Author: Effrosyni Moschoudi

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The stunning Kipina Monastery in Tzoumerka, built inside a rockface

At the heart of Tzoumerka, Epirus, the traveler will come across the most enchanting sight. Kipina Monastery is literally cradled high up inside a rockface that has been carved masterfully to receive it in its snug embrace.

Although it is reminiscent of the famous Panagia Soumela Monastery in Pontos, Kipina Monastery is a lot less known, much smaller, and more humble.

The mountain landscape is ragged in places and forlorn, and the road to get there was rather treacherous, I thought. Maybe because I travelled up the winding mountain roads inside a large coach where masterful negotiations of hairpin turns were often required. We crossed narrow bridges with rusty old railings and, all the while, our wheels rolled near the edge of the precipice with the river Kalarritikos busily flowing below.

Still, when you arrive and you see this stunning view, you are instantly more than compensated…

The proper name of Kipina Monastery is “Monastery of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary.”

No one knows for sure when it was build, but according to one source it was build in 1212 by a bishop named Grigorios. According to a legend, it was build in that place because some monks at Viliza Monastery saw lights there in the darkness. When they got there, they found an ancient icon of Virgin Mary.

Plenty of icons of Virgin Mary have been found in many parts of Greece in inexplicable ways over time, even through visions and dreams that led someone to the place where Her icon was hidden. In every case, a monastery was then built in the place that the icon was found miraculously in order to house it there and to protect it from harm.

What harm, you may wonder?

For one, to keep them safe through the trecherous centuries of the brutal occupations that Greece has suffered over time, such as the one of the Ottoman Empire. The Turks loved to deface and to destroy religious artefacts. As for the Nazis that came later, they may have been respectful of the artefacts themselves, but they stole away from the Greeks, without shame, many of their treasures. Not just ancient artefacts, but religious ones, too, by the thousands.

Kipina Monastery flourished in the 18th century. It stopped being in operation sometime in the 19th century, and in 1931 it was put under the care of Tsouka Monastery, which uses its small grounds for cultivation.

To get to the monastery from the road, you take a beautiful cobble path, and at the end of it, just before entering the monastery, you cross a wooden bridge. There’s a sheer drop underneath, and it is actually a drawbridge that uses heavy chains. It is centuries old. It was installed to protect the monastery from the frequent raids of bands of thieves during the years of the Ottoman Occupation (1450s-1820s).

Using a lever, the monks would raise the bridge, sealing the entry to the monastery, thus making it impossible for the thieves to enter because of the sheer drop in between.

I am feeling so gutted I have been to this beautiful monastery and only managed to see a small part of it because of the bad timing… I was there on Christmas Eve, you see. On that special day, only the spaces on the entry level were open. Access to the upper two floors to see the church, the communal areas and the cells was not allowed.

I only hope to return one day to see all the spaces I missed as they are a rare sight. Being carved inside the rockface, they have the rock as a ceiling!!!

You can go to this image gallery on Mytzoumerka.gr to see photographs of the truly amazing interior. Enjoy!

At the entrance floor, we were welcomed by a local lady and her son who stood there displaying for sale a selection of works of art depicting religious figures. All the artefacts are made by art students and donated to the monastery so that the proceeds from the sales can finance its maintenance. That lady has the key to the monastery and is the one who opens it for the tourists daily, as it hasn’t had any resident monks for many years.

We were allowed to visit just one other small indoor space on that same level to light a candle. It was a cavernous space where an ancient, weathered icon stood on the rocky wall in the semi-darkness. A little further away, red ribbons hanging from side to side served as deterrents to the visitors so they may not venture any further as a vast cave system began there, apparently stretching for many miles below…

In times of war, the locals fled in these caves to hide from hostile armies, and in general, whenever persecuted…

As I stated earlier, the monastery is no longer in operation, and a local woman holds the key to give tours to the tourists at specific times. The monastery is open every day from 8:00 am till sundown. To find out when would be a convenient time for a tour, contact the monastery directly on this number: +30 26590 61186.

Perhaps, one of the best memories I’ve made from this visit that I am bound to treasure always is that amazing rainbow…

Leaving the monastery, we got back on the coach under a drizzle and when we descended to the level of the river, we crossed the small bridge and as we turned the first turn, through the trees, a rainbow came into view through our rain-drenched windows.

As we began to climb an opposite peak, the rainbow was visible fully, in all its magnificence. With the mountain where Kipina Monastery stood as a backdrop, it felt like a glorious goodbye from it, as well as a blessing from above. As I admired the heavenly sign, I felt ever so blessed and grateful, and emitted a silent thank you… hoping, one day, to return.

Go here to see my photos from Kipina Monastery.

 
 

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Greek Orthodox traditions and beliefs about the dead

The first ‘Psychosavato’ of the year was kept recently in churches all over Greece.

Psychosavato means ‘Soul Saturday’ and there are three in the Greek calendar each year. This is when the Greeks commemorate their dead.

I am sharing something extraordinary today – and I hope it will not chill your blood much 🙂

The Greeks are very serious about the spiritual world, especially when it comes to the deceased. As a result, they have a series of traditions that they dutifully honour. This is so they may ensure the rest of the souls of the departed in their family.

I guess some people don’t like to think about death, let alone to talk about it, but, being Greek, I am not one of them 🙂

Below, you will find information of various practices and customs that honor and aid the departed.

THE OFFERING OF KOLIVA

One of the most common practices is the offering of “koliva” (wheat berry memorial food) at the local church, to ensure the soul remains in peace and suitably “fed”.

The koliva is blessed at the church, where the priest mentions the deceased’s first name.

Many housewives make koliva at home, but I find that the ones that are bought are often tastier. I’ve offered koliva at the church many times, both for my mother and father’s souls, and I’ve always bought them. When you buy them, they come inside a deep bowl or a square tray.

 

In case you’re wondering, one does not simply walk into a supermarket or a bakery to buy koliva. This is something that only specific outlets prepare and are purchased by funeral parlors on behalf of the family of the deceased. The funeral services company will then deliver the koliva at the church in time for the mass, for the blessing to be made.

After the mass, you break up the sugary crust on the top and mix it all up to hand out the koliva in individual paper bags with plastic spoons. In memorial services this is also accompanied by a little sweet bun (tsourekaki).

“Koliva” (pronounced, ko-lee-va) is handed out to people at the church in the memory of a family member that has passed away. Traditionally, families offer koliva around the 9th day of the passing, then again around the 40th day, then once a year around the anniversary of the passing. The 3rd year anniversary is particularly important.

But there are other days in the year when families can offer koliva. One of these days is “Psychosavato” (Soul Saturday) which is not always the same date, seeing that it depends on the dates of Carnival and Easter.

There are 3 “Psychosavata” (Soul Saturdays) in any given year. The first one is in February, the second one is around Easter, and the third one is in June. Between the second and third Psychosavato, the Greeks believe that the souls stay on Earth, free to roam and to visit their loved ones. On the Psychosavato of June, when the koliva are referred to as “golden”, the souls are eager more than ever to hear their names at the church before “the gate closes” – i.e. when they leave the Earth plane to return to Heaven.

Now, about the koliva, one word of warning: If you’re offered some, take it only if you feel like eating it there and then. It doesn’t keep well, unless you put it in the fridge and eat it within 1 day tops. The wheat goes hard quickly out of the fridge, and then, it’s unedible. And please, whatever you do, do not throw it in the trash. Because it is blessed in the church for the dead, this is not recommended.

