks display you’re in for here, Holy Saturday stands out for two things: the grand procession of St Spyridon, schools, boy scouts, and philarmonic orchestras that starts in the old town at 9:00 am, and the ancient custom of ‘botides’ that is a spectacle everyone should behold at least once in their lives.

Botides are massive ceramic pots that the Corfiots throw from high balconies when the bell tolls the ‘First Ressurection’ at 11:00 am before a huge crowd. What follows is a pandemonium of cheers and noise that is said to ward off evil and celebrates the victory of Man over death. The atmosphere soon becomes electric and you feel so elated, it almost feels like you’re ready to grow wings on your back and fly. You have to experience it firsthand, I guess, but that’s the best way I can describe the feeling! Here’s a little taste:

 

Here, I will also share Amleto (Little Hamlet, from Faccio’s opera) – my favorite piece of music played by the Old Philarmonic in Corfu town on Saturday morning during the grand procession I mentioned earlier. Total silence falls among the locals when the band begins to play this song as to enjoy it fully – this is a piece of music adored by the Corfiots, including me, as it has the unique power to compel and to make your heart swell. You be the judge – although again, you have to be there to experience the atmosphere to the max:

And below, a video taken at the square (Spianada) by Liston – Amleto starts at the time mark of 2:10

For the Greeks, Easter is a religious experience that goes on inside their souls. It is a chance to gather hope and strength inside and to keep going, no matter the hardship. It is one of the Greek secrets, if you like, for their ever renewed ability to withstand adversity and to keep the faith. During the Holy Week, the Greeks wish each other ‘Kali Anastasi’ (Happy Resurrection), which doesn’t only mean the enjoyment of the midnight festivities on Holy Saturday – it also means a resurrection in their lives; it wishes the preservation of hope until a better day comes. Therefore, as you appreciate, Easter to the average Greek is not just a cause for celebration but a form of psychotherapy too – a provider of renewed hope. I hope this makes sense. For what it’s worth, this is the best way I can share it with you, what Easter is to a Greek!

And with this, I bid you adieu, wishing you a wonderful Easter no matter where you are and how you plan to celebrate.

Please note: if you ever plan to visit Greece for Easter, do check online for the date of Orthodox Easter first. It coincides with Easter in the rest of the world only once in a few years!

 

And now, I am off to my kitchen to make Easter cookies. Holy week is a busy one for Greek housewives. Thankfully, I’ve already dyed the Easter eggs! I make mine with red onion leaves and curry to avoid those nasty chemicals. See how I prepare them here

Kali Anastasi & Happy Easter!

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A clean romantic suspense short read with an unreliable narrator that’ll keep you guessing! Vera is losing her mind over famous actor Yannnis Ksenos, except, she isn’t just a fan… Now, she plucks up the courage to ring his doorbell… Visit Amazon

 

For my delicious Greek recipes, go here. 
 
Planning to visit Greece? Check out my  FREE guide to south Corfu!

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