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FREE books, the joy of traveling, and sunny Calamos

More travel reports to come from alluring parts of Greece!

You know me! I cannot commit to staying at home too long. My heart always yearns for the next escape. I have always been an eager traveler, but in the recent years, I have been deprived of this great passion of mine.

Family health issues, first with my beloved Corfiot grandmother, then both my parents, who got ill with cancer in succession, forced me into assuming the role of carer that didn’t allow me to have almost any travel experiences at all for about 7 years.

Sadly, all the aforementioned members of my family are now gone. It’s tough to be left behind with all the memories, good and bad, and I am sure many of you can relate, but I continue to count my blessings every day as I have a lot to be thankful for – a husband who is loyal, funny, and who supports me on my writing journey, for one. And he is a fellow keen traveler to boot!

It’s been a busy year travelwise, which had the added benefit of allowing me to escape from the harrowing memories of the past few years and my own sense of mourning.

Traveling opens the horizons of the mind. It unravels and refreshes it and lifts the soul. If you are mourning whatever in your life, I highly recommend traveling to you as an escape, if you can do it. Even one-day escapes or extended time spent in nature often, especially in the company of other people, can have the same effect.

Andy and I had our latest travel escape at Christmas. It was a 4-day coach tour to Epirus. We stayed in Arta (well known for its legendary stone bridge – bottom right in the picture above).

Each day, we went to a different place. We were enthralled to visit Tzoumerka for the first time, a mountain area near Arta very reminiscent of Zagori as one will find there stone bridges and enchanting villages with beautiful stonemasonry.

We also dedicated a day to explore Ioannina, a stunning city built on a lake, that has a lot of history, mainly from the Otthoman Empire. Last, we visited Messolonghi and the absolutely breathtaking Nafpaktos. The latter made our heads spin with its quaint beauty. The old fort on the tiny port made our cameras sing. I am going to have a hard time picking which pictures to show you from that place. They are all postcard-perfect!

So, all this is to come in the next couple months.

But, I am not going to leave you without some sunshine today. Nuh-uh!  This is the beginning of a new year, after all. We are halfway between a summer gone and the next summer to come, so I thought some sunny memories would be very apt today, to keep our hearts warm! Keep on reading!

 

A weekend at Calamos in north Attica

Since it’s so grey and cold out there right now, I hope these sunny photographs serve to brighten your day. They certainly did that for me.

Andy and I spent a weekend (2 nights) last September in a family hotel called Calamos Beach Resort.

It is situated in the area of Calamos in north Attica, across from the island of Evia (Euboia), 2.5 kms out of the town of Agioi Apostoloi.

We had all-inclusive bracelets, so all meals and drinks were paid for (we had to exercise all of our restraint LOL). We had everything we needed on the grounds for a fun weekend, but we did venture to the town to have a walk around, too.

Agioi Apostoloi has a lovely marina, very reminiscent of our town of Nea Peramos, what with the fishermen fixing their nets and chatting, and the local cats waiting to be fed. There were many inviting eateries and cafes on the seafront that seemed to be popular. We didn’t need to visit one of them, since the hotel provided everything we needed, but it’s lovely to know they are there in case we ever return to stay in town somewhere.

We came across 2 cinemas (always a plus when I visit towns as we are both film enthusiasts) and on the road that leads out of town, at a short distance away, there is a stunning church that I’d love to explore on the inside, perhaps during my next visit.

Back at the hotel, we had the most relaxing time, just lying under the trees or a beach umbrella for hours every day. The beach was perfect for me as I love pebbles – the sound waves make when they scrape pebbles is my favourite beach sound. I couldn’t get enough of it. As for the waters they were incredibly clear. Swimming there was amazing, reminding me of the perfect sparkling waters of my beloved island of Corfu.

The sea bed was uneven, mind you, with large pebbles, making it a little hard to get in and out of the water. I would recommend to use flippers or other suitable swimming footwear to swim in this place. The store in the hotel sells plastic swimming footwear in case anyone needs them.

They think of everything at this shop. It had great merchandise. We bought a box of playing cards to play by the pool in the evening. Doing that in the cool night air while people-watching proved to be more fun than watching TV all by ourselves in the room!

In the evening, we also took long quiet walks on the seafront along a wide cemented road with sparse traffic. The area seemed to be touristy in previous decades but no more. We saw various establishments that seemed deserted.

We didn’t walk too far after dark, though, as it can get pretty quiet there. And, for a short stretch near the hotel, there are no streetlights.

The view to the opposite shores of Evia (Euboia) in the dark was enchanting. In the areas where there are air turbines on the mountains–like in Aliveri–lights came on in the dark that blinked delightfully like little stars. It was all very pleasing to gaze at in the semidarkness.

If you’re interested in booking this hotel, you can find it here at Booking.com.

If you’re driving to the resort, you may benefit from these instructions:

To get to the resort, you take the Athens-Lamia highway and turn off at Kapandriti (after Afidnes). The route takes you via the centre of Kapandriti and continues to Calamos along a quiet country road. At Calamos there is a sign post to Agioi Apostoloi, where you take a right turn to follow a road at high altitude with panoramic coastal views.

Very important: Once in Agioi Apostoloi, make sure to drive all the way to the marina. Turn right there and immediately right again, at the first turn into a narrow road. The way is straight after that, and you will see the hotel on the left side of the road after a couple minutes’ drive.

We made the mistake of relying on Google maps and turned off the main road BEFORE reaching the marina. As a result, we found the hotel after a maze-like detour via narrow dirt roads in the backstreets of the town. Stupid Google maps! LOL!

I’ll know for next time. And I am saying this because I am definitely going back. Andy loved it there too, and we reminisce about it all the time.

I think the reason Andy and I loved this place so much is because it made us feel so relaxed…  As all our meals were included we didn’t have to venture anywhere outside looking for sustenance or even to think about what to order.