So, if you are stuck with more than you can eat, take it to your garden or anywhere in nature and throw it on the ground for the birds to have 🙂

When someone offers you koliva, you say “Theos horeston” if the deceased was a man, or “Theos horestin” if it was a woman. This basically means “May God forgive him” (or her). It is nice to spare a thought for the deceased when you eat the koliva, wishing for them to be forgiven for their sins and to be granted peace.

The basic ingredient of koliva is wheat berry (i.e. boiled wheat), which symbolizes the human body. It also contains almonds, walnuts, cinnamon, pomegranate, icing sugar, sugared almonds, raisins, and parsley. Oftentimes, the mix will have extra things like grated coconut or pine kernels.

No matter the mix, it always tastes sweet. For me, it is always a treat to be handed out some koliva, be it at church or at home by a neighbor. When I was a little girl in the 70s, I used to walk to school and back with my sister and we’d walk past a church. Oftentimes, we’d see old ladies dressed in black, standing outside the church and beckoning frantically to us to come over. We always ran eagerly to them as they’d offer us koliva on a napkin. A wonderful treat for us, every time!

If you are looking for a recipe to make koliva yourself, here is one by popular Greek chef, Akis Petretzikis.

THE TWO PAPERS

When you offer koliva at the church, you also hand two pieces of paper to the priest. One is for blessing all the deceased in the family and the other is for the health of those living. Only first names go on there. Surnames are not used.

So, even though you offer koliva for one person, in the papers you can request a blessing for a long list of souls and people. Family, friends, neighbours. Anyone really, that you care to bless. Including any people (or souls) who have no one else to do this for them 🙂

On the piece of paper where you put in the first names of the deceased you must draw a cross at the top.

You do not draw anything on the paper that contains the names of the living – you just write the words ‘YPER YGEIAS’ on top, which means ‘For health’. 

During the Psychosavato (Soul Saturday), the priest mentions the names privately during prayer before the mass begins, when the Holy Communion is being prepared. On the contrary, in the case of a Mnimosino (a memorial service), the names are read during mass before the congregation.

OFFERINGS OF BREAD, OLIVE OIL AND WINE FOR THE HOLY COMMUNION

It is customary to offer the priest a ‘prosforo’ (bread for the Holy Communion) and wine/olive oil as well when you request a ‘mnimosino’, where of course, you offer koliva as well. A ‘mnimosino’ is basically a memorial service that can be part of any Saturday or Sunday mass, where the name of the deceased is mentioned for the peace of their soul.

At the mnimosino, you offer all the above I mentioned earlier, and it is also customary to sit at the front pews before the altar where the koliva trays of various families are laid out on a table. You may choose to put a picture of the deceased by the koliva tray you are offering.

During the mnimosino, if you sit up front before the koliva trays, you will see people you know, and even strangers, approach to leave unburnt candles by the koliva trays. They do this to bless the dead. You use these candles by lighting them and placing them successively on the koliva. Once they burn a little, you put them out and throw them in the provided bin, then carry on with lighting the next ones people have left there, and so on, until they are all used during the service.

EFCHELEO – THE BLESSING AT THE GRAVE

At the cemetary here in my town, every afternoon, priests arrive to bless the dead at their graves upon the request of the relatives.

This blessing is called an ‘efchelaio’ which is a simple and short service for peace for the deceased soul. You do not have to book this in advance; it is requested and done on the spot. If my memory serves me well, the first efchelaio takes place on the 3rd day after the passing, then on the 9th day, and there are more milestones that I do not recall. On some of these milestones, it is necessary to pour koliva on the grave as it is believed that the dead require food to eat.

For the same reason, during Greek funerals, the priest will pour koliva and wine over the casket once it is put in the grave.

TAKE HEED IF THE DECEASED COME IN YOUR DREAMS…

The belief that the soul requires food and drink was solidified in me earlier last year, just before Easter. One night, I saw my father in my dream (he’d died the year before). In the dream, he was in his kitchen, cooking on the stove. All of a sudden, he turned to me and said: “Will you please take some bread and deep it in the sauce you made? I am hungry!” When I woke up, I gulped and felt my blood grow cold. There was something about the way he had said he was hungry. It had so much feeling in it! I had never seen a dream before where the dead would ask for something, and I panicked. I had not offered koliva at all for him since his 40-day post-death mnimosino the previous year and now I was kicking myself.

I had clearly overestimated my father’s blissful condition in Heaven. As churches do not perform mnimosino services during Easter, I had to wait about ten days and did it straight after. Phew! I had no more dreams from my father needing a thing ever since. And I was glad, because if one of your dead relatives needs something, they will surely come to your dreams to tell you about it! Take it from me. I have had more weird and meaningful dreams from dead relatives than I can count with the fingers of my two hands. I take them very seriously.

THE TOUR OF HEAVEN, HELL, AND THE ABYSS

According to Greek Orthodox tradition, the soul of the deceased does not migrate to Heaven at once. First, for a period of 3 days, it is allowed to roam free. During this time, the soul feels utterly blissful as it is suddenly free from the body and thus feeling super-powerful in a world of physical limitations. But then, an angel appears to give the soul a tour of the spiritual realm… I don’t remember the details in terms of timing, but here’s what I know:

First, the angel takes the soul to see Heaven, but the soul cannot interact with those inside it in this instance. It is more like peeking through a thick glass, where you cannot be heard or seen by those inside.

The soul is then shown Hell too, in the same manner, without interaction with those inside it. All they can do is observe. And, on the 9th day, the angel takes the soul to the Abyss, that is the bottomless pit, reserved for the most wicked.

As I write these words, I feel shivers coursing down my spine, because on the 9th day after my mother’s passing something freaky happened in my home.

A DVD fell out of the blue from my DVD shelf when no one was around. No windows were open that would explain a sudden gust of wind. I heard the sound and went to see and I freaked out. The DVD on the floor was the movie “The Abyss”! I believe it was a message from my mother, and it wasn’t the only one…

When my mother died, back in 2020, I slept in a couch in my parents’ house the first ten nights to keep my father company as he was a mess. The first night, I’d wake up every now and then hearing my father sobbing in his bed. In the morning, as I awoke, with my eyes still closed, I felt my mother’s presence. It was as if she were alive, leaning over me, and then I heard a whisper, clear as a bell. ‘Thank you for being here…’ 

I am not jesting. This really happened. So, how can you not believe, right?

I guess all this may sound weird to someone who doesn’t have my understanding. But, I am a Greek devoted Christian, who believes the spiritual world is real, so this ‘weirdness’, if you like, goes with the territory for me. And, believe me, compared to other people I know personally, who have seen visions of angels or saints, my Christian life is more ‘sane’ by comparison 😛 

Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, the soul is totally blissful during the first 3 days, while it is allowed to roam the Earth on its own. Then, an angel appears to give it a tour of Heaven, Hell, and then the Abyss (on the 9th day).

What happens after that is the scariest part.

The angel takes the soul and they begin their ascend to Heaven. But the Heavens in between are treacherous territory as they are guarded by legions of demons ready to snatch the soul away.

If you consider different levels of heavenly realms all the way up to Paradise and imagine them like a ladder with rungs, then at every rung on the way up, the soul and the angel will meet demons that are called “Teloneia” (a word that is identical to the Greek word for ‘customs office’. These are checkpoints of sorts where the soul is judged. Their good and bad deeds are put to the balance, each time, considering a different sin. Some of these sins are: witchcraft, blasphemy, sexual immorality, gluttony, divination, judgement, anger, jealousy, lying etc – basically anything that does not align with the will of God.

Every time the soul is found guilty of a sin the demons will claim the soul, but the angel will then counter the accusations by putting forth the good deeds that this person did in life. Thus, the demons become the accusers and the angel becomes the defense lawyer in this heavenly court situation of sorts. This happens again and again, as the soul ascends with the angel. There are 23 checkpoints in total, all the way to the Paradise Gate.

If, at any time, the soul is found guilty of sin and the angels do not have enough good deeds to counter the accusation, then the demons snatch the soul and take it to Hell.

Those who make it all the way to the top of the ladder get to enter Heaven.

Because of the risk of the soul getting taken to hell by the teloneia from the 9th day onward, the faithful among the Greeks may resort to praying (sometimes, fasting too) during this time. They do it in the hope that their prayers will be heard in Heaven, thus saving their loved one from a sad fate in Hell.

This is the reason why a wake (agrypneia, in Greek) used to take place in the old days, so the collective prayers could help determine the deceased’s fate for a happy outcome.

PRAYERS WITH A KOBOSKINI

The Greek Orthodox use the ‘koboskini’, a bracelet that traditionally has knots on it, to pray for the soul of the deceased. The word literally means ‘rope made of knots’.

The prayer you say is short and simple: ‘Kyrie Iisou Christe, Ie tou Theou, anapafse ton <FIRST NAME>

If it’s a woman, you say ‘tin’ instead of ‘ton’ before you say the first name of the deceased. This is just the Greek article that aligns with the gender of the name.

This simple but very powerful prayer means, ‘Lord Jesus Christ, Son of God, rest <FIRST NAME>

Each time you say this prayer, you hold another knot in succession between your thumb and index finger, and you keep going as you repeat the prayer, until you go all around the bracelet. You can do as many rounds as you can endure, the more the better, as it gets you in a higher mental place over time, which makes the prayer, due to your focus, more effective. If you have been fasting, again, you will be more effective spiritually.

It is believed that the souls come as you do this and grab hold of the koboskini, the way someone drowning at sea might grab a lifesaver. And, often times, as you pray, you will get the notion to pray for other souls too – those that find this opportunity while you are in this focused – and thus heightened – state of mind to connect with you spiritually so you might pray for them, too.

 

KEEPING A SHRINE AT HOME

Back in 2023, both my husband and I lost a parent. Andy’s mother passed away and then my father did, one and a half month later.

His father and my mother had already left us too, a few years earlier. So, now, we have a few memorial days to honor at home, if we consider lost grandparents too. I have thus created a permanent shrine in my study where I’ve hung many icons on the wall and put photos of our deceased parents and other family members, too. I light a vigil lamp on Sundays and on special days, and a little vase remains there at all times with fresh flowers from the garden. Occasionally, I also burn incense to clear the house from bad energy. I have shared about this in a different post, by the way. Find out here how to use insense (and sound) to clear the energy in your home.

TRADITIONS FOR THE DAY OF THE PASSING

When my father passed away, a friend was at the house. She had lost her father as a child and is very religious. Immediately, she rattled off a list for things for me to do, since my father had passed away at home. I had no idea, and felt thankful she could guide me! People may think that this sort of thing is just superstition, but I don’t think like that. And, at the end of the day, it doesn’t hurt to follow these ‘superstitions’, just in case. Right?

The things she guided me to do have three uses: They are good for the soul of the deceased, they inform the neighboorhood that someone has passed away, and also protect the other members of the family from any negative energy left in the house.

So, I followed her advice and did all the things she prompted me to do. They all provided comfort at a difficult time, somehow, so I do recommend them:

  • When the body is removed from the house (by the funeral parlor crew), you must take a plate and throw it at the threshold shortly after. The loud crashing noise is said to cause any lingering evil spirits to scatter, which protects the other people living in the home.

  • Only on the first night, all the external lights of the house must be left on.

  • At the gate or on the balcony, tie a black ribbon and leave it there throughout the first 40 days until the first ‘mnimosino’ takes place.

  • Prepare a shrine in the room where your loved one died and put these things on it: a picture of the deceased, an icon (Jesus or the Virgin Mary or a saint you feel close to you), a glass full of water, a vigil lamp (or you can buy a tall votive candle that burns for days), and a morsel of bread. If you like, you can add an angelic figurine or a vase with flowers, whatever you feel conveys a feeling of peace and harmony.

The shrine must be maintained in the room for 40 days.

Refill the water whenever the level goes down in the glass as the soul will be returning to this place from time to time and will be thirsty. Leave the bread there, throughout the 40 days. It will naturally mould, then crumble. Put any remains in the garden. Do not throw in the trash.

Keep the flame burning for as long as possible throughout this time. Every day, you must leave a window open in this room. My friend says the soul will take the form of a white butterfly and come in to drink.

My friend said she actually got to see one of them come in through her window and go drink from the glass she and her mother had left for her dad. She was so comforted by that, and believed this was indeed her dad that had taken this form to come in.

Call me naive, but I believe this too, as I have had white butterflies approach me everywhere, even on the beach, and, more often than not, on the days I was upset and needed comfort the most. And this only started happening after my mother passed away in 2020. As I said, my life can get pretty weird at times 😉

 

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The legend of the Bridge of Arta and a church with a tragic story

The haunting legend of the Bridge of Arta

During my Christmas journey to Epirus, I had the pleasure to visit the Bridge of Arta. Oddly enough, I had seen it dozens of times in my life, but only from afar and for a few seconds at a time, just passing through in the family car, as my father drove us to Corfu. Somehow, we never stopped to see it. I guess we were always too excited and eager to get to Igoumenitsa for the ferry crossing on time, LOL!

So, anyway, the time finally came for me to see the legendary bridge of Arta, and it was absolutely worth the wait.

The site is beautiful with a cafe and a local produce store on the side where our coach left us. Walking along the bridge offers picturesque views as the sound of rushing waters from the river Arachthos reaches the ears.

This magnificent stone bridge was built in the 1600s and typically carries the legend of sacrifice related to various stone bridges all over Epirus.

The folk poem is in old Greek and thus quite lyrical as it rolls out the tongue, but I’ll do my best not to ruin it in the translation to English. Here goes one small excerpt:

 

Forty-five masons and sixty apprentices

Were contstructing a bridge on the river of Arta

All day they built it, and at night it would collapse.

A little bird went and sat on the right of the arch

It didn’t tweet like a bird – it spoke as a human:

“Unless you sacrifice a person, the bridge won’t stay in place.

“Do not sacrifice an orphan, a foreigner or a passer by

“But the lead mason’s beautiful wife.”

 

(If you speak Greek, you can read the original in its entirety here.)

So, according to the legend, the lead mason sacrificed his wife, albeit reluctantly, and with a heavy heart. One of the masons tricked her into going on lower ground at the first arch saying her husband’s ring had fallen down there, and the woman offered to find it.

The workers began to build around her, and her husband layed a stone. Realising what was happening, the woman lamented her misfortune and cursed the bridge to fall, but her husband urged her to take the curse back, since she had a brother that might cross it and die.

Thus, the woman took back her curse and blessed the bridge to be strong like the mountains, so that if her brother crosses it he won’t be harmed.

As I stated earlier, there are legends of this kind all over Epirus, related to its masterful stone bridges, and they serve as a symbolism of the great sacrifice that it may take for a creator to make something magnificent.

And, more often than not, it is something very precious to him that has to be lost.