This hotel offered us a chance to unwind, and it was somewhat like us reverting to our childhood in a way… No worries at all, no schedule, no to do lists, nowhere we needed to be, no need for a watch. We just ate when we got hungry, swam, and slept all day!

GO HERE to see all my photographs and fill up with Greek sunshine!

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Urginea, the lucky plant for the New Year and other Greek traditions

Image credit to Festivalaki Cretan festival of Arts & Culture

Hi All! Thrilled to share today the Greek tradition of the lucky plant for the New Year! I’ll also share my recipe for Vasilopita, the cake with the hidden coin inside that Greek families traditionally cut together on New Year’s Eve.

The big day is approaching and, soon, the Greeks will be looking to buy an unedible little plant that looks very much like an onion but is not. You’ll find it in the stores here only once a year, folks. Do you know what they are for? Fret not, for I am about to tell you 🙂

These special plants to the Greeks decorate people’s front doors for good luck every year, and are put in place in time for New Year’s Day.

My parents have always referred to this plant simply as ‘riza’, which is just the Greek word for ‘root’. My father described it as some kind of wild onion, because of the shape of the root. Years later, when I looked up this plant online, I realised my father’s description was bang on!

As my Internet search revealed, the plant has many names: Agriokremmydo (wild onion), Skylokremmydo, Skylla, Askeletoura, Boska, and Agiovasilitsa. The latter refers to Agios Vasilis, the Greek Santa Claus, and that makes sense as the plant is used in the New Year, when Agios Vasilis makes His visit to the children, according to Greek custom.

The Latin name of the plant is Urginea. Apparently, it is the plant of Pan (the pagan god of nature in ancient Greece). It was believed to offer fertility, good luck, and good fortune.

The custom of hanging these roots outside homes in the new year is largely followed on the island of Crete. It seems to be followed in Athens too, though not by many. In general, I don’t see them outside people’s houses that often these days any more.

Anyway, my family never had to buy one, since urginea grows all over the open fields here every winter, and even on our local beaches, as you can see in this picture.

Close to New Year’s Eve, even at the age of 80, my late father would go up the road to the first open field and dig up two of these plants, taking great care to remove the root whole and intact. He’d then hand over one plant to my husband and me, the onion-like root covered in aluminium foil. All I had to do then was to tie a piece of string around its stem and my lucky plant was ready to hang at the gate.

Whatever your customs or personal family traditions are for New Year’s Eve in your part of he world, have lots of fun, and a happy and peaceful 2025! 

Here’s another Greek tradition – Vassilopita – the New Year’s Eve cake with the hidden coin inside. Learn all about it here and get my family recipe!

Can you say ‘Melomakarona’? Or even know what it is?
Check out the traditional Greek Christmas desserts here, and a fun cookie recipe that the kids will love to bake! Enjoy!

 

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Greek Christmas cheer in Athens and sunny photos from Loutraki

Once again, I am pleased to share photos from my Greek travels with you. This time, I am picking some from our visit to Loutraki last fall, during the day of our cruise along the Corinth canal. 

Loutraki made us very envious that day, seeing that the weather forecast had warned of high winds and chilly weather, but instead, we found ourselves in a scorching summer paradise that made us sorry we never packed our swimsuits!

So, we watched others bathe in the clear waters of the Corinthian Gulf, and the views were so alluring we wanted to cry (haha). But the real sorry sight was that of the Katarraktes Cafe, or rather, what was left of it…

We headed there, eager to sit for a coffee in the shade with the pleasing sound of rushing waters in our ears, but sadly, we found it forlorn and derelict. The beautiful wood we recalled from last time was all burnt, and the big pool where the fountains used to be was now empty and decaying.

The many waterfalls that were once cascading over the mountain side were all gone and our hearts wept. I have no idea what happened to this place, and we didn’t know about the fire.

Such a sorry sight. I am only sharing it to save you the needless walk that we had there, as it is situated at a fair distance out of town. We walked there in the scorching heat after our lunch only to return straight back into town to find another place to sit in the shade.

We had lunch at a family taverna called Plaza on the beach. It was an excellent choice as the food was delicious, the staff courteous and the prices more than fair. There is a hotel with the same name at the same building.

The cafe we went to, however, was a poor choice, so I won’t name it. It was hugely expensive, with not enough value to even justify the high prices. They also allowed smoking, so we had our coffees and desserts in a white toxic haze from the smokers and I tried not to cough, LOL

There are plenty of other cafes for us to choose next time in this cosmopolitan, marvellous town, thank goodness.

 

Loutraki is a highly recommended destination for a short or long break, with plenty of hotels and eateries, but more importantly it is a town of natural spas, and they’re well worth a visit.

If you have a car you could take a day to visit the idyllic Lake Vouliagmeni (we swam there during an earlier visit, it was so serene) and, a little further away, the Lighthouse at Cape Melagavi with its marvellous views of the Corinthian Bay.

On a lower ground, and within walking distance from the lighthouse, you can visit a tiny bay for a dip in the sea, right next to the ruins of an ancient temple to Goddess Hera! We went there a few years back and I hope to return to it again some other time.

It certainly is worth the drive, about half hour from the centre of Loutraki, maximum 45 minutes or so, if my memory serves me well. Highly recommended to get to the peak where the lighthouse is, especially near sunset. It is a short and easy ascend on foot from where you will park, but do wear flat, comfortable shoes!

 

SEE THE PHOTOS

 

Fun things to do in Athens during the holiday season (some, all year round, actually😉

Two years ago, my husband Andy and I enjoyed a weekend in Athens marveling at the Christmas lights, especially at Psyrri. Christmas shopping in Ermou Street was fun, followed by lunch at our favorite Irish pub at Monastiraki.

We also had a full day at the SNFCC Foundation, a true gem of Athens, especially for the holiday season. It’s all packed in one post for your perusal. If you’re visiting the city of Athens for Christmas on any given year, it has all the details you need so you can sample too all the thrilling experiences that I did.

Either way, it will make you dream or reminisce. Enjoy!