Even though human sacrifice probably never happened in Greece during construction of any kind, the Greeks, believe it or not, used to sacrifice roosters (or, less commonly, hens or lambs) in earlier times. I believe people still did this largely up until the 60s or so, when traditions were never questioned and were still followed religiously.

The owner of the house would kill a rooster, shedding its blood on the foundations, and leave its body there to ensure the house would stay erect. No kidding!

If you’d like to catch the vibe at the site of the bridge, with the sound of the river Arachthos flowing busily, here is this short video I took from ground level, and this one I took from the bridge. Enjoy!

On the east side of the river Arachthos, by the bridge of Arta, stands, to this day, a large plane tree. It is 350 years old, 10 meters tall, with a circumference of 13.45 meters. The locals call it, “The plane tree of Ali Pasha.”

According to legend, the vicious Otthoman ruler of Ioannina and the whole of Epirus used to sit under the shade of this tree looking with glee at the people he had executed by hanging on its branches.

Sadly, I have no picture of it, as I never ventured on the other side of the river where it would be, and our time there was limited.

But you can see it here.

There’s an old folk song that gives voice to the plane tree, with these words:

“What is it, Plane Tree, and you look so wilted, even though your roots are in the water?”

“Ali Pasha has been here…”

Arta has a tremendous and diverse history that goes back for thousands of years. The ancient town Amvrakia used to stand where Arta is today. Arta has been recorded through the ages by Romans, Venetians, and Otthomans, of course.

The town has many places of interest today, as you would expect, including a large Byzantine fortress that stands on level ground amidst modern houses and traffic.

Arta has many Byzantine churches, too. One of the most beautiful is dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. Its name, Panagia Parigoritissa, means “Virgin Mary, the Comforter.”

Here is a picture of the church, which I regret to say we never got to see on the inside. This wasn’t a programmed stop for our tour, and the place was closed at the time as it was Boxing Day.

We walked around the grounds from the street and saw from afar beautiful greenery and the 16 old monk cells our tour guide had mentioned, saying a monastery used to stand there in the past. You can see the old structure with the cells in line partly in the background.

Our tour guide also informed us of another legendary “sacrifice.” This one pertained to the construction of this church.

The church was built in 1285-1289 AC by Nikiforos I Komnenos Doukas and his wife Anna Palaiologina Katakouzinis.

The high dome is magnificent depicting the Pantrocrator (Christ). The dimensions of His image are huge, but because of the great height an optical illusion makes it seem normal in size.

Legend has it that the lead mason at this church had a very rigid idea about how he wanted to build it. But, as he was very popular, he had to leave the site at some point and go start work on another church. Before leaving, he gave precise instructions to one of the young masons about how he expected him to complete the building in his stead.

But, this mason had other ideas, and he didn’t hesitate to implement them, completing the church the way he wanted it.

When the lead mason returned to inspect the finished work, he was livid. It wasn’t just that the mason had ignored his instructions, but, as it turned out, the church was more beautiful the way this man had made it.

Consumed by both rage and envy, he led the man to the roof on the false pretense that he wanted to point out a weakness in the construction. Urging him to inch closer and inspect a spot near the edge, he pushed him.

The man got hold of the lead mason as he lost his balance, and they both fell to the ground and to their deaths. Legend has it that their bodies were left there and, in time, turned into stone. Today, two reddish boulders lay on the ground on the back of the church…

According to the same legend, after the young mason’s death, the Virgin Mary appeared before his mother to comfort her, and this was why the church was named, “Virgin Mary, the Comforter.”

Here is a short video on Youtube, just 1 minute long, so you can take a look at the grounds of the church and the truly stunning Byzantine architecture on the inside.

During this wonderful excursion, we stayed in a fabulous hotel just out of Arta, called “Byzantino.” It was true to its name with beautiful decorations of Byzantine motifs and luxurious spaces that would truly make an emperor feel right at home! 😀

GO HERE to see my pictures of the hotel, the church and the bridge.

 

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The joy of traveling and sunny Calamos

You know me… I cannot commit to staying at home too long. My heart always yearns for the next escape. I have always been an eager traveler, but in the recent years, I have been deprived of this great passion of mine.

Family health issues, first with my beloved Corfiot grandmother, then both my parents, who got ill with cancer in succession, forced me into assuming the role of carer that didn’t allow me to have almost any travel experiences at all for about 7 years.

Sadly, all the aforementioned members of my family are now gone. It’s tough to be left behind with all the memories, good and bad, and I am sure many of you can relate, but I continue to count my blessings every day as I have a lot to be thankful for – a husband who is loyal, funny, and who supports me on my writing journey, for one. And he is a fellow keen traveler to boot!

It’s been a busy year travelwise, which had the added benefit of allowing me to escape from the harrowing memories of the past few years and my own sense of mourning.

Traveling opens the horizons of the mind. It unravels and refreshes it and lifts the soul. If you are mourning whatever in your life, I highly recommend traveling to you as an escape, if you can do it. Even one-day escapes or extended time spent in nature often, especially in the company of other people, can have the same effect.

Andy and I had a wonderful 4-day coach tour to Epirus last Christmas. In the photo above, you can see some of the stunning places we visited. We stayed in Arta, that is well known for its legendary stone bridge. It’s pictured on the bottom right in the picture above, and you can read all about it here.

Each day, we went to a different place. We were enthralled to visit Tzoumerka for the first time, a mountain area near Arta very reminiscent of Zagori, as one will find there stone bridges and enchanting villages with beautiful stonemasonry.

We also dedicated a day to explore Ioannina, a stunning city built on a lake, that has a lot of history, mainly from the Otthoman Empire.

Last, we visited Messolonghi and the absolutely breathtaking Nafpaktos. The latter made our heads spin with its quaint beauty. The old fort on the tiny port made our cameras sing. I am going to have a hard time picking which pictures to show you from that place. They are all postcard-perfect!

Before I go, I’ll change the scenery completely for you! I am not going to leave you without some sunshine today. Nuh-uh!  There’s a few months left till it’s summer so I thought some sunny pictures would be very apt right now, to keep our hearts warm. Keep on reading!

 

A weekend at Calamos in north Attica

Since it’s so grey and cold out there right now, I hope these sunny photographs serve to brighten your day. They certainly did that for me.

Andy and I spent a weekend (2 nights) last September in a family hotel called Calamos Beach Resort.

It is situated in the area of Calamos in north Attica, across from the island of Evia (Euboia), 2.5 kms out of the town of Agioi Apostoloi.

We had all-inclusive bracelets, so all meals and drinks were paid for (we had to exercise all of our restraint LOL). We had everything we needed on the grounds for a fun weekend, but we did venture to the town to have a walk around, too.

Agioi Apostoloi has a lovely marina, very reminiscent of our town of Nea Peramos, what with the fishermen fixing their nets and chatting, and the local cats waiting to be fed. There were many inviting eateries and cafes on the seafront that seemed to be popular. We didn’t need to visit one of them, since the hotel provided everything we needed, but it’s lovely to know they are there in case we ever return to stay in town somewhere.

We came across 2 cinemas (always a plus when I visit towns as we are both film enthusiasts) and on the road that leads out of town, at a short distance away, there is a stunning church that I’d love to explore on the inside, perhaps during my next visit.

Back at the hotel, we had the most relaxing time, just lying under the trees or a beach umbrella for hours every day. The beach was perfect for me as I love pebbles – the sound waves make when they scrape pebbles is my favourite beach sound. I couldn’t get enough of it. As for the waters they were incredibly clear. Swimming there was amazing, reminding me of the perfect sparkling waters of my beloved island of Corfu.

The sea bed was uneven, mind you, with large pebbles, making it a little hard to get in and out of the water. I would recommend to use flippers or other suitable swimming footwear to swim in this place. The store in the hotel sells plastic swimming footwear in case anyone needs them.

They think of everything at this shop. It had great merchandise. We bought a box of playing cards to play by the pool in the evening. Doing that in the cool night air while people-watching proved to be more fun than watching TV all by ourselves in the room!

In the evening, we also took long quiet walks on the seafront along a wide cemented road with sparse traffic. The area seemed to be touristy in previous decades but no more. We saw various establishments that seemed deserted.

We didn’t walk too far after dark, though, as it can get pretty quiet there. And, for a short stretch near the hotel, there are no streetlights.

The view to the opposite shores of Evia (Euboia) in the dark was enchanting. In the areas where there are air turbines on the mountains–like in Aliveri–lights came on in the dark that blinked delightfully like little stars. It was all very pleasing to gaze at in the semidarkness.

If you’re interested in booking this hotel, you can find it here at Booking.com.

If you’re driving to the resort, you may benefit from these instructions:

To get to the resort, you take the Athens-Lamia highway and turn off at Kapandriti (after Afidnes). The route takes you via the centre of Kapandriti and continues to Calamos along a quiet country road. At Calamos there is a sign post to Agioi Apostoloi, where you take a right turn to follow a road at high altitude with panoramic coastal views.

Very important: Once in Agioi Apostoloi, make sure to drive all the way to the marina. Turn right there and immediately right again, at the first turn into a narrow road. The way is straight after that, and you will see the hotel on the left side of the road after a couple minutes’ drive.

We made the mistake of relying on Google maps and turned off the main road BEFORE reaching the marina. As a result, we found the hotel after a maze-like detour via narrow dirt roads in the backstreets of the town. Stupid Google maps! LOL!

I’ll know for next time. And I am saying this because I am definitely going back. Andy loved it there too, and we reminisce about it all the time.

I think the reason Andy and I loved this place so much is because it made us feel so relaxed…  As all our meals were included we didn’t have to venture anywhere outside looking for sustenance or even to think about what to order.

This hotel offered us a chance to unwind, and it was somewhat like us reverting to our childhood in a way… No worries at all, no schedule, no to do lists, nowhere we needed to be, no need for a watch. We just ate when we got hungry, swam, and slept all day!

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Urginea, the lucky plant for the New Year and other Greek traditions

Image credit to Festivalaki Cretan festival of Arts & Culture

Hi All! Thrilled to share today the Greek tradition of the lucky plant for the New Year! I’ll also share my recipe for Vasilopita, the cake with the hidden coin inside that Greek families traditionally cut together on New Year’s Eve.

The big day is approaching and, soon, the Greeks will be looking to buy an unedible little plant that looks very much like an onion but is not. You’ll find it in the stores here only once a year, folks. Do you know what they are for? Fret not, for I am about to tell you 🙂

These special plants to the Greeks decorate people’s front doors for good luck every year, and are put in place in time for New Year’s Day.

My parents have always referred to this plant simply as ‘riza’, which is just the Greek word for ‘root’. My father described it as some kind of wild onion, because of the shape of the root. Years later, when I looked up this plant online, I realised my father’s description was bang on!

As my Internet search revealed, the plant has many names: Agriokremmydo (wild onion), Skylokremmydo, Skylla, Askeletoura, Boska, and Agiovasilitsa. The latter refers to Agios Vasilis, the Greek Santa Claus, and that makes sense as the plant is used in the New Year, when Agios Vasilis makes His visit to the children, according to Greek custom.

The Latin name of the plant is Urginea. Apparently, it is the plant of Pan (the pagan god of nature in ancient Greece). It was believed to offer fertility, good luck, and good fortune.

The custom of hanging these roots outside homes in the new year is largely followed on the island of Crete. It seems to be followed in Athens too, though not by many. In general, I don’t see them outside people’s houses that often these days any more.

Anyway, my family never had to buy one, since urginea grows all over the open fields here every winter, and even on our local beaches, as you can see in this picture.

Close to New Year’s Eve, even at the age of 80, my late father would go up the road to the first open field and dig up two of these plants, taking great care to remove the root whole and intact. He’d then hand over one plant to my husband and me, the onion-like root covered in aluminium foil. All I had to do then was to tie a piece of string around its stem and my lucky plant was ready to hang at the gate.

Whatever your customs or personal family traditions are for New Year’s Eve in your part of he world, have lots of fun, and a happy and peaceful 2025! 

Here’s another Greek tradition – Vassilopita – the New Year’s Eve cake with the hidden coin inside. Learn all about it here and get my family recipe!

Can you say ‘Melomakarona’? Or even know what it is?
Check out the traditional Greek Christmas desserts here, and a fun cookie recipe that the kids will love to bake! Enjoy!

 

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Greek Christmas cheer in Athens and sunny photos from Loutraki

Once again, I am pleased to share photos from my Greek travels with you. This time, I am picking some from our visit to Loutraki last fall, during the day of our cruise along the Corinth canal. 

Loutraki made us very envious that day, seeing that the weather forecast had warned of high winds and chilly weather, but instead, we found ourselves in a scorching summer paradise that made us sorry we never packed our swimsuits!

So, we watched others bathe in the clear waters of the Corinthian Gulf, and the views were so alluring we wanted to cry (haha). But the real sorry sight was that of the Katarraktes Cafe, or rather, what was left of it…

We headed there, eager to sit for a coffee in the shade with the pleasing sound of rushing waters in our ears, but sadly, we found it forlorn and derelict. The beautiful wood we recalled from last time was all burnt, and the big pool where the fountains used to be was now empty and decaying.

The many waterfalls that were once cascading over the mountain side were all gone and our hearts wept. I have no idea what happened to this place, and we didn’t know about the fire.

Such a sorry sight. I am only sharing it to save you the needless walk that we had there, as it is situated at a fair distance out of town. We walked there in the scorching heat after our lunch only to return straight back into town to find another place to sit in the shade.

We had lunch at a family taverna called Plaza on the beach. It was an excellent choice as the food was delicious, the staff courteous and the prices more than fair. There is a hotel with the same name at the same building.

The cafe we went to, however, was a poor choice, so I won’t name it. It was hugely expensive, with not enough value to even justify the high prices. They also allowed smoking, so we had our coffees and desserts in a white toxic haze from the smokers and I tried not to cough, LOL

There are plenty of other cafes for us to choose next time in this cosmopolitan, marvellous town, thank goodness.

 

Loutraki is a highly recommended destination for a short or long break, with plenty of hotels and eateries, but more importantly it is a town of natural spas, and they’re well worth a visit.

If you have a car you could take a day to visit the idyllic Lake Vouliagmeni (we swam there during an earlier visit, it was so serene) and, a little further away, the Lighthouse at Cape Melagavi with its marvellous views of the Corinthian Bay.

On a lower ground, and within walking distance from the lighthouse, you can visit a tiny bay for a dip in the sea, right next to the ruins of an ancient temple to Goddess Hera! We went there a few years back and I hope to return to it again some other time.

It certainly is worth the drive, about half hour from the centre of Loutraki, maximum 45 minutes or so, if my memory serves me well. Highly recommended to get to the peak where the lighthouse is, especially near sunset. It is a short and easy ascend on foot from where you will park, but do wear flat, comfortable shoes!