SEE THE POST

Note: If you are in Athens this Christmas, here’s a tip: Other than the usual decorations at Psyrri and the Christmas tree at Syntagma square, I advise you to also check out the Christmas Village (market) at Pedio Areos on Alexandras Avenue (closest Metro station is Victoria). On New Year’s Eve this year, there won’t be just the one free-admission music concert, which typically takes place at Syntagma Square, but two! The second one will take place at Pedio Areos, featuring the popular band, Melisses. I hear they are doing a different free music concert over there every night on the run up to New Year’s Eve. The concert at Syntagma on New Year’s Eve will feature various artists, like Delivorias and Bofiliou. Will you go for that one or the one with Melisses? Either way, you’ll be guaranteed a jolly good time. Enjoy!

 
 
 

The future of online shopping is here!

Have you visited the Amazon Beyond Virtual Store yet? It is, simply put, the future of online shopping!

Amazon’s virtual store has been decked beautifully for the holidays, and it is filled with interactive content for your holiday shopping.

And, there is access to a virtual toy store too, so you can get marvelous gift ideas for the kids.

Go check it out and have fun exploring! 🎄🥳

Note: available only on Amazon US)

 

VISIT AMAZON BEYOND!

 
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10 reasons why reading is good for you. Plus, exciting bookworm gift ideas!

Oh, we love our reading, don’t we. And in today’s stressful, chaotic world that seems to spin, roll and stretch at an overbearing speed, nothing grounds us and helps us escape better and faster than a bit of reading enjoyed in a quiet place.

Reading is the best way to unplug from ‘the matrix’ and to delve into a different world of choice, a place where we can assume a new identity and escape… pretend… learn… enjoy.

But, the joy of reading isn’t the only benefit we get out of our favorite pastime. No, sir! There’s so much more!

I recently stumbled upon an article that outlined several benefits that bookworms enjoy and don’t even realise. This intrigued me,  enough for me to do a little more online searching. Soon, I was owed!

Did you know?

The deeper we delve into a fiction story, taking on the personality of the protagonist, the more areas of the brain start to light up, activating! These are areas that respond to movement, sensation and pain. What’s more, they remain active for days after we’ve finished the book as we think back on the story!

Reading also allows us to recall information more easily. It keeps neural pathways healthy so we can avoid cognitive decline as we age.

Reading also makes us happy, releasing the feel-good hormone dopamine in the brain. The anticipation itself for our next reading session releases the dopamine too!

No wonder we’re forever returning to bed or the sofa with a book!

TEN GOOD REASONS TO KEEP ON READING!

  1. Improves and strengthens memory

  2. Expands our knowledge.

  3. Reduces stress.

  4. Improves communication skills.

  5. Improves mental health.

  6. Enhances creativity and imagination.

  7. Improves vocabulary

  8. Improves concentration and focus

  9. Entertains us

  10. Releases dopamine in the brain, the happy hormone!

So, there you go, fellow bookworms! It seems we have been doing it right all along, swapping the TV for the books, and that makes us a special kind of people!

So, give yourself a pat on the back, but don’t go just yet!

These gifts ideas for book lovers are exciting and irresistible! See what you think:

Personalized hand-embroidered corner bookmark, 26 letters, 4 seasons to choose from

Visit Amazon US  UK

Library bookshelf coffee mug with “Just One More Chapter” key chain

Visit Amazon US  UK

Funny bookish socks

Visit Amazon US   UK   (the item in the UK store is similar)

“So Many Books So Little Time” book charm bracelet

Visit Amazon US  UK

Book blanket, a valuable reading companion. High-quality fibers for ultimate warmth and comfort

Visit Amazon US  UK   (the item in the UK store is similar)

USB rechargeable LED book light For reading in bed, various colors, brightness dimmable

Visit Amazon US  UK

11-pieces bookworm gift boxset including insulated tumbler, tote bag, makeup bag, socks, keychain, bookmark, flipper

Visit Amazon US  UK  (the item in the UK store is similar)

DIY garden house bookshelf – 3d puzzle book nook Kit for adults

Visit Amazon US  UK

 

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A stunning fresco at Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and the Corinth Canal

Today, I am pleased to share my photographs from the Isthmia Museum and Archeological site. The latter boasts the Roman Baths with the largest monochrome fresco in the eastern Mediterranean! And it is STUNNING, adorned with a variety of sea creatures (octopus, fish, lobster, squid, dolphin, sea snake) and mythological marine creatures too, including what looks like a Nereid and a Triton.

We happened to visit on the day that the ancient games of Isthmia were revived in the area for the first time, and we spotted in the museum two locals preparing the pine tree wreaths for the winners.

We left the place before the games began, so we didn’t see any sporting action.  But after seeing that breathtaking fresco, and with the cruise of the Corinth Canal as our next stop that day, we didn’t feel like hanging around LOL!

The museum was tiny but very interesting, with a plethora of artifacts in great condition that helped to imagine the everyday life of my ancient ancestors.

The archaeological grounds were mere ruins, nothing standing except for the Roman baths. We had to imagine the Temple of Poseidon, the stadium, and the other buildings we got to see only on signs, but the pine trees were ample – holy trees to Poseidon, apparently!

When I heard that from our guide, I wondered if this is why there are so many pine trees on Greek beaches. Or, maybe, it’s the other way around. The Greeks imagined Poseidon liked them seeing that they are often found so close to seawater. I guess we’ll never know, LOL!

The archaeological site is set on a hill that overlooks the bay. It is a short drive away from Isthmia where the Corinth Canal begins.

In my recent newsletter and blog post about my cruise through the Corinth Canal, I mentioned that the ancient Greeks had conceived the idea of the canal so the ships did not have to circumnavigate the Peloponnese to go to the other side of mainland Greece. However, their plans never turned into action as when they asked Zeus for permission to go ahead (via the high priestess and Oracle Pythia of Delphi), his reply was negative.

Still, that didn’t stop the Corinth tyrant Periander in the 7th century BC. He did try to dig for a canal but found the task far more demanding and expensive than he’d thought. So, he constructed a ‘diolkos’ instead, i.e. a passageway from one shore to the other that involved dragging the boats across the land on porous blocks.

Later, the Romans tried too. During the reign of Tiberius, another failed attempt was made in 32 AD but their equipment and know-how proved inadequate for this feat. They, too, settled for another solution, similar to the Greek ‘diolkos. The Romans went for an Egyptian mechanism that had been used previously to roll huge blocks of granite to build their pyramids. The boats rolled across the Isthmus upon tree trunks.

In 67 AD, philhellene Roman Emperor Nero ordered six thousand slaves to dig a canal with shovels. Most of them were Jewish pirates during the Jewish wars. Nero was so keen on the project he was the one to give the first blow to the land of the Isthmus with a golden pickaxe.

Sadly, he passed away the next year and the project was soon abandoned.

Today, a relief adorns the wall of the canal near Isthmia. It is on the side of the mainland, not the Peloponnese, i.e. on the right side as you begin the boat cruise from the Saronic Gulf (Isthmia) side. You will see it high up on the canal wall right next to an old stone base to a bridge over the canal that no longer exists.

It is a mystery as to who created this relief of Nero and when, but it is said to be a remnant from a temple built there in his honor.

It is sad it has been left to its fate as it continues to fight a losing battle with the elements, but here it is, a quickly fading image of the man who had the dream of the canal and went the furthest along than any other.

He was the most determined to do it, and he followed through, in a world that didn’t yet have the mechanical and technological marvels of today.

 

To hear more about the Corinth Canal, for fun facts, and to see photos, see this blog post.

 
 

All this talking about emperors made me think of the purpura mollusk and I have to tell you why!

This mollusk is an exquisite meze for Greeks in the know. It also carries an ancient secret related to royalty!

Porpura  derives its name from ‘porphura’, the dated Greek word for ‘purple’ (pronounced ‘porfeera’). This is the Greek name for this mollusk. In ancient times, they were used to extract the color purple, which was then used to dye the clothes of kings and emperors. The practice is 3,000 years old.

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A Corinth Canal cruise and Corfiot Pastitsada

 

A cruise along the Corinth Canal

Today, I am thrilled to share about my day at Isthmia, cruising along the Corinth Canal! 

First, we had coffee at the Isthmia Bridge Cafe, on the side of the Peloponnese, where we got to see the small bridge submerge in the sea and resurface a few times, allowing people and cars to pass from the Peloponnese to the mainland and back. We even got to see our booked pleasure boat, Anna II, pass by, before boarding it. We got so excited! 

Here is a short video my husband took at the cafe, just as our boat appeared to cruise past us. 

Just as we were about to board, a large number of jet skis floated and revved past en masse to get into the canal. I’d never seen so many together before – It was such a treat! 

The cruise was amazing. The canal is so beautiful. See this short video for a small taste!

 

During the cruise, I recalled a story one of my Corfiot aunts told me the last time I saw her. It was a miraculous incident that took place in the canal. Here’s what happened:

Many decades ago, when my elderly aunt was a young married woman, she found a lump in her breast one day. As soon as they could make it, she and my uncle boarded a boat from Corfu town to visit a hospital in Athens. 

As they were traveling through the Corinth Canal, she and my uncle were lying on their backs on the deck in the sunshine. Auntie had her eyes closed, listening to a man relay an anecdote from the days when the canal was being constructed.

The man was saying that the cook on site caught a snake one day. He prepared half of it fried and half of it boiled. The workers who ate the fried snake all died, but those who ate it boiled were not harmed. Just as the man was finishing the story, my aunt heard a man ask her, ‘Where are you going?’ She opened her eyes and saw a monk towering over her. She told him she was going to Athens to see a doctor.

To her surprise, the monk then lunged forward and grabbed her by the chest, real tight. She began to shout, protesting, as anyone might expect. Suddenly, she opened her eyes and realized the monk had simply vanished. Turning to her husband, she asked about the monk. He hadn’t seen him. And now, it all seemed like a terrible dream. Or was it? It had felt so real!

When they got to the hospital and the doctor examined her, she was astounded to hear the lump was no longer there!

Later, she realized the monk she’d seen on the boat had to have been Saint Spyridon, as he is portrayed as a monk in all the icons, and he has been seen in the same form in many recorded miracles where he appeared before people in visions. Being the patron saint of Corfu, she had always prayed to him and kept him close in her life.

And she’s not the only member of my Corfiot family who have told me stories of St Spyridon’s miracles they witnessed firsthand either! My granny was another. Actually, I have put her own personal story in this post, a story from WWII, no less, along with a load of info on St Spyridon and his famous miracles.

Coming out on the other side of the canal, we were enthralled to see the beautiful views of the spa town of Loutraki and the Corinthian Gulf. After a short cruise around the gulf, while waiting for the go ahead to go back into the canal, we returned to our initial point of departure, on the Saronic Gulf side. 

On our return journey along the canal, we noticed this part where new works were made in the recent years, when part of the canal wall began to crumble, causing it to close a couple times because it wasn’t safe. If I recall, it happened after a couple of earthquakes that affected this area. As the workers seem to have dug so low to the water surface, building this really wide road from the top to carry away the debris, the chance of rocks falling on the canal again at this part is no longer a possibility.

A little further down, we were astounded to see a massive ‘ZAXARIAS’ (i.e. Zachariah) carved on the rock. It was HUGE! We all wondered about it! Soon, we found out it was one of the workers of the canal who had done this, back in the days of its construction. He wanted to carve his own name for posterity, but he wasn’t anywhere near as humble as all the others who had done the same. We saw many names carved in the canal rockface as we went through it, including some sounding very Italian.

But this Zachariah dude certainly overdid it, and as we heard, he got a huge fine for his huge audacity haha! If you do this cruise and want to check it out, it’s on the Peloponnese side, i.e. the right side when you return to Isthmia.