 

SEE THE PHOTOS

 

Fun things to do in Athens during the holiday season (some, all year round, actually😉

Two years ago, my husband Andy and I enjoyed a weekend in Athens marveling at the Christmas lights, especially at Psyrri. Christmas shopping in Ermou Street was fun, followed by lunch at our favorite Irish pub at Monastiraki.

We also had a full day at the SNFCC Foundation, a true gem of Athens, especially for the holiday season. It’s all packed in one post for your perusal. If you’re visiting the city of Athens for Christmas on any given year, it has all the details you need so you can sample too all the thrilling experiences that I did.

Either way, it will make you dream or reminisce. Enjoy!

SEE THE POST

Note: If you are in Athens this Christmas, here’s a tip: Other than the usual decorations at Psyrri and the Christmas tree at Syntagma square, I advise you to also check out the Christmas Village (market) at Pedio Areos on Alexandras Avenue (closest Metro station is Victoria). On New Year’s Eve this year, there won’t be just the one free-admission music concert, which typically takes place at Syntagma Square, but two! The second one will take place at Pedio Areos, featuring the popular band, Melisses. I hear they are doing a different free music concert over there every night on the run up to New Year’s Eve. The concert at Syntagma on New Year’s Eve will feature various artists, like Delivorias and Bofiliou. Will you go for that one or the one with Melisses? Either way, you’ll be guaranteed a jolly good time. Enjoy!

 
 
 

The future of online shopping is here!

Have you visited the Amazon Beyond Virtual Store yet? It is, simply put, the future of online shopping!

Amazon’s virtual store has been decked beautifully for the holidays, and it is filled with interactive content for your holiday shopping.

And, there is access to a virtual toy store too, so you can get marvelous gift ideas for the kids.

Go check it out and have fun exploring! 🎄🥳

Note: available only on Amazon US)

 

VISIT AMAZON BEYOND!

 
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10 reasons why reading is good for you. Plus, exciting bookworm gift ideas!

Oh, we love our reading, don’t we. And in today’s stressful, chaotic world that seems to spin, roll and stretch at an overbearing speed, nothing grounds us and helps us escape better and faster than a bit of reading enjoyed in a quiet place.

Reading is the best way to unplug from ‘the matrix’ and to delve into a different world of choice, a place where we can assume a new identity and escape… pretend… learn… enjoy.

But, the joy of reading isn’t the only benefit we get out of our favorite pastime. No, sir! There’s so much more!

I recently stumbled upon an article that outlined several benefits that bookworms enjoy and don’t even realise. This intrigued me,  enough for me to do a little more online searching. Soon, I was owed!

Did you know?

The deeper we delve into a fiction story, taking on the personality of the protagonist, the more areas of the brain start to light up, activating! These are areas that respond to movement, sensation and pain. What’s more, they remain active for days after we’ve finished the book as we think back on the story!

Reading also allows us to recall information more easily. It keeps neural pathways healthy so we can avoid cognitive decline as we age.

Reading also makes us happy, releasing the feel-good hormone dopamine in the brain. The anticipation itself for our next reading session releases the dopamine too!

No wonder we’re forever returning to bed or the sofa with a book!

TEN GOOD REASONS TO KEEP ON READING!

  1. Improves and strengthens memory

  2. Expands our knowledge.

  3. Reduces stress.

  4. Improves communication skills.

  5. Improves mental health.

  6. Enhances creativity and imagination.

  7. Improves vocabulary

  8. Improves concentration and focus

  9. Entertains us

  10. Releases dopamine in the brain, the happy hormone!

So, there you go, fellow bookworms! It seems we have been doing it right all along, swapping the TV for the books, and that makes us a special kind of people!

So, give yourself a pat on the back, but don’t go just yet!

These gifts ideas for book lovers are exciting and irresistible! See what you think:

Personalized hand-embroidered corner bookmark, 26 letters, 4 seasons to choose from

Visit Amazon US  UK

Library bookshelf coffee mug with “Just One More Chapter” key chain

Visit Amazon US  UK

Funny bookish socks

Visit Amazon US   UK   (the item in the UK store is similar)

“So Many Books So Little Time” book charm bracelet

Visit Amazon US  UK

Book blanket, a valuable reading companion. High-quality fibers for ultimate warmth and comfort

Visit Amazon US  UK   (the item in the UK store is similar)

USB rechargeable LED book light For reading in bed, various colors, brightness dimmable

Visit Amazon US  UK

11-pieces bookworm gift boxset including insulated tumbler, tote bag, makeup bag, socks, keychain, bookmark, flipper

Visit Amazon US  UK  (the item in the UK store is similar)

DIY garden house bookshelf – 3d puzzle book nook Kit for adults

Visit Amazon US  UK

 

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A stunning fresco at Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and the Corinth Canal

Today, I am pleased to share my photographs from the Isthmia Museum and Archeological site. The latter boasts the Roman Baths with the largest monochrome fresco in the eastern Mediterranean! And it is STUNNING, adorned with a variety of sea creatures (octopus, fish, lobster, squid, dolphin, sea snake) and mythological marine creatures too, including what looks like a Nereid and a Triton.

We happened to visit on the day that the ancient games of Isthmia were revived in the area for the first time, and we spotted in the museum two locals preparing the pine tree wreaths for the winners.

We left the place before the games began, so we didn’t see any sporting action.  But after seeing that breathtaking fresco, and with the cruise of the Corinth Canal as our next stop that day, we didn’t feel like hanging around LOL!

The museum was tiny but very interesting, with a plethora of artifacts in great condition that helped to imagine the everyday life of my ancient ancestors.

The archaeological grounds were mere ruins, nothing standing except for the Roman baths. We had to imagine the Temple of Poseidon, the stadium, and the other buildings we got to see only on signs, but the pine trees were ample – holy trees to Poseidon, apparently!

When I heard that from our guide, I wondered if this is why there are so many pine trees on Greek beaches. Or, maybe, it’s the other way around. The Greeks imagined Poseidon liked them seeing that they are often found so close to seawater. I guess we’ll never know, LOL!

The archaeological site is set on a hill that overlooks the bay. It is a short drive away from Isthmia where the Corinth Canal begins.

In my recent newsletter and blog post about my cruise through the Corinth Canal, I mentioned that the ancient Greeks had conceived the idea of the canal so the ships did not have to circumnavigate the Peloponnese to go to the other side of mainland Greece. However, their plans never turned into action as when they asked Zeus for permission to go ahead (via the high priestess and Oracle Pythia of Delphi), his reply was negative.

Still, that didn’t stop the Corinth tyrant Periander in the 7th century BC. He did try to dig for a canal but found the task far more demanding and expensive than he’d thought. So, he constructed a ‘diolkos’ instead, i.e. a passageway from one shore to the other that involved dragging the boats across the land on porous blocks.

Later, the Romans tried too. During the reign of Tiberius, another failed attempt was made in 32 AD but their equipment and know-how proved inadequate for this feat. They, too, settled for another solution, similar to the Greek ‘diolkos. The Romans went for an Egyptian mechanism that had been used previously to roll huge blocks of granite to build their pyramids. The boats rolled across the Isthmus upon tree trunks.

In 67 AD, philhellene Roman Emperor Nero ordered six thousand slaves to dig a canal with shovels. Most of them were Jewish pirates during the Jewish wars. Nero was so keen on the project he was the one to give the first blow to the land of the Isthmus with a golden pickaxe.

Sadly, he passed away the next year and the project was soon abandoned.

Today, a relief adorns the wall of the canal near Isthmia. It is on the side of the mainland, not the Peloponnese, i.e. on the right side as you begin the boat cruise from the Saronic Gulf (Isthmia) side. You will see it high up on the canal wall right next to an old stone base to a bridge over the canal that no longer exists.

It is a mystery as to who created this relief of Nero and when, but it is said to be a remnant from a temple built there in his honor.

It is sad it has been left to its fate as it continues to fight a losing battle with the elements, but here it is, a quickly fading image of the man who had the dream of the canal and went the furthest along than any other.

He was the most determined to do it, and he followed through, in a world that didn’t yet have the mechanical and technological marvels of today.

 

To hear more about the Corinth Canal, for fun facts, and to see photos, see this blog post.

 
 

All this talking about emperors made me think of the purpura mollusk and I have to tell you why!

This mollusk is an exquisite meze for Greeks in the know. It also carries an ancient secret related to royalty!

Porpura  derives its name from ‘porphura’, the dated Greek word for ‘purple’ (pronounced ‘porfeera’). This is the Greek name for this mollusk. In ancient times, they were used to extract the color purple, which was then used to dye the clothes of kings and emperors. The practice is 3,000 years old.

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A Corinth Canal cruise and Corfiot Pastitsada

 

A cruise along the Corinth Canal

Today, I am thrilled to share about my day at Isthmia, cruising along the Corinth Canal! 

First, we had coffee at the Isthmia Bridge Cafe, on the side of the Peloponnese, where we got to see the small bridge submerge in the sea and resurface a few times, allowing people and cars to pass from the Peloponnese to the mainland and back. We even got to see our booked pleasure boat, Anna II, pass by, before boarding it. We got so excited! 

Here is a short video my husband took at the cafe, just as our boat appeared to cruise past us. 

Just as we were about to board, a large number of jet skis floated and revved past en masse to get into the canal. I’d never seen so many together before – It was such a treat! 

The cruise was amazing. The canal is so beautiful. See this short video for a small taste!

 

During the cruise, I recalled a story one of my Corfiot aunts told me the last time I saw her. It was a miraculous incident that took place in the canal. Here’s what happened:

Many decades ago, when my elderly aunt was a young married woman, she found a lump in her breast one day. As soon as they could make it, she and my uncle boarded a boat from Corfu town to visit a hospital in Athens. 

As they were traveling through the Corinth Canal, she and my uncle were lying on their backs on the deck in the sunshine. Auntie had her eyes closed, listening to a man relay an anecdote from the days when the canal was being constructed.

The man was saying that the cook on site caught a snake one day. He prepared half of it fried and half of it boiled. The workers who ate the fried snake all died, but those who ate it boiled were not harmed. Just as the man was finishing the story, my aunt heard a man ask her, ‘Where are you going?’ She opened her eyes and saw a monk towering over her. She told him she was going to Athens to see a doctor.

To her surprise, the monk then lunged forward and grabbed her by the chest, real tight. She began to shout, protesting, as anyone might expect. Suddenly, she opened her eyes and realized the monk had simply vanished. Turning to her husband, she asked about the monk. He hadn’t seen him. And now, it all seemed like a terrible dream. Or was it? It had felt so real!

When they got to the hospital and the doctor examined her, she was astounded to hear the lump was no longer there!

Later, she realized the monk she’d seen on the boat had to have been Saint Spyridon, as he is portrayed as a monk in all the icons, and he has been seen in the same form in many recorded miracles where he appeared before people in visions. Being the patron saint of Corfu, she had always prayed to him and kept him close in her life.

And she’s not the only member of my Corfiot family who have told me stories of St Spyridon’s miracles they witnessed firsthand either! My granny was another. Actually, I have put her own personal story in this post, a story from WWII, no less, along with a load of info on St Spyridon and his famous miracles.

Coming out on the other side of the canal, we were enthralled to see the beautiful views of the spa town of Loutraki and the Corinthian Gulf. After a short cruise around the gulf, while waiting for the go ahead to go back into the canal, we returned to our initial point of departure, on the Saronic Gulf side. 

On our return journey along the canal, we noticed this part where new works were made in the recent years, when part of the canal wall began to crumble, causing it to close a couple times because it wasn’t safe. If I recall, it happened after a couple of earthquakes that affected this area. As the workers seem to have dug so low to the water surface, building this really wide road from the top to carry away the debris, the chance of rocks falling on the canal again at this part is no longer a possibility.

A little further down, we were astounded to see a massive ‘ZAXARIAS’ (i.e. Zachariah) carved on the rock. It was HUGE! We all wondered about it! Soon, we found out it was one of the workers of the canal who had done this, back in the days of its construction. He wanted to carve his own name for posterity, but he wasn’t anywhere near as humble as all the others who had done the same. We saw many names carved in the canal rockface as we went through it, including some sounding very Italian.

But this Zachariah dude certainly overdid it, and as we heard, he got a huge fine for his huge audacity haha! If you do this cruise and want to check it out, it’s on the Peloponnese side, i.e. the right side when you return to Isthmia.

Another thing to look out for as you travel through the canal is this:

On the outward journey, if you sit at the right side, near the beginning of the cruise, you may notice high up on the rockface a figure protected behind a wooden frame. It is a Nero relief that is part of an ancient temple dedicated to him. Where this is situated, you will see two square cemented bases on both banks that used to support an old bridge that is no longer there. The Nero relief is high above the base on the right side.

And now, some trivia for you:

The Corinth Canal is 8 meters deep, 21 meters wide, 80 meters high, and 6.4 kms long. It took about 1.5 hour to cruise through it and back on the boat.

Work on the canal began in 1882 and it opened in 1893. It unites the Corinthian to the Saronic Gulf, and it separates the Peloponnese from mainland Greece – essentially making the former an island!

The ancient Greeks were the first to conceive the idea of a canal there and were keen on constructing it, but Pythia forbid it when they asked the gods for advice on it. 

Zeus told them through Pythia that he wasn’t in agreement – he said plain and simple that if he’d meant for the Peloponnese to be an island he would have made it one himself!

Well, I wonder what he’s thinking right now if he’s still around, LOL!

Guess how much it costs for a big ship to go through the canal? We were told the entrance fee is 5,000 euro! And guess what? The canal company employs its own captains, who are pefectly trained to navigate ships through the canal. Every shipping company has a choice to make! If they want to be covered by insurance as they go through the strait, they have to allow one of the canal’s captains to take the wheel. 

If the shipping company opts out of this, whatever damage occurs will not be compensated. I hope they all say yes! I’d hate for any damage to a ship or this beautiful canal!

In case you’re wondering, the company that does the cruise is Corinth Canal Cruises. They also go to the islands of Aegina and Agkistri!

The boats board at Isthmia. The ticket for a cruise through the canal and back is 28 euro per person. For further details and to confirm the price, please visit the website of Corinth Canal Cruises. 

I loved Isthmia so much I am bound to return next summer. It’s not just the idyllic setting at Isthmia Bridge Cafe, but the beach that is situated a short distance away looked just as amazing as I viewed it from the boat. I may even be tempted to do the cruise again. I highly recommend Isthmia for a visit!

In a later post, I will share about the other places my husband and I visited that day. We made our first stop at the Isthmia museum and archeological site. I fell in love with the marvelous fresco at the Roman Baths that is full of intricate designs of marine creatures, and I can’t wait to show it to you!

We also visited Loutraki for lunch and coffee. It was a 4-hour stay where we walked a lot, sat in the shade, and enjoyed generous sea views. All the while, we really kicked ourselves for not having brought our swimsuits. It was a marvellous sunny day, scorching hot, and people were swimming, even though it was mid-October!