Another thing to look out for as you travel through the canal is this:

On the outward journey, if you sit at the right side, near the beginning of the cruise, you may notice high up on the rockface a figure protected behind a wooden frame. It is a Nero relief that is part of an ancient temple dedicated to him. Where this is situated, you will see two square cemented bases on both banks that used to support an old bridge that is no longer there. The Nero relief is high above the base on the right side.

And now, some trivia for you:

The Corinth Canal is 8 meters deep, 21 meters wide, 80 meters high, and 6.4 kms long. It took about 1.5 hour to cruise through it and back on the boat.

Work on the canal began in 1882 and it opened in 1893. It unites the Corinthian to the Saronic Gulf, and it separates the Peloponnese from mainland Greece – essentially making the former an island!

The ancient Greeks were the first to conceive the idea of a canal there and were keen on constructing it, but Pythia forbid it when they asked the gods for advice on it. 

Zeus told them through Pythia that he wasn’t in agreement – he said plain and simple that if he’d meant for the Peloponnese to be an island he would have made it one himself!

Well, I wonder what he’s thinking right now if he’s still around, LOL!

Guess how much it costs for a big ship to go through the canal? We were told the entrance fee is 5,000 euro! And guess what? The canal company employs its own captains, who are pefectly trained to navigate ships through the canal. Every shipping company has a choice to make! If they want to be covered by insurance as they go through the strait, they have to allow one of the canal’s captains to take the wheel. 

If the shipping company opts out of this, whatever damage occurs will not be compensated. I hope they all say yes! I’d hate for any damage to a ship or this beautiful canal!

In case you’re wondering, the company that does the cruise is Corinth Canal Cruises. They also go to the islands of Aegina and Agkistri!

The boats board at Isthmia. The ticket for a cruise through the canal and back is 28 euro per person. For further details and to confirm the price, please visit the website of Corinth Canal Cruises. 

I loved Isthmia so much I am bound to return next summer. It’s not just the idyllic setting at Isthmia Bridge Cafe, but the beach that is situated a short distance away looked just as amazing as I viewed it from the boat. I may even be tempted to do the cruise again. I highly recommend Isthmia for a visit!

In a later post, I will share about the other places my husband and I visited that day. We made our first stop at the Isthmia museum and archeological site. I fell in love with the marvelous fresco at the Roman Baths that is full of intricate designs of marine creatures, and I can’t wait to show it to you!

We also visited Loutraki for lunch and coffee. It was a 4-hour stay where we walked a lot, sat in the shade, and enjoyed generous sea views. All the while, we really kicked ourselves for not having brought our swimsuits. It was a marvellous sunny day, scorching hot, and people were swimming, even though it was mid-October!

Visit Facebook to check out my pictures from the Corinth Canal cruise and Isthmia Bridge Cafe.

Corfiot pastitsada – my easy, and just as yummy version!

Today, I am pleased to share my recipe for Corfu’s iconic dish of Pastitsada, i.e. beef and pasta in a rich tomato sauce. 

My Corfiot granny, Antigoni, always made this meal with tomato paste from a tin, but passata (tomato puree) is a personal preference of mine. Both options work and the food tastes the same.

Sometimes, Granny also used number 2 pasta (thick, with a hole), but I find it very messy on the table. Let’s just say it’s a surefire way to get sauce on your clothes 😛 Spaghetti is way easier to eat lathered in tomato sauce!

GO HERE TO GET THE RECIPE

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A stunning fresco at the Isthmia Roman Baths, Nero, and a mollusc with a royal secret

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FREE books, Greek stuffed veg, and Nicholas Cage in town!

Good morning, All! Today, I’ve got awesome news! Sunny photos from my summer vacation, my family recipe for Gemista and…. wait for it… a picture of Nicholas Cage in my neck of the woods! Yes, folks, it’s true! The Hollywood actor was staying near my town of Nea Peramos all summer, filming his new movie up in the local mountains! Scroll near the bottom to find out more!

Summer’s almost over. Well, almost.

My husband took this photo of me on the beautiful beach of Lychna on the island of Limnos. This was where we spent our annual break this August.

I posted a bunch of my photographs from that vacation on Facebook earlier this week. Go check them out HERE, and fill your day with sunshine!

This summer refuses to go, folks, and I am glad, because the sea is still warm enough to swim in. It’s almost mid-October, and it’s just incredible. We just had a couple days with wind and thunderstorms, but the temps are heating up again. Whoahey.

This year, I spotted a massive sea turtle as I swam at my local beach. To ensure my eyes hadn’t fooled me I asked other people about it. Many said they’d seen it too on other occasions, and one old man claimed it has been here for many years. There is just one, he said, confirming it is indeed massive in size.

I saw it from a good distance one day, its big head emerging through the water, then it began to look around, reminding me of the periscope of a submarine haha. Its head seemed huge, even from this long distance. I was glad it was far away, I tell you.

I was shocked. But not as shocked as I was another morning when I looked down under me in the deep and I saw it looking up back at me. YIKES. It was sooo big. I am not ashamed to say I panicked and swam away as fast as my flippers could carry me LOL.

An old lady told me that the sea turtle broke the surface of the water as she swam with her son one day. She saw it from up close, and it was staring back at her with ‘big round eyes’. Said it had ‘greenish scales’ and it took all she had not to freak out as she asked her son calmly to move toward her slowly, since he had his back to it and hadn’t seen it. But, as soon as she spoke, the sea turtle panicked too, apparently, because it then retreated and swam away. I guess it’s not as dangerous as I thought, LOL!

 
 

My name day, Effrosyni Day, was on September 25, and my husband Andy and I celebrated it with a lovely meal on the seafront of our town. We ordered a seafood platter, as you can see here, which was delicious, as well as baked vegetables drizzled with balsamic. It was all amazing.

But nowhere near as amazing as what I discovered that same week! See if you can recognise this guy on the right… Believe it or not, he was photographed in my neck of the woods this summer!