Visit Facebook to check out my pictures from the Corinth Canal cruise and Isthmia Bridge Cafe.

Corfiot pastitsada – my easy, and just as yummy version!

Today, I am pleased to share my recipe for Corfu’s iconic dish of Pastitsada, i.e. beef and pasta in a rich tomato sauce. 

My Corfiot granny, Antigoni, always made this meal with tomato paste from a tin, but passata (tomato puree) is a personal preference of mine. Both options work and the food tastes the same.

Sometimes, Granny also used number 2 pasta (thick, with a hole), but I find it very messy on the table. Let’s just say it’s a surefire way to get sauce on your clothes 😛 Spaghetti is way easier to eat lathered in tomato sauce!

GO HERE TO GET THE RECIPE

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Did you enjoy this post? Here’s another from the area of the Isthmus: 

A stunning fresco at the Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and a mollusc with a royal secret

 

 

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FREE books, Greek stuffed veg, and Nicholas Cage in town!

Good morning, All! Today, I’ve got awesome news! Sunny photos from my summer vacation, my family recipe for Gemista and…. wait for it… a picture of Nicholas Cage in my neck of the woods! Yes, folks, it’s true! The Hollywood actor was staying near my town of Nea Peramos all summer, filming his new movie up in the local mountains! Scroll near the bottom to find out more!

Summer’s almost over. Well, almost.

My husband took this photo of me on the beautiful beach of Lychna on the island of Limnos. This was where we spent our annual break this August.

I posted a bunch of my photographs from that vacation on Facebook earlier this week. Go check them out HERE, and fill your day with sunshine!

This summer refuses to go, folks, and I am glad, because the sea is still warm enough to swim in. It’s almost mid-October, and it’s just incredible. We just had a couple days with wind and thunderstorms, but the temps are heating up again. Whoahey.

This year, I spotted a massive sea turtle as I swam at my local beach. To ensure my eyes hadn’t fooled me I asked other people about it. Many said they’d seen it too on other occasions, and one old man claimed it has been here for many years. There is just one, he said, confirming it is indeed massive in size.

I saw it from a good distance one day, its big head emerging through the water, then it began to look around, reminding me of the periscope of a submarine haha. Its head seemed huge, even from this long distance. I was glad it was far away, I tell you.

I was shocked. But not as shocked as I was another morning when I looked down under me in the deep and I saw it looking up back at me. YIKES. It was sooo big. I am not ashamed to say I panicked and swam away as fast as my flippers could carry me LOL.

An old lady told me that the sea turtle broke the surface of the water as she swam with her son one day. She saw it from up close, and it was staring back at her with ‘big round eyes’. Said it had ‘greenish scales’ and it took all she had not to freak out as she asked her son calmly to move toward her slowly, since he had his back to it and hadn’t seen it. But, as soon as she spoke, the sea turtle panicked too, apparently, because it then retreated and swam away. I guess it’s not as dangerous as I thought, LOL!

 
 

My name day, Effrosyni Day, was on September 25, and my husband Andy and I celebrated it with a lovely meal on the seafront of our town. We ordered a seafood platter, as you can see here, which was delicious, as well as baked vegetables drizzled with balsamic. It was all amazing.

But nowhere near as amazing as what I discovered that same week! See if you can recognise this guy on the right… Believe it or not, he was photographed in my neck of the woods this summer!

WHAAAAAT?

As you can see here, folks, this is no ordinary tourist, but Hollywood superstar, Nicholas Cage!

I found this photo on the website of my nearby seaside town of Agioi Theodoroi! Apparently, Nicholas Cage has been renting a villa there all summer, and often visited the eateries in town with his wife during his long stay. A local beach bar, as you can see here, was where he was captured on camera. (note: credit for the photo goes wherever it is due).

But that is not all, folks!

A little digging online yielded for me another shock! It turns out that Nicholas Cage has been driving to my town in the wee hours of the morning daily, going to a remote area on the mountains, to shoot a movie!

 

Kryftes, an ancient hideout on my local mountain range, becomes a Hollywood film set!

This image is from the Greek channel ‘Skai’ which ran a story on Nicholas Cage’s upcoming movie. It is set on the majestic Geraneia Mountains that crown both my town and Megara and reach over all the way to Loutraki.

The area of ‘Kryftes’ on these mountains, a word that means ‘hidden’, used to be the perfect hideout for the people of Megara for centuries. Whenever they expected a raid, they would go there as it was invisible from all the routes, all around.

This is the place that the location scouts chose for the movie, ‘The Carpenter’s Son’, which is based on the apocryphal gospel of Thomas. It tells the story of Jesus as a child. Nicholas Cage plays Jesus’s father, Joseph.

Last spring, the location scouts contacted the council of Megara and asked for assistance to provide better access by road so that they could commence building the sets, and then start filming at Kryftes. The council was happy to oblige and agreed to keep the whole operation strictly confidential.

Indeed, everyone kept mom about it, and no one discovered this among the common people like me until after the cast and crew were all gone! I was soooo miffed when I found out, but of course it is all understandable. I mean, had we known, we’d all have been up the mountains each day, pestering the crew, hoping to capture Nicholas Cage on our phones. Probably led by yours truly too, LOL!!!

Apparently, it was the superstar himself who insisted on the filming taking place in Greece. He said this country is still in his heart since filming here Captain Corelli’s Mandolin (and what a gem that was, folks, huh?)

Anyway, I found out he had a black trailer all to himself up there to spend time in comfortably when he wasn’t filming in this rugged, remote landscape.

Sadly, though, the filming ended abruptly. Early September, they all left the area in a hurry! Why, I hear you say? Because while filming in one of the natural caves over there, a swarm of wild bees attacked both actors and crew alike!

They all fled unscathed, or so we heard, off to film what was left to film in the caves on another location down their list (in another country).

As for the sets they left behind, mainly ‘Jesus’s House’ and ‘Calvary’, these had to be destroyed. The council did ask if the producers could leave them behind, thinking perhaps they might repurpose them as a tourist attraction, but the Forest Authority did not permit it. They had to go.

Still, they are going to be immortalised on celluloid, and I, for one, cannot wait to watch the movie, even though I am a little dubious since it is said to have horror elements in it! Not my cup of tea, folks, but it’s Nicholas Cage, right? Worth risking it, me thinks!

The director/writer is Lotfy Nathan and young actor Noah Jupe plays Jesus.

Curious to take a peek at the sets?

Go here to watch a short Tik Tok video of’ ‘Jesus’s House’.

Go here to watch a short Tik Tok video of ‘Calvary’.

Neither of these are my copyright, of course. Full credit is due to journalist @Nikolizas who created and posted these clips. If you enjoy them, do consider following his account.

 

If your tomatoes are ripe, it is time for GEMISTA!

Gemista is a summer dish, but if you can find tomatoes grown in fields as opposed to greenhouses, chances are they will be fleshy and sweet for a good period before and after. That’s why I thought there’s still time to share my family recipe for this delicious Greek meal.

A mixture of raw rice, tomato and herbs are used to fill tomatoes and peppers and they go in the roasting tin with potatoes and lashings of olive oil.

Greek housewives often use courgettes and aubergines as well but I never do. I find they are not juicy enough. Also, I have never added mince meat to the mix, as some housewives do. It just tastes wrong to me that way. Oh, so wrong.

My version is strictly vegetarian and I wouldn’t have it any other way. GO HERE to get the recipe and see what you think!

 

 

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