WHAAAAAT?

As you can see here, folks, this is no ordinary tourist, but Hollywood superstar, Nicholas Cage!

I found this photo on the website of my nearby seaside town of Agioi Theodoroi! Apparently, Nicholas Cage has been renting a villa there all summer, and often visited the eateries in town with his wife during his long stay. A local beach bar, as you can see here, was where he was captured on camera. (note: credit for the photo goes wherever it is due).

But that is not all, folks!

A little digging online yielded for me another shock! It turns out that Nicholas Cage has been driving to my town in the wee hours of the morning daily, going to a remote area on the mountains, to shoot a movie!

 

Kryftes, an ancient hideout on my local mountain range, becomes a Hollywood film set!

This image is from the Greek channel ‘Skai’ which ran a story on Nicholas Cage’s upcoming movie. It is set on the majestic Geraneia Mountains that crown both my town and Megara and reach over all the way to Loutraki.

The area of ‘Kryftes’ on these mountains, a word that means ‘hidden’, used to be the perfect hideout for the people of Megara for centuries. Whenever they expected a raid, they would go there as it was invisible from all the routes, all around.

This is the place that the location scouts chose for the movie, ‘The Carpenter’s Son’, which is based on the apocryphal gospel of Thomas. It tells the story of Jesus as a child. Nicholas Cage plays Jesus’s father, Joseph.

Last spring, the location scouts contacted the council of Megara and asked for assistance to provide better access by road so that they could commence building the sets, and then start filming at Kryftes. The council was happy to oblige and agreed to keep the whole operation strictly confidential.

Indeed, everyone kept mom about it, and no one discovered this among the common people like me until after the cast and crew were all gone! I was soooo miffed when I found out, but of course it is all understandable. I mean, had we known, we’d all have been up the mountains each day, pestering the crew, hoping to capture Nicholas Cage on our phones. Probably led by yours truly too, LOL!!!

Apparently, it was the superstar himself who insisted on the filming taking place in Greece. He said this country is still in his heart since filming here Captain Corelli’s Mandolin (and what a gem that was, folks, huh?)

Anyway, I found out he had a black trailer all to himself up there to spend time in comfortably when he wasn’t filming in this rugged, remote landscape.

Sadly, though, the filming ended abruptly. Early September, they all left the area in a hurry! Why, I hear you say? Because while filming in one of the natural caves over there, a swarm of wild bees attacked both actors and crew alike!

They all fled unscathed, or so we heard, off to film what was left to film in the caves on another location down their list (in another country).

As for the sets they left behind, mainly ‘Jesus’s House’ and ‘Calvary’, these had to be destroyed. The council did ask if the producers could leave them behind, thinking perhaps they might repurpose them as a tourist attraction, but the Forest Authority did not permit it. They had to go.

Still, they are going to be immortalised on celluloid, and I, for one, cannot wait to watch the movie, even though I am a little dubious since it is said to have horror elements in it! Not my cup of tea, folks, but it’s Nicholas Cage, right? Worth risking it, me thinks!

The director/writer is Lotfy Nathan and young actor Noah Jupe plays Jesus.

Curious to take a peek at the sets?

Go here to watch a short Tik Tok video of’ ‘Jesus’s House’.

Go here to watch a short Tik Tok video of ‘Calvary’.

Neither of these are my copyright, of course. Full credit is due to journalist @Nikolizas who created and posted these clips. If you enjoy them, do consider following his account.

 

If your tomatoes are ripe, it is time for GEMISTA!

Gemista is a summer dish, but if you can find tomatoes grown in fields as opposed to greenhouses, chances are they will be fleshy and sweet for a good period before and after. That’s why I thought there’s still time to share my family recipe for this delicious Greek meal.

A mixture of raw rice, tomato and herbs are used to fill tomatoes and peppers and they go in the roasting tin with potatoes and lashings of olive oil.

Greek housewives often use courgettes and aubergines as well but I never do. I find they are not juicy enough. Also, I have never added mince meat to the mix, as some housewives do. It just tastes wrong to me that way. Oh, so wrong.

My version is strictly vegetarian and I wouldn’t have it any other way. GO HERE to get the recipe and see what you think!

 

 

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A brave girl and a church with a secret in Kotsinas, Limnos

Maroula, the heroine of Kotsinas

We visited Kotsinas on a windy morning last month, during our stay on the island of Limnos. As soon as we reached the top of the small artificial hill we felt as if we were suddenly on the sea and no longer on land, thanks to the beautiful decoration of the place and the vast sea stretching out before us.

The rounded fence at the far end made the place resemble the bow of a ship. We felt almost like we were sailing on the tumultous sea below. And, if that were indeed a ship, then, undoubtedly, its name would be ‘Maroula’, a name greatly revered in Kotsinas, and on the entire island, as a matter of fact.

Maroula was an eighteen-year-old girl back in 1478, when the fort of Kotsinas was beseiged by Suleiman Pasha. Her father was a soldier defending the fort. When the Turks murdered him before her very own eyes, Maroula felt enraged. She picked up her father’s sword swiftly and began to charge against the Turks.

The other villagers, inspired by her amazing act of bravery, despite her being just a girl and so young, followed suit and attacked the Turks with great force, causing them to flee. At the time, the fort was occupied by Venetian forces, who defended the fort that day together with the locals.

Some sources claim that perhaps Maroula was the daughter or the wife of the slain fighter Georgios Makris. In any case, the bravery of Maroula has been praised by Italian writers, such as Sabelico, Coelius, Calcagnini, Fulgosius, and Vianoli as well as by Greek writers Kostis Palamas, Aristomenis Provelengios, Maria Lampadaridou-Pothou, and Anthony Soupios.

Today, the bronze statue of Maroula stands where the fort once used to be. It reminds the visitor that acts of tremendous bravery that involve love for family and country can never fade in the course of time, but continue to inspire the next generations for centuries to come.

As you can see, a beautiful little church, ‘Zoodohos Pigi’, stands on the same hilltop. The name in Greek, ‘Life-giving Spring’ is a dead giveaway for what hides deep underneath it…

Under the church begins a descent in search of holy water…

Before visiting Kotsinas, I had viewed travel videos from the place and I knew about the descent of about 60 steps that reaches deep down under the church, where the bowels of the fort once used to be.

The thought of experiencing this descent enthralled me. Sure, it also elicited an eerie feeling in me, but I was determined to suppress it and to actually do this!

Well, it was easier than I thought. The kindly lady I asked for directions at the church showed us the stairs and swiftly turned on the lights for us. It was an instant improvement of the view haha.

There was a rope to hold on to as the stone steps could prove slippery, or so we were told. But we had no such issues. From the top looking down, the passage seemed daunting and long, but our apprehension soon evaporated. It took way shorter a time than we’d thought to get to the tiny cavernous space at the bottom.

There is a small bucket you can use down there to get water from the well. People have left icons down there and they inspire the visitor towards prayer and concentrated thought.

I confess, I didn’t drink from the well, but I took some of the water in my hand to sprinkle on all the achy and ailing bits on my person that seem to get more and more in number as I age, LOL. So, after a short prayer to the Virgin Mary we took the steps back up to the top. The ascent was equally quick and didn’t require any great effort.

All in all, this was a wonderful experience in an unusual place that will stay with me forever. I highly recommend it!

GO HERE to see the photographs from our visit to Kotsinas.

For a video of the hilltop, go here

For a video of the well underground, go here

The famous ‘Lily of the Virgin Mary’ is strewn all over Kotsinas Beach

This beautiful lily can be found on the beaches in many parts of Greece, especially the southern coast of Crete. Personally, I have only ever seen it on the beach in Kotsinas, on Limnos island. When I visited it again this summer, it was mid August. The plants were in full bloom, making the beach scenery stunning against the backdrop of the foaming sea on that refreshing, windy day.

The Greeks often call this lily, ‘To krinaki tis Panagias’ (Lily of the Virgin Mary). The odd name is owed to the fact that this plant only blooms in the summer, including August, when The Virgin Mary is annually celebrated in Greece (on the 15th) .

The plant is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family and is a perennial bulbous plant. The Latin name is Pancratium maritimum, and it is known out of Greece with various names such as the sea daffodil, the sand lily or the lys de mer.

Its scent is heady and exotic, reaching the peak of its strength at the end of August. The fruit look like small pieces of charcoal that are so light they are taken by the wind and often seen floating on the seawater.

This lily is depicted on the ancient murals of the Palace of Knossos in Crete and also illustrated on the frescos and pottery of ancient Thira (Santorini). The Minoans in Crete regarded it as holy.

It isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, though. It also benefits the environment where it grows, helping to stabilize sand dunes, preventing erosion, and supporting the often fragile ecosystems where it blooms.

This precious flower has become quite rare these days because of increased tourism. The Council of Europe has declared it a rare and endangered species.

Please be cautious when walking on sand dunes to avoid stepping on them. Kindly think twice before picking them, and rather consider immortalising them in a photograph or two instead, just like I did, to remember them by!

 

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Golden fields, a generous hen, and bed bugs. The fun and not so fun of my Greek island vacation

A walk around the open fields of Lychna

Fanaraki beach near Moudros

The beach at Lychna

A vacation of fun… and not so much fun

Here is a tiny taste of my recent photos from the island of Limnos (also spelled Lemnos, in English). For those who missed the last blog post, my husband and I stayed in my family house on this island, where my father hailed from.

Since my father’s passing last year I found out that the house had been infested with mice. The house was disinfected and cleaned before we got there.

And it was clean enough to stay in, I do admit, but we did have problems. Two years it had been left closed and we found doors that were jammed, things that needed scrubbing and oiling, and lights that blinked like those in a disco. Plus, the bed had bugs that gave us spots that itched. No kidding.

But those were the small things. The big things were that the kitchen sink had unstuck itself from the wall and slanted to the side. I had to wash dishes gingerly for 10 days and hope it didn’t crumble on me. We had a carpenter come in and now that we’re gone he is going in to install a brand new replacement.

Another big problem we encountered was that we found out, much too late, that the mice had eaten the insulation inside the oven. One night, I made the mistake, none the wiser, to cook something in the oven and the house soon filled with toxic white smoke. We coughed and ran outside and kept going back in to check for a long time as we switched off the oven and the switches on the board. But, the oven didn’t stop fuming or begin to cool until we cut the power from the wall behind it with a garden shears.

It all made for an ‘interesting’ vacation, I tell you. We had to shop for several things we missed in the house since the mice had been. An appliance with two electric rings to cook with after the disaster, for starters. And, we had to go to the capital of Myrina twice for some serious paperchasing for family affairs.

TAKE A LOOK AROUND AND LISTEN TO THE WAVES!

Still, as you can see in this photo of me in the capital on this beautiful beach under Myrina Castle, we interspersed the shopping and the paperchasing with blissful breaks that involved sun and sea (and a couple of fabulous taverna meals, of course).

My father’s house is at the edge of the village of Lychna. It has an enchanting rustic feel, like the rest of the village, and a good piece of land around it. The lack of neighbours guarantees us a lot of peace and quiet all day and beautiful golden-field views as far as the eye can see.

A cockerel and a scatter of hens visited us daily, roaming around our land. Some of the hens clucked as they went, their chickens chirping busily behind them.

One of the hens looked rather uneasy in our presence, seeing that we soon found out she had made a nest on a pile of old magazines at the BBQ area.

We left her alone and ventured over there very sparely to give her space. And she thanked us by leaving us one egg a day. One day, we found three eggs, we couldn’t believe it!

I had so missed the color and the taste of omelette made of fresh country eggs. Somehow, knowing the hen that laid them made them even more precious 🙂

Truly, this small blessing made it up to us for the bed bugs and the putrid smoke we inhaled haha

I am now back home settling in, and haven’t had the chance to sort out my pictures yet, but in the blog posts to come I will be introducing you to different parts of the village and of the island in detail with a wealth of sunny photos and a little bit of history, too.

We didn’t get the chance to visit many of the places we intended to, like the roofless mountain church of Kakaviotissa, the dessert area of Ammothines, and the natural salt mine at Alykes because of all the hiccups. But there’s always next time!

If you’re interested in Limnos sightseeing, make sure to check out this blog occasionally as in the next couple of months I will share details of the places I went to. Or, sign up to my newsletter to receive my travel reports straight into your inbox as they are issued!

Check out my previous post where I share more pictures from Lychna. You’ll also get to see the stunning Neolithic settlement on Lake Kastoria!

 

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The Neolithic settlement on Kastoria lake and the rugged beauty of the island of Limnos

Good morning, everyone! Thrilled to share today about the oldest lake settlement in Europe. 7,600 years old! It is in Dispilio, on the lake of Kastoria.

I am off soon to the island of Limnos on vacation and reminiscing about my last visit there, back in 2020. I went to visit my father at our family home in the village of Lychna. Scroll down to see some of my photos. I hope they will bring sunshine to your day!

SEE ALL THE PHOTOS

A community of farmers and stockbreeders, 7,600 years ago…

I visited the area of Dispilio during my stay in Kastoria where I spent Easter this year.

Dispilio hosts an amazing Neolithic settlement on the lake of Kastoria.

It was fascinating, set in such a lush setting.

The huts are made of mud from the lake and straw – just like the farmers used to make them in the neolithic era. Inside, dummies and replicas bring their world to life.

As the visitor wanders from hut to hut using the wooden walkways, in places, they’re actually walking over water, as you can see in the picture below.

Here is a short video of the settlement.    The birdsong is busy and so sweet!

The phenomenon of settlements in prehestoric times on or beside lakes was first discovered in the 19th century where archaeologists found remains of such settlements on alpine lake regions in Switzerland and Germany.

References of such settlements in the north mainland of Greece are made largely in the work of ancient historian, Herodotus.

In 1932, during a dry winter, the water in the lake receded enough in Dispilio to reveal old wooden stakes – thus, for the first time indicating the presence of an ancient settlement on the lake.

In 1935, archaeologist Antonios Keramopoulos began preliminary excavation works, which, however, stopped quickly, as World War II was looming.

Finally, the settlement in Dispilio was officially found in 1992, during the excavation led by archaeologist Chourmouziadis.

Since then, other lake settlements have been investigated in the lakes of Florina, Lake Ochrid and in lake areas of North Macedonia and Albania.

Still, the lake settlement of Dispilio is the oldest one in Europe. 7,600 years old!

The population of the settlement in Dispilio were farmers and stockbreeders. They seem to have settled there in the Late Neolithic period (5612 BC – 5594 BC) and continued to reside in this area for another 2,500 years, until the end of the Neolithic period, in successive phases of habitation.

Everything the visitor encounters in the huts today are either replicas of actual finds or basic everyday items that help to bring this ancient world to life. The original artefacts are housed in the museum in Dispilio.

The excavation yielded many important finds that speak volumes for the lifestyle of this prehistoric population. These include:

  • Tools made of stone, bone and flint that indicated they were farmers, hunters and fishermen

  • Large clay storage jars and woven baskets

  • Cooking utensils, many of which boat-shaped

  • Jewellery made of bone and stone

  • A bone flute (one of the oldest musical instruments to be found in all of Europe)

  • Ceramics, wooden structural elements, seeds, bones, figurines and personal ornaments. The most famous figurine is The Lake Lady. It is made of clay and has the form of a pregnant woman.

The most incredible find of all is The Dispilio Tablet, an engraved wooden plaque found at the bottom of the lake dating back to 5260 BC and believed to be an early form of the written word that precedes Linear A (this hasn’t yet been decoded either).

Some of the symbols on the Dispilio Tablet are identical to ones found engraved on clay in other settlements in the Balkans.

On vacation mode (AKA Limnos, here I come!)

I am doing something new this year. I am not going to Corfu.

The photos I put together to show you today are all from my last visit there in 2020. My house is in the village of Lychna.

The village is tiny and only has one eaterie, but it happens to be one of the coolest and most sought after on the island. It has the strange name Ennoia Po’chs, which is incomprehensible even to the average Greek as it’s a saying from the local vernacular.

The proper Greek words would be ‘Ennoia pou eheis’ (loosely translated as ‘What do you care?’)

Even the people of Lychna need to prebook in this place as people come from all over the island every night. In one of the photos above, you can see its seating area and facade in our village’s tiny square. In another photo, you can see me sitting on the ledge of my grandfather George’s house (my dad’s dad). This house is across from the eaterie on the same square. It was passed on to aunties, and in time, to cousins of mine.

In another photo you can see my father showing me a series of fig trees he planted along the country road outside his property. He planted trees of various kinds in many parts of the village. I look forward to coming across them during my walks this August. I miss him beyond words every day, and the sight of these trees will provide much comfort in many years to come as they grow all the more bigger and taller.

The houses at Lychna are beautiful, built in the northern Aegean style – tall, with beautiful colours, patterns, and woodwork on their facades. But, somehow, the most enchanting to me is this tiny village house that I found hidden, like a gem, as I wandered around the village lanes. I included a photo of it above so you can take a peek. Such a humble beauty.

Lychna is a quiet place, all dressed in golden yellow in the summer. The dried wheat fields are dazzling under the strong sunlight, stretching far, all the way to the cobalt blue sea. I love these views. And the serenity is amazing. All you can hear all day is the rush of the wind at times, the clinking of the cow bells, and the clucking and crowing of hens and cockerels.

To be honest. I don’t particularly like the cockerels in the village as they wake me up from 6 a.m! But their crowing is lovely to hear at any other part of the day. So rustic haha

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